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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did some research on the 2011 airbox today. It will not be a direct bolt in as the lower opening
between the 09 and the 11 are not the same. Some cutting on the inner fender will be required.
These measurements are aprox but close
Filter size 2011 100 sq inches
2009 83.3 sq inches
This is not the surface area of the of the filter element only of the outside dimensions.
The opening in the bottom of the 2011 is not a round hole and I don’t
think it will totally line up with the 2009 hole.It is sealed to the inner fender
with no opening to the engine compartment.
The 2011 hole is aprox 15 sq inches
The 2009 is 15.9 sq inches.
The 2011 cover is taller then the 2009.
Currently K&N doesn’t offer an element for the 2011
I won’t be dynoing this setup but it should be good for something.
I’ll post later after the install.
 

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thanks for sharing...i am wondering how much sealing to that hole benefits the intake system. mulling over ideas in my head on how i can make my 09 airbox similar...
 

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Put an 6.1 SRT airbox on it and fogetaboutit. Same difference.
 

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The "sealing to the fender hole" bit is one of the first things I did. It is one of *many* factors that help to stave off heatsoak on extended drives just a little longer. Though it seems to work a little too well whilst traversing very cold climates. ;) Those are one of those times you wish modern engines still had that vacuum-operated hot-air bypass valve thingies from the old days.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #6
So in order to make it so you get more cold air in the engine compartment you're talking about physically modifying the fender on the vehicle?!
It's really the inner fender.There is already a hole there for the 08-10 airbox.The 11 airbox has a different shaped hole.I'm still debating if I want to cut the car, mod the airbox or just leave it alone.
 

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It's really the inner fender.There is already a hole there for the 08-10 airbox.The 11 airbox has a different shaped hole.I'm still debating if I want to cut the car, mod the airbox or just leave it alone.
My understanding is that you'll also have to relocate the power steering pump reservoir in order to get the new air box to fit. There was some discussion about getting the new power steering pump to replace the old one. Also might have to look at getting a new radiator fluid reservoir.
 

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The colder the air, or the colder the gas, the gas molecules will be smaller.

Means you can stuff more gas into your cylinder for a bigger explosion.

Use to do this on my 1/4 mile car years ago. Heat manifold block offs, cool can stuffed with dry ice, and as cold as I could air intake position.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My understanding is that you'll also have to relocate the power steering pump reservoir in order to get the new air box to fit. There was some discussion about getting the new power steering pump to replace the old one. Also might have to look at getting a new radiator fluid reservoir.
The rain stopped and I got to look under the hood.Yes the pump reservoir would need to be relocated.The radiator reservoir would need to be changed.I'm not sure I really want to do this.
 

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Can you actually quantitatively define the metrics you'd expect to increase on a 2010 SRT8 or even better a 2011 SRT8?
No I couldn't. FI ECM cars are a different animal. It was a mod that was used when you ran in a restricted class where you were limited to what you could do.

The science is the same though. That's why the cold air set-up.

It's also another reason that I'm not 100% sold on the CAI systems. Even though the airflow is less restrictive, it has to be really well sealed or repositioned not to suck in some of the heat from the engine bay if possible. Just my personal opinion. I just run a K&N drop in filter into the stock SRT air box.
 
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