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2016 R/T Scat Pack
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Discussion Starter #1
2010 R/T Classic .... She's still running good. Some things I've learned along the way...

:grin2:Knock on wood, still running the original battery (build date Nov '09)
:mah:Tires only last 30k no matter the brand or mileage rating.
:grin2: The Flowmaster Force II exhaust still sounds as good today as it did 8 years ago.
:surprise: I'm a Hemi spark plug expert .. WTH were they thinking with 30k plugs in this platinum age??
:6: MDS sucks!!! Whatever update they did when my TC broke the ***** goes in early and stays on at any speed. HATE IT! So glad a bought that used Diablo years ago to turn it off. Oh and the gas mileage doesn't change much with or without it.
:wink3: CAI's are mostly hype but they do look better. If I had a do over I would have done the Charger tube mod.
:wink3: The book says 89 is recommended and 87 is acceptable. I've run a lot of both. Buy the 89 it's worth the extra $.30
 

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Glad to see that you're still racking up the miles.


Yep, the MDS does stay on long and hard, as mine did too. I loved my Force II also. Great sound.


Keep on enjoying that sweetheart.
 

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Great write up. :wink3:

Even with a V6 Challenger, getting 30K out of a set of tires is hard to do. I don't want to drive like a Granny. I bought my car to have fun.
 

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I've got 65K on my 13. I got 13K on the F1 Supercars that came with it. Got 40K on Eagle Sports (and got Goodyear to take them back at 5/32 and give me 20% off another set of Eagle Sports). So I'm getting 40K on a 50K guarantee tire. Mine came with copper plugs, but I put iridium spark-plugs in. My 13 has the same engine/coil-packs etc... as the newer ones, so I only had to do that job once. I'm not gonna push my luck on the battery. I'm at 5 1/2 years in service so I'm going to pre-emptively replace mine before the next 4200 mile (round trip) road trip to Florida this Summer. No way I wanna be with a dead battery on the road trip.

I like hearing about some longevity in these cars. I'm not a huge fan of the 15+ design or the 8AT (love my 5AT), and I'm not sure what the next refresh or the new platform will do to this car. In the case they euro-weenie the car up on the Mazzerati platform, I may just hang on to this one until it becomes cost-prohibitive to run. I put 12K a year on it, from March - November.


Now if I can just get my dealer to take care of the Alternator and Air Bag recall, I can start driving it again.
 

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I've got a 2009 R/T and I had to replace the stock battery last year...but about 6 months afterwards I also got to replace the stock alternator. I've had no real complaints about the car and just hit 111,111 miles today. I was going to take a pic of that on the odometer but was driving and didn't realize I had hit it until I got home so it's like 111,124 or something right now. There's been very little to complain about for my car and it was the guinea pig basically for the whole run, since it was early 2009 when the R/T's were just getting onto the market and Daimler-Chrysler was in bankruptcy at the time I bought it. However the BONUS was that it came with a lifetime powertrain warranty, so I was hoping that would be worth something. I know Dodge catches a lot of flak on vehicle reliability from Consumer Reports and other ratings brokers, but I am happy with my purchase and will likely keep my paid-off Challenger until I decide to get another one - Hellcat or SP at least.
 
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Glad to see that your R/T is still running fine.

Nine years on the same battery must be close to a record. I would replace it before it strands you somewhere.

Also, you have probably been through four sets of tires. Have you replaced the TPMS sensors or do you keep using the same ones? Like your car battery, they have a limited life.
 

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Early 2009 R/T 6sp 126000 changed out clutch at 30K only because it was apart for the sticking in gear fix. Had 2 bad head gaskets at 96k the unlimited warranty took care of that along with the whole front suspension 120K. I've been using it as a commuter car for the past year 100 mi a day. I just bought at 2017 T/A 392 but will keep the R/T for the drive to work. It's been a great car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Glad to see that your R/T is still running fine.

Nine years on the same battery must be close to a record. I would replace it before it strands you somewhere.

Also, you have probably been through four sets of tires. Have you replaced the TPMS sensors or do you keep using the same ones? Like your car battery, they have a limited life.
They were all original sensors. I had two bad TPMS sensors replaced last fall at the dealer just before my 120k warranty went out. The other two were replaced about 2 months ago at Discount Tire.
 

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You guys have pics of these "old" beauties? Thread wouldn't be complete without them.
 

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Got 105K on my '12 R/T, have been meticulous about maintenance on it from day one and installed synthetics in everything at 4K miles, and did 100K service which included changing coolant and flushing, bleeding entire brake system again(done at 82K when front pads were replaced) and new oil/filter/trans oil. I also change the differential oil each oil change(10K miles)as it is very easy to do and takes 10 minutes. I change trans oil every other oil change and installed a drain valve on the trans so x-member would not have to come off each time. I use AmsOil lubricants and have had no trouble in 41 years of using their product.
On 3rd serpentine belt now(change them @ 50K), and new battery @ 101K on time change(old one was still good). Car spent 95% of its life on the highway so far. I use Goodyear Assurance touring tires, got 59K out of 1st set and bought another set of them @ 92K miles. Original Michelins went 33K before they hit wear bars even with rotation at proper intervals. My tires get rotated every 5K miles so wear is pretty even.
Airbag recall done last year @ 92K, and alternator recall was just done last month @ 104K miles. Pretty nice to get a free alternator after I pretty much wore out the old one.........!
Only problems are/were:
The dreaded blend door actuator that failed at 75K miles, changed myself for $28.00, hvac system took 4 months to figure itself out and still blows either cold or hot with no in between. No biggie, live in warm climate so A/C gets used mainly.
Airbag indicator would stick on. Unplugged the harness and replugged a few times now, works fine.
Clutch would disengage slowly, did clutch check valve delete and problem solved.
2 bad TPMS sensors @ 60K miles, replaced them at Discount Tire.
Cruise control would not switch on at 102K miles, wiggled horn button and works fine. Suspect bad switch or connection inside steering wheel behind airbag.
The dreaded "hemi tick" was there about 2 weeks after I got the car, has not gotten better or worse. Used to solid lifters in cars so no biggie, wonder sometimes if the factory engineered it that way so it would sound old school or something. .020" longer pushrods will cure that, not a priority.
Can't complain about this car, CAI from K&N w/Volant paper air filter works well and Flowmaster American Thunder still works and sound *****en 100K and over 5 years later. Averages 23-25 mpg on the highway even on 87 octane regular swill during long road runs. Engine does not use or leak any oil.
I'm happy with this car, plan on keeping it for awhile, will fix it as needed if stuff wears out.
 

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72- what spark plug do you like? I don't really want to shell out for Iridium or something super expensive.

I usually like to change plugs every three years or so just so they don't get stuck in the heads. I'm a huge fan of Permatex anti-sieze compound, one of the sacraments of automotive gurus.
 
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I just use the standard issue NGK plugs that came with the car, changed them @ 33K, 66K, and 99K as per owners' manual recommendations every 33K miles. Also got a large bottle of Permatex anti-seize compound myself.........have a few motorcycles as well that benefit from that stuff on sparkplug threads.
Thought about iridium sparkplugs but had heard of CEL/trouble codes being set due to the different resistance values with a wire tip plug.
 

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Thought I would add my 2 cents worth. 2012 R/T Plus, 113000 miles. I have the STP package, so 3.92 rear gears. This car has been on only one trip longer than the drive between Omaha and Lincoln Nebraska.
Lets start with tires. The original Goodyears, the summer only tires that came on it last me 25k miles, and I drove through the winter on them. Not a great tire, but did handle well. Went with Michelins next, but unless I go dig out the receipt, I do not remember which ones they were. They were a 45k mile rated tire, and they lasted 33k. The Goodyears and the Michelins I rotated every 3-4k miles, and kept air pressure at the door tag pressure. Both sets wore out the centers long before the outer edges even started showing signs of wear. After the Michelins, I put on a set of the BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 A/S. Directional, 45k mile rated, and they last me 31k at the door tag pressure. I liked them so much I currently have another set on the car. I have been running this set at 30 psi, and the centers are not showing much wear yet. I do run some weight in the trunk when it gets nasty out in the winter, but nothing like I had to with the first two sets of tires.

Maintenance items next! I have done literally nothing to this car. Still on the original battery. Original belts and hoses, and no real issues. Did just have the alternator replaced under the recall (I agree it was nice to use the other one up and get a new one for free!). I have changed the transmission and rear end fluid 3 times myself. The first time I used Amsoil products, but I was not happy with the transmission feel with it in there. So I put in Royal purple the second time. When I did the third change, I went with Royal purple again, and I have to say, the fluid that came out of the transmission was still purple! A little darker, but nothing like the Amsoil when I changed that. The rear was...overdue, it seemed, each time. But I do not have any gear whine at all, so I am not complaining. I did have my radio changed out. The USB port in it quite working, so now I have one from a Chrysler 200 in it.

Like the other guy stated, I changed the plugs with the factory recommended ones. I changed them out the first time 35k, and then I changed them out TODAY. So, I had roughly 78k on that last set. My experience here is that, well, the plugs looked amazing that I took out. However, 3 of them were loose. Not rattle around loose, but also not snug. I did not put any anti-seize on the threads on the last set, and mine came right out. They are sealed in there pretty good. As far as how they looked, only one cylinder did the plugs have any kind of oily looking residue on them. And one of the loose plugs was whiter than the rest (guessing it was possibly getting extra air in there, but the other plug in the same cylinder looked all nice and light brown like the rest did, so I have no idea). I will have to take some pictures of the old ones. As for the car after the plug change: it idled better on cold start up both times today. It is smoother between gears (it's a M6 car), seems like the throttle is more responsive, and the exhaust note changed. The exhaust is the only modification really done to the car (skip shift eliminator, but not really a mod, more of a convenience).

I have not had any issue with my window solenoids. Have not had, seen, or been informed about any airbag recall, so maybe I am safe there. I did drive around for a couple months with the sub box in the trunk well unplugged. Not sure how that happened, as I never go in there. I just happened to be doing a deep clean back there one day and noticed it was not plugged in. If I had to recommend anything to someone buying one of these, I would say take out the wheel wells and spray bed liner or something into the corners at the bottoms. I have a pretty good rust spot in my paint in front of the drivers side rear wheel, just above that black plastic strip down the side. I also have monitored my gas mileage since I bought it. The best mileage I have ever gotten was on that one long trip, and that was only 24.6 mpg. When I got gas last Friday, I pulled 18.1, and my average over the last couple of months was 18.1-18.7. I drive on a nice 3 lane interstate, about 77-78 mph with the cruise on everyday. I can update if my mileage goes up with the new plugs in. I am still on my stock clutch, and no mod done to that system. I did change out the pads and rotors around 80-84k. I do need to do the brake/clutch fluid though, but I will wait until I get ready to replace the rubber lines on the car with steel braided coated Teflon style or something. The fastest I have had the car up to is 154.5 (I have that top speed thing unlocked from the "secret" menu), and that is all the car has. That is in 5th gear, for almost a mile at that speed, and I am not tach'd out, it just feels like something is holding back. Not like the late 90's Chevy pickups that totally drop out, and then pick back up, more like it is out of fuel to go faster, or there isn't enough timing to get anymore out of her.

My interior looks brand new, except I have worn a hole in both my original fuzzy fancy floor mat and the dodge brand rubber one on the drivers side. I removed the chrome trim ring around the shifter boot and painted it with that tint paint so it looks like black chrome, but doesn't glare into my eyes when the sun is high up in the summer sky. Oh, and at 100k I finally put a Barton shifter in the car (never going back to stock, unless I trade or get rid of this car, which at this point I don't have plans to). I drive this car everyday, haul my 2 kids around in it, and sometimes even the wife. It may not be the fastest thing out there, but it has the room, and comfort to use daily.
 

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Sounds like you are getting the same good service out of your car as I have with mine. I agree on the sparkplug issue, will be leaving this set in for awhile. Mine is also still on the original clutch, using it for mostly long road runs, it should hold up well for quite awhile longer, and has the standard R/T 18" wheels w/limited slip 3.73 ratio.
Each to their own on lubricants out there, no worries here. Glad to know that yours and other peoples' rides are holding up well under daily usage or long trips, or both. Someone in another forum gave me a bad time about putting so many miles on my car, but, it's meant to be driven, not be a museum piece.
 
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2010 Rallye Redline with 127,825 miles on it right now. I bought the car used 2.5 years ago with 32000 on it, and I have been driving it to and from work every day ever since (approx 3500 miles per month).

No major issues up until now, except for a charging system fault that was a major pain to figure out but easy to fix (bad plug on alternator wiring harness). Some minor break/fixes I’ve done are front wheel hub/bearing, alternator (not part of the recall unfortunately), trunk latch, and drivers side inside door handle. I also had to replace one of the rocker arm assemblies after the chattering during cold startups got to be so loud as to be unnerving in even just cool weather.

I do all the maintenance myself, and have done spark plugs once (iridium), brake fluid twice (about to do again), power steering fluid once, rear diff fluid once, and trans fluid several times (drain and fill 3 qts at a time) along with the trans filter once.

I also recently added a cabin air filter which is nice, and I wish I had done it sooner since I no longer get a fine layer of dust every time I drive thru a construction zone.

I don’t have the Hemi in this one, but that doesn’t keep me from driving it like I do. I’ve had a DiabloSport canned tune loaded on it almost from the beginning and spend an absurd amount of time at WOT. I tried an aftermarket CAI but ultimately went back to the stock setup because of poor quality of the CAI.

I do go thru tires very quickly, but at 3500 miles a month, that’s to be expected I suppose.

This is my 2nd Challenger so far, and at this rate I expect I’ll be getting another one before too long. What can I say, when I find something I like, I stick with it!
 

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sr71- my question about spark plugs was directed at the OP 72/340, but thanks for chiming in. Has anyone used a platinum plug or any other aftermarket?

Now I'm using a Motorcraft platinum plug in my LT1, instead of AC Delco. The AC plugs are now made in Mexico and they sometimes break off at the ceramic as you tighten them up. Third world garbage when AC plugs used to be made in U.S. when I got the car.
 

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72- what spark plug do you like? I don't really want to shell out for Iridium or something super expensive.

I usually like to change plugs every three years or so just so they don't get stuck in the heads. I'm a huge fan of Permatex anti-sieze compound, one of the sacraments of automotive gurus.
Any plug that has a bright plated body = no anti seize compound. NGK has a bulletin about that.
-that finish is designed around aluminum heads. Applying anti seize will result in torquing the plugs more than what it is called for.

If its a dull finish or a dark anodized plug body, then anti seize is fine.

I use NGK in the my other car (aluminium heads) and it calls for every 5 years / 100k, and I change them every 5 years, as I don't reach the mileage. No issues with them. Those are tapered seat in that application.
 
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