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Got JBA longtube headers on the way. Was wanting tips and tricks on the install! Will the headers slide in without removing anything? If not, what needs to be removed?
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Just finished installing the driver side stainless works LT header from stainless works on my 5.7. Not a difficult job at all especially if you remove the engine mount and undo the top 10mm bolt from the steering shaft. I have the car sitting on 12" wheel cribs and the working height is perfect, as I don't have to strain to get to the top bolts on the header. I tightened the top 2 middle bolts with stubby closed end wrench. Racheting box end wrenches that swivel make taking the motor mount shield bolts and studs a breeze.

The passenger side is going to have to wait until the 26th.

Now where is my bottle of ibuprofen?
 

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Make sure you don’t move the steering shaft or you might have an air bag code. For the passenger side you will need to remove the starter, make sure batt is disconnected. Are you using locks on the bolts? Are you using factory gaskets? Do you have a tuner?
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Make sure you don’t move the steering shaft or you might have an air bag code. For the passenger side you will need to remove the starter, make sure batt is disconnected. Are you using locks on the bolts? Are you using factory gaskets? Do you have a tuner?
Top shaft does not move unless you purposely move it, but I taped it off to prevent it from spinning when bumped by my arm. The bottom shaft is essentially locked by the rack and pinion. Not using locking bolts but the bolts that came with the kit. I am using factory gaskets which requires some grinding on the SW headers to use. As for tuner, I already have a SC so yes. I also installed extra bungs on the headers and have a wide band from Innovate to help with dialing in the tune to safe limits until I get it on the dyno. My only unknown is the dipstick and if I need to insulate the wiring on the passenger side as I read that some had to do this. My only regret is not getting solid engine mounts as the factory ones are soft even though I have a manual.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Ah, now I know why the passenger side is such a PITA. That bolt which the alternator bracket ties to is ridiculously long. WTF Dodge engineers! I was able to get it out with easy using the steps below. I am thinking about trimming the bolt now that is out so it won't be so difficult putting it back in. BTW removing the starter helps to reach the manifold bolts with easy. My RT did not come with a heat shield over the starter but I think I will get/fabricate one because the headers will sit quite close to it.
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Why did you choose 2” primaries ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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Mounts on the earlier years are different and the SW headers I am installing use 2" primaries...even less space. They are bolted up now but I had to trim the passenger side stud otherwise it would hit one of the pipes. Other than that not too bad, but definitely time consuming.
Mine is a 2014...
 

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Just did the install today. Wasn’t as bad as expected but still a PITA. Didn’t remove steering column or motor mounts on the drivers side. I was able to wiggle the header into the spot and get to most bolts with the help of my buddy’s small hands. (good advantage to have) On the passengers side, didn’t have to remove anything either but was more of a tight space. I fit my hand through the top and got the bolts out with a ratchet wrench and that helped a lot. Getting the car up pretty night, having a creeper & a friends small hands will get the job done fairly easy. Job took about roughly 6 hours, excluding breaks. I’d rate the difficulty 6 out of 10.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Just did the install today. Wasn’t as bad as expected but still a PITA. Didn’t remove steering column or motor mounts on the drivers side. I was able to wiggle the header into the spot and get to most bolts with the help of my buddy’s small hands. (good advantage to have) On the passengers side, didn’t have to remove anything either but was more of a tight space. I fit my hand through the top and got the bolts out with a ratchet wrench and that helped a lot. Getting the car up pretty night, having a creeper & a friends small hands will get the job done fairly easy. Job took about roughly 6 hours, excluding breaks. I’d rate the difficulty 6 out of 10.
What year and engine?
 
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