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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I know theres a few other threads on doing the LED swap but I figured another one for 2012's couldn't hurt. I ordered everything from superbrightleds.com for about 25$ and they were delivered within 3 days without any issues. Installation was very simple so if you have any questions feel free to ask. I would put up more pics but my profile seems to only let me upload 5 pics total...?

I ordered two of these in "cool white" (map lights)
578 LED Bulb - 9 LED Festoon | Festoon Base Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

One of these in "cool white" (trunk light)
561 LED Bulb - 9 SMD LED Festoon | Festoon Base Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

And one of these in "natural white" (plate light)
194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base | Miniature Wedge Base LEDs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

This is a comparison pic
 

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Can you post a pic of the before/after of the plate light?
 

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Yeah, I didn't like the weak and yellowish stock interior lighting at all (I can't see the exterior lights so I don't care). I went with LEDs (including vanity lights) in cool white from the same source and it kicks ass. I mean I can see stuff. :yesnod:
 
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Is there an LED that will work in the small rear seat dome lights?
 

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Was this easy to do?? I have been wanting to swap mine

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Was this easy to do?? I have been wanting to swap mine.
This thread was my guide: http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f39/led-replacements-map-trunk-license-plate-lights-42944/
It's a snap as long as you ordered the right bulbs. And LEDs run cooler so you don't need the metal shields = more light.
Is there an LED that will work in the small rear seat dome lights?
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f39/my-solution-ugly-yellow-spot-lights-84562/
Now those are a biotch and I personally didn't touch them. I never have anyone back there and I'd rather not mess with the headliner, but maybe one day. I just wanted to be able to actually read a map or find my keys on the floor! The mix of white and yellow lighting is a bit weird, though, but the front ones really light up the cabin so I don't care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can you post a pic of the before/after of the plate light?
unfortunately my profile wont let me upload any more pictures but the plate light is definitly an improvement over stock....i personally just like the color of the LED's much more.

And I would love to do something about the little round ceiling lights above my head but when i took the cover off it looks like a circuit board with possibly an LED so it didnt seem like it would be an easy swap to do without putting some thought into it. But otherwise this couldn't have been any easier, it took me 10 minutes (not even an exaggeration)
 

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I ordered the trunk, plate and map lights, i'll just learn to ignore those nasty yellow rear lights. Next step is to replace the H10 fogs, looks like CarID has those on sale right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ordered the trunk, plate and map lights, i'll just learn to ignore those nasty yellow rear lights. Next step is to replace the H10 fogs, looks like CarID has those on sale right now.
What are you gonna do the fogs with? LED or HID? And i may just find a way to disconnect or cover up the stupid little yellow lights....they serve no purpose for me because i have my seat maxed out backwards and nobody sits in the back so i dont need them at all.
 

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So I know theres a few other threads on doing the LED swap but I figured another one for 2012's couldn't hurt. I ordered everything from superbrightleds.com for about 25$ and they were delivered within 3 days without any issues. Installation was very simple so if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Thanks for posting the bulb info. I too disliked the yellow look of the stock bulbs so went ahead and ordered the same bulbs you listed. I'm very satisfied at the result!

Just one quirk that I'm wondering if anyone else has had. My car is stored for the winter in my garge with a battery tender attached to keep the battery charged up. When I tried the rear plate light and trunk light, the LED bulbs worked great. After installing the maplight bulbs, I pressed the lens to turn them on and.... Nothing? I thought I'd somehow wrecked both switches in the process or had two dud bulbs...

When I opened the door to grab a flashlight for a closer look, both lights turned on, so the bulbs are good. I found it implausible that I could have damaged both switches so took a really close look at everything. That's when I noticed that with the switch on, the bulbs were lit - just extremely dimly (My garage being on the darkside was the only reason I was able to see this). I decided to open up the garage door and start the car. With the car running, they work fine.

I measure 12.8V on the battery with the engine off and 14.5V with it running, so it seems as the lower storage voltage is the reason. I know that LED's require a certain voltage to work and I've seen this before on a friends LED third brake light that would only work with the engine running.

Just seems odd that even with the car not running, they work properly when the door opens, but not with the switch...

Just wondering if anyone else has seen this?
 

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I did the same upgrade as the OP did but went a couple of steps further. I also replaced the dim yellowish bulbs in the vanity mirrors (big improvement), the foot well lights-so now you can actually see what's on the floor. For the trunk, instead of just replacing the bulb in the trunk (which still won't be bright enough), I used a two foot long LED strip. It has adhesive backing so I stuck it to the bottom of the rear parcel shelf, then tapped the wire into the harness that powers the trunk lamp.
 

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If changing overhead map lights to LEDs make sure they're CanBus type (12v load units).

They should look like this with cooling fins on back for the voltage resistor:


Standard LEDs (less than 12v load) will not behave correctly using the touch switch due to computer controlled activation.

For those wanting a different color; found some on fleabay in blue, 41mm CanBus LEDs for $9.99 w/free shipping.

2x Blue Error Free LED Bulbs 41mm 578 Festoon Dome Map Cargo Trunk Light
2X Blue Error Free LED Bulbs 41mm 578 Festoon Dome Map Cargo Trunk Light | eBay



I tapped into the trunk 'hook festoon light' removed it and added two (2) 24 SMD lights (stick on type). One set on either side of the quarter panels. So now when the trunk is opened at night it really lights up. FocalPrice - 24 SMD 6060 LED Car Dome Light Bulb (White) ER0328W - $5.59 - Affordable Car LED Lights
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I do really like the idea of putting led strips in the trunk because the stock design is horrible. It would almost be brighter if dodge just put a little candle in the middle of the floor or something
 

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If changing overhead map lights to LEDs make sure they're CanBus type (12v load units).

They should look like this with cooling fins on back for the voltage resistor:


Standard LEDs (less than 12v load) will not behave correctly using the touch switch due to computer controlled activation.
Thanks for the heads up. I ordered and received the 4410-W1-CB (canbus) bulbs. They now work perfectly - even via their switch and even when the car isn't running. I lucked out and the previous 4410-CW9 fit the soundbar lights in my 04 Rubicon so that's where they went.

They seem just as bright despite only having one LED element - instead of 9 like the non canbus. One thing I had to do was to bend the socket tabs slightly further apart - with respect to each other - to ensure they weren't short circuited by the aluminum heatsink on the bulb. Also, the back reflector seemed to interfere with the proper seating of the bulb (due to the heatsink) - well actually the 3 plastic pins that are used to hold the reflector in place, so I removed the reflector and the pins. The single LED bulb shines directly downward, so the reflector isn't needed. I left the light on for about 5 minutes and the heatsink never got hot enough to cause me any concern with having removed the reflector. As well, i left off the metal shield that was originally installed between the bulb and the plastic bezel.

They now look great and work exactly as they're supposed to :D
 
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I started with the 4410-CW9, and had an opposite issue, my lights worked just fine with the switch and with the instrument panel dimmer, however they would not come on when I opened the door. I switched over to the 4410-W1-CB (with the heatsink), and have the exact same problem. Both times I ordered from superbrightleds.com. What gives?
 

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Well, Superbrightleds.com tech support is telling me that I need to attach a 670 ohm, .5 watt resistor to either the bulb or the socket, and the dimming will go away on the 4410-CW9 bulb. If this is the case, then why bother selling the CANBUS-specific bulb?
 

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Well, Superbrightleds.com tech support is telling me that I need to attach a 670 ohm, .5 watt resistor to either the bulb or the socket, and the dimming will go away on the 4410-CW9 bulb. If this is the case, then why bother selling the CANBUS-specific bulb?
That's strange as I was under the impression that the Canbus bulb has the required load circuitry built in to draw the extra current to keep the car's monitoring system happy...

You mentioned that you also had issues when you tried their canbus version (4410-W1-CB). Did they give you any reason why it didn't work properly?
 

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Yeah, I asked about the CANBUS compatible bulb, this is what I got back:


"The extra resistance in a CANBus bulb puts enough load so the computer in the car knows that there is a bulb in place and is functional. With that being said, there may still be the issue of voltage leak happening due to the small power required to operate the light."

So if I want these to work properly, I need to lose the CANBUS compatible bulbs and add the resistors to the 4410-CW9 bulb. This information would have been a lot more useful before I placed the second order for a bulb that was supposed to work with this system.
 
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