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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
I just found a blow #18 fuse. Then I noticed the recommended replacement is different than what was installed. Docs say it should be a 20Amp however the blown fuse was a 30Amp. Anyone have an opinion on this? I've enclosed a photo showing the 30Amp blown fuse location.
Big Thanks!
1011278
 

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Are you the original owner of the car? I would really be concerned about what a previous owner might have done. If that circuit is designed for a 20 Amp fuse and is blowing a 30 Amp fuse, something extra must have been added to the circuit. Is there an aftermarket Amplifier in the trunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I actually bought it used. No aftermarket mods at all (that I can see). I have been tracking down some electrical issues that existed when I bought it. I.E. the trunk button doesn't work.
 

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2011 SXT Built in the Canada Plant
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Should never exceed what the original Circuit calls for... How ever we never know what Previous Owners have done in many cases.
 

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Best bet is to throw a 20A fuse in there if the manual calls for it.

A while back I was working on my car and ended up pulling the wrong fuse. Found out the hard way after closing the trunk... the fuse was the auto unlock for the trunk, car and maybe the dome lights.

Assuming they put them on the same circuit in your model, does your car unlock/lock with the button have any problems?
 

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Probably blew a fuse and stole the 20a for something else and threw whatever one they had in its place.
Or there was some aftermarket stuff wired up in the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks CStratus! I have an issue with the unlock on the drivers side along with the trunk open button. The unlock button on the drivers door and the keyfob unlocks the passenger door only. Neither the keyfob nor the trunk open button works for the trunk. Oddly, it did worked a week ago.. I have seen some corrosion in the fuse boxes so perhaps its an intermittent connection? .
 

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So I was trying to figure out where my footwell lights were wired into. They're diodes so they're not actually on in a circuit to my knowledge..

That being said I looked at my panel diagram and thought I pulled out the right one. I counted F1 F2 F3 instead of F2 F3 F4 when I started so I learned about the auto unlock the hard way.

Anyways I just tested it in my car. I have a alot of electronics in mine so ours may differ. It looks like fuses F8-F12 on my panel would be the most likely ones with an issue. F9 is the one that controls the automatic unlock for the trunk and doors. It seems like the door unlock still works but the auto unlock on the door handle will not.
Text Majorelle blue Commemorative plaque Menu Number
Machine Technology Electrical supply Electronic engineering


Look for similar fuse names on your diagram and don't be scared to pull them. Test all the fuses with lighting, power locks, etc.

If there's some rust on your fuses maybe try to clean it out.. a very small wire brush that can fit in the fuse is great. Either way if you clean it or not get some electrical conductive grease and put it on the fuse before you pop a new one in. Don't glob it on. A thin layer on the new fuse legs will do... just enough where when you feel it with your fingers it's greasy. Should help with conductivity if it's rusted.

Also if you see more fuses with rust throw some silica packets in your fuse box. It's not going to fix the problem but it will for sure help reduce moisture for the life of the bag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all! Great tips. I will try pulling fuses and cross my fingers. I appreciate the tips!

Found the problem with the trunk - it was corrosion in fuse #17. The fuse was fine. After spraying it with corrosion cleaner it worked. Also, placed 20A back in #18 and everything worked fine. Thanks again for all the help!

Just want to let others know (because it took me a long time to find this out), that the trunk release fuse is #17. It's listed as "Instrument Cluster" hence it's easy to overlook when diagnosing trunk issues. I had a problem with the trunk not releasing - it was corrosion in fuse #17. The fuse was fine. After spraying it with corrosion cleaner it worked fine.
Thanks to all on this board for all the help!
 
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