Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
At 10000 miles my cars steering wheel was shaking when I was braking.
I took the car in and the rotors were warped so dodge replaced them under warrantee
Now 11000 miles later they feel warped again.
Anyone experience the same problem?
I'm looking at buying different rotors/ brakes now that dodge prob won't replace them
Anybody running an upgraded set up? Any recos?
 

·
Registered
2016 Challenger Hellcat
Joined
·
364 Posts
No sorry -- have not experienced any problems with my Brembo rotor`s or pad`s on my 2008 Super Bee (traded in at 28,000 miles) or my current 2012 Challenger at 16,000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
My Brembo rotors warped around 15,000. They were replaced under warranty. Now they are starting to shimmy again. I have braked a lot harder in my Ram truck carrying loads and those rotors didn't warp. I can only speculate that I ran through a car was when they were hot. The dealer couldn't offer any explanation.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Challenger SRT8
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
i have used the stock brembo rotors for 2 years on track for 2 seasons and put them through all sorts of racing pads, and temperature where i made the calipers turn burgundy from the stock red and the rotors became blue after extreme temperature reach;

they do not warp if you do the right thing;

meaning first of all torque in the standard pattern from 50 lbs/ft to 75, then to 100; you can do the stock 110 recommended but I choose not too; then the chance of warping that rotor is almost none at this point

my last track session of the season at NJMP Thunderbolt i had to literally come off the track after 2 laps as i re-torqued the wheels before the session and created so much vibration under braking under >120 mph i think i left a brown stain in my pants... i really thought i had broken a suspension link or something

then just to learn that torquing wheels not in the proper pattern wheel create massive rotor warped like vibrations

i swapped back to my stock rims to go home, torqued the correct way all was well; later my mechanic explained to me that it did happen on his track car Pontiac GTO as well; he recommended the above torquing process....if you are patient....

another point is that racing pads do leave a sticky compound (carbotech -xp10, xp20-, not ECB Yellow in my experience) during the bedding process which allows for extreme torque under hard breaking conditions;

it did happen where i messed up the bedding process and left compound deposits not uniformly on the rotor which is very easy to see; in these conditions you wheel have warped rotor like vibrations as well

in this case you can attempt to redo the bedding process which is not a 100% success story guaranteed; or you can steel wool all 4 rotors until all deposit is removed, torque properly and then redo the bedding process

the rear rotor has the hand brake protective plate so it is a PITA to brush them; you can take them all off if you feel like taking off the calipers at all 4 corners....lol, ya i see u face now

the brembo stock pad is pretty soft and still a street pad but it performs very well on occasional track days for an entire day; typically it does not need a bedding process; it kind of happens in the first 100 miles of the car's life when you drive out the dealer; then it's all fun from there

ODP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I just replaced my rotors and pads using drilled and slotted from Rotor Pros so far they have been great very smooth compared to the braking i had with the stocks. its an SRT8 with only 21k miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
i have used the stock brembo rotors for 2 years on track for 2 seasons and put them through all sorts of racing pads, and temperature where i made the calipers turn burgundy from the stock red and the rotors became blue after extreme temperature reach;

they do not warp if you do the right thing;

meaning first of all torque in the standard pattern from 50 lbs/ft to 75, then to 100; you can do the stock 110 recommended but I choose not too; then the chance of warping that rotor is almost none at this point

my last track session of the season at NJMP Thunderbolt i had to literally come off the track after 2 laps as i re-torqued the wheels before the session and created so much vibration under braking under >120 mph i think i left a brown stain in my pants... i really thought i had broken a suspension link or something

then just to learn that torquing wheels not in the proper pattern wheel create massive rotor warped like vibrations

i swapped back to my stock rims to go home, torqued the correct way all was well; later my mechanic explained to me that it did happen on his track car Pontiac GTO as well; he recommended the above torquing process....if you are patient....

another point is that racing pads do leave a sticky compound (carbotech -xp10, xp20-, not ECB Yellow in my experience) during the bedding process which allows for extreme torque under hard breaking conditions;

it did happen where i messed up the bedding process and left compound deposits not uniformly on the rotor which is very easy to see; in these conditions you wheel have warped rotor like vibrations as well

in this case you can attempt to redo the bedding process which is not a 100% success story guaranteed; or you can steel wool all 4 rotors until all deposit is removed, torque properly and then redo the bedding process

the rear rotor has the hand brake protective plate so it is a PITA to brush them; you can take them all off if you feel like taking off the calipers at all 4 corners....lol, ya i see u face now

the brembo stock pad is pretty soft and still a street pad but it performs very well on occasional track days for an entire day; typically it does not need a bedding process; it kind of happens in the first 100 miles of the car's life when you drive out the dealer; then it's all fun from there

ODP

great tips thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
324 Posts
One little trick I've learned from the forums has allowed me to run 40k kilometers on OEM rotors and pads with no end in sight for replacements. I think I might get over 50k in the current set.
The comments by O_Racing gives you a hint where he talks about deposition of pad material on the rotor face. This is the leading cause of the "warped" feeling you get from a rotor and re-bedding sometimes fixes the problem. But why not avoid the problem in the first place?
For a daily driver, the problem is hauling down a 4200 lb car from highway to a dead stop. The pads are hot, the rotor is hot and they are both clamped together for a couple of minutes at that first stop sign. Pad material will transfer to the rotor and the insulating action of the pad stops that particular area of the rotor from cooling down at the same rate as the rest of the rotor. Good recipe for a deposition spot and the start of a warp spot.
Solution? Give yourself some room at that traffic light so that you can inch forward a move the pad to another area of the rotor. No material transfer and more uniform cooling.
This doesn't cost a dime and requires zero wrenching. What do you have to loose?
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Challenger SRT8
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
Indeed deposit does happen when u leave your foot in and that pad has all that time to soak in the rotor make the deposit and here is the vibration

for me it never happened on the street because i don't brake hard enough often enough in a short amount of time for this to happen and for the brembo are whimpy pads as one could get so for me the experience of pad deposit only happened or happens at track time when after lapping for 20 minutes on a road course it is reasonable to drive around the paddock for a while to cool off brake fluid and rotors to avoid the deposit;

the only issue really for me came from carbotech because this is the way the pad works; it's all about the compound deposit and how clean the rotor is when u bed these suckers

if you read the carbotech instructions it is to die for; they only guarantee bedding will work if the rotor has not seen any other pads or you have spent your afternoon brushing clean all 4 rotors of any residue from other pads....yeah like i have time to take off rotors, brush just for a 10 minute install per wheel....

Montreal300 is right on point; they will tell u at the track....get your foot off the brake pedal when reaching your paddock area; turn off the car, engage second and clutch easy....yeah right lol

ODP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,457 Posts
If only everyone would learn how to bed the brakes properly. All of my years driving I've never experienced rotors wrap. It's about educating yourself. "Dealer can't explain?" Because they have no clue. Very good tips Olivier. Great thread.
ETA: Olivier, I ordered my carbotechs prebedded. $20 extra. Took to fontana which is a half nascar half infield track and I must say these suckers are great. Stopping from 150 mph coming into a 90 degree turn. I had taken off my rotors and had them cleaned by my mechanic prior to installing the pads.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Challenger SRT8
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
Good driving HEMIZSP; 150 mph is nice! yes the carbotech are just sooooo goood to work with; as much as i am not the best bedder of brakes...lol....because i am a child impatient old man, the carbz do the trick....

went from Amsterdam to Munster, Germany in a rental Jag and took the turbo diesel to 140 mph round trip on a 2 lane German autobahn and brakes were scary in that thing....fun... at night....

i never reached 150 on a track that i can remember; i don't have enough strip to do that even at the Glen and i hit a wall at 130/135 where everything slows down because of how much air that sucker grabs...

anyway cool stuff; Happy One to you for the coming year!

we drive too slow in the US....lol

Cheers

ODP
 
  • Like
Reactions: wasp392
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top