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Dr. Carl sure is an inspiration, or maybe he just plain made my Scat Pack jealous because it ran like never before Saturday at Atlanta Dragway. Weather was great, approx. 300 DA, temp in the low 50's and a 10 mph headwind. The track was well prepped for a Wally race.

I had been running 18 - 19 PSI in the 305/45-18 MT Street R's but bumped them up 20 20.5 for this run based on the discussion in Carl's PB thread and saw a significant increase in MPH. No wheel spin at launch but log showed very small amount of spin at 2 and 3 shift. This was the first time using 90 octane pure gas bumped to 99 octane with TORCO. Saw 1 spike of 1.5* KR right after 4 to 5 shift, about normal for this car.

On previous logs I frequently saw a flat spot in RPM at about 3100 RPM in 1st gear. Sean gave me another race tune that increased idle rpm to 850 and shut off traction control (I was unaware TC could be turned of with the tuner and had been turning it off manually). I launched from idle on this run where previously I had been attempting to launch at 1800 (which resulted in actual launch anywhere from 1500 to 2200).

Just don't look at RT. We had a sleeping contest, fortunately the guy in the Mustang in the right lane won that. Unfortunately I only got 1 run Saturday. Rumor around Atlanta Dragway was Nuke posted new info on the Meat Thermometer Mod and I wanted to get home to see what that was all about or maybe it was to go to neighbors wedding. That was a couple of days ago, cant remember.
 

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Dang Booooyyyy!! CONGRATS!!! YA'LL bad! Excellent post!
 

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Great run, man the car is getting after it! Did you mess any more with coolant or air intake readings - or observe them for this pass? Any differences?
 

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Great run, man the car is getting after it! Did you mess any more with coolant or air intake readings - or observe them for this pass? Any differences?
Ambient was 53.6. IAT was 106 at launch, dropped to 97 at 1st shift, 82 at 2nd shift, 70 at 3rd shift, and 66at 4th shift. My car has the shaker and the Mopar cold air inlet (rubber tube from headlight to air box). Between the 2 it appears to cool IAT rapidly with the car in motion. ECT was 182 at launch rose to 195 at finish line then quickly returned to 185. Launch ECT was about 3* lower than normal but after launch the ECT curve looks similar to most runs.

The air was best I have seen this year, the only negative was approximately 10 MPH headwind. Even though ECT was only 3* cooler than normal at launch there wa probably a larger differential of engine temperature when compared to most runs but I have no way of knowing and its not something I can control anyway.
 

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Now THAT"S attention to detail!! DANG!
 

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Now THAT"S attention to detail!! DANG!
Well, its all there in the data log if I remember to push the data log button. Now if I only knew what to do with all that info.
 

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Guy in the Mustang will be pleased getting all the way up to 24 mph in 1/4 mile!
24.13 to be precise:smile:. The Mustangs 1000 foot was quicker than mine but he was in my blind spot the entire run. Can't understand how either of those numbers happened. Just a tricky Mustang.
 

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Looks like I missed this post. Congrats man! 11.50's is moving! Bet you were happy with that pass!

I actually run my car with 22psi in the rear now. It hooks up well and is more stable at the end of the track. My other buddy runs 24psi and still hooks. This is with the ET Street R 305 tire on 17" wheels.

Glad your car is running good. I had Jay adjust a few things on my tune, the 1-2 shift was so violent and fast that it would always spin the tires. The new revised trans tune is much better, still an aggressive shift but not as violent and no tire spin. The rest of the shifts are just as hard as before. Seemed to work well on my car.

You want to see 0 ST KR, but spikes at shift points are somewhat normal, as long as it falls off. If you see 1.0-2.0 staying there and lingering as you go down the track, you need to either up the octane a couple points or pull a degree of timing.

Glad your car is running well and some of that advice actually helped you out. You'll be on your way to the 11.30's and 11.40's soon!
 

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Hey Carl, Glad to see you posting again.

The date I made that pass was listed as a Test & Tune date. Because of many rainouts they changed it to a Summit Points race which resulted in me getting only one rune at 1:30 in the afternoon. Needed to be back home for a 4:00 wedding. Just barely made it which was important if for no other reason than the trailer I used to haul the car belongs to the bride's father. So very happy I had that run to think about for the rest of the day.

I have 18" ET Street R 305 tires and ran them at 20.5 that day and they hooked well as the way down the track. I normally run 93 octane (10 - 15% ethanol) boosted to 98 with TORCO which usually results in a few KR spikes of .5 to 1.5 around shift points in higher gears. On that day I ran 90 octane pure gas boosted to 99 octane with TORCO. I tried that combo again on another day and it produced way too many spikes of KR all through the run. Interestingly it did not appear to have much effect on actual timing. In any case I won't be using pure gas unless I can find a top tier supplier.

I installed the SW catless mids and have made a few passes with them. Will continue that discussion on your 11.51 at 117.89mph thread.
 

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Hey Carl, Glad to see you posting again.

The date I made that pass was listed as a Test & Tune date. Because of many rainouts they changed it to a Summit Points race which resulted in me getting only one rune at 1:30 in the afternoon. Needed to be back home for a 4:00 wedding. Just barely made it which was important if for no other reason than the trailer I used to haul the car belongs to the bride's father. So very happy I had that run to think about for the rest of the day.

I have 18" ET Street R 305 tires and ran them at 20.5 that day and they hooked well as the way down the track. I normally run 93 octane (10 - 15% ethanol) boosted to 98 with TORCO which usually results in a few KR spikes of .5 to 1.5 around shift points in higher gears. On that day I ran 90 octane pure gas boosted to 99 octane with TORCO. I tried that combo again on another day and it produced way too many spikes of KR all through the run. Interestingly it did not appear to have much effect on actual timing. In any case I won't be using pure gas unless I can find a top tier supplier.

I installed the SW catless mids and have made a few passes with them. Will continue that discussion on your 11.51 at 117.89mph thread.
That's cool man. I know when I first got into the 11.50's I was so happy I nearly lost it in the car haha! It's a great high when you run a new PB or you see some improvement from a mod you made, etc.

Sean runs a bit more timing than Jay does. I noticed more KR with Sean's tunes than I get with Jay's. You may need to run a bit more octane, or just better quality fuel. You may be starting with only 91 from the pump even though it says 93. You never know with pump gas. If you have access to race fuel and it's within your budget, try some out. Mix your pump gas with some VP MS109 or Sunoco GT260 Plus. Shoot for 100-102 octane and bump your timing up 1-2 degrees over the 93 tune. It may pick up. The drawback is if you don't have a wideband, you can't tell what your AFR is. I had to add 8% fuel across the board when I mixed in 5 gallons of MS109 since it has so much oxygen in it. My AFR on 93 pump was around 12.2-12.5:1. Added in the MS109, and it jumped up to 13.1-13.4:1. Added 8% fuel across the board and dropped it back down to 12.2-12.5 again.

I've found BP 93 is the best pump gas, at least in my area. I did a test a while back and Shell 93 knocked like crazy. Put in some BP 93 no knock or a blip of .5 or so. Ran that out, put Shell 93 back in, knock city, getting 2-3 ST KR. Back to BP again, 0-0.5. I believe I tried Marathon as well and got 1-2 ST KR. It could have just been a bad batch of fuel that day too. But BP was consistently the lowest for knock, so I've been using that ever since.
 

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That's cool man. I know when I first got into the 11.50's I was so happy I nearly lost it in the car haha! It's a great high when you run a new PB or you see some improvement from a mod you made, etc.

Sean runs a bit more timing than Jay does. I noticed more KR with Sean's tunes than I get with Jay's. You may need to run a bit more octane, or just better quality fuel. You may be starting with only 91 from the pump even though it says 93. You never know with pump gas. If you have access to race fuel and it's within your budget, try some out. Mix your pump gas with some VP MS109 or Sunoco GT260 Plus. Shoot for 100-102 octane and bump your timing up 1-2 degrees over the 93 tune. It may pick up. The drawback is if you don't have a wideband, you can't tell what your AFR is. I had to add 8% fuel across the board when I mixed in 5 gallons of MS109 since it has so much oxygen in it. My AFR on 93 pump was around 12.2-12.5:1. Added in the MS109, and it jumped up to 13.1-13.4:1. Added 8% fuel across the board and dropped it back down to 12.2-12.5 again.

I've found BP 93 is the best pump gas, at least in my area. I did a test a while back and Shell 93 knocked like crazy. Put in some BP 93 no knock or a blip of .5 or so. Ran that out, put Shell 93 back in, knock city, getting 2-3 ST KR. Back to BP again, 0-0.5. I believe I tried Marathon as well and got 1-2 ST KR. It could have just been a bad batch of fuel that day too. But BP was consistently the lowest for knock, so I've been using that ever since.
My race tune is for 98 Octane. I have used QT, Shell, and Marathon 93 octane boosted to 98 with TORCO. The results with each have been about the same, 3 or 4 KR spikes of .5 or 1.0 degree around 3rd and 4th shift. Occasionally I will see a 1.5 spike. The only time I had what I would call excessive KR was when I used the off brand 90 octane pure gas spiked to 99 octane. I like the TORCO because it's very convenient and the results have been good. Upstate SC doesn't have much variety of anything and that holds true for gasoline as well. We have lots of 93 octane but few brands. The pure gas is mostly off brand and 87 octane. I was considering e85 but only know of one location that carries it and that location is a large local chain that I don't have a lot of faith in. I think race gas is probably the best move, Atlanta Dragway has Sunoco and there is a large VP distributor next door to the track.

Did you mention that you had a reasonably priced wide band that you were happy with? Maybe it was someone else. How did you add fuel? Thought you were a Diablo user and I,m not aware that fuel can be adjusted with the tuner.

I have a couple transmission tunes, have been running the most aggressive tune at the track. Think I'll follow your advice and try the less aggressive tune next time but even that ones fries the street tires when manually shifted to 2nd or 3rd at anything approaching half throttle.

Getting back to the 11.55 run, yea very happy but you know how that works, If I can do 11.5 then maybe I can do 11.4X. Actually I am sure the car will do 11.4 with the catless mids in good DA. Hope to improve fuel and shift a little before we get another chance of good DA in Oct. or Nov.
 

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My race tune is for 98 Octane. I have used QT, Shell, and Marathon 93 octane boosted to 98 with TORCO. The results with each have been about the same, 3 or 4 KR spikes of .5 or 1.0 degree around 3rd and 4th shift. Occasionally I will see a 1.5 spike. The only time I had what I would call excessive KR was when I used the off brand 90 octane pure gas spiked to 99 octane. I like the TORCO because it's very convenient and the results have been good. Upstate SC doesn't have much variety of anything and that holds true for gasoline as well. We have lots of 93 octane but few brands. The pure gas is mostly off brand and 87 octane. I was considering e85 but only know of one location that carries it and that location is a large local chain that I don't have a lot of faith in. I think race gas is probably the best move, Atlanta Dragway has Sunoco and there is a large VP distributor next door to the track.

Did you mention that you had a reasonably priced wide band that you were happy with? Maybe it was someone else. How did you add fuel? Thought you were a Diablo user and I,m not aware that fuel can be adjusted with the tuner.

I have a couple transmission tunes, have been running the most aggressive tune at the track. Think I'll follow your advice and try the less aggressive tune next time but even that ones fries the street tires when manually shifted to 2nd or 3rd at anything approaching half throttle.

Getting back to the 11.55 run, yea very happy but you know how that works, If I can do 11.5 then maybe I can do 11.4X. Actually I am sure the car will do 11.4 with the catless mids in good DA. Hope to improve fuel and shift a little before we get another chance of good DA in Oct. or Nov.
Oh ok I see. If you have some Sunoco or VP race fuel available nearby I would try some of that. Try to mix it to get 100 octane so you have a little cushion. It may run a little better, be more consistent, and eliminate any KR you're seeing.

Yes I am running a NTK wideband. It was $249 on sale, I think normally $299. It has helped me out a lot. Definitely worth having if you race a lot and use different fuel mixtures.

I'm not sure which tuner you're using, but I was told not to reduce the torque management off of the trans at all as they can burn up quick. My trans tune still has 100% torque management, but the shift points have been altered along with the firmness. Having Jay back off the 1-2 shift definitely helped, it was too violent before and spun the tires almost every pass.

I have a Diablosport T1000 (Trinity) tuner. You just go into modify parameters when loading your custom tune, then go to WOT fuel, and add or subtract fuel from there. There are three sections you have to modify (1000-3800, 3800-5000, 5000-7000RPM). I had to add 8% fuel across the board to get my AFR back to normal after adding in 5 gallons of VP MS109. I've found that with the Diablosport % changes, 1% is about .125 on the AFR. So if you want to richen your AFR up by .5 to go from say 13.0 down to 12.5, you would need to add about 4% fuel.

I'm the same way. It's an addiction. I ran 11.44 last year but spun slightly off the line. I think it may have had a 11.38-11.39 pass in it, but it just didn't pan out. This year with adding the catless pipes and fine tuning things a little more, I'm hoping for 11.30's in the fall on a perfect day. I'm hoping to see 11.50's more often in less than perfect air after the pipes. But we'll see.

I don't think there is much more I can do to the car to drop from the 11.3-11.4 range that doesn't cost a small fortune. I'm pretty happy with the car running how it is honestly and can't see spending $5K+ to drop a few more tenths at this point.
 

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Oh ok I see. If you have some Sunoco or VP race fuel available nearby I would try some of that. Try to mix it to get 100 octane so you have a little cushion. It may run a little better, be more consistent, and eliminate any KR you're seeing.

Yes I am running a NTK wideband. It was $249 on sale, I think normally $299. It has helped me out a lot. Definitely worth having if you race a lot and use different fuel mixtures.

I'm not sure which tuner you're using, but I was told not to reduce the torque management off of the trans at all as they can burn up quick. My trans tune still has 100% torque management, but the shift points have been altered along with the firmness. Having Jay back off the 1-2 shift definitely helped, it was too violent before and spun the tires almost every pass.

I have a Diablosport T1000 (Trinity) tuner. You just go into modify parameters when loading your custom tune, then go to WOT fuel, and add or subtract fuel from there. There are three sections you have to modify (1000-3800, 3800-5000, 5000-7000RPM). I had to add 8% fuel across the board to get my AFR back to normal after adding in 5 gallons of VP MS109. I've found that with the Diablosport % changes, 1% is about .125 on the AFR. So if you want to richen your AFR up by .5 to go from say 13.0 down to 12.5, you would need to add about 4% fuel.

I'm the same way. It's an addiction. I ran 11.44 last year but spun slightly off the line. I think it may have had a 11.38-11.39 pass in it, but it just didn't pan out. This year with adding the catless pipes and fine tuning things a little more, I'm hoping for 11.30's in the fall on a perfect day. I'm hoping to see 11.50's more often in less than perfect air after the pipes. But we'll see.

I don't think there is much more I can do to the car to drop from the 11.3-11.4 range that doesn't cost a small fortune. I'm pretty happy with the car running how it is honestly and can't see spending $5K+ to drop a few more tenths at this point.
Thanks for the tutorial on fuel adjustment. I have the T2 and have seen the WOT fuel adjustment but didn't know how to use it. It all makes sense now. Will also take a look at a Wideband now that I have some idea how to use it.

B Mason had an 11.39 in his similarly prepared SRT before he graduated to a Hellcat. I believe he ran that time in big negative DA. With his experience, knowledge and connections that may be close to the limit for these cars without major motor mods which Im not interested in.

There is one more area that may be worth investigating. In Carl's 11.44 thread, Solidman discussed his project to replace some rear control arms to be able to eliminate what he described as a negative camber issue. I think he claimed a pretty good pop on 0 - 60 and 60' times. I wasn't convinced there was enough there to merit the investment but saw a Work Play Drive Video that feature some AAD Control arms that enabled a street and strip setting. Today I took a close look at my DR's, the inside edge is showing considerably more wear than the remainder of the tire. As well the left side DR has spun on the wheel approximately twice as much as the right side so there may be some gain to be had from rear camber adjustment.
 

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Thanks for the tutorial on fuel adjustment. I have the T2 and have seen the WOT fuel adjustment but didn't know how to use it. It all makes sense now. Will also take a look at a Wideband now that I have some idea how to use it.

B Mason had an 11.39 in his similarly prepared SRT before he graduated to a Hellcat. I believe he ran that time in big negative DA. With his experience, knowledge and connections that may be close to the limit for these cars without major motor mods which Im not interested in.

There is one more area that may be worth investigating. In Carl's 11.44 thread, Solidman discussed his project to replace some rear control arms to be able to eliminate what he described as a negative camber issue. I think he claimed a pretty good pop on 0 - 60 and 60' times. I wasn't convinced there was enough there to merit the investment but saw a Work Play Drive Video that feature some AAD Control arms that enabled a street and strip setting. Today I took a close look at my DR's, the inside edge is showing considerably more wear than the remainder of the tire. As well the left side DR has spun on the wheel approximately twice as much as the right side so there may be some gain to be had from rear camber adjustment.
As Rob said Carl.....thank you for the excellent knowledge base. It now has me reconsidering to install a wideband. I am leaning hard against it....as I sill have a bunch of warranty left.....and the Wideband just draws a lot of attention. I think I'm pretty happy and at best there may be a few tenths still on the table without major mods....but we will see.

I bettered my best 0-60 time by .2 immediately (on the way home) after setting the rears to zero. Previous best was 4.1 and zero camber was 3.9 with full tires on the street. At the Track my best is now 3.5 0-60. A very noticeable seat of the pants "snap u back in the seat" increase as well. There was NONE before....just wheel spin. It was a joke. I am now utilizing the full width of the tires as well....like a solid axle.

I had the Front SPC adjustable A-arms installed yesterday. The front tires are now set a .25(quarter degree) and .50 (half degree) negative camber....rather than 1.4 and 1.7 before. The tires are straight up and down and do not look like it was in an accident as before! I was worried that it might start to drift and follow lines with the changes......but after a 40 mile test ride home.....I can attest to the following changes:

There is ZERO change in "felt" steering manners. It still goes straight a an arrow.....I can take my hands off the wheel and it still goes straight and no correction is needed. Part of my trip home was in Mexico......so I was able to briefly do some triple digit testing. I can attest that the car rolls easier. It takes noticeably longer to slow down when you let off the throttle. It seems smoother as well. There are tons of articles written on the "scrubbing effect" by too much negative camber.

I was able to throw it into a couple of familiar corners close to home...and it still grips the road like a scared monkey. I felt no difference in cornering ability which has always been stellar.

The Factory suspension parts are MUCH lighter and thinner than aftermarket ones. The Factory's theory is for them to be light enough to flex and the tires will change camber according to what you are doing. Negative camber to improve road manners.....and "flex" to zero camber around a corner to give you maximum contact patch.

Aftermarket parts keep the tire where you set it. I now have maximum contact patch all the time, with less rolling resistance. And thankfully....the electric steering keeps things as they were for road manners. The tires now wear evenly, I have more traction on all 4 corners, less rolling resistance and hopefully it will free up a little more speed at the track. It's a win-win in my book.... PS....The Demon comes with zero camber now.....wonder why!
 

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These cars are capable of 11.20's with bolt ons. I know a few guys who have reached that point. I'm not going with longtube headers or ported intake though, so I will likely not reach that point. My goal is 11.30's this year. I think with the catless pipes, removing the front sway bar, and running in some good air, I can hit somewhere in the 11.30's. I'd also like to run 11.50's more often in warmer air.

The wideband is great to have. You may not gain a whole lot, but you'll know what the heck is going on with your car. And if your fueling is really off, you could pick up some power. When you start mixing race fuels with different stoich points, without a wideband you're really just guessing as to how much fuel to add or remove.

I'm sure there is something to the suspension/camber changes. My car seems to hook up pretty good most of the time, but I'm sure some changes might improve it even more. I'll see how the car does this year and maybe next year I'll look into the suspension parts.

I've toyed with the idea of running a lightweight drivers seat as well, as the stock seat is 75lbs or so. But for the 40-50lbs of weight savings you give up the nice comfortable seat, and any functionality of your airbag in the event you crashed. Not to mention there is a lot of power crap hooked up to that seat, probably not just a couple harnesses under there, and more things to go wrong by removing it over and over. So I haven't pulled the trigger on that idea yet.

Lightweight battery is an option, but again, most are very small, require a trickle charger, and it's weight over the rear tires which is where you want more weight, not less. So I haven't messed with that either.
 

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These cars are capable of 11.20's with bolt ons. I know a few guys who have reached that point. I'm not going with longtube headers or ported intake though, so I will likely not reach that point. My goal is 11.30's this year. I think with the catless pipes, removing the front sway bar, and running in some good air, I can hit somewhere in the 11.30's. I'd also like to run 11.50's more often in warmer air.

The wideband is great to have. You may not gain a whole lot, but you'll know what the heck is going on with your car. And if your fueling is really off, you could pick up some power. When you start mixing race fuels with different stoich points, without a wideband you're really just guessing as to how much fuel to add or remove.

I'm sure there is something to the suspension/camber changes. My car seems to hook up pretty good most of the time, but I'm sure some changes might improve it even more. I'll see how the car does this year and maybe next year I'll look into the suspension parts.

I've toyed with the idea of running a lightweight drivers seat as well, as the stock seat is 75lbs or so. But for the 40-50lbs of weight savings you give up the nice comfortable seat, and any functionality of your airbag in the event you crashed. Not to mention there is a lot of power crap hooked up to that seat, probably not just a couple harnesses under there, and more things to go wrong by removing it over and over. So I haven't pulled the trigger on that idea yet.

Lightweight battery is an option, but again, most are very small, require a trickle charger, and it's weight over the rear tires which is where you want more weight, not less. So I haven't messed with that either.
I did spring for the MM Intake. It helped a bit....mainly on the upper rpms. I also run the 84mm FM TB. Longtubes are just not worth it for the cost / payback as per all the evidence that I have seen.

No doubt the Wideband would be great to have. However....Jay has me dialed in pretty dang close. I was on a Dyno a while back and the A/F ratio was dead on 12.5, 12.6 across the band. I do not experiment with race fuels. With a mechanical compression ratio of 10.9 there is a point that the extra octane begins to hurt performance. Around 96 octane is all they need. I use Klotz Octane Booster when I race and you can really feel the difference it makes. I have done some data logging with the Klotz.....and Jay added a touch more fuel and another degree of timing. The power is there but my "thorn in the side" this whole time is traction. With my current setup I am closing in on some good times.
I STILL have not had a full hit yet. Been too damn skeerd! lol

I'm confident with good air / temps I am in the mid or better 11's.

I did the back seat delete kit.....saved 60 lbs there. I pull the passenger seat before the track...another 65+ lbs. I'm keeping the heavy battery....hell....I might tape some weight to it! lol

I would like to be able to do a bit myself. Is there a PID on the Trinity for a/f ratio? I would like to play with it with different brands of gas. All we have in the Country here is Shell and BP. I run Shell always but after your experience I'm inclined to push the timing limit if I can easily do it myself and try different gas.

There is NO WAY I'm giving up my Drivers seat!!! When I was a young man....possibly. At 56.....HECK NO!! lol

We are in the range where very few people on the street can handle us. There are tons of Hellcats, Z71 Camaros and such that run in the 12's because of improper setup. They have a lot more power. But "spinnin ain't winnin" as I can definitely attest to!


It's hard to argue with success. Dr. Carl you are my Hero for sure! Props to Ridgeback and Rob as well! (they bad) You got a good Hot Rod that lays down great #'s consistently. Too me....thats success:)
 

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I did spring for the MM Intake. It helped a bit....mainly on the upper rpms. I also run the 84mm FM TB. Longtubes are just not worth it for the cost / payback as per all the evidence that I have seen.

No doubt the Wideband would be great to have. However....Jay has me dialed in pretty dang close. I was on a Dyno a while back and the A/F ratio was dead on 12.5, 12.6 across the band. I do not experiment with race fuels. With a mechanical compression ratio of 10.9 there is a point that the extra octane begins to hurt performance. Around 96 octane is all they need. I use Klotz Octane Booster when I race and you can really feel the difference it makes. I have done some data logging with the Klotz.....and Jay added a touch more fuel and another degree of timing. The power is there but my "thorn in the side" this whole time is traction. With my current setup I am closing in on some good times.
I STILL have not had a full hit yet. Been too damn skeerd! lol

I'm confident with good air / temps I am in the mid or better 11's.

I did the back seat delete kit.....saved 60 lbs there. I pull the passenger seat before the track...another 65+ lbs. I'm keeping the heavy battery....hell....I might tape some weight to it! lol

I would like to be able to do a bit myself. Is there a PID on the Trinity for a/f ratio? I would like to play with it with different brands of gas. All we have in the Country here is Shell and BP. I run Shell always but after your experience I'm inclined to push the timing limit if I can easily do it myself and try different gas.

There is NO WAY I'm giving up my Drivers seat!!! When I was a young man....possibly. At 56.....HECK NO!! lol

We are in the range where very few people on the street can handle us. There are tons of Hellcats, Z71 Camaros and such that run in the 12's because of improper setup. They have a lot more power. But "spinnin ain't winnin" as I can definitely attest to!


It's hard to argue with success. Dr. Carl you are my Hero for sure! Props to Ridgeback and Rob as well! (they bad) You got a good Hot Rod that lays down great #'s consistently. Too me....thats success:)
I can't see doing longtubes either. If I had a money tree in my backyard maybe, but sadly I don't.

A wideband is good to have regardless. Even basic modded cars running a solid email tune can be off. Every car is different, every atmosphere is different, and each batch of fuel you can is slightly different. More than likely you're in the ballpark, but there's always room for improvement. Once I got the wideband installed I found my car was running a tad lean. I told Jay and he richened up the tune a bit. Probably a 5-7hp difference if that, but still every bit helps. It's a good thing to have, but I understand your point of view as well.

I run 100-102 octane in my car, but I have more timing in the tune over the 93 tune I run on the street. I have it dialed in pretty good. I added 1 degree more at the track last year and the MPH stayed the same, so I backed it back out. No KR, just pulls hard. I like to run 1-2 points of octane over whatever the tune is setup for, just for a little cushion.

The Trinity can log A/F ratio, but you need a wideband. It requires an analog cable from your wideband to plug into the Trinity itself. I've set it up on my car and ran a few logs. But I generally just watch the gauge on the street, get it dialed in good, then I go run it. My first pass I check it and if it's somewhere between 12.0-12.5 I'm happy. The factory O2 sensors are narrowband only, 0-1V I believe, they just monitor and aim for 14.7:1. The wideband is 0-5V and can monitor 0-20:1 I believe. It's the additional O2 sensor that you need, not just a gauge.

Running mid 11's is nothing to sneeze at. I know I'm not the fastest Scat Pack out there, but there's usually not many faster 392 cars that are N/A whenever I go to the track. Most are running 11.8-12.3. All the little tricks help and add up. I'd love to have a Hellcat, but I'm not paying an extra $15-17K out of pocket after trading my car in and picking up a used Hellcat. I could do a lot of stuff with that $15K, to either my car, my Nova, my house, with the wife and kids, vacation, savings, etc. I never thought I could get the car to run as fast as it is currently. Back when I first got it low 12's was my goal, and 11.99 was a dream. Had no clue how much these cars were capable of. It's been a lot of fun racing it and learning things over the past few years.

Glad some of my tips have helped you! Good to see other guys going fast at the track and having fun too. Always fun to see the Ford and GM guys snickering at our "boats" only to see them run mid 11's with some minor mods haha!
 

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I can't see doing longtubes either. If I had a money tree in my backyard maybe, but sadly I don't.

A wideband is good to have regardless. Even basic modded cars running a solid email tune can be off. Every car is different, every atmosphere is different, and each batch of fuel you can is slightly different. More than likely you're in the ballpark, but there's always room for improvement. Once I got the wideband installed I found my car was running a tad lean. I told Jay and he richened up the tune a bit. Probably a 5-7hp difference if that, but still every bit helps. It's a good thing to have, but I understand your point of view as well.

I run 100-102 octane in my car, but I have more timing in the tune over the 93 tune I run on the street. I have it dialed in pretty good. I added 1 degree more at the track last year and the MPH stayed the same, so I backed it back out. No KR, just pulls hard. I like to run 1-2 points of octane over whatever the tune is setup for, just for a little cushion.

The Trinity can log A/F ratio, but you need a wideband. It requires an analog cable from your wideband to plug into the Trinity itself. I've set it up on my car and ran a few logs. But I generally just watch the gauge on the street, get it dialed in good, then I go run it. My first pass I check it and if it's somewhere between 12.0-12.5 I'm happy. The factory O2 sensors are narrowband only, 0-1V I believe, they just monitor and aim for 14.7:1. The wideband is 0-5V and can monitor 0-20:1 I believe. It's the additional O2 sensor that you need, not just a gauge.

Running mid 11's is nothing to sneeze at. I know I'm not the fastest Scat Pack out there, but there's usually not many faster 392 cars that are N/A whenever I go to the track. Most are running 11.8-12.3. All the little tricks help and add up. I'd love to have a Hellcat, but I'm not paying an extra $15-17K out of pocket after trading my car in and picking up a used Hellcat. I could do a lot of stuff with that $15K, to either my car, my Nova, my house, with the wife and kids, vacation, savings, etc. I never thought I could get the car to run as fast as it is currently. Back when I first got it low 12's was my goal, and 11.99 was a dream. Had no clue how much these cars were capable of. It's been a lot of fun racing it and learning things over the past few years.

Glad some of my tips have helped you! Good to see other guys going fast at the track and having fun too. Always fun to see the Ford and GM guys snickering at our "boats" only to see them run mid 11's with some minor mods haha!
I have not seen any evidence that LT's provide any performance gain on a stock NA engine with bolt ons. There are some Demons in low 9's running the shorties.

I looked into a lightweight drivers seat but from what I see the reduction isn't much when seat + track are factored in. Can't see doing a seat unless it saves at least 25 lbs.

I often think about a Hellcat, came very close to pulling the trigger on a Redeye last fall. Without much work it will go mid 10's but before long I would be looking for 9's and looking at pulleys, E85 etc. I decided at least for now the challenge is to make the Scat Pack go as fast as I can with stock engine and minor bolt on mods. I think we can all possibly see an 11.3X on that special day. 11.3 from a DD, NA, basically stock, heavy car is nothing to sneeze at. Last time I went to test and tune I took a break and watched the entire field run, there were precious few cars faster than our Challengers.
 
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