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Discussion Starter #1
hello all
I've been having my transmission grinding when I put it inreverse; if I put it in 1st and then reverse, no grinding. After reading thearchives I assumed it was the reverse synchros. Car is at the dealer now andthey say it's the clutch and that year had no reverse synchros. Of course,since it's claimed to be the clutch , not under warranty and cost $1,700.
They're telling me the clutch smells, and I swear there isno burnt clutch smell in my car when I drive it. Wouldn't it be slipping inforward gears as well?
Does the 2015 6M no longer have reverse synchros?
Can someone tell me how many hours does the book say thisjobs should be billed?
 

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All Tremecs have reverse synchros - the shop is giving you a line of nonsense.

My suspected items would be:

*slave cylinder issue
*input shaft not greased correctly (this will cause friction disc to stick / hang on shaft)

and if the clutch were worn, it would slip in forward gears
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Hal H. It didn't sound right to me; hence the question. I called them back and told them the fact that it doesn't slip in any gear. They came back "oh we had three techs look at it; but to be sure they have to drop the tranny".


So at least I put them on notice that I am not buying the clutch story. Paying $350 if not covered under warranty (goes towards repair if I have to pay "rolleyes") just for dropping the tranny and seeing more clearly what's wrong... Hopefully it's something other than clutch and throw out bearing which wouldn't be covered under warranty.


I have 62K highway miles on it. One owner... Miles are all highway (60 mi roundtrip commute each day, lol). I feel a clutch lasts longer than that. My other car 1998 Mustang GT, original and stock, just had the clutch changed first time with 116K miles.
 

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hello all
I've been having my transmission grinding when I put it inreverse; if I put it in 1st and then reverse, no grinding. After reading thearchives I assumed it was the reverse synchros. Car is at the dealer now andthey say it's the clutch and that year had no reverse synchros. Of course,since it's claimed to be the clutch , not under warranty and cost $1,700.
They're telling me the clutch smells, and I swear there isno burnt clutch smell in my car when I drive it. Wouldn't it be slipping inforward gears as well?
Does the 2015 6M no longer have reverse synchros?
Can someone tell me how many hours does the book say thisjobs should be billed?
Hi shoes,

Sorry to hear about this! Have you had a customer care case opened and escalated for further assistance? If not please send us a PM with your VIN so I can start this process for you.

Andrea
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi shoes,

Sorry to hear about this! Have you had a customer care case opened and escalated for further assistance? If not please send us a PM with your VIN so I can start this process for you.

Andrea
Dodge Social Care Specialist

Thank you. PM forthcoming.
 

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Im going to disagree a bit and say I have clutches that are bad and not slip. The springs get weak on the diagram and the shifting gets lousy. The clutch friction material is ok no slip but tell tale sign for me is hard getting it into first and reverse.

Since is doesn't sound like its in warranty if you need to use reverse shut the car off first then reverse then start it. Should be able to milk it along for quite a while I have been doing it to my old truck for about 20 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Greenin I totally agree you could go through that process each time you want to hit reverse, but with 62K miles on a two year old car (I am the original owner)? No way, not right. The car has is not street raced, no track, no spray. Disappointing Dodge quality for a 2 year old car (third Dodge product in a row for me, but the other two were auto's). If in fact it is the clutch, trading it in as soon as I can (POS).
 

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I feel for you last clutch in one of my Hondas went 220k miles and I down shift. I cant say 62k is alot of miles or a little but these are performance cars and some things wear faster.

Good luck what ever you do.
 

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I feel for you last clutch in one of my Hondas went 220k miles and I down shift. I cant say 62k is alot of miles or a little but these are performance cars and some things wear faster.

Good luck what ever you do.
Yup, and the clutch delay valve doesn't not help with extending clutch life.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just an update: Arrigo Dodge in S Florida where it's at said after taking the transmission out they confirmed it was the clutch. I am fine with that as they actually looked inside.


Initial cost to take the tranny out was $300 and I said ok. They left out minor detail that it would be another $300 to put it back in if I decided to take the car elsewhere (at least drive it out, lol).... I am not happy with this dealer at all; they dropped the ball. They should've said "Mr Shoes, it will be $300 to take trans out to see the problem and another $300 to put it back in.".


Stopped by another shop (they are the ones that replaced my Mustang's clutch a few months ago) yesterday to get an estimate on the labor... Figure I will put the car on a flat bed , put the trans in my truck.


Cost estimate from dealer is $1,180 for clutch / pressure plate, etc. Stock flywheel will be resurfaced.


I am going to search the archives on my clutch choices and see what my options are. Any suggestions on a source online for the clutch? Aftermarket, Mcleod (sp?) or should I just go Mopar or other brand?


The following I am just sharing, not related to my issue now.


My 2004 Mustang GT, traded it in with 120K miles on original clutch. The last 60K miles of the car I sprayed 100 shot on occasion, and took it to the track every few months.


My current 1998 Mustang GT, all stock, just changed the original clutch with 116K miles. It wasn't slipping but the throw-out bearing was making noise.


Obviously not getting another 6M Dodge product after this sour experience.
 

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Sounds like the diaphragm spring, as GreeninTN eluded to, on the pressure plate assembly is bad. I don't think the clutch(s) themselves are bad. But usually you replace the entire set.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update

Picked up the car today. Reverse grinds worst, big time worst than before....i put it in first then reverse and it grinds less. I drive th car over to the service manager and he grans the mechanic.. “it’s the actuator, you have to drive it for a little bit, after about pumping tha clutch a few hundred times, it ill be fine. Wtf? I should’ve left the car.. but I think I was in shock. Who know if there was nothing wrong with the clutch to begin with, ughh..

Thanks alot Arrigo Dodge in S Fl!
 

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Update

Picked up the car today. Reverse grinds worst, big time worst than before....i put it in first then reverse and it grinds less. I drive th car over to the service manager and he grans the mechanic.. “it’s the actuator, you have to drive it for a little bit, after about pumping tha clutch a few hundred times, it ill be fine. Wtf? I should’ve left the car.. but I think I was in shock. Who know if there was nothing wrong with the clutch to begin with, ughh..

Thanks alot Arrigo Dodge in S Fl!
It takes like 100-150 (service manual says up to 200) pumps of the pedal to bleed air out of the system. Sounds like they did not do this and if so how were they able to test drive to verify the problem was fixed? I would not drive it around to bleed the system, sit in the car and count the pumps...should increase in firmness.
 
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