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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm looking to do a 392 cam swap. Could yall help me with a list of what ill need and where I can purchase these items. I would appreciate very much guys. I done some research but what I've found is for automatics mine is a manual as stated above.

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From my upgrade...

Here is a pretty complete parts list that I used on the project for anyone that is considering part or all of the same upgrade:

1. Mopar Scat Pack Stage 3 heads P/N RL021608DE, RL021609DE

2. 392 cam P/N 05037379BC

3. BBK ceramic coated shorty headers P/N 40280

4. Stage 8 locking header bolts P/N 8916

5. Mahl Head bolts P/N GS33429 (2 sets)

6. Manley Push Rods 5.7/6.4 4130 chromo P/N 26640

a. P/N 25680 5/16 x 0.080” wall x 6.8” (8) Intake
b. P/N 25722 5/16 x 0.080” wall x 8.1” (8) Exhaust
7. Speedlogix Oil Cooler Kit

a. Oil cooler P/N 5037523AA
b. Upper radiator hose P/N 55038135AA
c. Lower Radiator Hose P/N 55038146AA (you will need to substitute the radiator outlet hose P/N 5039042AG or cut the hose from your R/T to fit the water pump).
d. Engine oil cooler fitting P/N 53022323AA. Make sure that the correct part for your car ships. I had to work with Speedlogix to update their kit and send me the correct threaded nipple for the oil filter. 53022323AA is what fits 2013. 2010- use a smaller nipple.
e. Thermostat Housing P/N 53022168AB
8. Head gaskets P/N 53022306AB, 53022307AB

9. Timing cover gasket P/N 53021521AD

10. Header gaskets P/N 05045495AA, 05045496AA

11. Valve cover gaskets P/N 05114179AB (qty 2)

12. Oil pick up tube O-ring P/N 53020861

13. Black Permatex Hi Temp RTV (for sealing the corner of the timing cover to the block)

14. Blue loctite

15. Engine Assembly lube, Sta-Lube or similar

16. SRT oil filter 05038041AA

17. Amsoil 5W-20 (I am actually running Valvoline conventional oil and filter for 500-1000 miles to clean it out. Then I will switch back to synthetic Amsoil).

18. OAT concentrated coolant 68163848AA (make sure you use the correct coolant for your year).

19. Custom tune through Hemifever (a must so it doesn't lean out).

20. Chain guide P/N 4893429AA

Tools: This is what I used: full metric and SAE socket and combo wrench set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives), 1/4"-, 3/8"- and 1/2"-drive torque wrenches, various pliers and crescent wrenches, 1/2"-drive large sized deep sockets (10mm-32mm), universal joints for all drive sizes, socket adapters, 1/2" breaker bar. Only special tool I needed was harmonic balancer remover that I borrowed from the local auto parts store.
 
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Those are the Scat Pack Stage 3 ported heads from Mopar that were offered for a time before the R/T Scat Pack came out. You may be able to still find some out there, but there are other heads that you can go with. I actually have my original heads that can be sent in for porting if you're interested. That way you can just swap them out. send me PM if you're interested.
 

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not 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 listed above if just doing the cam. and if you're using the same heads, you will want to consider swapping out the valve springs, locators and retainers. I did not have to do that because I installed fully assembled heads. I pulled this from an old file I had before I decided to swap the heads out. Links may or may not be current...
PSI Valve Springs for ALL Hemi Applications PSI-LS1511ML $249.95
PSI Valve Springs for (2003-2008 5.7L) (Non-VVT) (2006-2010 6.1L) Hemi Applications PSI-LS1511ML
Retainers: Comp Cams 761-16 $58.99
COMP Cams 761-16: 7° Steel Retainers Chrysler Hemi 5.7L | JEGS
Spring Cups/Locators: Manley 42324-16 $72.99
Manley 42324-16: SPRING CUP-ID1.311 221431 | JEGS
 

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with the M6 you don't need to change lifters - so the heads can remain on the engine.

if you're doing the swap yourself, you'd use a spark plug adapter for compressed air to hold the valves closed while changing the springs

(note for automatics; if using the 392 cam for A5 / A8 applications, the OEM MDS lifters will work with the appropriate 392 cam for MDS...I've done this before on a 5.7 / A5 combination)
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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High Horse Performance, a vendor here, will know exactly what is needed to correctly get a cam in your ride.
 

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Manual 6speed. LOL
 

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Whats a m6?

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
From my upgrade...

Here is a pretty complete parts list that I used on the project for anyone that is considering part or all of the same upgrade:

1. Mopar Scat Pack Stage 3 heads P/N RL021608DE, RL021609DE

2. 392 cam P/N 05037379BC

3. BBK ceramic coated shorty headers P/N 40280

4. Stage 8 locking header bolts P/N 8916

5. Mahl Head bolts P/N GS33429 (2 sets)

6. Manley Push Rods 5.7/6.4 4130 chromo P/N 26640

a. P/N 25680 5/16 x 0.080” wall x 6.8” (8) Intake
b. P/N 25722 5/16 x 0.080” wall x 8.1” (8) Exhaust
7. Speedlogix Oil Cooler Kit

a. Oil cooler P/N 5037523AA
b. Upper radiator hose P/N 55038135AA
c. Lower Radiator Hose P/N 55038146AA (you will need to substitute the radiator outlet hose P/N 5039042AG or cut the hose from your R/T to fit the water pump).
d. Engine oil cooler fitting P/N 53022323AA. Make sure that the correct part for your car ships. I had to work with Speedlogix to update their kit and send me the correct threaded nipple for the oil filter. 53022323AA is what fits 2013. 2010- use a smaller nipple.
e. Thermostat Housing P/N 53022168AB
8. Head gaskets P/N 53022306AB, 53022307AB

9. Timing cover gasket P/N 53021521AD

10. Header gaskets P/N 05045495AA, 05045496AA

11. Valve cover gaskets P/N 05114179AB (qty 2)

12. Oil pick up tube O-ring P/N 53020861

13. Black Permatex Hi Temp RTV (for sealing the corner of the timing cover to the block)

14. Blue loctite

15. Engine Assembly lube, Sta-Lube or similar

16. SRT oil filter 05038041AA

17. Amsoil 5W-20 (I am actually running Valvoline conventional oil and filter for 500-1000 miles to clean it out. Then I will switch back to synthetic Amsoil).

18. OAT concentrated coolant 68163848AA (make sure you use the correct coolant for your year).

19. Custom tune through Hemifever (a must so it doesn't lean out).

20. Chain guide P/N 4893429AA

Tools: This is what I used: full metric and SAE socket and combo wrench set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives), 1/4"-, 3/8"- and 1/2"-drive torque wrenches, various pliers and crescent wrenches, 1/2"-drive large sized deep sockets (10mm-32mm), universal joints for all drive sizes, socket adapters, 1/2" breaker bar. Only special tool I needed was harmonic balancer remover that I borrowed from the local auto parts store.
Hey brother I have a question for you how did you change the pushrods with out the 9070 push rod retainer tool the Haynes manuel I bought says I need it but I've started the build just need some guidance if you could brother thank you much!
 

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I just systematically loosened the rocker shaft bolts and lifted it off. Once the shaft is off, you can simply pull the rods out. The pushrod retainer tool is an optional tool to hold the push rods in place while you re attach the rocker shaft. I did not use it. I reinstalled the shaft partially tightening it down and loosening back up two or three times to make sure each rod was seated in the rocker arm perfectly. Just took some patience and careful inspection.

If you’re swapping the springs, then you will need the spring compressor tool to do so.

1010352


1010351
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So do I absolutely have to change the push rods and springs. The ones you suggested I bought are they different or the same ones?
 

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So no disrespect here at all, but you should more than likely do a little more searching. 4 years ago I wrote up a step by step tutorial for doing a cam swap. No special tools are needed what so ever. You don't need different heads. You will need to replace your valve springs & should replace your retainers. There are a number of springs on the market you can choose, a little research will show you that most folks use the PSI springs, Mopar performance springs or PAC spring. All of them are good. If you've never done anything like a cam swap before, I strongly suggest you get with a friend who has more experience at this sort of job, or have a professional do the work. Also don't forget you will need a retune for your vehicle to have optimum performance. In addition to normal hand tools, you should get the Mopar Harmonic balancer puller. It will work better than the 3 Jaw pullers you can buy at local parts stores. Good luck in getting the swap completed. Nothing is better than more power.
 

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So no disrespect here at all, but you should more than likely do a little more searching. 4 years ago I wrote up a step by step tutorial for doing a cam swap.
This? (Looks like pictures went awol)


A Guy
 
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This? (Looks like pictures went awol)


A Guy
Yeah they more than likely did. But the info is there.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So no disrespect here at all, but you should more than likely do a little more searching. 4 years ago I wrote up a step by step tutorial for doing a cam swap. No special tools are needed what so ever. You don't need different heads. You will need to replace your valve springs & should replace your retainers. There are a number of springs on the market you can choose, a little research will show you that most folks use the PSI springs, Mopar performance springs or PAC spring. All of them are good. If you've never done anything like a cam swap before, I strongly suggest you get with a friend who has more experience at this sort of job, or have a professional do the work. Also don't forget you will need a retune for your vehicle to have optimum performance. In addition to normal hand tools, you should get the Mopar Harmonic balancer puller. It will work better than the 3 Jaw pullers you can buy at local parts stores. Good luck in getting the swap completed. Nothing is better than more power.
Did it all by my self by the book and she's running strong bubby thanks though!
 
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