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2015 392 Whipple forged internals build & hellcat camshaft

104K views 203 replies 41 participants last post by  WesleyinSpace 
#1 · (Edited)
pulled the trigger and just ordered all the stuff to bulletproof the bottom end, here's my list of stuff I will be installing:

ModernMuscleExtremes 6.4L 392 HEMI Forged 2618 Drop In Pistons and Rods Power Package
- Coated Rod Bearings & Premium Main bearings
- MLX HEMI 5 Layer Head Gaskets by Cometic
- Moly top ring

ARP head studs P/N: 244-4300
ARP main studs P/N: 244-5400

Hellcat camshaft - P/N: 5038761AA

ATI 5% overdrive Harmonic Damper P/N: 918432

McLeod RXT HD clutch P/N: 6975-07HD


this is going on what I currently have which is a whipple 2.9 with kooks LT's and catless mids. currently running 8-9 PSI of boost. with the ATI damper should push it up to 10-12 psi. but we'll see.

might take pics and document the process. we'll see, going to have fun for sure!

*edit- for those that have not seen my supercharger install post, here is a link to it:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f176/2015-whipple-install-srt-392-tutorial-479569/
 
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#2 · (Edited)
as for preparation waiting for the parts to get here I went and fabbed up a engine oil preluber, I'm not about to pay 200 bucks for something I'll use but a couple times, if that.
so I went and purchased a 3/8" NPT to barb fitting from lowe's and a cheap sprayer, I bought mine from norther tool(model #32000 ) for 10 bucks, I cut the sprayer end off and attached the barbed to NPT fitting on there. that was a bugger, as it was a tight fit. I did op check it to make sure it would push oil though without it being hooked up to the engine, it does push the oil through as it does manufacture a couple psi so it works not hooked up, we'll see if it works once attached to the engine. if it works no biggie. cheap oil preluber for under 15 bucks.

the unit fabbed up:


the fitting forced into the tiny hose, shouldn't be to much of a issue as the pressure is probably below 10 psi anyway, and if it does leak once i hook it up, I'll put a small worm gear clamp on it.
 
#4 ·
Your car is going to be a Hellcat Killer (and probably just about anything else on the road too)! I'm looking forward to seeing your results.

That's a Great idea! I enjoy learning about how people's minds work, especially on ingenious ideas like these. I'm cheap/frugal/whatever and this is Great to see!

Just my opinion, but I'd put the clamp on there anyway, just in case because it could prevent a mess.

Just my thoughts and Thanks for sharing! :cheers:
 
#6 ·
I know, but for tuning, cost, and driveability, this cam makes sense for me. it's like putting the stock cam back in for reliability. I realize it's like a stage 1 cam but I am good with that. even if I only net 15 RWHP out of it, it was only $232 shipped. I am not shooting for the moon and max power with this build, just a reliable mid level HP car.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Is it feasible to have the crankshaft and ATI set up for a key way like the older engines? Seems like a better option than the crank pin kits.
I'm also wanting to do the Modern Muscle drop ins but cant do it yet. Also, having tuning issues with HP Tuning so I may have to remove my blower and stay stock.
 
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#14 ·
it is, but you would have to remove the crank and have the crank machined to put a key in it. the ATI crank adapter has a keyway in it to accept a key. but that is really not necessary, almost overkill unless your were going to a power level above the stock crank capabilities, but then you probably could get one with a keyway at that point, the pin kit is more than sufficient for stock and normal blower power levels. I recommend going to some other tuner platform ie diablosport. plenty of quality tuners that are capable.
 
#15 ·
I thought you may remove crankshaft so that's why I was suggesting the key way.
I'm about to give up on the tuning wait time. I called HP and sent a email with no response. I tried to call Diablo and selected the call back when a rep is available and no call back. Also emailed. I really want to see what this 6.4 will be like with 6 PSI but theirs almost no customer service with tuning companies anymore.
 
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#16 ·
agreed with the tuning companies, you almost have to work through a qualified tuner now a days. I know hp tuners works wonders on most of the GM platforms, but ford and mopars, i haven't heard of any reliable success stories especially for those that tune themselves.

as for the keyway machining. I will be doing no machinework to the block or crank. in a way it is a budget buildup. repinning it with the pin kit whipple supplied will be sufficient. I called ATI and they have no issue with another type pin kit being installed on the crank adapter. if anything would be warranted, it would be the balancer itself.
 
#21 ·
started prepping the tear down removed the hood. before you remove the hood you need to remove the 2 lower passenger side plastic clip retainers that hold the hood insulation on off to disconnect the windshield washer line:


here it is with the windshield wipers, lower cowl, and strut brace removed. I also drained the oil and antifreeze as well to prep for tommorow. hope to get the front off and the supercharger off to prep to remove the engine.
 
#22 · (Edited)
day 2, got the supercharger off and found something interesting, the lower intake manifold was not completely seated against the heads. very interesting, and I didn't catch it on the install. the valve control mounting area for the cam, where it mounts on the block is interfering with the lower intake manifold by a solid mm or 1.5 mm. time to call Whipple tomorrow and see what they say. I'll post pics later. just took a couple today. not gonna document what I've already done in the supercharger post.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Andy-
I'm really interested in hearing more about the blower not being seated. I would think that you would have had all kinds of problems getting the car running right with leakage at the heads. :scratchhead:

I suggest that you do a blue check of the surface going back together to make sure you have good contact.


Great post and build. Appreciate the time your taking to document everything. That alone must be taking a lot of time to do. :thumbsup:
 
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#23 ·
Subscribed for updates!
 
#25 · (Edited)
here are the how-to's leading up to the supercharger removal:

go's without saying, I removed the battery negative lead and depressurized the fuel system prior to start and put the car on jackstands.

1. remove hood , to remove the hood pull the two passenger side plastic tabs on the hood annotate in picture:


then carefully pull the liner away from the hood and disconnect the wiper fluid line from the tee, it pulls out easily. set the line aside. I coiled it around the hood hinge.


remove the (4) 10mm bolts attaching the hood to the hood brackets. it helps to have someone else. the hood is light, but is ackward to handle since it doesn't have a hood prop to hold it up. remove it and store somewhere safe.


2. next remove the windshield wipers. the plastic covers pop off easy, I used a razor to pop the caps off. then use a 13 mm socket to remove the nut. pull the wiper away from the windshield to remove the wiper from the base. don't worry if you didn't mark them, they are stamped inside, drivers and passenger side.

3. remove the hood cowl, there are 6 plastic clips as annotated in red circles below. there are also 2 small plastic clips in the upper corners that need removal. the two screw heads are 90 degree lock turn fasteners. do not overspin them. once they are all removed the cowl pop out. also remove the passenger side cowl cover for the computer, it's held in by (2) plastic clips.

the strut tower brace (STB) has a connector(location annotated by a yellow oval)on the passenger side that needs to be removed. use a flathead screwdriver and pry it away from the STB, it pops right out. on the drivers side the windshield wiper motor is supported by a bracket on the STB(annotated in a yellow circle), when you remove the (4) 13mm bolts that hold the STB down(red and yellow rectangles), pry the wiper motor from the mount. the STB comes out after that.


not gonna cover the removal of the supercharger, just show pictures. this is where the intake manifold would be removed in a regular engine removal instructions.

supercharger removed:


 
#26 · (Edited)
ready for engine removal:



steps 4-7 are either not applicable or have been completed already(remove engine covers, fuel system depressurization, disconnect battery, & remove intake manifold)

8. remove the oil control valve connector located at the front of the engine valley, it has a lock tab that needs to be pulled, the press the grey area of the tab and remove the connector.

* on all connectors, I tape/tag and annotate the connector with a sharpie. this does two things, obviously its a quick reference on what it is, but secondly its acts as a flag of something unconnected when re-installation is complete when I do the once over final inspection.




9. next, remove the 10mm retaining bolt.
10. remove the valve by rotating the valve slightly to break the seal. then pull the valve straight out. I used a flathead screwdriver to pry it out slowly.
there is a caution in the instructions:
CAUTION:Do not let the tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, sever damage may occur to the tensioner.

I never had any issue just pulling it out.


calling it a night and will continue tommorow. :)
 
#27 ·
I wanna watch too.
 
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#28 ·
Subbed, and add to things i wish i could do. :)
 
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