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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to completely remove my calipers to paint them accurately and try to bake them, so by removing the calipers I foresee that I may need to put little to some brake fluid back, I will never buy the fluid at the local auto part store, what brake fluid do you see? Where do you get it? Or should I not make my life complicated and go buy a bottle of brake fluid at the dealer? Lol

Same thing with the coolant do I need the Mopar branded coolant or I can use a the Prestone or peak coolant brand? Or should I just head to dealer and buy a gallon of Mopar branded coolant?


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I am going to completely remove my calipers to paint them accurately and try to bake them, so by removing the calipers I foresee that I may need to put little to some brake fluid back, I will never buy the fluid at the local auto part store, what brake fluid do you see? Where do you get it? Or should I not make my life complicated and go buy a bottle of brake fluid at the dealer? Lol

Same thing with the coolant do I need the Mopar branded coolant or I can use a the Prestone or peak coolant brand? Or should I just head to dealer and buy a gallon of Mopar branded coolant?


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You should budget for a full brake fluid flush after you put the refinished calipers back on the car. My advice then would be to just buy the factory brake fluid. It works and is/should be compatible with the fluid already present so no need to worry about incompatible brake fluids. This is rarer than incompatible coolant/anti-freeze but why risk it?

Likewise while you are picking up brake fluid for your car pick up anti-freeze. Either buy the pre-mixed stuff or buy enough anti-freeze to mix it yourself. Use distilled water.
 

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Coolant: Refer to your Users Guide/ Owners manual. For my 2016 SRT engine, it says:
MOPAR Antifreeze/Engine Coolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032) 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula
or equivalent.
Mixing the wrong coolant can muck it all up, causing it to turn to a brown sludge. Never mix the purple with orange!
I stick with the Mopar coolant, can't go wrong.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should budget for a full brake fluid flush after you put the refinished calipers back on the car. My advice then would be to just buy the factory brake fluid. It works and is/should be compatible with the fluid already present so no need to worry about incompatible brake fluids. This is rarer than incompatible coolant/anti-freeze but why risk it?

Likewise while you are picking up brake fluid for your car pick up anti-freeze. Either buy the pre-mixed stuff or buy enough anti-freeze to mix it yourself. Use distilled water.
I am not to worried about doing a brake fluid flush since the car barely has 4k miles, but it’s something to consider when it gets bit more miles


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Brake fluid is not miles sensitive but time sensitive. The fluid is exposed to air -- via the vented cap on the reservoir. The fluid is hygroscopic and it is for this reason it needs periodic bleeding. That Dodge doesn't recommend this service is really a sad commentary on Dodge I think.

With my Porsche cars the factory called for 2 year brake fluid flushes. I admit while I followed this I had my doubts it as really called for. But one car with a clutch hydraulic system that shared fluid with the brake system developed a clutch and shifting issue. I suspected given the miles the clutch and possibly even the transmission was just wearing out. But the SA checked the car's service records and noted it had been 2.5 years since the last brake fluid flush/bleed. I had this done. The cost was very reasonable and I was wiling to see if a brake fluid flush helped. I figured it was worth the cost of what might prove to be an unnecessary fluid flush/bleed vs the thousand of dollars for a new clutch and a transmission rebuild.

A bit to my surprise after the brake and clutch hydraulic systems were flushed and bled the clutch problems and the shifting problems went away. Might add the braking system was apparently unaffected by this 2.5 year old fluid.

At other times I have watched the techs flush brakes and the fluid that comes out of the bleed screw and collects in the catch bottle is nasty stuff.(The times I have done a brake fluid flush this was my experience, too.)

Even in the case of a Dodge in which the brake fluid is used for just the brakes I'd still have the brakes flushed and bled every 2 to 3 years. My Hellcat is coming up on around 2.5 years old and after I get relocated later this summer I'll have this done if I don't do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brake fluid is not miles sensitive but time sensitive. The fluid is exposed to air -- via the vented cap on the reservoir. The fluid is hygroscopic and it is for this reason it needs periodic bleeding. That Dodge doesn't recommend this service is really a sad commentary on Dodge I think.

With my Porsche cars the factory called for 2 year brake fluid flushes. I admit while I followed this I had my doubts it as really called for. But one car with a clutch hydraulic system that shared fluid with the brake system developed a clutch and shifting issue. I suspected given the miles the clutch and possibly even the transmission was just wearing out. But the SA checked the car's service records and noted it had been 2.5 years since the last brake fluid flush/bleed. I had this done. The cost was very reasonable and I was wiling to see if a brake fluid flush helped. I figured it was worth the cost of what might prove to be an unnecessary fluid flush/bleed vs the thousand of dollars for a new clutch and a transmission rebuild.

A bit to my surprise after the brake and clutch hydraulic systems were flushed and bled the clutch problems and the shifting problems went away. Might add the braking system was apparently unaffected by this 2.5 year old fluid.

At other times I have watched the techs flush brakes and the fluid that comes out of the bleed screw and collects in the catch bottle is nasty stuff.(The times I have done a brake fluid flush this was my experience, too.)

Even in the case of a Dodge in which the brake fluid is used for just the brakes I'd still have the brakes flushed and bled every 2 to 3 years. My Hellcat is coming up on around 2.5 years old and after I get relocated later this summer I'll have this done if I don't do it myself.
I purchased my car in mid 2019 put on roughly 4k miles it’s not my daily so we’re about that one year mark so radiator flush, brake fluid flush that’s on my 2 year maintenance it’s something scheduled but at the time it will be taken care of


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I purchased my car in mid 2019 put on roughly 4k miles it’s not my daily so we’re about that one year mark so radiator flush, brake fluid flush that’s on my 2 year maintenance it’s something scheduled but at the time it will be taken care of


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Well, not to beat this to death but opening up the brake system to remove the calipers and have them painted to be sure any dust, dirt, grit gets removed I'd still do a full flush/bleed of the brake system. Better this than a piece of dirt ruins a piston seal or worse scores the piston or caliper bore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, not to beat this to death but opening up the brake system to remove the calipers and have them painted to be sure any dust, dirt, grit gets removed I'd still do a full flush/bleed of the brake system. Better this than a piece of dirt ruins a piston seal or worse scores the piston or caliper bore.
Keep in mind this ain’t my first rodeo whenever I unplug anything from
Hoses to lines I immediately try seal it with a plastic bag and rubber band so I can work in peace, it’s on my usual practices, And I also bleed the system periodically. as far how often to flush the brake fluid I guess we can open another thread but as far right now I am okay with bleeding the system but not doing a full flush, I am comfortable with that


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Yea it would be silly to do a brake fluid flush that early. Not necessary with 4000 miles. The proper fluids should all be listed in the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea it would be silly to do a brake fluid flush that early. Not necessary with 4000 miles. The proper fluids should all be listed in the owners manual.
I agree that a brake fluid flush at this stage is premature, however I will bleed the system but that’s pretty easy, it is listed but sometimes it’s good to ask if other performance fluids are out there, but I mentioned in my earlier comment maybe I am over thinking and I just need to go the dealer and buy a bottle of brake fluid and coolant and call it a day


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I am going to completely remove my calipers to paint them accurately and try to bake them, so by removing the calipers I foresee that I may need to put little to some brake fluid back, I will never buy the fluid at the local auto part store, what brake fluid do you see? Where do you get it? Or should I not make my life complicated and go buy a bottle of brake fluid at the dealer? Lol

Same thing with the coolant do I need the Mopar branded coolant or I can use a the Prestone or peak coolant brand? Or should I just head to dealer and buy a gallon of Mopar branded coolant?


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RX600 degrees racing brake fluid will throw you through the windshield when you put the brakes on!
 

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I am going to completely remove my calipers to paint them accurately and try to bake them, so by removing the calipers I foresee that I may need to put little to some brake fluid back, I will never buy the fluid at the local auto part store, what brake fluid do you see? Where do you get it? Or should I not make my life complicated and go buy a bottle of brake fluid at the dealer? Lol

Same thing with the coolant do I need the Mopar branded coolant or I can use a the Prestone or peak coolant brand? Or should I just head to dealer and buy a gallon of Mopar branded coolant?


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Use what the owners manual recommends only: MOPAR OAT Coolant.

Bought a jug right after I bought my SP

Product Motor oil Lubricant Fluid


As for brake fluid I got the Mopar fluid.
 

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Use what the owners manual recommends only: MOPAR OAT Coolant.

Bought a jug right after I bought my SP



View attachment 996582

As for brake fluid I got the Mopar fluid.
Who door dinged the crap out of your bottle, just below the handle?
 

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Use what the owners manual recommends only: MOPAR OAT Coolant.

Bought a jug right after I bought my SP

View attachment 996582

As for brake fluid I got the Mopar fluid.
Stock brake fluid has a boiling point of about 300°. The stock clutch slips when the stock cuts slips it causes the brake fluid to boil The brake fluid then loses its consistency and feel like your brakes are weak your clutch you have to wait for it to cool off to get your clutch backand when you step on the clutch pedal it doesn't totally disengage the clutch causing you to hang up on your gears. Even though the high temperature brake fluid EXP 600 helps the best way is just to take the stock clutch out and get her aftermarket racing clutch
 

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Stock brake fluid has a boiling point of about 300°. The stock clutch slips when the stock cuts slips it causes the brake fluid to boil The brake fluid then loses its consistency and feel like your brakes are weak your clutch you have to wait for it to cool off to get your clutch backand when you step on the clutch pedal it doesn't totally disengage the clutch causing you to hang up on your gears. Even though the high temperature brake fluid EXP 600 helps the best way is just to take the stock clutch out and get her aftermarket racing clutch
I've not experience that, I don't have a clutch, and my car has strong brakes
 

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I've not experience that, I don't have a clutch, and my car has strong brakes
If you have an automatic then your rear end is a get-trag 306.

Mine was a 391 getrag first gear did 40 miles an hour.

I put in a 306 getrag like you have with your automatic my first gear now does 60 miles an hour now.
 

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Who door dinged the crap out of your bottle, just below the handle?
Tell me more about your fuel door from Drake. Does it come in Black?
 

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