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Have an issue with my 2010 SRT Challenger. Problem is that my battery doesn't stay charged up after sitting 4-5 days.

It takes about 1.5 hours to get charged and stay fully charged. But, after 4-5 days, I cannot even get the doors unlocked. The battery is completely dead. When running the battery gauge inside the car, it is exactly where it should be- around 13.8V.

The battery is perfect when tested. It keeps its charge forever if not in car, but if sits for a few days it goes dead. What's weird is when plugging it back into the car, there is a pulsating sound for about 10 seconds. It goes away after. Some people around here says its normal, so looking for your input since you guys run the same cars.







Thanks
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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There’s a fuse in the rear fuse box which is supposed to be pulled for long term storage which prevents a slow discharge of the battery over time. Maybe try pulling that and seeing if the behavior remains.

If it does, look at physical connections in the electrical system as possible culprits, e.g. bad posts, terminals, grounds, etc.

If it does not, then the culprit is likely some corroded connection on an active part or sensor that is energized normally even when engine is off.

I don’t know, that’ would be my approach, for whatever that’s worth.
 

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Delete if not alloud,

Have an issue with my. Its a 2010 SRT Challenger. Problem is that my battery dosent stay charged up after sitting 4-5 days.

Battery then takes about 1.5 hours to get full charge and stay full charge for ever in not in car, but as soon as put in car after 4-5 days I cannot even get the doors unlock. Battery completly dead, When running the battery gauge inside the car is exact wher eit should be around 13.8V




Battery is perfect when tested. And keeps its charge for ever if not in car, but if sits in car for a few days goes dead. Whats weird is when plugging it back in the car there is a pulsating sound for about 10 seconds. Goes away after. Some people around here says its normal so looking for you guys input since you guys run the same cars

Thanks
Sounds like you may have parasitic draw or draining of your battery when the car is not running. My car was taking about 3 to 4 days to drain enough of the battery to prevent me from starting the car.

What you need to do is get a hold of a multimeter that can test for at least 10 Amps and perform a parasitic draw test.
I could explain it here but all you have to do is search on YouTube for "Parasitic drain test" and you'll find a load of videos that will talk you through it.

Typical amperage drain, with key off, should be under 0.05 amps, or 50 milliamps. (The vehicle should sit for 30-45 minutes after car is turned off to ensure all modules go to sleep prior to testing.) If or when you determine it's drawing excessive amperage you then must go through and determine what is causing the excessive drain. This is accomplished by removing the fuses one by one to find which circuit causes the amperage draw to reduce to an acceptable level when the fuse is removed. But again this should be covered in the videos.

In my case, I couldn't narrow it down enough as it was a circuit that provided power to the radio/system and all it's related components. The dealer determined it was the "Hands free module", which was one of the components in the Uconnect system. But it could be a short wire, device, alternator or anything, large or small.
At a minimum you should be able to determine if it is a Parasitic Draw. Finding the cause may be a bit more difficult, but you could probably find some help, as to how to find the source of the draw, on YouTube also.

EDIT: It just occurred to me that although you indicated that you were getting a reasonable charging voltage and you did allow your battery to be fully charged(however 1 1/2 Hours sounds too fast.) You should test that the battery is capable of holding an adequate charge by performing a load test on it.(This can be googled as well.) basically amounts to observing voltage drop when subjected to a full starting load. Battery sound be at least at 75% of full charge for this test.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not the alternator for sure guys. This happens when full charged and car npr running sitting a few days. Ill get someone to test the battery when its been sitting
 

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Do you have any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment installed or attached? Trinity tuner or other OBDII attached devices, USB/cell phone charger, etc?
 

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Not the alternator for sure guys. This happens when full charged and car npr running sitting a few days. Ill get someone to test the battery when its been sitting
Yes you first post made it clear that the alternator was putting out 13.8V.
And yes your first and easiest test would be to test the battery. Battery should close to fully charged when tested. No less then about 12.4V when load tested.
 

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Well the good news is yours isn't the only one that does it...is there parasitic draw issues on these cars in stock form? Sadly yes I believe so, my guess is something to do with the sound system/subwoofer not properly powering down and contributing to the draining...with that said, my advice is to not pull your hair out chaseing gremlins and just use a battery tender when you know you won't be using her for prolonged times, this way she'll fire up when ever your ready to drive it...sometimes a band-aid is cheaper in the long run as opposed to trading in an otherwise perfectly good car for one that can end up potentially having more problems then you started with. Food for thought
 

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Ok quick update.

Tonight battery was charged full put in car ran 5 minutes, card red 14.2 volts. and Battery and load tested it 30 minutes after stopping car and it was 12.4
Buddy of mine came and took negative cable out and put a test light clamp on cable and lanp conection on the negative. Light tester was on

one by one we remove every fuse in truck and under hood, light always stayed on on our tester. We removed one fuse light stayed on so reput in its spot and dis that for every one of them including the relays!

So whats my next step guys?
 

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Ok quick update.

Tonight battery was charged full put in car ran 5 minutes, card red 14.2 volts. and Battery and load tested it 30 minutes after stopping car and it was 12.4
Buddy of mine came and took negative cable out and put a test light clamp on cable and lanp conection on the negative. Light tester was on

one by one we remove every fuse in truck and under hood, light always stayed on on our tester. We removed one fuse light stayed on so reput in its spot and dis that for every one of them including the relays!

So whats my next step guys?
Not totally sure exactly what you are doing.
First off, a fully charged battery should read about 12.6 volts but may read higher immediately after charging it. This is a temporary condition and is referred to as surface charge. No need to concern yourself with this but thought I should mention it.

Sounds like the alternator was putting out 14.2 volts while charging. Sounds a bit high but may not be a problem.??

So you load tested it 30 minutes after shutting it off and the load test showed 12.4 volts? Sounds like you're not load testing it properly.

You don't test for parasitic draw with a test lamp. It sounds like you never looked into how to check it with an Amp meter.

I'd say your next step should be to have the battery load tested properly. It doesn't sound like you did it properly if you were getting a 12.4 volts.
 

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Hey, I thought this would be a good place to share, I bought my Challenger the middle of May, it sucked the life out of 3 batteries. First time it was the original mopar battery, replaced it and noticed the wonderful window problem that seems to be common. (About a minute after it's off and locked window drops down and goes back up every 5 - 7 seconds constantly until battery is dead. So I have kept the window down just past where it will do it's auto up ever since, a week later battery was dead again with window down. So a warrantied battery went in and the following weekend checked for parasitic drain, 1.8 A. Another member here posted it should be .33 .4 at most. So left my key out of range and I started taking fuses out, watching meter. The combo radio fuses got me down to .44, then I got my phone out and it was still connected to the uconnect an hour after the car was turned off. Left trunk open and set key out of range. Checked radio amperage, 1.2A so I turned car on to check how long it's "keep accessories on" was set for, it was the lowest I could set (45 seconds?) With it still being on for me to get window to right height, got out to check draw again, .5A that is my progress so far but intermittent radio not turning off is a confirmed big part of it for me.
 
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