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Here's the entire original tutorial complete with photos by 15RT in PDF format. Hopefully this will continue to help some of those here in the forum contemplating upgrades to the speakers in their stock sound systems. I personally have done the speaker upgrades and it definitely made a world of difference as far as clarity and increased bass go in my stock Alpine system. I really appreciate 15RT for originally providing this excellent tutorial for all of us!
 

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Thanks for the effort. I'm going to save it. A Guy
 

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So for those who have replaced their speakers, do I have to buy the adapter OP talked about in his setup? And if so how do I find out which one I need?
 

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Here's the entire original tutorial complete with photos by 15RT in PDF format. Hopefully this will continue to help some of those here in the forum contemplating upgrades to the speakers in their stock sound systems. I personally have done the speaker upgrades and it definitely made a world of difference as far as clarity and increased bass go in my stock Alpine system. I really appreciate 15RT for originally providing this excellent tutorial for all of us!
You sir are a hero for taking the time to do that, and OP is a hero for taking the time to initially go through and type all this out and include pictures.
 

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So for those who have replaced their speakers, do I have to buy the adapter OP talked about in his setup? And if so how do I find out which one I need?
You don't HAVE TO, but it allows you to just plug in to the harness. If you go to Crutchfield, and search by your car, they throw in the adapters, and give you the part numbers if you just want them. A Guy
 

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You don't HAVE TO, but it allows you to just plug in to the harness. If you go to Crutchfield, and search by your car, they throw in the adapters, and give you the part numbers if you just want them. A Guy
See the problem I had with them was I know the speaker sizes and when I went to their website all of them were wrong sizes for my car. They said the front was 5.75 and the rear were 6x8 I think. So I don't think it would show me the right harness either if I tried to go the route of just getting the part number from them

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I actually just bought the speakers finally then read another thread talking about the harness and I freaked out because I didn't get one lol

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Here's the entire original tutorial complete with photos by 15RT in PDF format. Hopefully this will continue to help some of those here in the forum contemplating upgrades to the speakers in their stock sound systems. I personally have done the speaker upgrades and it definitely made a world of difference as far as clarity and increased bass go in my stock Alpine system. I really appreciate 15RT for originally providing this excellent tutorial for all of us!
Amazing post! So much time and effort expended to prepare it. Thanks!
 

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Here's the entire original tutorial complete with photos by 15RT in PDF format. Hopefully this will continue to help some of those here in the forum contemplating upgrades to the speakers in their stock sound systems. I personally have done the speaker upgrades and it definitely made a world of difference as far as clarity and increased bass go in my stock Alpine system. I really appreciate 15RT for originally providing this excellent tutorial for all of us!
I have a 2015 Scat, with the Alpine 6. I have just replaced the 2 front dash and 2 door. Now I'm ready to tackle the rear. I downloaded the pdf instructions. Two questions.
1) the dash and doors were not too difficult...is the rear easier or harder?
2) The rear are two 6.5" speakers....what brand did you go back in with?
Thanks
 

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As far as difficulty goes the rear would be the most difficult due mainly to the very tight, cramped quarters in which you have to work and reach into.

I originally installed a pair of Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers in the rear shelf. This was due to the fact that that Infinity model number were the only speakers "officially" recommended for rear shelf mounting by Crutchfield for my 2016. This past Fall they had a Black Friday event and I was able to buy a pair of Infinity Reference REF-6522ex 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers which were, at the time, newly listed as an official replacement in 2015/2016 model year Challengers.

Funny you asked about this post, but last night I stayed up until 1:30 in the morning re-tearing into the rear shelf to swap these new Infinity speakers in. Not to scare you, but it was actually harder this time for some reason. I eventually got the old 5-1/4" Infinities out, but was so beat I decided to quit and get some sleep before going at it again fresh today. I also noticed two loose wires that had what appears to be a plastic plug on the end of them laying loose when I slid the package shelf down and some kind of electrical block bolted/mounted on the sheet metal just under passenger side back glass. It's not for the 3rd brake light or brakes, as I tested them, but I'm not sure if it ever was hooked up or not. It's not the defroster grid plugin either as I could see it was still plugged in. So before I can put the new speakers in and button things back up I have to make sure of what that wire is for because I definitely don't want to tear that Son of a Gun apart again. ; )

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As far as difficulty goes the rear would be the most difficult due mainly to the very tight, cramped quarters in which you have to work and reach into.

I originally installed a pair of Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers in the rear shelf. This was due to the fact that that Infinity model number were the only speakers "officially" recommended for rear shelf mounting by Crutchfield for my 2016. This past Fall they had a Black Friday event and I was able to buy a pair of Infinity Reference REF-6522ex 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers which were, at the time, newly listed as an official replacement in 2015/2016 model year Challengers.

Funny you asked about this post, but last night I stayed up until 1:30 in the morning re-tearing into the rear shelf to swap these new Infinity speakers in. Not to scare you, but it was actually harder this time for some reason. I eventually got the old 5-1/4" Infinities out, but was so beat I decided to quit and get some sleep before going at it again fresh today. I also noticed two loose wires that had what appears to be a plastic plug on the end of them laying loose when I slid the package shelf down and some kind of electrical block bolted/mounted on the sheet metal just under passenger side back glass. It's not for the 3rd brake light or brakes, as I tested them, but I'm not sure if it ever was hooked up or not. It's not the defroster grid plugin either as I could see it was still plugged in. So before I can put the new speakers in and button things back up I have to make sure of what that wire is for because I definitely don't want to tear that Son of a Gun apart agai

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too late to scare... im all done. it was real easy, took 30 minutes for the driver side 10 minutes for passenger. quite a few said it was hard, not sure why? quite a few also say do not waste time dong the rears they dont make much sound. last week when a finished the front 4, dash and door I was very disappointed... I could barley tell, I think my hearing is going, cause my friends all said, it did make a difference... small, but noticable, I could barely tell, on another forum they say 1000 times better... hmm? I almost did not do the rear, cause of the 6 those were said to be jus fillers.
WELL? I totally dissaggree!!! I used infinity kappa 62.11i TWO ohm, and im here to tell you, JUST the 2 rear deck? blow away all 4 dash / door, JBL GX 302 in dash, powerbass 6/9 in door, KAPPA in the rear....NOW, even my deaf ass can say its awesome... of the 6, if I could only keep 2? it would be the rear
I bet thise eho say rear dont do much, used 4 ohm... all 6 of mine are 2 ohm,,, using 4 is going to be a dud
I was scared going in but really the back was REAL easy... hardest part modifying the retainer ring so a 4 screws spkr go into a 3 hole socket
the entire job was under 45 minutes... what are people doing to take longer?
 

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I was scared going in but really the back was REAL easy... hardest part modifying the retainer ring so a 4 screws spkr go into a 3 hole socket
the entire job was under 45 minutes... what are people doing to take longer?
Great to hear you had a smooth go of it! I guess (for me anyway) it was a combination of me being 6'3", 230lbs, with size 13 shoes and also the fact that I'm anal about not messing anything up, especially those side air bag curtains up in those sail panels. Even though I disconnected the battery I cringed every time I pulled those panel studs out on each side thinking that I'd somehow mess up the bag system and face a 3 or 4-figure repair bill [$$$$].

I've got the 4 ohm speakers and there's a lot more clarity and, in addition, you can really crank the volume up now to well over 30 without distortion. Those stock speakers are a cheap, crappy sounding mess and you don't realize it until you swap in some aftermarket higher-end speakers!

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Great to hear you had a smooth go of it! I guess (for me anyway) it was a combination of me being 6'3", 230lbs, with size 13 shoes and also the fact that I'm anal about not messing anything up, especially those side air bag curtains up in those sail panels. Even though I disconnected the battery I cringed every time I pulled those panel studs out on each side thinking that I'd somehow mess up the bag system and face a 3 or 4-figure repair bill [$$$$].

I've got the 4 ohm speakers and there's a lot more clarity and, in addition, you can really crank the volume up now to well over 30 without distortion. Those stock speakers are a cheap, crappy sounding mess and you don't realize it until you swap in some aftermarket higher-end speakers!

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I'm cranking all way to 38, and its crystal clear...in the doors I tried 4 ohms, same speaker infinity KAPPAs (but 6 by 9), it was real low on volume compared to the 2 ohm. the stock speakers distorted at 30 ish,,but these...all the way up..so clean my girlfiend says it "hurts" with the crispy highs.
I'm with you on the anal part, I have to have each tool laid out, in order, Each part laid on a clean towel as it come out, used a feeler gauge, drew pics, wrote down the gaps between pieces, was same after, NOTHING worse than uneven gaps..a REAL careful with that flimsy felt deck, and can NOT let any of those pieces touch anything they are dirt magnets....anal hell I'm full blown OCD.
I was concerned going in, the guy at car toys, told me because I've never done this...it would be 4 hours,,,but from tool layout, to everything put away, and any tid bits of scrap in the trash..45 minutes.
BUT I know what it is...the other forum I'm on is Scat PAck ONLY...I forget on here, its not just scats..mines a 2015 scat pack. On the scats they did real good at making it take apart friendly.
 

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@janning , can you list the speakers you used please? Also, what modifications did you have to do to make them fit, if any? Thanks.

A Guy
 

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@janning , can you list the speakers you used please? Also, what modifications did you have to do to make them fit, if any? Thanks.

A Guy
Parts list for 2015 Scat pack , Apline 6 system. First off my train of thought for this is,
either do it RIGHT, spend 1000's for excellence...or try to keep it cheap price, medium quality
and have significant gain. for instance if spending $100 will get me to a 7 on a 1-10 scale,
BUT...I CAN, get to a "9"...however, its going to cost $600...I'm NOT going there. I'll stay
"a 7" with $500 in the bank.

Reference files:

2015_Challenger_How-to-Install-Speakers.pdf
CrutchfieldInstructions-2641600004.pdf

connector for dash (a must do, makes things plug n play) about $7
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071039/Metra-71-039C-Speaker-Wiring-Adapters.html

for front door or rear (get two pair if doing door and rear) about %8 each
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071050/Metra-71-050-Speaker-Wiring-Adapters.html?tp=3097

Front Dash: JBL model GX302 3.5 inch. (bout $45) Nothing special here, follow the instructions in the PDF,
takes about 15 minutes per side. Some will say you MUST completely take off that entire 5 ft long
5" wide strip nearest the window. As long as you are CAREFUL, use rags towels so nothing scrapes,
you can bend each end up (leaving middle on) plenty enough..use common sense.
[Total time..30 minutes]

Doors: 6" by 9" speakers. I originally went with infinity Kappa 693.11. For one, their connector mount is RIGHT where it will
short out on the frame, silicon and electric tape solve this..but really ? Also, be VERY VERY careful, the
connector is poorly soldered to the circuit board, and NOT mounted to the speaker frame well leaving the circuit
board as the main support. One came off, the other had intermittent connection. Also, these are NOT 2 ohm, and
sounded good, but just not enough volume...I returned them ($115).
Hours of google and stopping in at several car audio shops led me to:
Powerbass L2-693 2 Ohm, and $65 on Amazon. Car audio shops said these are underrated and put out as good or better
than Kicker. I for sure saw they put out better than the Kappa. The signal to the doors is pure bass, no treble or mid.
Optionally a pure sub would be best here. The ones I saw, were not cheap....$180+...I stayed with the Powerbass..happily.
(NOTE! with the Kappa, there is a plastic retainer the stock speakers sit in, It has a semi back to it, cup like.
I had to cut this off. With a jig saw, it was real easy...3 minutes, and its obvious how and where to cut, youll have
to see, can't miss it. Even when I returned the KAPPA, it was still fine to hold the stock again for a week.
For the powerbase, I had to cut these out a lil more, again, real easy, fast and obvious) Really, getting the jig saw
out, cutting and sweep up was the most time consuming of this all...even so, no big deal. IF you don't have a jig saw?
mmm, a hack saw, you;d have to remove the blade, and do by hand...doable, but will take a bit.
NOTE 2: for either speaker, you will have to set it in the retainer, and use a drill to make new holes for the screws.
As is, they don't quite line up. easy enough to do...IF you have a drill and bits.
[Total time..little over an hour]

Rear Deck: 6.5" speakers. This is all over the map depending on who you ask. Some say they are only "filler speakers" and do not add much
so don't bother. They are full range,so DO get a coax at least( I was told any triax will suck) I did do the front 4 and
had for one week before deciding that for under $100 more, I can do all 6...even if the rear add nothing...it won't be worse,
cause at this point, the sound I was getting from doing the 4 door/dash...eh...wasnt all that impressive...but Im only in $120ish
First I was told doing the rear was easy, then the guy at Car Toys (Dallas) said, oh no...even for us, its hard (2 hours), and if you have
never done it?...4+ hours. I started having doubts and the only speakers I could find, 2 ohm..were over $100.
Well even though the guy at car toys was scaring me with 4+ hours, they DID have 2 ohm 6.5" for $70 ..Damn infinity KAPPA!
Infinity KAPPA 62.11i and yes, they too have that piss poor connector design, and will need silicon and tape to cover.
the stock speakers are 3 bolt, the Kappa are 4. The Kappa come with a plastic retainer adapter ring. The instructions, show
putting this ring on the TOP of the speaker, well? THAT will touch the outter foam ring of the speaker. As tempted as you will be
to take this way out....NOTHING good will come of it. Using the Old screws that mount the stock speakers to the DOOR retainers (they are
shorter), take the kappa ring, and come from behind (over the magnet) up to the 4 holes in the speaker rim. BE sure to put it so as
to be able to counter sink the screw heads. You will use the small clip clamps at the TOP of the 4 spkr holes (the not magnet side)
and come from the magnet side of the speaker. The heads must counter sink, in the slots of the ring. (you's see what I mean) The ring can
only go on 2 ways...you will see the "trench" on one side where the screw heads can sink in. If you do not do this, or if you try to
screw from above (screw heads on the non magnet side), when you try to put them back in the hole the speaker will not mount flush and
touching all the way around. When done...if you are looking down at the speaker face, the sharp screw ends and small clips will be pointing
up at you, turn speaker over...looking down at the magnet, you will see the screw heads, flush sunken in the trench, of the plastic adapter
ring. For the Kappa, you will take the Metra 71-050 connector, and cut off the two small connectors, strip the wire, and put into the Kappa
+/- connector holes black is neg white is + and tighten. Now you have three holes to put it back in its spot on the rear deck.
If you used the shorter screws...they will stick up a bit..who cares? its under that felt deck (or goto Lowes and get the perfect length screw)
if you have to use the longer screws..they stick up more...I did have to on one speaker, I wrapped it in a towel and used my grinder to grind
down the length.

The above is kind of the middle part, there is still the issue of....taking apart everything to GET to the stock speakers and then putting it
back. the pdf "2015_Challenger_How-to-Install-Speakers.pdf" shows all of this. Now?...this file/instructions to into DEEP taking apart of things
Again, using common sense, wrapping things up so they don't get scratched and NOT bending things too far and breaking it are key,
For instance the instructions say to unplug the rear window defroster cable. I saw absolutely NO need for this. If I remember, I think
they even talk about taking out the entire back seat bottom!...really? WHY> ? common sense and judgment will show you what, how much and far
to take out.
[Total time..45 minutes]
 

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Thanks, sounds like quite a bit of extra work. I can see where 2 ohm would be ideal. The Infinity reference are 3 ohm. A Guy
 

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Thanks, sounds like quite a bit of extra work. I can see where 2 ohm would be ideal. The Infinity reference are 3 ohm. A Guy
It only sounds bad...written out....I could do the hole think ...all 6, in under 3 hours. The 6X9 ininity I returned I think were 3 ohm....the 6.5", I put in my rear deck.....are 2 ohm
 

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Greetings all.

I just wanted to share my experience after reading Janning's post about really using 2 ohm speakers instead of the three ohm speakers i did use. So i swapped out these

Infinity PR9603IS 6X9" 90W 3-Way Primus Series Coaxial Speaker

with the 2 ohm ones he used from powerbase as well as i replaced these
Infinity REF6522IX 6.5" 180W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair



with the 2 ohm speakers that he used as well. On both of these i think the man is right, my system is even better now, so much better that i may not have to go adding an amp route now. So thank you sir, i never thought going from a 3ohm to a 2ohnm speaker would have made such a big difference, but it did. Of course i now have like 120 dollars in big paper weight with the first two sets of speakers i purchased, but such is life.

So here is to you Janning, your advice was/is greatly appreciated.
Pardon the big fonts above guys, its only my second post on this forum and i couldn't figure out how to change the font size when i cut and pasted the old speaker descriptions from amazon.
 

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I went with 2ohm speakers as well, but used Infinity KAPPA series. I found out something pretty interesting... I have an RT Blacktop Challenger, that came with a base stereo with Uconnect. It is a 6 speaker system. Everything I researched, everything I read, said that the 6speaker system is amplified, but I could not find anywhere on my build sheet about an amp. I just assumed it must be... I have seen a lot of videos on how tos and comparison of the stock 6 speaker set up to the infinity (magnet size), and as soon as I pulled my dash speakers, I knew something was wrong. They were not 3.5 inch, but something even smaller, and the magnets were tiny. The rear deck speakers were 6.25, but the magnets were sooo small... I knew then, something was different. My car does have a 6 speaker set up, but it is not amplified.... It is not 2 ohm.... So although my speakers sound better, it is slight, and sound very under powered...

Anyway, that's my experience, all because of my mistake of thinking all 6 speaker set up were amplified... There is an even more basic, than the basic Boston Acoustic 6 speaker system... Bummer... I'll have to find a stock amp used or something. I don't want to put an amp under the seat. Was not my goal... Although, my Magnum that I don't drive has a Boston Acoustic system in it... Don't know much about that thought. Maybe I can steal that out of there!?

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Well of course it's amplified or there would be no sound >:) There may indeed be no external amplifier, but if so, it would be in the head unit. Must mean the 276 watt system just doesn't use the head units amplification, but uses a line out to the amp. A Guy
 
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