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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I really need your advice and feedback. I just bought my SE in mid July and I really hate to say it but it's not cutting it for me. I had a Nissan Altima coupe with 170 hp and 250 hp on the SE seems some what slower. It's definitely a lot less agile. I tried passing someone today as they were turning and I swear, my SE didn't wanna move! This incident just made up my mind, I'm gonna trade it in! I had a couple things in mind, do what some have done and thats a trade in for an RT. I thought about it, its gonna be my daily driver so gas is gonna be a killer. I also was inquiring about going to a whole different car I'm strongly considering a Camaro. My last choice would be trading in for the 2011 SE with 55 more hp and more torque. What do you guys think?
 

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do the trade for a R/t minimum. If a Nissan Altima is going to roast you... and it bothers you..like it would bother me (this is a muscle car? huh?). get rid of it.
 

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i drove an sxt 3.5 charger and was very impressed with its performance and it was a rental. I think you are more concerned with being a big dog than the poor performance of your challenger. Unless you race it it has more than adequate power for your day to day driving and passing in a turn is reckless even if you had a 600 hp supercharged r/t
 

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Having a 2010 SE for less than 6 months and wanting to trade it in on a 55HP more SE is going to really cost you a pretty penny. The depreciation on a 6 month old car is gonna kill you no matter what you trade it in on. You would be able to cut the losses down if you tried to sell it yourself though.
 

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You'll have to work hard not to lose too much on the trade. But, if you started now, and looked at 2010's, you might get a good deal that will take the sting outta the loss somewhat. Selling it yourself may help, but if you look at private party sales, nothing is moving. If you offer a screamer deal you might get a taker, but there's lots of used challengers out there, and no one is biting.

As far as gas mileage.. there's really not much difference. R/T is only rated at 1MPG less on the highway, and same (or perhaps one less) in city. Depends on how you drive of course.. since you're concerned about power, you probably will get high 14's low 15's around town.. I keep my foot in it pretty much and I get 15's around town in my R/T.

Mike
 

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I know what you feel since I also own a 2010 SE.... BUT.... I can tell you what's happening. You're fighting the transmission programing. The computer wants to keep the revs below 2300 rpm all of the time for max gas mileage. If you ease into the throttle as you're making a pass.... you got nothin'. I got my car on Memorial Day weekend and I'm finally seeing what it's capable of. I've put an SRT dual exhaust on it and that's all. This past weekend, I got into a slow poke line of cars on a perfectly straight two lane road with clear vision at least a mile ahead. Five cars ahead of me were all doing 55 mph. I signaled to pass... pulled out and stomped on the pedal. That bee-yotch downshifted two gears, squatted and took off like a rocket! I couldn't believe it was the same car. All I could do was hold on and glance at the tach needle when it bumped up several times to 6500 rpm. It never dropped below 3500 rpm during shifting. By the time I'd passed the last car, my son in the backseat yelled "Dad! We're over a hundred!" Sure enough, the speedo was pushing past 105 and still going up in sync with the tach needle. Needless to say, after I pulled back in, I slowed down to a reasonable speed. The whole thing couldn't have been more that 7 seconds. It convinced me (finally) I didn't really need a Hemi. The car was rock steady the whole time. There was NO sensation of crossing the century mark. So, I'd say to get the best out of your SE, keep it but keep the revs above 3000 when passing. Put the hammer down. Don't be shy. This car is an Autobahn Burner. (And I know because I lived in Germany for five years).

Greg
 

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I would much rather have a 3.5 Challenger as a daily driver than a Camaro SS. The time the Camaro is going to be more fun is when you are running it hard, the rest of the time you have uncomfortable seats, an awkward steering wheel, and poor visibility in ALL directions. People quickly tire of the Camaro driving experience. I would take a new Mustang V6 long before the Camaro. The Mustang won't be as comfortable as the Challenger, but it will have the best visibility out the back and is a strong performer with the new V6.

There is no painless way to trade a 6 month old car. Give the 3.6 a try when they hit the lots. Also, keep your eyes open for a good deal on a used 2010 R/T, as it sounds like you are happy with the Challenger and simply want more power.
 

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I'd probably say hold off until you can try out a '11 SE and see if that will meet your expectations...if that doesn't then look around for something else that may have the performance you're interested in.

Keep in mind the Altima is a lighter car than the Challenger. Even the 3.5 V6 Altima is about 400# lighter than the SE Challenger, for comparison.
 

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I suggest either trying to find a used R/T or a new R/T F package. A new 2010 F package w/o any options should run about 28K + OR - 500.00 after normal rebates and discount.
 

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I suggest either trying to find a used R/T or a new R/T F package. A new 2010 F package w/o any options should run about 28K + OR - 500.00 after normal rebates and discount.

I went from a 3.5L Charger to a 5.7L Challenger, and have modded both. The truth is the 3.5L delivers 170 hp to the rear wheels and the 5.7L delivers 330. For me city mpg is identical and the 5.7L looses 1 mpg for nearly double the hp.

Truth is it takes 3000-3500 rpm with the 3.5L for me to feal like the car is moving, but with the 5.7L 2000 rpm moves it qute nicley. For a daily driver non hot rodding granny driving person the 5.7L is a better way to go because it doesnt need to work as hard to move the car at a usable pace. If I get excited and want to go faster than the average driver 2500-3000 rpm easly passes the average person on the streed, where as it takes full throttle with the 3.5L

I made the jump and with employee pricing my payment jumpe from under 300 to over 600, but thats because I got a stripped SE and went to a loaded r/t.

If you can sell the SE person to person, perhapts for what you owe, and wash your hands of it and come out clean, then you could try getting a very low milage R/T for only slightly more.

I have seen 2010 V8 camaros and challengers months after they were sellign, and hard to get but on used lots. I am sure if you can find someone who is willing to take a huge hit on an r/t they would sell it to you for a little more but much less than the dealership.

If you catch both right, you might find a used r/t for about what you paid for the SE. They offered me 12k for my SE with 12k miles and less than one year old. so I would gues the same happens for the r/t
 

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I have not had any issues with performance with the 3.5L as a daily driver. My car will pop from 65 to 80 to make a pass no sweat.
 

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I feel your pain bro, I was in the same boat last year. I bit the bullet and traded my 09' SE in for a 10' R/T. First off, DO NOT expect dealerships to offer the same amount in trade in for your SE that Kelley's Blue Book or any other site suggests, because car dealerships WILL NOT give you that much! Luckily my R/T was going for $28,700 (pretty much a base R/T, but with 20" chrome wheels).

My SE had tint, spoiler, gas cap, lowering springs, CAI and a dual exhaust. I lost all of that in trade-in, but personally I'm glad I did it. My payments are around $50 more. I'll be able to add my mods this spring hopefully.

If you don't think your SE fits your style now, you'll still feel the same way 2-3 years from now. As long as your budget can afford it, I say get'r done!

Be willing though to walk out of a couple of dealerships dissapointed. Most salesmen will just bend you over the table and take your manhood if you let them! I walked out of 2 or 3 before finding a dealership 2 hours away from me.

Good luck!
 

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Maybe the problem is with the driver. 3000 to 5000 rpm is where the Challenger SE comes alive. Keep it in that range with the Autostick and it is definitely a quick car. MPG goes down quite a bit though. Also between 2000 and 3000 rpm don't punch it, ease on the throttle until it starts to pick up steam then give it full throttle. Once you get to 3000 it's on the pipe. I recommend the throttle calibration also.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I'm confused....Dragon Ninja, on 11/18 weren't you talking about buying a 2010 rather than wait for the 2011? http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f38/question-47603/ Now you already have a 2010? Were you going to get a second?

LOL!! I know I was rambling a lil bit but you sir have gotten a few things mixed up.. Let me clarify for you; I got my SE mid July, I was not aware of a 2011 with 55 more hp so all I was stating in the previous thread was the price difference. You know factoring the low rate of 1.9% the 11 being 1500 more etc....That's all. Now I'm gonna get straight to the point, not happy with speed overall and would like to trade in..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is to everyone on here that has responded to my threads, pm with info.

Thank You!!

I'm really new to this website this is my FIRST American car and first rear wheel drive car and so far everyone has been extremely helpful. My friends make fun of me for driving a Dodge but oh well I wanted to try something new so I bought one and the hell with them!
 

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Well if you're 1. not happy with the SE 2. willing to take a huge bath on trade in 3. fairly sure you can find a good deal on a 10 R/T and 4. can swing the increase in payment, gas (admit it you'll have your foot in a HEMI plenty), and insurance increase...

Why not go for it...
 
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