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I have a 2015 Challenger Scat with the base sound system. Which means it comes with a 270 watt amp, 6 speakers..

I purchased some new Kicker speakers and the 8 in sub with amp.. was about to have it installed when the installer said it would just ruin the sound. His reason was the 270 am does not have enough power to support the new speakers.. I needed to upgrade the amp, but the amp is tied to the head unit so he didnt want to mess with that..

How do i get better sound, I have read through the original post about installing them, read more of the following pages but no one mentions the amp or the power required to the speakers they are putting in.

any insight would be welcomed...
 

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I just used your glorious tutorial to change out my rear speakers and door speakers on my 2012 r/t. Factory head unit, and no amp for the new speakers. Took me about 2 hours total to do the whole thing. I opted for pioneer speakers, because they're cheap. First problem I encountered was that the 6.5 inch speakers I purchased did not fit perfectly into the back dash cutout. To remedy this, what I basically did was removed the factory speaker.... Removed the cone material, cut out all the plastic supports that held the magnet to the plastic adapter plate. So visualize this : so now I have the factory speaker, minus the speaker. Now it's just a mounting bracket. I now install my new speakers into the plastic shell of the factory speakers, and voila... I have a cheap mounting bracket. Sorry I didn't take pics. The front door speakers are the easier of the lot. Like many others, I has to modify the adapter plate. There is a "watershed" on the adapter plate. I had to remove it entirely. In my opinion, the back speakers weren't even worth changing. I notice no discernable difference in the sound. When you go to push in the plastic door trim clips, be very careful not to push them all the way through. The internal piece if the clip will drop inside the door. I has this happen on about 4 of the clips. I couldn't find all the internal pieces
 

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First off, THANK YOU for the in-depth tutorial. I'm doing a complete speaker replacement on a 2016 with SGII, so three 3 1/2" drivers in front, 2 to the sides of the rear passengers, and 6 1/2" drivers and 8" DVC sub on the back deck. The information is correct on the Metra 71-039C OEM wiring harness adapters for the dash speakers--- In fact, I ordered the incorrect adapters because amazon shows the pic of the Metra 72-6512 adapters (note: the adapters for the rear, door, and sub speakers are 72-6514) listed as 'Chrysler compatible' as looking identical to the 71-039C 'Mazda' part... It's the WRONG PICTURE. I ordered three sets (a total of 6 adapters, for 5 speakers) and now i'm stuck with $30-odd dollars of useless adapters... PITA to swap out such a small part, Oh well. PLEASE NOTE If you are swapping the dash speakers or rear side speakers, that Mazda part IS correct.... Don't get fooled by the pic like I did.

So, my install is delayed a few days...
 

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I did not. They are mid-bass so I didn't bother putting in a two or three way speaker since the highs would be filtered out by the amp.
I'm a new challenger owner and thinking about a system, if i bypass the stock amp and run speaker wire into a loc then to an amp, from the amp to the speaker (front door speakers) will they be full range or still only mids?
 

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Would you be kind enough to tell me what speakers you used for rear deck, doors and dash? Along with where you purchased them. did you need an adapter for the rear deck? Trying to install speakers in a 16 SP and having issues. Thanks
 

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Not sure if you're asking me but here are the speakers and adapters I used in my '16 with the Sound Group II.

Just wrapped up putting three pairs of Infinity Reference speakers in my 2016 with the SGII. Dash, rear seat, and rear deck. What a difference!

If I were doing it again I probably wouldn't bother with the rear seat speakers (3.5"). Not enough of an improvement to make it worth it, but since Crutchfield had a BOGO sale over Black Friday I'm not out much and the rear panels were mostly off anyway to accommodate the removal of the deck speakers so it wasn't much trouble to swap them out. The dash and rear deck speakers are a different story...drastic upgrade over the OEM speakers.

FYI the Infinity Reference X REF-6502ix come with speaker adapters which enable you to bolt them right into the factory openings which are a tad larger than 6.5". The dash speakers (X REF-3002cfx) drop right in with no modifications necessary.

Metra #71-039C wiring harness adapters were used for the dash and rear seat locations and Metra #72-6514 wiring harness adapters were used for the rear deck.

Thanks to the OP for the step by step directions on how these goofy interior panels come off. I doubt I would have even attempted it without them.
 

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Got done changing out all my speakers from an SG1 setup to JBL GX series all around. The sound is so much better and louder since these are two ohm speakers. The how-to here was perfect. The bass is so much better I might not even add a sub that I was planning.
 

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Nice write up...you are a brave soul! Brand new Challenger and already yanking on door panels...definitely got some guts I don't LOL.
THANK YOU...this made my job so easy. Great instructions. It took about 15 minutes to complete this job. Had you not mentioned the wire harness there is no way I would have known. Now on to the door and back!
 

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First off, I must give credit to 15RT for his thorough step by step post. I followed his steps for the dash and rear deck. Please note that I did not upgrade the 6x9 door speakers.
With that being said, here is my 2015 SGII upgrade. I have $636 into this system. You could save a few $ if you go with a cheaper sub.

  • (1) 12TW1-4 subwoofer.
  • (1) Sheet of ¾” MDF wood from local hardware store.
Onto the trunk portion. Completely remove the trunk cover to give access to the spare tire well. My car did not come with a spare tire, so this area was best served for a sub box. I built a sub box with outside dimensions of 26”x14”x6” out of ¾” MDF. I bought the MDF sheet from a local hardware store and had them cut most of the pieces while I was there. I donated the rest of the wood. This box left me enough room to wrap a towel around the air pump and store it next to the sub box (those cups are for closing the headlight air intake while at the carwash).
The amp is so small that I mounted it to the side of the sub box. However I’m having a difficult time tuning the amp because I have to pull the sub box each time so keep that in mind when mounting your amp. I bought a 4 gauge amp wire install kit. You only need 4’ of wire though and a fuse. I connected the amp remote wire to one of the ignition wires that run along the main harness from the battery. The amp came with a remote bass gain that I ran to the driver’s seat. The amp also came with High input wires. Run the (2) speaker wire sets from the factory sub directly into the high input wires on the amp. The factory sub was DVC, so you will get (2) single inputs acting as the left/right input into the amp.
Mount the sub box once all 4 corners are touching the bottom metal of the spare tire well. Again, this left me enough room to mount the amp to the top of the box before I mounted the box.
Lastly, I built the box during the week. Therefore I only had 3 hours into the entire installation for all speakers including the amp and sub. I will note that the rear tray no longer rattles…I still haven’t mounted the remote bass; I wrapped it in black carpet and wedged it between the seat and center console while I determine the best mounting spot. I might just leave it there though.
Do you have any more pictures of the sub box? I've been toying with a fiberglass box but if you managed to build one just out of MDF that's a whole lot easier.

Thanks
 

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I can't thank you enough for this How-To. I just breezed through both dash and doors in about 2 hours total. I can't even imagine how long that would have taken (and how many small parts I would have broken) without this!!



I have the base Alpine system and today I installed the following:



Dash:

Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx

Metra Harness # 71-039C



Doors:

Infinity Reference REF-9623ix

Metra Harness # 72-6514



The sound quality difference is night and day. SO MUCH BETTER than the factory system!! Highs are incredibly crisp and clear, vocals are totally decent and the bass is much more noticeable and much tighter. My total cost was less than $180 and I feel like I have a completely new stereo system.



One thing to note is that on the door speakers I had to use the spacer that comes with the 6x9's in order to clear the existing factory bracket. Even with the foam seal there were still air leaks. I ran a few rings of electrical tape around the outside of the speaker bracket and it tightened it up very nicely. If you are considering a new system, all it takes is $180 and this 'how-to' and you are set.

I too did mine this past saturday, well except the doors, but instill want a little more bass so i have decided to add a powered amplified woofer from crutchfield... that should take care of my bass problem for another 250.00...love the night and day diff on the mids and highs, mine too is 6 speaker alpine
 

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Thanks for the great write up. It helped me a lot.
A couple things I would like to add. When installing the rear speakers all you really need to do it pull the 4 fur trees. The panel will slide out of the way easily if you work it a little.
Also if you are thinking of installing the infinity Reference 6502ix 6.5 speakers in the rear deck but are finding that Crutchfield and others are telling you they will not fit it is because ONE of the holes will not line up on the plastic adapter included. This is very easily widened and then they will drop in and work perfectly. See attached photo. These speakers work well, sound great.
 

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Are the 6522's replacements for the 6502's everyone is speaking about? I noticed that Crutchfield has recently stopped carrying the 3.5" and 6.5" most have been saying they used and I imagine these are just the newest models.
 

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Definitely going to be looking into the Infinity speakers for my first upgrade to the car. Just can't deal with the stock sound (I have the Alpine 'upgrade'). It doesn't sound the worst I've heard, but after having custom systems in all my vehicles, it's not good.

Given the Infinity speakers are 4ohm, they'll be a little louder than stock, correct? Even at 20-25 on the radio now, it's not loud enough for me - I use a USB with only 320kbps music so I know it's not that, plus it was fine in my other vehicles.
 

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Sorry for the double post, but I actually just replaced my door speakers with a set of Polk component speakers. 1000x better than stock. I ran the tweeters off of the signal for the highs from the dash corner speakers, and ran the woofers off the sound in the door. I have the Infinity speakers coming for the dash speakers on Monday, so should sound a ton better. Then, time for the bass. :)
 

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Does anyone have the pictures to removing the rear panels and deck? It looks like the pics at the beginning of the thread have been removed or expired

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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I just happen to have a PDF copy of that portion of the thread I made for myself when I was doing my speakers just in case the pictures disappeared. This sounds like what you are after...
 

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Photobucket no longer allows linking images. They want $399 a year to allow hotlinking. All the forums are talking about it. A Guy
 

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2015 Challenger - How to Install Speakers - RE: Missing Images

What A Guy says is true, but this afternoon I was tinkering around and I've found a way to get those missing photos back. As a result, I believe I can reassemble the OP's full original tutorial complete with photos in a printable PDF format. This was a very important post for me when I installed my Infinity speakers in my 2016 SXT Plus with Alpine system. I believe it should be preserved to continue to help others here.
 
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