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About ready for my 100,000 mile tune-up....yes I drive alot...
Any suggestions?
Doing it at the dealer...will also do Fuel Injector service. Anything else recommended?
 

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Fuel injector service is a snake oil cash cow for a dealer. Dump a can of Seafoam in the tank at your next fill up. When mine tripped 100k I had the cooling system flushed, changed the rear diff fluid, and changed the transmission filter and fluid. Also change the spark plugs if yours has the 100k plugs. Mines about to hit 153k.
 

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Yeah...planned on changing plugs...have had 2 Water Pumps go out in last few years..Wonder if I still need a coolant system flush?...Will do the tranny stuff and rear diff..thx for advice
 

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With two water pump changes you likely have all the old coolant out...
 

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About ready for my 100,000 mile tune-up....yes I drive alot...
Any suggestions?
Doing it at the dealer...will also do Fuel Injector service. Anything else recommended?
Driven nearly 1M miles. Never had a fuel injector "service". Never had a fuel injector act up. One car covered 317K miles on its stock/factory injectors.

Never used Seafoam but I've had good experience with Techron either added to the tank from a bottle or via filling up the fuel tank with Chevron Supreme.

Given the miles you drive, the usage this suggests, you may not need to use Techron or anything else.

I found that an approx. 50 mile drive at highway speeds had the engine running a bit better. I attribute this to the prolonged engine running which lets the gasoline and the detergents in it do their job.

For whatever else is recommended I'd refer you to the owners manual. Be sure the plugs, filters, trans/diff lube services are up to date and if not bring them up to date.

If you haven't had it done have the brake system flushed and bled. If a manual transmission car and if the clutch hydraulic system shares fluid with the brake hydraulic system I'd flush and bleed the clutch hydraulic system too assuming a bled screw was provided for on say the slave cylinder (as was the case with some cars I owned in the past).

Unless you have had it done in the last 4 years or so I'm recommend draining the cooling system and refiling with fresh coolant. Doing this every 4 years or so helps prolong water pump seal/bearing life and can reduce the risk of a pinhole forming in a radiator or heater coil.
 

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Yeah...planned on changing plugs...have had 2 Water Pumps go out in last few years..Wonder if I still need a coolant system flush?...Will do the tranny stuff and rear diff..thx for advice
Since your car is a 2014....it has the 10 year / 150,000 mile OAT coolant.
 

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I have a 2012 challenger rt .looking to find out what plugs it runs on..ive been told about and seen so many that its crazy. Not sure whats in it now but want the right stock plugs in it..the only mod done was muffler delete.just wanna make sure i dont screw something up!! My best judgement so far is lzfr5c - 11 was told its a copper plug and thats what mine takes??? Thanks for any help guys
 

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Thanks A Guy...think il stick to the cirzt one mentioned. Due to how many complaints i have heard about NGK.
Thanks CHRIS
Complaints about NGK?? They make top of the line spark plugs. I use stock NGK's and change them every 40k (book says 30k) and have had no issues. They actually look like they could be run a lot longer. Nearing 154k now.
 

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Lol, the OEM plugs are made by NGK, same plug both sources I posted ;)

A Guy
 

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Thanks A Guy...im still trippin over the fact of 16 plugs....but cant complain about my mpg with the 345 for sure..combined i get around 16 or so and on the highway with my cruise on 80 i get between 20 to 22 mpg
 

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If you have the NAG1 A5 trans (as opposed to the ZF A8), a transmission fluid and filter change would be a good idea.

A drain and fill of the rear-end fluid would be in order as well.

A drain and fill of the power steering fluid is something to consider also.

A complete brake system fluid replacement is mandatory IMHO. That means replacing all the fluid in the master cylinder and bleeding the fluid from each brake caliper as well to get fresh fluid to each one.

Spark plugs, but that’s already been discussed.

Air filter and cabin filter should be checked and replaced if necessary.

Replace the serpentine belt and 3 associated pulleys (2 idler pulleys I believe and 1 pulley on the tensioner).

Water pump, but that has already been discussed as well.

Engine coolant, though it sounds like there is some question as to the age of yours. When in doubt, I’d just do it to be on the safe side.

That’s the main items I can think of that are up for replacement 100K miles. The rest of these are items I personally replaced at 100K (or shortly thereafter) but aren’t necessarily listed as having 100K mile service lives. As such, there will be disagreement on whether they should be replaced now or wait until they actually go out. I’m obviously in the ‘replace now instead of waiting on it to fail’ camp.

  • Thermostat & both radiator hoses (or all 4 if you have the engine oil cooler).
  • Engine coolant temperature sensor
  • PCV valve
  • MAP sensor
  • Intake air temperature sensor
  • Crankshaft position sensor
  • Camshaft position sensor
  • Both upstream oxygen sensors (100K is really too early for yours; I waited until closer to 150K and that was just right for mine, but I had a special circumstance in that the car was a former city police squad for first 100K miles)
  • Shocks and struts (if still running OE units)
Removal and cleaning of the throttle body is also a good idea, if for no other reason than to gauge the condition of the inside of the intake plenum. If TB bore is filthy and coated with black residue, you can bet the intake is too. Removal and cleaning of the intake might also be considered a good idea in that case.

That’s all I can think of at the moment...go ahead and get started and I’ll update the list if anything occurs to me later. 😛

Nuke

Oh yeah, don't forget to tighten down the intake bolts!
 

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Thanks A Guy...im still trippin over the fact of 16 plugs....but cant complain about my mpg with the 345 for sure..combined i get around 16 or so and on the highway with my cruise on 80 i get between 20 to 22 mpg
Not to sidetrack the thread, but those MPG numbers seem a little low. I have the MDS turned off on mine, and I’m pulling 18-19 mpg in city and 22-23 on highway (with cruise).

If you have MDS enabled, I’d say a good tune-up like you’re getting ready to do is certainly in order, and it should up your MPGs a little once all is said and done.
 

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Yes plugs are in and all coils were tested and are doing the right job as they should. Cant remember how i found my mpg on my evic now lol.. Not sure what else is needed for a tune up other than making sure plugs and coils are doing there proper job. Any idea how to find any maint records with my vin # or no??
Thanks. Chris.
 

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Wow i did not receive a owners manual with the purchase of my 2012 challenger rt from glennbrook dodge in Fort Wayne In..sonce my purchase in march i have ran the 87 in it and just found out by looking at my pdf file of owners manual that 87 will work but 89 is recommended..so on my 2nd tank of 89 octane and seems to be a lil more smooth over all...however now my car seems to want to go by itself when its put in drive and yet my rpms at idle are between 600 and 700 it used to not do that at all...so wondering what to do about it?
 

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Yes plugs are in and all coils were tested and are doing the right job as they should. Cant remember how i found my mpg on my evic now lol.. Not sure what else is needed for a tune up other than making sure plugs and coils are doing there proper job. Any idea how to find any maint records with my vin # or no??
Thanks. Chris.
Now that i think about it, my rear-end may be passing my MPGs versus yours. I've got the 2.65 rear axle ratio gears, and I'm guessing yours are probably 3.06 or so at least. Not a huge difference, but enough to burn a little extra gas while rolling around for sure.

Anyway, you can see all the reported events in the car's service history with Carfax's "myCarfax" app. Download and install it, add your car to its garage by VIN, and then click the Service History tab. Any break/fix or maintenance event that has been reported to Carfax will show up there.

I like that app for two reasons really - it's free (as in beer), and it allows you to self-report events yourself (shop will be DIY instead of an actual place of business).

Not that I'm that concerned with keeping the car's maintenance history accurate or anything, but it does help me keep track of everything i do to the car, when i did it, and what mileage it was done at. THAT is invaluable to me many times over for all the obvious reasons.

It also automatically lists any outstanding recalls on the car, which can literally be a life saver if something like the airbag recall is still outstanding...
 

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Wow i did not receive a owners manual with the purchase of my 2012 challenger rt from glennbrook dodge in Fort Wayne In..sonce my purchase in march i have ran the 87 in it and just found out by looking at my pdf file of owners manual that 87 will work but 89 is recommended..so on my 2nd tank of 89 octane and seems to be a lil more smooth over all...however now my car seems to want to go by itself when its put in drive and yet my rpms at idle are between 600 and 700 it used to not do that at all...so wondering what to do about it?
The default spark timing of the engine is set for 89 octane gasoline, but through the magic of knock sensors, it can tell when less than 89 octane is being burned (or poor quality 89) and it will automatically retard the spark timing to accommodate. So no harm will come from running less than 89 octane, but since more (advanced) spark timing basically equals more performance, running 89 octane (or higher) will yield the best possible performance from the engine given its stock configuration (aka stock tune).

So if you can afford it, run 89 or higher octane when possible, and you will be getting the maximum amount of performance possible from your engine.

(93 octane is probably overkill in all scenarios except extreme heat like a typical summer in the southern US, but 91 octane wouldn't be. In fact, if you live in a place like Texas, Florida, etc., I'd run 91 octane instead of 89 during the summer if possible. The 89 will not act like 89 in extreme heat sometimes, so its best to have a little cushion - like 91 octane. But only in extreme heat. Once winter sets in, back to 89!)
 
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