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Discussion Starter #1
Brief history: Door handle recall performed. No issues for about 8-9 months.

Smart Glass Recall performed about 3-4 weeks ago, even though I was not having the battery dieing problem. All has been fine with that fix.

About 2 weeks ago I began getting the evic warning of Key Fob Battery Low, but everything still functioned.
Approximately a week ago the locks and seat began doing flaking things. I replaced both fob's batteries today. Now the kicker. The same issues with locks and seat remain. These were intermittent at first, but now seem to be constant. The doors do not lock automatically at speed. They do not lock/unlock with the passive system or by either of the FOB's. The locks do not operate with the interior controls, they have to be physically locked/unlocked. When using the FOB, the lights flash as though the locks are activated, but they do not lock. The system evidently thinks they are locked, since I pressed the FOB lock, lights flashed, I opened the trunk and it set off the alarm.

I decided to check fuses. I started with the power panel in the trunk, found no fuses bad. I began to re-seat everything. I pulled the 25amp circuit breaker in cavity 12 and reseated it. BUT, when I started to pull the 25amp circuit breaker from cavity 11, it was extremely hot!! Hot to the point that it will give a blister if not immediately released. I have never seen a normal circuit breaker this hot, so out of concern I put on a leather glove and pulled it. What does cavity 11 power (on a 2011 3.6)?

Help if you can, it would be appreciated. Sorry about the lengthy post, but wanted to get the details in.
 

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From the Owners Manual...

"Cavities 11, 12, and 13 contain self-resetting fuses (circuit breakers) that are only serviceable by an authorized dealer. The cluster and the driver seat switch are fused by the 25 Amp circuit breaker in cavity 11. The passenger seat switch is fused by the 25 Amp circuit breaker in cavity 12. The door modules, the driver power window switch, and the passenger power window switch are fused by the 25 Amp circuit breaker in cavity 13. If you experience temporary or permanent loss of these systems, see your authorized dealer for service."
 

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From your Owners Manual page 425. ( For more info check the Owners Manual. Dodge Website site has them online.)

* Cavities 11, 12, and 13 contain self-resetting fuses
(circuit breakers) that are only serviceable by an authorized dealer. The cluster and the driver seat switch are
fused by the 25 Amp circuit breaker in cavity 11.

You beat me to it Havoc!
 

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#11 in the trunk panel is for the instrument cluster and the drivers seat, according to the manual for a 2012.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies. The auto-resetting breakers are the same part number, and thus interchangeable, as are many of the relays in the panels. Thanks for identifying #11. Interesting, thing, I have a breaker in #11 & #12 only and #11 doesn't control any function of the cluster. As mentioned #11 was so hot that I pulled it, out of concern for possible panel melting, etc. Other point in this SST is there is no power passenger seat (other than heated). Sounds like they have wired this one slightly different. Locks and Driver Seat do not work, yet the cluster does. Since it is still under warranty, I won't chance swapping #11 & #12 on the possibility that something is frying the #11 breaker. I was hoping I would find a fuse popped, since it is 36mi to my dealer, but looks like it is time to schedule a visit.
Thanks for all for the input. Has anyone touched those breakers in #11 (particularly), #12. #11 was extremely hot even after a 20-30 minute shut down. I don't believe that can be normal at all. #12 was cool to the touch.

UPDATE: Following morning. The #11 circuit breaker was kept out over night for reason of HOT!!! melting/fire concern. This morning with the circuit breaker totally cooled I presumed it would be re-set if functioning. I took it into the garage and plugged it back in, then immediately used the FOB to check door lock functions, every function was normal. Next, I jumped in the car to check for power seat operation. The power seat failed all functions. I went to the power panel and checked the #11 breaker for heat, it was beginning to heat up and was noticeably warm++. I pulled it before it got too hot to touch.

Spoke with the dealer service writer, and have an appointment for tomorrow. He agreed with me with regard to leaving the #11 breaker pulled until then. I believe there is a short of some type in that seat that is causing an excessive current draw, causing the breaker to trip / reset / trip /reset etc. until it gets to the extreme heat build up point. I think that is why I was seeing intermittent door lock functionality. I will repost if I learn what is up with it from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stopped at the dealer today, couldn't be fit in, but set an official appointment for next week. Leaving circuit breaker out until then.

What I have found: I have fiddled with the wiring under the seat, looking for chaffed insulation. Haven't found any yet, but now the seat and locks work fine, IF I am not in the seat. As soon as I sit in the seat everything quits working, get out it works. Knowing that seat deflection is a factor should make it easier to find. I am keeping the breaker out until the problem is found, and I will be searching for the bare spot tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Power Seat and Locks fixed

It looks like precautions are taken to route, clip and tie wiring to prevent issues like this, but things happen.
This is on a 2011.

For safety, removed battery negative cable, after removing 4 seat bolts, but before unplugging elec connector.
The seat had a wire shorting to the seat frame, which was causing the auto-reset circuit breaker to get extremely hot. The wire was chafed by a seat rail bolt when the seat is in a lowered position and positioned at a certain forward/reverse position. I taped the worn area and move the wire up and away, and put vinyl caps from metal closet shelving (Lowe's) over the bolts threads.

In addition I added two tie-wraps to act as spacers on the round bar near the worm gear that controls seat cushion angle, as precautionary move. The spacers force the wire retention clip left, giving more clearance for that potential trouble spot.

I removed the seat, but had I known, this could have been done by removing the seat side panel. Remove the seat back adjusting lever, remove a Torx screw (covered by the lever), and pull out on the bottom of the panel to release it from two strong clips. I guess it depends on where the short is located.

Fig. 1 is where wire is located and chafed.
Fig. 2 Chafed wire and location of bolt that is suspected of contacting wire when seat is low position.
Fig. 3 Potential for chafing by worm gear.
Fig. 4 Spacing wire harness left by sliding clip left and adding two zip ties around rod as spacers.

IMG_4485-resized.JPG IMG_4504-resized.JPG IMG_4509-resized.JPG IMG_4510-resized.JPG
 
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