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I got a brand new 2017 R/T and I don’t see anything in the owner’s manual about the 1st oil change.
Is just telling me to follow the oil gauge – which doesn’t sound right to me.
Is there any fixed number of miles for the 1st oil change?
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellcat Widebody - Triple Nickel
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I got a brand new 2017 R/T and I don’t see anything in the owner’s manual about the 1st oil change.
Is just telling me to follow the oil gauge – which doesn’t sound right to me.
Is there any fixed number of miles for the 1st oil change?
The manual doesn't mention the 1st oil change. My dealer told me to definitely not go over 5,000 miles.....ever. I did mine at 3,000 and others have done there 1st oil change as soon as 1,000 miles.
 

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This is a point of debate for owners, I like to do the first oil change early but others say to follow the oil change message. Dodge will not advise for an early change because it would imply a defect compared to other manufacturers that make no such recommendation. So we're back to just what you want to do. I'd say about 500-800 miles with a good synthetic and then stay on schedule and you'd be good.

Maximum interval according to Dodge is 12 months or 10,000 miles whichever comes first.


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I am old school and with by 2 srt8 jeeps I have had I did all oil changes and filters at 3000 miles only because I did drag race them at the drag strip about every 3 months. Now with my Cherokee v6 I do them every 5000 miles. Oil and filters are cheap so don't go for that every 12 months or 10,000 miles.
 

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I just bought myself a 2017 Challenger RT Plus myself, I am going off of the "engine life" gauge that is built in. If for some reason that doesn't trigger before 3,000 miles, I will just go get it done then. After that you can seem to get away with 4,000+ for the next time. Your just going to burn a lot of oil in the first 3K due to the engine just settling in and lubricating itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Went to the dealer and had it replaced at 1k miles.
The service adviser was smiling at me and told me that only the people who own (not lease) are doing that, and if I plan to keep the car is a good thing to do.
 

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Apparently the 2017 RT I just bought has been sitting in the lot since last May. I'm not sure if Synthetic Oil becomes diluted over time like regular (or so I'm told since they used to recommend a change based on time or miles, whichever comes first). The car only had 50 miles on it and I'm planning on changing at 1k but I'm not sure if I should do it sooner because of the 8 month long interval.
 

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I change the oil when the "Change Oil Light" comes on. But, always before 12 months or 10,000 miles whichever comes first. I use 100% synthetic. I ordered my car from the factory, so the oil was fresh when I took delivery.

If your Challenger is new - check the label on the drivers door, and see what month the car was manufactured. I would do an oil change before 12 months from that date, if the "Change Oil Light" hasn't lit.
 

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Apparently the 2017 RT I just bought has been sitting in the lot since last May. I'm not sure if Synthetic Oil becomes diluted over time like regular (or so I'm told since they used to recommend a change based on time or miles, whichever comes first). The car only had 50 miles on it and I'm planning on changing at 1k but I'm not sure if I should do it sooner because of the 8 month long interval.
The factory fill on 3.6 and 5.7L is dino and has a one year maximum change interval, I'd still probably change it and go with a good synthetic 5W-20 and 899 filter, the dealer would probably use the small 339 filter.


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Thanks, I'll wait until the 300 mi break-in then swap out the oil for synthetic.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Unless forbidden by the owners manual my advice is to change the oil early.

New engines shed lots of trash. This is normal. Under normal operation the filter catches this trash. However, upon cold start if the oil pressure is too great and the pressure bypass valve is at the filter -- rather than at the oil pump -- unfiltered oil can be supplied to the engine. While the filter catches all the trash it doesn't hold on to it. When the engine is shut off some of the trash flows away from the filter element and at next cold engine start some of this can get carried with the oil that flows through the pressure bypass valve and is distributed throughout the engine.

Among my concerns about this is this unfiltered oil of course flows to the lifters. The zero lash feature of the lifter depends upon very tight sliding fits to operate. There is a small ball check valve which lets oil from the oil galley flow into the lifter when it is not under compression from the cam lobe and then prevents oil from flowing out when the cam lobe begins to press down on the lifter.

Dirty oil can affect the sliding fit of the zero-lash hardware or possibly interfere with the proper operation of that small but critical check valve.

Another problem is new engines experience a lot of blowby. Mainly at first start and until the rings are somewhat "seated". But blow by is forever even with an engine that is fully broken in. Might add here that lab and field tests have found "break in" continues for thousands of miles beyond the nominal break in period.

Blow by contaminates the oil with combustion products, among which is water, and this water combines with other combustion byproducts to form acidic compounds. These acids attack whatever they come in contact with. There is no concern the oil pan will get eaten through but there are a number of seals, gaskets, o-rings that can be damaged over time by acids.

The oil has an additive package that is intended to neutralize these acids and it does a pretty good job. But an engine that sees short trips really loads the oil up with contaminates and the additive package may not be up to the task. An factory advised oil change interval based on time is an admission this is a concern.

The only way to remove these acids and restore the oil additive package to full strength is to drain the old contaminated oil and replace it with fresh oil and replace the filter too.

In the case of your car it has been on the lot some months. I can assure you during this time it has experienced a number of engine starts and short run times. Thus the oil has considerable contamination and your usage of the vehicle will only add to this.

With my cars over the years I have changed the oil "early" from around 4K miles to 350 miles. In hindsight 4K miles was too long to run the oil, at least it felt like it was too long to run the oil, but the engine apparently suffered no "harm". The engine has covered 317K+ miles with no signs of any issues.

However, I would advise a 1st oil change at fewer miles. How many miles? Pick a number. The 350 mile oil change was for my JCW. This engine has some very fancy valve hardware that allows for not only variable valve timing but variable valve lift. I felt that in this case a real early oil change was called for as recognition of the sophisticated valve hardware and the critical need for good oil.

My R/T Scat Pack I let go for 1200+ miles. I actually wanted to get the oil changed earlier but allowed myself to be talked out of it by a SA that assured me the engine had been run at the factory then the oil/filter replaced so it had already had its first oil change. My research cast some doubt on what the SA claimed -- not calling him a liar -- so I then better late than never booked the car in and got the oil/filter service done.

If you want change the engine oil and filter now. If you do this yourself capture the engine oil in a *clean* oil drain pan. Dump the oil filter and its oil into another (smaller) clean oil drain pan. After a while look at the oil in both pans and see what you can see. If you see some glitter, trash, well, you will feel better about changing the oil early. If you don't see any of this consider it is what you can't see -- acidic compounds -- and feel better about changing the oil early.

On this subject I would also advise an oil change at the end of "break in". The scenario is an owner follows a good break in procedure only to then upon the end of break in assume he can thrash the engine because, well, it is broken in. As I touched upon above break in actually continues for some thousands of miles beyond the nominal break in period. While I don't have a real problem with pushing the engine harder after the end of the nominal break in period -- to continue the break in the engine needs to be pushed harder though ideally in stages -- I have a problem with this being done on dirty/contaminated oil. Thus my advice to change the oil at the end of the nominal break in period.
 

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I used the SRT filter on my R/T and now my SP.


It doesn't go to bypass as quickly, filters finer particles, and can hold more of the stuff than the standard filter. On the SP, I also gained a few more PSI.


I get mine from my dealer for about $15. If you do run your oil longer, this one will hold any extra dirt. If you don't, you'll just get better filtration, and a little extra "peace of mind"


Worth considering
 

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All I know is I got a lot of grief on this subject. I have a '15 392 SRT with just 2400 miles on it. I went ahead and had the oil and filter changed last week by the dealer. I normally don't change the oil until the oil service light comes on, but after reading what Slidd and others have said on the subject, and the owners manual, I decided to be safe than sorry when it may come down to potential engine warranty problems.
 

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For vehicles that I've purchased new, I change the oil to Full Synthetic between 1,000 and 1,500 miles and reset the monitor.

For pre-owned vehicles that I've purchased, I change the oil to Full Synthetic the first weekend that I have a free 30-45 minutes.
 

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I change it at 50% life left......or 6 months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

After that it's every 5,000 miles and/or the 50% or 6 months.
 
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