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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings, I have a 2011 Challenger SE that I purchased new in October 2011. It has 48K miles, I have done all service at Dodge dealerships, and I have a little over three years remaining on a Mopar MaxCare unlimited mileage warranty.

Last month I had my local dealership install this kit from AnzoUSA: AnzoUSA 121308 Black Clear Dual Projector Halo Headlight for Dodge Challenger - (Sold in Pairs) : Amazon.com : Automotive to upgrade my OEM (non HID) lights to Halogen. The installer asked me if I wanted the halo rings to come on with the fog lights or whenever the headlights were activated and I chose the later. About a week later both of my headlights went dark. It was during the evening so I know exactly when they went out. When I parked and shut off the engine they were working, but when I got back to my car the Halo rings came on but the headlights did not. I brought it to Dodge and they said the bulbs were too hot so the wiring harness melted. Both of the harnesses... At the exact same time...

Here is a pic of one of the harnesses. They both looked exactly the same, with the melted portion on the negative/black wire:


I contacted Anzo support and they said that the service tech was full of it. The tech I was speaking with elaborated that he also has a 2011 SE, and that he has had the same lights I was using for years without issue. They sent me out a new kit, I replaced the wiring harnesses and lamps, and the lights came back on. About 10 days later one of them went out again, but this time it was late at night. I stopped by an auto parts store and purchased a new bulb (cheap Silverstar H9 - just to be on the safe side). They didn't have any H9 wiring harnesses, so I got some simple connectors and got the light working again. Five days later the driver's side light went out, so i chipped off the melted plastic from that headlamp and replaced that harness with a connector.

All was well for about two weeks until last night when the left driver side light went out.
This is what I saw:

I replaced the connector and the light came back on.

A few observations:
  • The burned/melted area is always on the ground side, right up next to the lamp connector.
  • Climate does not appear to play a role; It was around 70 degrees and dry outside each time it happened.
  • The first couple of times this happened the car was driven for about fifteen minutes or so before I noticed the failure.
  • The latest time I was driving for over an hour (in the evening) without issue. I stopped for gas, turned on the car, and *boom* no driver's side lamp.
  • I have fog lights (OEM kit from Steve White, installed by Dodge) with Automatic lights. I always keep them in automatic mode, so the lights are always on while I am driving. I have not been using the foglights since the halo upgrade since they are drastically different colors (my next upgrade, hopefully)
  • A week before I had the halo kit installed, the alternator died. It was replaced under my MoparMaxCare warranty.
If I cannot solve this issue I will have to pay the dealership to put my OEM lights back in. That's $300 that I would prefer to spend elsewhere, and it will earn me an "I Told You So" from my Wife. I would prefer to prevent this.

If any of you have any ideas or need additional information/clarification please let me know. I would appreciate any guidance you can send my way.

Cheers,
DaJuice from Orlando, FL.
 

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What bulbs are you running? Here is what I learned going through the same research with a Jeep Wrangler: The newer Chrysler vehicles use what is basically a computer network onboard to control virtually everything. Which means the lights are run via circuitboard and not directly off the alternator and/or battery. If you use lights that are too high in wattage you can melt down the system.

This is why you may have noticed that Chrysler vehicles are shipping with shi**y H13 bulbs from the factory and weak PSX24W fog light bulbs that are about as bright as my son's bedroom night light.

You have to be really careful what you add to the electrical system on these vehicles now days. If you are using the stock bulbs in the new housings then obviously something else is wrong. But if you are using higher output bulbs I would start by switching back to factory wattage on everything and go from there.
 

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Like WX said, the issue is likely due to the wattage of the bulbs you are using.

Higher wattage bulbs = more amp draw = more heat

If you are determined to use higher wattage bulbs you can, but you'd need to replace the sockets and go up a few sizes on your headlight wiring. Or get HIDs if your local laws allow.
 
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