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Discussion Starter #1
So I just bought a 17 challenger 5.7 RT 6 speed brand new and im not a big mechanical person I guess you can say I mean i've worked at an autopart store a couple years back but not familiar with hardcore engine components such as lifters/cams/springs ect... So my question is I'm planning on purchasing a SC and 274 comp cams (mostly for the sound) I was wondering if it would have any issues running this? I'll be running on stock internals so I'm not sure how far I can push it. I've tried looking up this combo on google before I posted just no luck.

Also curious as I heard these new challengers have an exhaust valve (not sure what you would call it) but I think when you push the sport mode it opens up that little module door and creates a louder noise coming from the exhaust (sorry im a noobie). Just wondering if theres a way to just delete that or just keep it open or if you can give me the name of that part so that I can search more info on that?
 

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I have seen some 5.7 hemi's with stock internals meaning crank, rods and pistons run to 650 hp at the crank with boost. Most don't recommend doing this and say 500 to 550 (crank) range is pretty safe for the 5.7 to give it longevity. Been a while back somewhere where I saw where some folks took a 5.7 til it broke. breaking it down to like the block was good for 700 hp, the crank was good for 650 hp and the pistons was good for 600 hp and so forth- been a long time since I read that- which means my hp levels of things breaking could be wrong.

I do know some folks have posted elsewhere where they will chime in and tout they are making big numbers with their 5.7 beyond the 550 crank mark, the question is for how long. Many sources seem to quote the same hp numbers between 500 and even 600 hp crank hp is all you should really push the stock 5.7

take it for what it is, just put a blower on it and run it, make sure you have a good tune, the cam itself really won't make any "more" power, very expensive cam just for "sound" save your money and buy a better exhaust set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have seen some 5.7 hemi's with stock internals meaning crank, rods and pistons run to 650 hp at the crank with boost. Most don't recommend doing this and say 500 to 550 (crank) range is pretty safe for the 5.7 to give it longevity. Been a while back somewhere where I saw where some folks took a 5.7 til it broke. breaking it down to like the block was good for 700 hp, the crank was good for 650 hp and the pistons was good for 600 hp and so forth- been a long time since I read that- which means my hp levels of things breaking could be wrong.

I do know some folks have posted elsewhere where they will chime in and tout they are making big numbers with their 5.7 beyond the 550 crank mark, the question is for how long. Many sources seem to quote the same hp numbers between 500 and even 600 hp crank hp is all you should really push the stock 5.7

take it for what it is, just put a blower on it and run it, make sure you have a good tune, the cam itself really won't make any "more" power, very expensive cam just for "sound" save your money and buy a better exhaust set up.
I will be buying an exhaust set up but I just like the old school sound that the 274 cam gives from the videos i've been watching that is. I'm not really looking to make it go up to 700hp later in the future maybe after I pay off the car i'll start a project on an old school dodge but as of now just trying to satisfy my needs of speed by just being able to beat some random local shitty hondas that are around. I mean I can already but being able to blow them away is even better. I'm trying to make atleast 400-450 to the wheels nothing too quick but not too slow either.
 

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I run an 8lb maggie and probably put down 470ish at the wheels (never dynoed). I put together a list specific to 5.7L:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f18/power-adders-vs-dyno-numbers-5-7l-623426/?623426=#post7954402

For your active exhaust I am sure the tuner can deactivate or modify. Someone showed that HPtuner can adjust.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f181/tuning-active-exhaust-622794/?622794=#post7946386

As for the 274 and FI, you might want to talk to vendors like modern muscle, arrington, steve white, or HHP (the ones that come to mind) and see what cam they recommend. I have read some folks using cams that don't work well with forced induction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I run an 8lb maggie and probably put down 470ish at the wheels (never dynoed). I put together a list specific to 5.7L:



For your active exhaust I am sure the tuner can deactivate or modify. Someone showed that HPtuner can adjust.



As for the 274 and FI, you might want to talk to vendors like modern muscle, arrington, steve white, or HHP (the ones that come to mind) and see what cam they recommend. I have read some folks using cams that don't work well with forced induction.
So are you running this with stock internals?
 

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I'm feeling like I should just quickly pay off my challenger and just buy a scat pack rt... I dont know why i didn't think of that before haha. Guess just the fact of getting a new car is too overwhelming.
 

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I run an 8lb maggie and probably put down 470ish at the wheels (never dynoed). I put together a list specific to 5.7L:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f18/power-adders-vs-dyno-numbers-5-7l-623426/?623426=#post7954402

For your active exhaust I am sure the tuner can deactivate or modify. Someone showed that HPtuner can adjust.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f181/tuning-active-exhaust-622794/?622794=#post7946386

As for the 274 and FI, you might want to talk to vendors like modern muscle, arrington, steve white, or HHP (the ones that come to mind) and see what cam they recommend. I have read some folks using cams that don't work well with forced induction.
I'll second ^^^ this.

The 274 cam is known to be "too much" for a 5.7; many tuning issues and the maker even states this.
-the operating range for a 274 model is 2,400 - 7,400 which for street driving you're running 1,000 - 2,500 rpm.

The 266 version cam has operating range of 1,800 - 6,800 which for a street driven car is a better match for that type of operation.

Also, cams for FI are designed around different parameters vs. a naturally aspirated engine. Typically FI cams would be shorter intake duration, less overlap compared to NA cam.

Chrysler for the Hellcat, changed the timing / duration / lift profiles for the SC 6.2 cam - compared to the 392 cam.
 

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I'm feeling like I should just quickly pay off my challenger and just buy a scat pack rt... I dont know why i didn't think of that before haha. Guess just the fact of getting a new car is too overwhelming.
That's if you don't intend to add power adders to the SP...if you do, then I would get a low mile hellcat. Powerwise I produce more than an SP and I invested ~41K (cost of car+SC+other mods listed in my sig). It just does not handle corners like an SP (my suspension sits 1 inch higher) nor does it stop like an SP but it sure gives me more smiles per gallon. :pa:
 

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I'm feeling like I should just quickly pay off my challenger and just buy a scat pack rt... I dont know why i didn't think of that before haha. Guess just the fact of getting a new car is too overwhelming.
The 5.7 is a tough engine and actually handles boost better than the 6.4. If you're not into hot rodding and just want a stock Scat Pack that may be the route to go though. I've had both and really like the idea of modding a 5.7 vs driving a stock 6.4. That's just me though. A stock 392 is one bada$$ engine.
 
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