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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all,
First post here. Just bought an A8 Scat Pack 2 months ago. 6300 miles. Now has 8100 miles. Found the other morning quite a large puddle of coolant on my floor. Appears to be the infamous plastic end cap/radiator crimp issue. 5 months out of warranty, dealer says no go. FCA says no go SOL. Not too impressed with FCA's response, but I can understand being to the letter of their warranty. Gave me some line about not being the original owner. Loving the car, just not the company behind it so far. Anyway, anyone changed their radiator themselves and is it too difficult? Dealer wants better than $500 for labor alone. Thanks
 

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That $500 would be book. It doesn't take 5 hours to replace the radiator on our cars. Find a good mechanic to replace it for you and install an aluminum radiator.
 

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Hello to all,
First post here. Just bought an A8 Scat Pack 2 months ago. 6300 miles. Now has 8100 miles. Found the other morning quite a large puddle of coolant on my floor. Appears to be the infamous plastic end cap/radiator crimp issue. 5 months out of warranty, dealer says no go. FCA says no go SOL. Not too impressed with FCA's response, but I can understand being to the letter of their warranty. Gave me some line about not being the original owner. Loving the car, just not the company behind it so far. Anyway, anyone changed their radiator themselves and is it too difficult? Dealer wants better than $500 for labor alone. Thanks

I was in the same boat as you on my 2015 srt 392, I did a small write up with correct radiator, there is two of them. See if I can find it real quick. I did my own radiator and all is well.
 

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https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f89/too-late-get-radiator-replaced-dealership-649186/


https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f481/looking-replacement-radiator-two-part-numbers-649210/



That's all I got just make sure you buy oem part and get the right radiator with proper mounts there is two different ones, so don't guess, I got mine off ebay. I pulled my radiator up thru the top like a "normal" radiator swap. nothing special, I took the belt off the engine and removed a few pulley's, real simple, with simple tools and the radiator just cleared coming out, and don't worry pulling it out, you can practice and pull see what you have to remove to clear it to come out and when it's time to go back in just be gentle. it wasn't bad and I did not pull the nose off for those two stupid little bolts, I just took some time and got them out and put them back in.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I am going to look into possibly doing myself. Not sure about the coolant refill/purge procedure.
 

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Shouldn't this fall under your powertrain warranty which is 5/60? It should be covered I would hope.
 

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The powertrain seems to officially stop at the waterpump acc. to the dealer and FCA. So not covered unfortunately. I was surprised as well. FCA would not assist at all such as they provide parts and I pay labor as I suggested as an idea (even though the radiator is known to be manufacturer defective on many 300's, Scats, and Hellcats.). The car has 8100 miles and looks pretty much like showroom except for the pink fluid on the ground under the passenger side.
 

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Thanks for the help with the links and advise. Any pearls of wisdom on the refill procedure?
For refill here is what I do and have not run into any issues:
1) pull the purge plug from the water pump
2) slowly fill the reservoir until coolant spills out the purge hole (make sure car is level or at the front of the car sits a little higher than the rear)
3) install purge plug
4) fill reservoir to cold line
5) start car and let it warm up to operating temp
6) fill reservoir to cold if necessary
7) install reservoir cap
8) drive around for a couple of miles (run the heater)
9) let the car cool and refill reservoir to cold line if needed
10) repeat 8-9 until reservoir level does not change
 

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the '15+ 6.4 engines don't have the air purge plug like the 5.7s have.

the water pump design changed where the oil cooler line is plumbed to the front of the water pump and the threaded purge plug was deleted
 

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the '15+ 6.4 engines don't have the air purge plug like the 5.7s have.

the water pump design changed where the oil cooler line is plumbed to the front of the water pump and the threaded purge plug was deleted
Thanks Hal, I forgot he has a 6.4...although he still could temporarily disconnect the line and fill until it weeps out...no? :dunno:
 

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Thanks. I am going to look into possibly doing myself. Not sure about the coolant refill/purge procedure.
Don't over think this at all, folks make a big deal out of this then it really is, it's kind of funny what a big deal some of these things are made out to be from folks who don't do any mechanical work on this site.

Like the nose/clip removal- it's not even needed for two little lower bolts, so uncalled for. The top two you can get to and remove in less then two minutes, the lower passenger side you can remove with a 1/4" drive ratchet, and the drivers side is a little tighter and you have to remove part of the brake duct to get around the corner to get to the bolt. It's like the procedure for mechanics anymore require a straight on shot to bolts and nuts, what happen to getting things done without having to stair right at a bolt with perfect lighting and a mile of room to get the largest wrench on it in your tool box. I have been turning wrenches for over 30 years and seems to me these new mechanics can't figure nothing out unless there is a book wrote about how to repair step by step like they have no ability to think. But that's just me, I'm all for the easy way to get things done not interested in tearing into a car more then what's needed. Hey we need to do heart surgery on you so we are going up thru your azz to get it done....................why?.

So when I did my coolant refill, I left the top radiator hose off with the thermostat housing attached to the hose, but the hose was still connected at the radiator on the other end. The thermostat was on stand by, I filled the engine block and radiator thru the thermostat hole. once i got all the water/coolant it would take. I slipped in the thermostat into place.

Which by the way i had drill two small holes in the thermostat so coolant could flow during warm up to bleed out air. Something I have done for over 30 years on any car. make sure put the hole at 12 o clock position.

Then bolt on the thermostat housing with the two bolts. I left off the cap on the overflow and started engine, I let the car warm up with the cap off and filled as needed, let the air bubble come up and release, once the thermostat opened up I goosed it a few times to really push the coolant thru the block and push the air pockets out to the over flow and really let the coolant level drop some, filled it up and put the cap on. done.

Went and drove it, no issues at all, car stayed cool between 199 to 205 for all the driving I did.

Hope this helps.
 
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Yeah I should have mentioned the nose clip removal is not really needed despite the SM stating it has to be removed. I only removed mine because I have an intercooler installed (did not want to bend the fins) and I installed a 6.4/HC aluminum radiator on a 5.7 which needs a modified bracket on the top passenger side. That and I had to remove the headlights to uninstall the diode dynamics LED board (what a waste of money and time).
 

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Don't over think this at all, folks make a big deal out of this then it really is, it's kind of funny what a big deal some of these things are made out to be from folks who don't do any mechanical work on this site.

Like the nose/clip removal-
Was this directed at me? If it is, I didn't mean to make the swap sound like a big task. Like I said I forgot to mention that I installed a 6.4/HC aftermarket radiator on a 5.7 which wasn't difficult but removing the front clip made it so much easier to make it fit.

https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f481/better-stock-radiator-659743/index2.html#post8364547
 

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Hey guys,
I am planning to tackle the radiator tomorrow. I am going to try leaving the front clip on. Do you you guys think I will need to remove the front wheels and liner? Just trying to make plans for either just ramps or getting the front off the ground. Thanks
 

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This failure resulted in a TSB which is evidence of a "Known Product Failure"

This fact allows the service manager to warranty these items after warranty expiration.

They don't have to, they don't want to; There is limited quantities of these out of warranty adjustments.

Dodge doesn't participate in BBB Autoline, or they would make your case for you for free.

You may just want to change the radiator and move on too.

Sm-oozing the service manager may yield warranty coverage.

Take a copy of the TSB and meet face to face.

TSB: https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=519730&d=1439562383

2015 thread: https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f188/2015-challenger-radiator-issue-look-see-423617/

Here's warranty times, add 33% for customer pay

TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation
No:

07-30-10-90 6.4L Engine - Inspect Radiator Crimp
Flange, Replace Radiator, and Install
Torque-Limiting Clamp
(1 - Semi-Skilled)
7- Cooling 2.6 Hrs. 3.5hrs cust pay

07-30-10-91 6.2L Engine - Inspect Radiator Crimp
Flange, Replace Radiator, and Install
Torque Limiting Clamp
(1 - Semi-Skilled)
7- Cooling 2.7 Hrs. 3.6hrs cust pay
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Had a good conversation with both service at local dealer and FCA customer service. No luck. I think that because I am not original owner, that kept them from assisting in the matter. I live in North Carolina but bought the car out of Ohio from a GM dealership.
 

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Hey guys,
I am planning to tackle the radiator tomorrow. I am going to try leaving the front clip on. Do you you guys think I will need to remove the front wheels and liner? Just trying to make plans for either just ramps or getting the front off the ground. Thanks
Front clip can be taken off without removing wheels or liner. I used diagonal cutter to clip the heads off the plastic rivets (only need to remove the 3 front rivets - watch the paint on the top front rivet). Only reason why the wheel and liner are removed are to use a long extension to get to the mid front clip bolt which can be reach from under the car (using ramps) with a deepwell, 1/4" socket. There is also a bolt hide on the liner which can be removed by just man handling the liner. There should be a total of 6 bolts that hold the clip in place and only the fog light connector (on passenger side under washer fluid bottle) has to be disconnected. Just be really careful with the pins at the top which are made of plastic. Study the links in my previous post and you should be good to go.
 

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Just got done with radiator remove/replace. Not what I consider fun, but I did manage to do leaving the front clip on. Only casualty was the duct for the air on driver side brake was left off. I dId not have replacement plastic rivits. It won't be an issue for me because I will never road track the car. I lost a lot of pent up curse words working on the lower 2 a/c condenser bolts. My only tips for anyone else trying this is remove the belt, 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner. The fans will come out with much rotation and manipulation. Cover the radiator fins on side facing engine with cardboard and remove after fans are finagled back in place. On refill of fluid, I left the t-stat housing loose and pulled the oil cooler hose. Filled and butoned things up when the fluid flowed out. Test drove, so far so good. Hopefully saved around $600 from the out the door dealer quote. I have $250 in OEM parts. Thanks for the pointers on this guys.
 
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