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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,

Can anyone point me to a link that has a video on how to change the Oil and filter on a 2014 Challenger RT?
Or can it be explained verbally? I'm not that incapable, just want to know the details.

Thanks AJ
 

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I just did the first oil change myself on my 2013 R/T. I reviewed several videos on YouTube. But it was actually a lot simpler than I thought.

Before you do the oil change, get about 8 quarts of 5W-20 motor oil, a Mopar Oil Filter #MO-899, a 93mm oil filter wrench cap, an oil tray, and a funnel. Also, latex gloves.

1) Under the front of the car, remove the 4 bolts (#10 mm) holding the plastic splash guard engine cover.
2) The oil drain plug can be seen and is the lowest bolt (one and only) at the bottom of the oil pan.
3) The oil filter can be seen and it should be black. (look at photo)

4) At the top of the engine, remove the oil cap and cover the opening with a towel to prevent things from falling in.
5) Under the car, use a #13 mm socket to loosen (but not remove yet) the drain plug.
6) Put the oil drain tray under the plug, then back the plug out slowly to let the oil drain out. Make sure the rubber gasket is still on the drain plug.

7) After draining out the oil (about 10 minutes), screw the drain plug back into the oil pan. Wipe it clean.
8) Use the oil filter wrench cap to remove the oil filter. Again loosen the filter a little bit but don't take it out completely yet.
9) Slide the oil drain tray under the oil filter, then back the oil filter out with hand only and let both filter and residual oil drain out.

10) After 5 minutes, slide the oil drain tray away. Check to see of old filter gasket is stuck to the engine. If so, pry it off gently with a screw driver.
11) Before installing the new filter, use the new motor oil to "wet" the gasket on the new filter.
12) Install oil filter by hand first and tighten with wrench. Wipe down any residual oil.

13) Back on top of the engine bay, use funnel to help pour new oil back into the engine. Pour only 7.0 quarts into the engine first. The engine takes 7.5 quarts. (See photo)
14) Check oil level with dip stick.
15) Pour another small amount if dip stick indicates low level. If full, stop. (Too much oil can damage engine)

16) Screw oil cap back onto of the engine.
17) Start car for a minute. Then stop the engine.
18) Check oil level again since the new oil filter would suck up about 1/4 quart of oil. Add a little oil if needed.

19) Check underside of the car to see if anything is leaking.
20) If not, slide the plastic splash guard back into place and install the 4 bolts. Done!

Again, this is just a guide. Make sure the car is properly jacked and safely secured. Put wheel chocks at the rear tires to prevent rolling forward or backwards. Use safety eye protection when working under the car. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. 3 questions:
1) I'm not using synthetic, how many miles should I wait between oil changes?
2) I have AMSOIL filter (I bought on line for 2014 RT) should I use that instead of Mopar Oil Filter #MO-899 ?
3) What about the "brand" of the oil ? Castrol ok?

Thanks AJ
 

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Prior to installing the new filter fill it with fresh oil to prevent a dry start. You'll be surprised at how much oil it absorbs.
Also nothing was mentioned about using a set of ramps, they are a must have item.
 

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A few points of clarification
12) Install oil filter by hand first and tighten with wrench. Wipe down any residual oil. - If you use a wrench ( you don't need to) only tighten 1/4 turn past hand tight.
13) Back on top of the engine bay, use funnel to help pour new oil back into the engine - Slowly... There are too many stories about filling too fast and this results in oil coming out of the breather. Pour only 7.0 quarts into the engine first. The engine takes 7.5 quarts. (See photo) - Start the engine let it run and then sit for 15 min before checking the oil level
14) Check oil level with dip stick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the input, great instructions, can anyone chime in on my other question?
Thanks for the info. 3 questions:
1) I'm not using synthetic, how many miles should I wait between oil changes?
2) I have AMSOIL filter (I bought on line for 2014 RT) should I use that instead of Mopar Oil Filter #MO-899 ?
3) What about the "brand" of the oil ? Castrol ok?

Thanks AJ
 

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Thanks for all the input, great instructions, can anyone chime in on my other question?
Thanks for the info. 3 questions:
1) I'm not using synthetic, how many miles should I wait between oil changes?
2) I have AMSOIL filter (I bought on line for 2014 RT) should I use that instead of Mopar Oil Filter #MO-899 ?
3) What about the "brand" of the oil ? Castrol ok?

Thanks AJ
I've used Castrol for years, and really like it. The "brand" is really a personal preference more than anything, just make sure to use the factory recommended weight. It will perform just fine, and last per the suggested change schedule for your year Challenger.
 

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Prior to installing the new filter fill it with fresh oil to prevent a dry start. You'll be surprised at how much oil it absorbs.
Also nothing was mentioned about using a set of ramps, they are a must have item.
Yep, ramps are a must have, must use!

Filling up the filter is a "good thing" too :)

I prefer the SRT filter over others, but that's a personal thing too!
 

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Thanks for all the input, great instructions, can anyone chime in on my other question?
Thanks for the info. 3 questions:
1) I'm not using synthetic, how many miles should I wait between oil changes?
2) I have AMSOIL filter (I bought on line for 2014 RT) should I use that instead of Mopar Oil Filter #MO-899 ?
3) What about the "brand" of the oil ? Castrol ok?

Thanks AJ
On standard oil I always change it every 3000 miles.
My SRT manual says every 6 months regardless of miles but not sure if your manual states that. If only driven seasonally put it away with fresh oil.
 

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Also, don't dump the oil in all at once - the PCV fresh air hose is attached to the oil fill tube.

If you pour the oil in quickly, it could potentially run along the air supply hose and then get your air filter soaked with oil.

This is especially true for the 5 qt. jugs (much better $/quart). Pour the oil in at a moderate rate and you won't get that issue.
 

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Just an FYi, if you add 7 full quarts to the system the enigne will be a bit overfull. The car will be fine but the dipstick is basically worthless then. Add about 6.6-6.75 quarts to be at the top of the fill line and then you can add a tenth of a quart or two over time as you drive it.
 

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I have about 1000 Miles before I hit 3K, debating whether to do this myself or take it to the dealer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've been reading where 3000 is too soon, no need... And, above and beyond that, the computer will tell you when it's ready.... Could be 3500-7000, depending on drive habit
 

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I have about 1000 Miles before I hit 3K, debating whether to do this myself or take it to the dealer...
I have read here and elsewhere that the filter is put on at the factory by gorillas, and is REALLY hard to get off for the first change, so I took mine to the dealer at 1000, and now I have 3-6000 miles to decide whether to do it myself for the next one.

And what filter to use.

And whether to go synthetic.

Decisions, decisions!:confused:
 

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3-6000 miles on dino oil? I wouldn't do that on synthetic.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think synthetic is over rated, dirty is dirty, after 5000 miles,,,,dirty oil is "dirty" synthetic or not. That AMSOIL oil filter ($13) is supposed to be good.
Kwick Kar will change it for me for $40 (I supply the AMSOIL filter)...$53 bottom line.
OR, change is myself, (I figure at least, $30 for oil, +$13 filter ..$43 bottom line (maybe more).

the dealership is only about $40 to do it...just takes longer

So? $10 more (maybe less) for me to not have to do it....hmm?! ...no decision there!
 

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I have read here and elsewhere that the filter is put on at the factory by gorillas, and is REALLY hard to get off for the first change, so I took mine to the dealer at 1000, and now I have 3-6000 miles to decide whether to do it myself for the next one.

And what filter to use.

And whether to go synthetic.

Decisions, decisions!:confused:
I changed mine at 1000 miles, again at 3,000 miles. It will get changed at 6,000 miles. I'm old school... never had an oil problem with ANY car I've ever owned. I would rather change oil that is a little dirty than wait until its black. Its not that expensive.. and not hard to do. 6000 miles in between w/ regular oil? Not on my car. The oil is the blood of the car. Just my 2 cents worth.

I've found its more of a pain in the arse to take the covers off under the car than to actually change the oil. And I'm a female.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I think synthetic is over rated, dirty is dirty, after 5000 miles,,,,dirty oil is "dirty" synthetic or not. That AMSOIL oil filter ($13) is supposed to be good.
Kwick Kar will change it for me for $40 (I supply the AMSOIL filter)...$53 bottom line.
OR, change is myself, (I figure at least, $30 for oil, +$13 filter ..$43 bottom line (maybe more).

the dealership is only about $40 to do it...just takes longer

So? $10 more (maybe less) for me to not have to do it....hmm?! ...no decision there!
How are you judging "dirty?" By looking at it? You can't tell anything about the state of oil just by looking at it, also synthetic oil a) cleans your internals better and keeps them cleaner than conventional, b) is able to hold more insolubles in suspension and c) won't break down to a lower viscosity as easily or quickly as conventional. UOA proves this time and time again. Definitely not overrated, however as long as you perform regular maintenance then it really doesn't matter what you use.

Some dealers will do an oil change for real cheap if you bring in your own oil and filter. I had to get my oil changed a couple of weeks ago when I was out in Kentucky, brought my own oil and filter to the local dealer and they charged me a whole $8 to do it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok! I'm sold!, I'm switching to synthetic, and every 5000 miles. (I think I can get (5000 out of synthetic) I was just at dealership. They said now they are highly recommending synthetic... Next year, it's required.

Frankly I agree oil is "the blood", and have always changed early, and I too believe that is why I've had no engine troubles, . I was just looking for someone to talk me out of it, in case I was being paranoid
 
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