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Discussion Starter #1
Just had the water pump start to fail on my 2012 RT. Car just turned over 80k, and the problem came on suddenly. I stopped driving it as soon as I heard the pump start to go.

Took a week or so to get the new part but then swapping it out was fairly straight forward. Intake pipe has to come off, as well as the belt but that was about it. The manual recommends taking off the fan, but I got away without doing that. You will need to swap the small idler pulley out from the old pump as well as your belt tensioner.

Drain all the coolant before you start unbolting things, but you will still have a bunch of fluid come out of the pump when it comes off.

There are Ten 13mm bolts holding the pump to the both the timing cover and the block. They are 2 different lengths so try to keep track of where they come out. If you don't (like I didn't) you can tell where they go by looking at the threads and the sleeves in the timing cover. They old gasket was pretty much disintegrated and I did spend a good deal of time scraping the face of the timing cover clean. Make sure to shove some rags into your coolant ports so you don't get any FM in the cooling system.

The first thing I did was to polish the new pump. Only took me about 2 hours to polish. The casting is actually quite good so I was able to start with 220 wheels on the dremmel tool and then went to 400 by hand and then 800 by hand before finishing up with emery and the polishing wheel. Also took off the idler pulley and polished that, which only took about 30 minutes and cost me $7 for the dremmel wheel and some elbow grease. I think this has been the best bang for my buck under the hood to date! And while I was at it, I did a half assed polishing on the belt tensioner.

I did paint the bolts but then immediately messed them up torquing them down.

Everything went back on smoothly. Bolts get torqued to 21 ft/lbs which I did in an cross pattern. Put the pump assembly on first and then the idler pulley on the pump housing and then the tensioner. It is next to impossible to get the torque wrench in there with the pulley on the pump housing. To fill the coolant you remove the bung on the top of the pump hosing and add coolant to the over flow tank until coolant leaks out of the bung hole. Place a rag under the hole so you don't get coolant everywhere (a lot will come out).

Once your coolant is topped off. Crank the engine a couple of times, then start it with the overflow tank cap off to let any air out of the system. After everything is looking good and you see there are no leaks, take a short drive then let it cool off and open up the cap. Top off with more coolant if necessary.

Then, enjoy your new pump and shiny things!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My pump went at about 80k. It also never completely ceased, I just noticed the noise for the impeller and figured it out after a couple of days.

When you order it, just make sure you give Mopar your VIN so you get the right one.
 

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How many miles did your water pump last? I'm reaching 65K miles

Mine made it to about 66k miles before I noticed coolant leaking from it. This would only occur if the car sat for a few days, but was substantial. From what I hear, this isn't unheard of for the 5.7 at around that mileage but perhaps I'm wrong? Since replacing the water pump, I haven't seen any leaks though. This also provided a good opportunity to replace the accessory belt too.
 
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