Okay, back up...Tried jumping numerous of times, but it will only crank. Also the day before it stopped starting the battery light was on, and the brand new drive belt was squeaking.
Then you have some sort of charging or wiring problem that will have to be addressed at some point. But as long as the battery is good (no bad cells, etc.) and has at least 12.6 volts, the car should start.Thanks for the reply, battery light popped on while driving and I will get back to you when I check the tensioner and belt.
Bingo!Thanks for the reply, battery light popped on while driving and I will get back to you when I check the tensioner and belt.
Yeah someone else did that recently, if the belt change preceded this, good thing to check. Why was the belt changed anyway? Was there a previous problem?Okay, back up...
When was the battery light illuminated, while the engine was running or before trying to start?
Regarding the drive belt, are you certain it was routed correctly? It’s actually easier than it should be to get one on in the wrong configuration.
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My 2010 R/T Classic had the same issue a while back. Ended up being a relay for the fuel system.Tried jumping numerous of times, but it will only crank. Also the day before it stopped starting the battery light was on, and the brand new drive belt was squeaking.
Could be timing chainTried jumping numerous of times, but it will only crank. Also the day before it stopped starting the battery light was on, and the brand new drive belt was squeaking.
Just curious: How many miles did the failed alternator have on it?Ended up being the alternator, changed it today