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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, I have a 2011 3.6L Challenger with 151k miles. As of March, my transmission has started to upshift very slowly through every gear. It would go up to 3000RPM before it decides to go to the next gear, then hangs at 2000-2200RPM while driving. I need to use the auto-stick to manually shift up to the proper gears. It doesn't slam or jerk into gear, it's very smooth but slow. It's never thrown a CEL, which is what's holding every mechanic back from solving this problem.

Sometimes while driving on the highway, it would drop from 5th to 4th gear at 60-65mph, and if I would upshift back to 5th with the auto-stick, it would kick down from 5th to 3rd. I would be forced to leave it in auto-stick mode at 5th gear to prevent it from dropping a gear or two. After a few minutes of driving in this mode, I would put it back into regular mode and it would hold 5th gear on its own.

After driving for approx. 30 mins or so, I've noticed the transmission just magically shifts perfectly fine on its own, as if some kind of sensor or something just warmed up and wants to allow the trans to shift properly. When I shut the engine off and turn it back on, it goes back to upshifting slowly again.

I've been to 8 dealerships in the Chicagoland area, and 3 independent transmission shops. First shop couldn't understand the problem. Second shop decided I needed to get the transmission rebuilt, so I reluctantly did so. The problem is still the exact same. Brought it back to them 3 times, and the shop has basically washed their hands of it. Third shop said the transmission is mechanically sound and it's actually a computer problem telling it to shift like this, and to bring it to a dealer for a computer reflash/reprogram.

All 8 dealerships had nothing for me. They inspected both the transmission and engine extensively, and everything is mechanically sound, but they don't have any computer upgrades for my car. I asked a few if I could just replace the computer with a new one, they all said that won't help.

So I'm at a major loss on what to do. At this point, I'm wondering if a custom tune could help overwrite the glitched computer program that's ruining my car's driveability. Can anyone please help, I just want my car to shift properly again.

I've read some things about the Banks Pedal Monster, can that fix my issue? I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but I need to fix this problem myself since no mechanics in my area can.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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If I read that correctly the trans has been rebuilt?
Does it still shift gears slowly when doing so manually?
Any other issues with how the car runs?
 

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2011 SXT
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PCM, BCM issues perhaps, torque converter perhaps? The Banks Pedal monster wont solve the issue though it will increase Throttle Response and adjust to that how ever in this case it wont be the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I read that correctly the trans has been rebuilt?
Does it still shift gears slowly when doing so manually?
Any other issues with how the car runs?
Yes it's been rebuilt, and no problems shifting manually. The car drives fine otherwise, no other issues. What do you think it could be?

PCM, BCM issues perhaps, torque converter perhaps? The Banks Pedal monster wont solve the issue though it will increase Throttle Response and adjust to that how ever in this case it wont be the fix.
What is the BCM? The torque converter and valve body were replaced during the rebuild, and all the mechanics said they're working properly. Could a custom tune from a tuning shop be the fix in your opinion?
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) You can do some searching in the Chilton Online Manual. Has the TCM ever been changed? Was a TCM Adaption ever performed? No DTCs is tough


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Good luck
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) You can do some searching in the Chilton Online Manual. Has the TCM ever been changed? Was a TCM Adaption ever performed? No DTCs is tough


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Good luck
Good Info!
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Yes it's been rebuilt, and no problems shifting manually. The car drives fine otherwise, no other issues. What do you think it could be?



What is the BCM? The torque converter and valve body were replaced during the rebuild, and all the mechanics said they're working properly. Could a custom tune from a tuning shop be the fix in your opinion?
The 2011 Challenger shouldn't have the BCM enabled. Have you ever had the battery disconnected for a long period of time?

You could try resetting the adaptives by removing the negative battery connection then the positive battery connections then touch the negative and positive cables together for a 30 seconds. Then connect the positive cable then the negative cable back to the bat. Always connect the positive first. I think A Guy has you on the right track. Not sure why the dealership wouldn't be aware of that..:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welcome to Challengertalk ;) You can do some searching in the Chilton Online Manual. Has the TCM ever been changed? Was a TCM Adaption ever performed? No DTCs is tough


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Good luck
Wow thank you so much!! This is incredible info! The TCM has not been replaced, and I don't think the TCM Adaptation has ever been performed. The most any mechanic has done with it is scan it for any stored codes, then disconnect the battery for 30+ minutes. I've pulled fuse #2 several times, for varying lengths of time (up to 1 hour) and no change. I don't know why this isn't throwing a code, it's extremely frustrating.

I forgot to include a youtube link to a video I took a few months ago. It shows the very slow shifting and how it hinders acceleration. Normally when it gets stuck in gear like this, I would shift manually to get in the correct gear. But I let the car do its own thing just for the video's sake.


The 2011 Challenger shouldn't have the BCM enabled. Have you ever had the battery disconnected for a long period of time?

You could try resetting the adaptives by removing the negative battery connection then the positive battery connections then touch the negative and positive cables together for a 30 seconds. Then connect the positive cable then the negative cable back to the bat. Always connect the positive first. I think A Guy has you on the right track. Not sure why the dealership wouldn't be aware of that..:unsure:
I have had it disconnected for 30+ minutes, and I've tried the fuse #2 pull. I'll give your method a try this morning and see if there's any change! I don't know why none of these dealers can help me. I've had two locations tell me verbatim "Well we can't do much without a code to go by. You can bring it back when it gets worse, and we'll probably be able to have a better idea of what the issue is."
Extremely frustrating.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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I have had it disconnected for 30+ minutes, and I've tried the fuse #2 pull. I'll give your method a try this morning and see if there's any change! I don't know why none of these dealers can help me. I've had two locations tell me verbatim "Well we can't do much without a code to go by. You can bring it back when it gets worse, and we'll probably be able to have a better idea of what the issue is."
Extremely frustrating.
Sounds like you have been through it so I wouldn't waste your time, I do believe it is all tied to the TCM. Still shocked that the dealership doesn't have the trouble shooting or calibration information for the TCM.
 

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Going out on a limb here, but if you can watch the accelerator pedal position sensor and throttle position sensor with a scan tool, see if they are working properly.

I had a different vehicle that was doing this and it was being caused by the throttle position sensor reading high, making the control module think that the throttle was open further than it actually was. This was on a vehicle that had a cable driven throttle..

On a Challenger things are a bit different so I suspect it's the accelerator pedal position sensor in the gas pedal or possibly the throttle position sensor in the throttle body.
Has the lightning bolt light ever came on in your dash?
And has anyone ever performed a throttle relearn on your car?

Another possibility is the coolant temp sensor or trans fluid temp sensor. There are cold tables in a lot of the transmission controllers for extreme cold conditions that delay the shifts. If the TCM thinks you're in Antarctica it might shift like you're describing until the temp comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Going out on a limb here, but if you can watch the accelerator pedal position sensor and throttle position sensor with a scan tool, see if they are working properly.

I had a different vehicle that was doing this and it was being caused by the throttle position sensor reading high, making the control module think that the throttle was open further than it actually was. This was on a vehicle that had a cable driven throttle..

On a Challenger things are a bit different so I suspect it's the accelerator pedal position sensor in the gas pedal or possibly the throttle position sensor in the throttle body.
Has the lightning bolt light ever came on in your dash?
And has anyone ever performed a throttle relearn on your car?

Another possibility is the coolant temp sensor or trans fluid temp sensor. There are cold tables in a lot of the transmission controllers for extreme cold conditions that delay the shifts. If the TCM thinks you're in Antarctica it might shift like you're describing until the temp comes up.
Thank you for this! Sorry I'm late in replying, but no I've never had a lightning bolt symbol pop up on the dash.

I had previous mechanics check the throttle position sensor and they all said it was fine.

Earlier this year, I cleaned the throttle body myself and used Seafoam in the fuel tank and intake. While a ton of white smoke came out, it didn't help the issue.

I previously used a scan tool with live data to check the throttle position %, it didn't seem to read high but I'll retest that to make sure. I'll have a mechanic check out the pedal position sensor.

I've performed a throttle relearn several times and it doesn't seem to make a difference with the problem.

I also tested cat converters for clogs (none), checked for misfires (between 1-4 counts on cylinders 2 and 6), fuel trims were normal, not too rich or lean. Battery voltage is normal.

I didn't even know about the trans fluid temp sensor! That describes my issue pretty accurately, the trans revs up and takes ages to shift until a certain point in the drive cycle, then it just drives like nothing was ever wrong.

I'll be taking my car to a shop sometime next week, I'll be sharing all of the info I've printed off of here! You guys have been a HUGE HELP! Thank you again to everybody, I'll post an update as soon as possible!
 
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