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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so I got a non STP RT and want to upgrade the suspension to SRT levels, can we just take 08-10 SRT parts or do I need to use 11+ because of changes made to the vehicles chassis?

Thanks!
 

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You need take-off parts from a 2011. The geometry changed on the 2011 MY which means that suspension parts from previous model years will not work.
 

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from what i heard just the upper mounting points for the front struts moved a little. the struts shocks springs are all in the same locations as all previous LX/LC cars. all struts shocks and springs look no different than an other year all have the same mounting holes , bolts nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, geometry has changed... but does that mean I CANNOT use the 2010 parts, if just mounting angles/position has changed? Anyone know for sure??? Would love to get one of those mopar kits that are out now for 08-10 SRT suspension...
 

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Hell, put the Mopar variable rate lowering springs and the Mopar sway bars on and it will handle better than the SRT. Actually the STP handles pretty darn close to the SRT. Just needs to be a little lower.
 

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Hell, put the Mopar variable rate lowering springs and the Mopar sway bars on and it will handle better than the SRT. Actually the STP handles pretty darn close to the SRT. Just needs to be a little lower.
I ordered a STP R/T 6 Speed, i went to the dealer and boy do these cars sit fairly high with the 20s, lots of wheel gap.

Any suggestions on springs to lower the car about 1 inch all the way around? The 4x4 look is gonna have to go :)

Thanks
 

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Mine sits really high too. A gap between tire and wheel well of almost like 4". I wonder if there is a difference with the classics package? Saw a 2010 the other day and i swear it sat 2 inches or so lower than my 2011 RT...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Classic package will be the same, I ended up getting 2011 SRT8 suspension on mine and dropped it 1.5".. good enough! Also handles much nicer.
 

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The R/T Classic or not with STP handles just as good if ot better than the SRT8 old and new... The rear sway bar on the R/T STP is even thicker than the SRT8s... It just rides to high...

On my Classic R/T with STP I am just going to get some lower springs from Mopar when they come out with the correct ones for the 2011... 1-1 1/2 inches should do it...

If I was starting with the standard suspension I would get the Mopar Stage II suspension and front and rear sway bars, that is what I did with my 2009 SRT8...
 

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I have the 2011 R/T with STP and have owned a few domestic performance vehicles in my life ('89 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe, '98 Ford Contour SVT, 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Daytona 500 Edition, 2007 Dodge Charger R/T) and this car is no comparison in handling. Now I cannot compare to the SRT8's but I would assume it would have a better suspension but for the average public road driver, I cannot imagine wanting/needing more IMHO!?!?!?

I think unless you want to pay another $10G for the SRT8 take the R/T STP, add strut tower brace(s) and maybe a larger sway bar and you will have a ride just as good as the SRT8.

Now this is a bit biased because I'm very happy with my 2011 R/T and have it seems like there are fewer R/T's sold than SRT8's. Kinda like the uniqueness with the addition of $10G's in my pocket. But don't get me wrong, I admire each of the SRT8's out there! =)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hah, yeah that's basically what I did, I found a new 2011 RT Classic with all the options I wanted except the STP, and replaced the suspension with SRT8 OEM components as well as upgraded the sway bars.

HOWEVER, I would say it has not been without problems!!! *every* thing I've had done with the car has been screwed up and has to be corrected...

  1. Bought SRT8 suspension from takeoffautoparts and they did not include pressed on front struts spacers so I needed to buy a set.
  2. Took car to Stack Performance for new sway bars/SRT8 Suspension and they forgot to torque all 4 wheels (30 lb/ft!!!) after they were done working on the car (realized this at my house WEEKS later).
  3. Bought lockpik system for touchscreen nav/music player and had to be get replacement (defective unit)
  4. Purchased rims through discount tire and they ordered one with the wrong offset but didn't realize it until they mounted the tires (had to come back for replacement)
  5. Just took in for alignment and they aligned to 2010 specs (AFTER I told them it is a 2011 and the specs are going to be different), so I need to go back again...
So what I have learned... probably should have just saved for the 392 and left the engineering to the professionals at Dodge whenever possible.


I have the 2011 R/T with STP and have owned a few domestic performance vehicles in my life ('89 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe, '98 Ford Contour SVT, 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Daytona 500 Edition, 2007 Dodge Charger R/T) and this car is no comparison in handling. Now I cannot compare to the SRT8's but I would assume it would have a better suspension but for the average public road driver, I cannot imagine wanting/needing more IMHO!?!?!?

I think unless you want to pay another $10G for the SRT8 take the R/T STP, add strut tower brace(s) and maybe a larger sway bar and you will have a ride just as good as the SRT8.

Now this is a bit biased because I'm very happy with my 2011 R/T and have it seems like there are fewer R/T's sold than SRT8's. Kinda like the uniqueness with the addition of $10G's in my pocket. But don't get me wrong, I admire each of the SRT8's out there! =)
 
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