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One day my Challenger didn’t wanna start up by itself, so I jumped it and it ran fine. Then I turned it off and came back to turn it back on and nothing. The battery on the car is new, the check engine light is on with the abs, traction control, and esp bas light. I did the same thing jumping it and it started right up. But when I started driving the mph gauge wasn’t moving and the transmission wasn’t shifting out of first gear. Then my fan wasn’t turning on either, the fuses and relays are good, fan is brand new, there power going to the fan. Someone just help me before I throw thousands at the damn car
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) Generally that combination of lights is a wheel speed sensor. Your local auto parts store should be able to scan your car and tell you which it is (hopefully). If you can't get it to them, and have no one who can scan it, you could always change all 4 sensors. That is assuming you have the common cause

A Guy
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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One day my Challenger didn’t wanna start up by itself, so I jumped it and it ran fine. Then I turned it off and came back to turn it back on and nothing. The battery on the car is new, the check engine light is on with the abs, traction control, and esp bas light. I did the same thing jumping it and it started right up. But when I started driving the mph gauge wasn’t moving and the transmission wasn’t shifting out of first gear. Then my fan wasn’t turning on either, the fuses and relays are good, fan is brand new, there power going to the fan. Someone just help me before I throw thousands at the damn car
It sounds like there is a problem with one or both of the battery terminal connections, and/or the battery itself has gone bad.

Once the engine is running, the alternator provides the electricity necessary for the car to stay running and drive around. So if you have been driving the car after jumping it, that’s an indication your alternator is good.

Although the malfunctioning gauges and dash warning lights usually mean the car isn’t getting all the current it needs to operate properly, and that would point back to the alternator usually. Let’s come back to this one...

You said the battery is new. That means it was recently replaced. Why was it replaced, did the old one go bad?

What were it’s symptoms that showed it had gone bad?

Who did the battery install?

Check the battery cables where they connect to the battery (in the trunk next to the spare tire). Are they tight and corrosion-free?

Grab each one and try to rotate it around the post, you should be unable to do that.

There should be no corrosion at all on the posts or terminal connections. If there is, there is a problem.

If you have a multi-meter, check the resting voltage of the battery on the posts, and check the charging voltage of the alternator on the posts. They should be at least 12.6v and 13.8v respectively.

If either is lower than those values, you have a problem that will need further diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It sounds like there is a problem with one or both of the battery terminal connections, and/or the battery itself has gone bad.

Once the engine is running, the alternator provides the electricity necessary for the car to stay running and drive around. So if you have been driving the car after jumping it, that’s an indication your alternator is good.

Although the malfunctioning gauges and dash warning lights usually mean the car isn’t getting all the current it needs to operate properly, and that would point back to the alternator usually. Let’s come back to this one...

You said the battery is new. That means it was recently replaced. Why was it replaced, did the old one go bad?

What were it’s symptoms that showed it had gone bad?

Who did the battery install?

Check the battery cables where they connect to the battery (in the trunk next to the spare tire). Are they tight and corrosion-free?

Grab each one and try to rotate it around the post, you should be unable to do that.

There should be no corrosion at all on the posts or terminal connections. If there is, there is a problem.

If you have a multi-meter, check the resting voltage of the battery on the posts, and check the charging voltage of the alternator on the posts. They should be at least 12.6v and 13.8v respectively.

If either is lower than those values, you have a problem that will need further diagnosis.
So I ended up taking it to the dealer because I needed my car, but they said for the reason not starting up was because of the starter and the overheating was because of a leaking thermostat. Then I still have the problem of them not telling me yet what was the problem of the car not being able to shift out of first and mph not moving on the dash. I have a feeling it might be the wheel speed sensors
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to Challengertalk ;) Generally that combination of lights is a wheel speed sensor. Your local auto parts store should be able to scan your car and tell you which it is (hopefully). If you can't get it to them, and have no one who can scan it, you could always change all 4 sensors. That is assuming you have the common cause

A Guy
That’s what I kept reading on forums! I really hopes it’s that’s and I can just replace those. There not expensive but not something you wanna replace for no reason. I took my car to the dealer and they said the starting was a bad starter and overheating was a thermostat. We’ll see what they said about that other problem next
 
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