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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2013 M6 sticking in gear-

(Updated 10/23/15 with the fix! See post #17 ) So my 2013 is coming up on 35,000 miles- I've been experiencing all the standard (for 2009-2010?) shifting issues...

1) Randomly gets stuck in 1, 2nd and 3rd gears. When stopped can not get it out of gear with out shutting the engine off then restarting or pulling on the shifter with extreme force. When it does get stuck and I push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor clutch drags and the vehicle wants to move forward.

2) Gets stuck in gear when parked on an incline

3) If in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear and you were to make a panic stop- hard braking without depressing the clutch- then pushing the clutch in- the trans is stuck in gear. This one is undeniably a SAFETY ISSUE as it could easily cause an accident if I (or my wife) were not to be able to maneuver to avoid an accident after a panic speed reduction.

I have searched the forums but don't seem to find anyone having much luck getting any warranty fixes on the later models.

I've seen the Star case #K38556860 and #S1021000004 which seem to only apply to the earlier models. Although the symptoms are identical to what I am experiencing.

Today I am doing what I have been dreading for months- going to the dealer to see what they have to say about it. I suspect I will get the same as everyone else in all the post I have read- not a warranty issue and I will need to pay parts and labor for a new clutch assembly.

The only good thing is I have discovered I that can reproduce issue #3 consistently (only in 1st gear). I can reproduce issue #2 about 50% of the time. So hopefully I will be able to get the service writer or a mechanic to go for a ride with me so I can avoid the whole "we drove it and did not find any problems" BS.

Sounds to me from the research I have done is the dealer fix will be to sell a new clutch assembly and while there in there re-grease the input shaft splines (like the 2009-2010 fix) and send me down the road with (much) lighter pockets!

If any of you have any other star case numbers, arguments I can use with the dealer or other input on this issues please post up!

Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need to report safety issues to the NTSB website. Once enough of us complain chrysler may do something about it.

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Yeah...SAFETY ISSUE is the key word when talking to the service department- that is the angle I'm using to try and get this resolved under warranty.

Just got back from the dealer. Was able to get the service writer to go for a ride with me and I was able to make it stick in first and second gear while he was in the car. Of course he said "I've never heard of this problem". I guess that's better than him saying yeah its definetly a clutch problem...your SOL buddy!
Could not get it to stick in gear on an incline though. There was only a small hill near by to try that on. Need a bigger incline to make that happen.
I have an appointment to take it back next Thursday for an official diagnostic by the transmission specialist.

I'll let you all know what they determine.
 

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This is exactly what happened to my 14' R/T M6. Also what prompted me to trade it in for my SP.

The service department at the dealer I traded it in to hasn't diagnosed it yet. If I had to guess it's the input shaft sticking, or the slave cylinder. But I don't know for sure because i didn't attempt to tare it apart myself.

Eventually you'll start smelling the clutch burning. I started a thread about it -- http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/ugh-14-r-t-m6-destroyed-itself-but-419666/
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah that Scat Pack sure is tempting...that is one SWEET looking ride you have there!
Thanks for linking to your post. I'll add your post to all the others I've been collecting to argue my case that it is a known issue. I've always felt the M6 trans and clutch in my RT were not quite right from day one. I've read that some people have found huge improvements in overall operation of the trans and clutch after replacing the clutch assembly.
 

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If I had to guess it's the input shaft sticking, or the slave cylinder. [/URL]
I agree with this, the symptoms you have are of a clutch not fully disengaging so probably one of of the above. Either way trans needs to come out and don't let them talk you into a clutch because I doubt it's bad or the problem. Hopefully there is someone at your dealer who knows their way around the M6.


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Clutch wear will depend on how long you've had the problem and also if you have been coming to a stop with the car in gear. By doing so, the clutch is "dragging" causing heat/wear... Back when mine was acting up, I was sure to find natural before coming to a stop.


After getting the input shaft splines lubed under OEM warranty on my 2009 R/T, mine shifts better than new.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dropped it off at the dealer tonight. Should have a diagnostic Thursday or Friday. I'll let you all know what they say.
 

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Please keep us updated!

My 2nd gear issue is a safety issue as well. It could easily put the car's occupants in a good deal of danger, be it merging, moving through an intersection, etc. It happens when you absolutely least expect it.

Somewhat related: my '14 R/T is approaching 30k miles (so just shy of the OP's 35k). Many people said the issues would go away but they most certainly have not. Just figured I'd include that tidbit...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well they have had it for 2 days- and the trans tech has not gotten to my vehicle yet. Good news is the service writer (different service writer) experienced the trans stuck in gear when moving the car into the storage area. He agrees its a safety issue and does not want me to drive it so its there for the weekend. Putting me in a rental car (paid by my extended warranty) on Monday. To be continued...
 

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I just got a call from my salesman where I traded my R/T M6 in that was having the same issue.

At first the service department was trying to blame the problem on the clutch. But my salesman told them he watched me drive the car off a trailer, and park it 150 yards away. They still wanted to blame it on the clutch before actually diagnosing it.

Apparently they did an actual diagnosis on it yesterday, and now they are saying it is a warranty issue, and it's not the clutch. The salesman couldn't tell me exactly what it is because they haven't tore into it yet. He said it's a trade in, and they know it's warrantied so it'll probably sit until they have time to fix it. But they know it's not the clutch now.

Like I said earlier, in my opinion as an ASE certified mechanic. There are only a couple things it could be, and they are either the slave cylinder, or the input shaft. My salesman is gonna call me when he finds out exactly what the issue is. But I wouldn't hold my breathe cause that could take several months as they have all kinds of recalls to overcome.

If I were you I would be very adamant to the service department about the problem NOT being the clutch. If you can drive the car, it ain't the clutch. But that's not gonna stop them from trying to blame the clutch to get out of doing warranty work. Don't take no for an answer!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:woot::woot: Just picked up my car- Took 8 days but looks like its fixed.

They said it was the throw-out bearing hanging up where it slides on the transmission nose so the pressure plate was not releasing completely. Cleaned off the old grease and polished both surfaces where the bearing holder slides on the transmission piece and then re-greased. Clutch has a completely different feel now- it's super smooth. I had never liked the way the clutch felt since the car was new. Now (after suffering with it for 35,000 miles) it feels right- has a little bit of play in the pedal at the top that it never had before and it has buttery smooth pedal action. Only drove it about 5 miles home from the dealer but what a difference!

I didn't get my invoice yet as I have to return the rental car (covered by the Maxcare warranty) in the morning before they can close out my ticket. I will report back after I see what they wrote on the invoice so hopefully it will help out some others who are having the same issue. I will also follow up with my impressions after I put some miles on it. I think I will have to learn how to drive it again as it feels that much different! :grin2:
 

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I tried to get this covered by my warranty and they said nope! Sorry! I had the same issue. So I just bought all the parts online and had a guy put them in for total of about half of what the dealer wanted. Mine is a 2009 and they told me I would get charged if they even opened my transmission. So I told that dealer to F off and I wouldnt ever return.
 

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I tried to get this covered by my warranty and they said nope! Sorry! I had the same issue. So I just bought all the parts online and had a guy put them in for total of about half of what the dealer wanted. Mine is a 2009 and they told me I would get charged if they even opened my transmission. So I told that dealer to F off and I wouldnt ever return.
I know its a pita, but would you mind telling me the parts you purchased?

I have a 2010 with 20k miles and I THINK I can feel it getting a little stickier to pull out gear as time goes on, but at the moment everything is fine. Once I give it a little nudge it slides out of gear smooth as butter.
From what I've read they changed the input shaft grease after a certain build date and I don't remember now but when I looked it up I was "safe" but who knows.

I'm really curious on the parts because from what I've read its a re & re on the tranny and just involves cleaning the wrong grease off and putting the right stuff on?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The warranty fix- Star Case #S1021000004

Ok I now have the hard copy of the invoice. As usual the service adviser was wrong- the repair had nothing to do with the throw-out bearing... it was the dried up grease and dirt accumulation on the clutch splines (Star Case #S1021000004 ). Repair required R&R of the trans, dis-assembly of the clutch and pressure plate assembly and cleaning and re-grease of the clutch and input shaft splines and re-assembly. Only parts required were the pressure plate bolts ("screws") and the "slines" what ever that may be (autocorrect?- see attached invoice). Service adviser said it should be covered under warranty for any vehicle with the standard 100,000 mile driveline warranty.

I hope this helps someone out there avoid getting raped by the dealer for what should be a warranty repair. Or if its already happened to get your money back.

Side note: Of course they flashed the computer with updated software. My car had not been in to the service department since I bought in November of 2012. I don't have a tune on it so not a big deal but I did notice the RPM's do not drop down toward idle nearly as fast as it used to when its revved up and when you push in the clutch between gears. May not matter but it just seems a little weird. Probably an emission thing to make it run cleaner?

Anyways looks like a happy ending! (I love those)

Here is the invoice-

[/URL][/IMG]
 

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This is great, I'm printing out your findings to have on hand for my dealer. I just dropped my 2012 M6 SRT off at the dealer for exact problem, I have 27K miles on it. i've noticed over the past few months that the issue was happening more frequently, especially when down shifting into 3rd or 2nd and come to a stop with the clutch pushed in and still in 3rd or 2nd. I have to force the shifter out of gear, and usually the car is still trying to move forward while clutch depressed.

My local dealer (Bob Baker, Carlsbad) took the case as a warranty issue so far. I am also having both of the rocker panel skirts replaced under warranty because they are cracked at the corner mounting locations. I will update when I hear more back from the dealer, but your info and documented sheet will be very handy to have. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This is great, I'm printing out your findings to have on hand for my dealer. I just dropped my 2012 M6 SRT off at the dealer for exact problem, I have 27K miles on it. i've noticed over the past few months that the issue was happening more frequently, especially when down shifting into 3rd or 2nd and come to a stop with the clutch pushed in and still in 3rd or 2nd. I have to force the shifter out of gear, and usually the car is still trying to move forward while clutch depressed.

My local dealer (Bob Baker, Carlsbad) took the case as a warranty issue so far. I am also having both of the rocker panel skirts replaced under warranty because they are cracked at the corner mounting locations. I will update when I hear more back from the dealer, but your info and documented sheet will be very handy to have. Thank you!
No problem Jeff- hope it works out for you. Report back and let us know how it goes. :thumbsup:
 

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So far approaching 50k I have only occasional gear engagement issues. Right now I classify it as shift gate and accompanying linkage binding and not input shaft and clutch problems. When this happens, I just take her out and rake (hammer)(speed) shift briskly through the gears a couple of times. Clears up every time..................period!


I drive mine every day and when I drive her like an old man for too long BABY reminds me what she was built for and that she wants it BADLY! Just sayin'.


If your results vary after trying this method, try it again. Maybe 3X.


Baby needs to be driven and driven hard once in a while.
 
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