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Yeah, I asked about the CANBUS compatible bulb, this is what I got back:


"The extra resistance in a CANBus bulb puts enough load so the computer in the car knows that there is a bulb in place and is functional. With that being said, there may still be the issue of voltage leak happening due to the small power required to operate the light."

So if I want these to work properly, I need to lose the CANBUS compatible bulbs and add the resistors to the 4410-CW9 bulb. This information would have been a lot more useful before I placed the second order for a bulb that was supposed to work with this system.
Mine's a '12 SRT, and the CANBUS bulbs fixed the problem for me... Can't tell from your post what Year / Model you have. Maybe a slight change to the electronics or wiring ?

I have my car on a Battery Tender (winter storage) and I just checked a few measurements. The battery voltage is sitting at 12.9 V. I measured the stock map light with my Fluke - just using the battery in the rear (didn't want to pry out the bezels again as I didn't want another chance to break something...) and it drew 795 mA. I borrowed the 4410-CW9 bulb from my Jeep and put it across the Challenger battery. It drew 37 mA. A 680 ohm resistor will draw 19 mA at the same 12.9V. Add that to the 37 for the LED bulb and your draw would be 56 mA for the LED bulb with resistor in parallel.

Still more than an order of magnitude difference from the draw of the stock bulb, but maybe just enough to get things working. Definitely worth a shot...

Best of luck ! Hope it all works out... Keep us posted.
 

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Yeah, I asked about the CANBUS compatible bulb, this is what I got back:


"The extra resistance in a CANBus bulb puts enough load so the computer in the car knows that there is a bulb in place and is functional. With that being said, there may still be the issue of voltage leak happening due to the small power required to operate the light."

So if I want these to work properly, I need to lose the CANBUS compatible bulbs and add the resistors to the 4410-CW9 bulb. This information would have been a lot more useful before I placed the second order for a bulb that was supposed to work with this system.

======================================================

I guess the canbus leds at Superbrightleds.com don't have enough draw (or Dodge changed the threshold voltage) to keep the electronics satisfied as research shown by Hydroid member. Sorry to hear the problems encountered but other members can learn from this experience. What year is your Challenger?

The blue canbus leds I got off of fleabay came with 4 large SMDs instead of one small one. No issues so far on a 2009 R/T. 2X Blue Error Free LED Bulbs 41mm 578 Festoon Dome Map Cargo Trunk Light | eBay

 

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Mine is a 2012 RT.
I'll check Radio Shack for the resistors and try that. I have some left over from when I was rebuilding GM gauge clusters but I don't remember what they are.
 

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Mine is a 2012 RT.
I'll check Radio Shack for the resistors and try that. I have some left over from when I was rebuilding GM gauge clusters but I don't remember what they are.
Bizarre, same year, just different model. You'd think if it worked for mine it would work for yours too...

I meant to mention in my last post that the resistor size they quoted you (670 ohm) is not a standard value. Standard values in that range are 620, 680 and 750 ohms. I checked my parts bin (electronics is a hobby) and I have one 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. If RS doesn't have them and you want to try it before you have to order a few, just PM me your address and I'll drop it in the mail to you. That way you can try it out before you buy any parts...
 

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Bizarre, same year, just different model. You'd think if it worked for mine it would work for yours too...
Thanks, I do appreciate the offer. Radio Shack has the 680 ohm, I had a few here myself but none of them was correct. I think the issue here lies more within these Chinese LED's, I am just irritated that the non-CANBUS bulb still works better than the one intended for this system.
 

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Did anyone need to remove the heat shield / reflector from the back side of the light?
Not the one that you need to take off to get to the OEM light.
I have the Orical 8 led lights with the heat sink and it does not want to seat
in the holder all the way. Seems to be hitting a lil plastic glob holding the shield in place
 

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if you are talking the map light yes you have to remove the metal shield.
 
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Did anyone need to remove the heat shield / reflector from the back side of the light?
Not the one that you need to take off to get to the OEM light.
I have the Orical 8 led lights with the heat sink and it does not want to seat
in the holder all the way. Seems to be hitting a lil plastic glob holding the shield in place
Yes, when I installed the canbus bulbs, the plastic pins holding the reflector in place were preventing the bulb from seating properly. As the canbus bulbs work fine in my car, and I'm NEVER going back to stock bulbs, I used a pair of diagonal cutters and cut the three pins holding the plasticized reflector in place and discarded the reflector. I also left the metal heat-shield out when I put the plastic cover back on....

I also had to bend the car's bulb terminals a little so they were slightly further apart to ensure the bulb's heatsink didn't short out the bulb. A few weeks now and they are working great! Way better than the stock bulbs...
 
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Ok, I finally got around to picking up the 680 ohm resistors, soldered one to each bulb (CANBUS and non), neither fixed my issue. Soldering the resistor to either bulb only made the bulb stay on full bright after the doors were closed, previously my non-CANBUS bulb would shut down to a very dim state when the rear lights shut off, but it would not turn completely off. So I have reinstalled the non-CANBUS led's, at least they work when I use the button, but that's the only time they act normally.

I added non-CANBUS bulbs to the interior of my GXP, they all act as they should, go figure.
 

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Now Superbrightleds.com is telling me to use a 470 ohm resistor. Ugh.
 

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Hmmmm? so, map lights, who's upgrade worked? hate those sickly yellows. Was considering mixing the colors as well, red driver, bright white passenger. Red for illumination with out loosing night vision/ white for when she drops an ear ring.
 

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Oh! I'm 13 R/TC with HIDs, boy! they really look yellow now!
 
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