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350 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Whipple installation / 2015 SRT 392 tutorial

I am posting what I took pictures of on the install, the install is not all encompassing but will give a good idea of the process.

Goes with out sayin', this is my take on the install of the 2015 Whipple kit, your results may vary. For example, I did not use the boost-a-pump, I have previously installed the ARI upgraded fuel pump unit. The instructions that came with the kit had the 30 May 2015 revision date. this kit instructions needs slight tweaking for the 15's SRT's. but overall its a great kit.

Preinstall checks
1. ensure engine is in good working order.
2. minimum 91 octane must be used after mod.
3. never operate WOT under 1/4 tank.
4. verify the kit components by doing a inventory.

items needed for install

good tool set:
including 1/4", 3/8" ,& 1/2", metric wenches, assorted drills, 3/8 " metric and SAE allen set, pinch clamp tool or adjustable pliers, drain pan for coolant. drill - air or electric, screwdrivers- standard and phillips, cutting tool to modify plastic parts. torque wrenches- both in/lb and ft/ lb.

consumables needed:
plastic rivets, plastic rivet tool, zip ties, sealant: blue loctite #242 , red loctite #271 , & green loctite #648 , carb cleaner, liquid pipe sealant, small amount of automotive grease, soldering items, heat shrink or electrical tape. 1.5 gallons of 50/50 mix coolant for intercooler system.

first thing i did was wash the car before I started the install, I like to keep a clean work area. the under hood area on my car was fairly clean, so I just used some compressed air to blow out dirt and debris from the engine area.

Remember, if you have the time, take it and enjoy the install! I did!

I am going to post the instructions from the Whipple kit and anything I did differently.

350 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
1. clean the engine bay,use compress air or steam clean if necessary.

2. download your stock tune prior to removal of power. if you have your new tune, you can install it now or you can install it after the supercharger is installed.

prior to power removal, I crack my windows about a inch just to make it easier if I ever need to get into the car.

3. remove factory gas cap.

4. open the trunk and lift the panel to access the battery.

5. with a 10mm wrench or rachet, remove the negative battery cable and move it away from the post. don't completely close the trunk since power is now removed. it'll make it easier when you go to reconnect it when done.

6. jack up the car and place on jackstands.

7. remove the factory hooodliner. this step was not necessary for me.

8. remove the front facia, the instructions whipple gave were not very good so I am adding my own from the factory tech manual

8.1 previous done- jackup the car

8.2. remove engine belly pan (4) 10mm bolts. pay no mind to the pictures reference to 7mm. i was thinking they were 7mm for some odd reason.

8.3. remove the lower front facia closeout panel, this consists of (8) plastic pushclips, (7) 7mm screws, & 2 plastic rivets -remove with 9/64" drill bit.

8.4. disconnect the facia wire harness under the washer fluid bottle on passenger side of car.

8.5. remove the 3 remaining plastic rivets on the splash shield. the 4th one was previously removed with the lower closeout panel. repeat for opposite side of car. you will have to buy replacement rivets and the hand rivet tool to replace these on the reinstall. I got mine from harbor frieght.

8.6. pull back the splash shield and remove the 10 mm bolt. repeat on opposite side of car

8.7. using a racheting 10mm combination wrench remove the hidden nut located inside on each side, see picture for location, no joke, these two are a pain in the butt!

8.8. remove both the front facia upper closeout panels, I have removed them here and am also showing the (6) plastic push fasteners

8.9. remove the 10 mm nut on both sides of the vehicle.

8.10. pull the sides of the front facia outward to disengage the retainers on each side of the car. then pull the front facia forward.

removed and ready to go.

9 &10. not applicable

11. with the engine cool remove the radiator cap and drain coolant with the pet**** on the passenger side.

12. remove the factory coil covers and store. they will not be used again.

13. disconnect the factory air temp sensor.

14. disconnect the electrical throttle connector by bulling the locking tab back and then squeezing the connector to release.

15. remove the factory air inlet tube, and (2) hose clamps with a 8mm nut driver. save hose clamps as they can be used later. remove the air temp sensor and set aside for later. the inlet tube will not be used again.

16. remove the factory air box by removing the (1) 8mm nut. for some reason I decided to just remove the upper portion of the box (3) 8mm bolts.

17. remove the 3/4" rubber breather line off the airbox.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
18. step 18 was to remove the factory steel support bracket from the waterpump housing, mine didn't have one.

19. remove the 15mm factory bolt with a deepwell socket.

20. remove the throttle body by removing the (4) 8mm bolts

21. disconnect the factory coolant temp sensor by pulling the locking tab back then squeezing the connector to release. this one was a pain for me for some odd reason.

22. remove the factory evap tube from the intake manifold and the canister. the directions for the canister state its easily accessible in previous year models(i assume) not so with the 15's, the evap canister is mounted horizontally to the back of the passenger head and the line and elbow fitting is a pain in the but to remove.

here is a picture of the canister, it's highlighted and the connection going to it. I took this picture later on in the process to give you an idea of it's location. the line and the elbow have to be remove and will not be used again.

23. disconnect the MAP sensor form the back of the intake by pulling the locking tab back then squeezing the connector to remove.

23.1. the instructions don't instruct on removing dual plane valve controller connector on the back of the intake, I am adding a picture of it once I pulled the intake off for ease of picture taking. once it is disconnected, zip tie it to a harness out of the way as it will not be used again.

24. disconnect the factory fuel line by squeezing the connector and pulling back, 6.4 is located on the drivers side.

25. disconnect the (8) fuel injector connectors by pulling the locking tabs and squeezing the connector to release.

26. remove the factory brake booster line from the back of the intake manifold and the brake booster. its easier to remove the line from the booster and snake the line through when your removing the intake manifold. also remove the electrical connector if you have a 11+ model.

27. remove the (10) intake manifold bolts with a 8mm socket and a 8" extension.

28. carefully lift the intake manifold from the engine. be cautious not to let anything drop into the open ports.

28.1.(this was not in the instructions). remove the foam baffling from the intake valley. it will interfere with the supercharger's lower intake valley.

29. use a shop vac to clean up the area and a shop rag and acetone or carb cleaner to the cylinder head to intake manifold surfaces. once clean cover with duct or masking tape to prevent anything dropping into the ports.

30. using a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar, release the tension on the sprin loaded tensioner by rotating clockwise. and remove the serpentine belt. this belt will not be used again.

31. using a pinch clamp tool( or pliers) remove both clamps for the upper radiator hose.

32. remove the t-stat housing, (2) 13mm bolts. set aside, these will not be used again.

33. remove the t-stat. mine was a little stuck in there so I used a screwdriver to pry it out. set aside, this will not be used again.

34. disconnect the (2) coil capacitor connectors from the back of the cylinder heads and heater tubes by squeezing the connectors to release.

35. remove the mounting bolt for the driver side heater hose using a 10mm socket & rachet. save this bolt for later use.

36. using a pinch clamp tool or adjustable pliers, remove the (2) heater hose clamps from the back of the engine.

37. remove the rear coil capacitors from the cylinder head (10mm socket) to remove the heater tubes from the studs(1 nut per stud). remove stud to remove heater tube support brackets. reinstall the studs in the factory location, torque to 67 in/lbs. reinstall the capacitors using a 8mm socket and factory nut, also torque to 67 in/lbs. I also used a screwdriver to help pry the heater tubes out.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
38. states to remove additional bolts securing the heater tubes to block. there were no extra bolts so this does not apply

39. reconnect the electrical connectors to the coil capacitors

40. disconnect the fan electrical connector by squeezing the electrical connector to release

41. remove the edge clip that secures the fan wiring harness to the fan by using a flathead screwdriver. this will be reused later.

42. remove the (2) 10mm fan mounting bolts with a socket & ratchet.

43. remove the (4) 13mm lower radiator mount bolts with a 13mm socket/8" extension & ratchet. the radiator/condenser heat exhanger will support it self once the support is removed. remove the fan assembly, it is a good idea to cover the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard when removing the fan assembly.

44. using a 21mm socket/1" extension and 1/2" ratchet w/ breaker bar. remove the factory damper pulley bolt.
*note. looking back at it I would have just removed the radiator earlier and just let the condensor/heat exhanger be by itself.

Here's where I decided to remove the radiator, there is no way with my tools I could drill the damper with the radiator in the way without messing it up.

44.1 remove the crash bar cover there are (3) plastic push clips (noted with circles), and (8) interference fit support clips(noted with rectangles) to be undone.

44.2 remove the temp sensor by removing the (1) plastic pushclip and the plastic clip. set the temp sensor out of the way.

44.3 remove the plastic shroud by removing the (4) plastic clips.
carefully pull the shroud out

44.4 remove the radiator from the condensor/heat exchanger by removing the lower radiator hose. expect some more coolant to come out when you disconnect it. then unbolt the radiator from the heat exhanger. there are (2) 10mm bolts. before you separate everything, it is a good idea to put cardboard on the fin surfaces to prevent any damage while moving things around.

removed and free access for the crank pinning.

45. clean the damper by blowing it clean with compressed air.

46. install the 14mm stud into the crank with the pinning tool, tighten down the bolt so it is snug and won't move while drilling

47. Use the supplied 1/4" drill bit and drill the 2 holes preset on the pinning tool. drill until the bit hits it's preset stop. blow the debris once complete and remove the pinning tool and stud.

48. install the supplied 1/4" dowel pins with a generous amount of green #648 loctite. ensure the pins are in at least flush. I tapped mine in until they were all the way recessed.

49. apply antiseize to the factory damper pulley bolt, using a 21mm socket and torque wrench torque the bolt to 129 ft/lbs. **ENSURE THE BALANCER DOES NOT ROTATE WHILE TORQUING.

50. reinstall the radiator to the condensor/heat exhanger. then reinstall the electric fan, be sure the radiator fins are still covered when reinstalling the electric fan. reinstall the lower radiator hose as well.

51. reconnect the factory fan connector back to the electric fan. reinstall the edge clip to secure the wire harness.

52. reinstall the factory lower radiator support by installing the (4)13mm bolts.

54. remove the driver side front fascia bumper support by removing the (2) 10mm mounting bolts.

55. if you have not removed the airbox yet, remove it now, (1) 10mm bolt. if there was a lower foam ring below the box remove it now as well. mine didn't have one.

56. prepare the intercooler reservior tank assembly by gathering the items needed:
I. (1) aluminum reservoir
II. (3) rubber gommets
III. (3) 10mm spacers
IV. (1) t-bolt clamp
V. (1) 1/8" x 1" x 6" rubber strip
VI. (1) tank pump hose assy HEMI-1303
VII. (1) tank vent hose assy HEMI-1305
VIII. (1) filler neck hose assy HEMI-1302.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
57. press the (3) rubber gommets into the mounting bracket holes. ensure the grommets are fully seated on both sides.

58. press the three metal spacers until flush. I used a little silicon to lube the into place. they slid right in

59. set the reservoir on its flat side with the pump bracket facing towards you.

60. locate the T-nut clamp, remove the nut using a 11mm wrench, and thread the t-nut clamp, screw first, threw the reservoir bracket as shown.

61. ensure the clamp is routed and the screw is pointed to the right like the picture above.

62. wrap the rubber strip around the intercooler pump with the gap towards the outlet port as shown.

63. with the reservoir pump bracket facing up, lay the intercooler pump in the saddle in the bracket as shown. The pump motor should be in direct contact with the bracket and teh rubber strip should be nearly touching on either side.

64. rotate the pump so the outlet port is parallel with the bottom of the reservoir and positioned axial so the split-line between the pump motor and the pump head aligns with the edge of the bracket as shown.

65. install the nut you might need to slightly compress the clamp with a set of channel lock pliers to start the threads.

66. Tighten the nut until one to two full threads protrude from the end of the nut. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AS YOU WILL DAMAGE THE PUMP! I know the pictures here show it past that, I have since then loosened it up to two threads showing.

67. with the pump installed correctly, the reservoir should appear as shown.

68. Locate the tank- pump hose assy HEMI-1303 postition the tank as shown.

69. install the spring clamps 2 inches from the hose ends as shown.

70 & 71. remove the pump inlet cap and install the pump inlet end of the hose first, making sure the hose is fully seated. install the reservoir outlet end of the hose, again making sure the hose is fully seated. move the spring clamps to 1/4" from the end of the hose. position the clamps as shown for future easy access, should the need arise.

73-78. locate the tank vent hose HEMI-1305 & filler neck tank hose assy HEMI-1302. install the hose clamp 2" from each end.
install both hoses onto the tank reservoir.

79. locate the hemi LTR bolt bag(HEMI-1104); the intercooler reservoir subassembly just completed, and the bumper bracket and one long M6 screw previously removed. place near car for assembly.

79.1 this is addition steps required becuase of the added drivers side plastic lower dam assembly on the 15'+ vehicles. once removed from the vehicle you will be required to cut the plastic to allow the reservoir hose though. below is a template and the pictures of the items cut. there are 4 plastic pushclips that require removal to remove the plastic dam.

template of required cutout area.

4 plastic pushclips required for removal.

NOTE: when you reinstall the plastic dam piece, the two upper plastic clips are not required as they will interfere with the fitment of the reservoir assembly.

required cuts completed. - once cut reinstall plastic dam and install the two horizontal push clips.

80. locate (2 of 3) 8 x 25mm socket headcap screws and washers. install one each as shown.

81-87. install the reservoir directly below the airbox inlet cutout. route the 3/8" & 3/4" hose thought the hole cut and route up towards the back of the engine. lift the reservoir into place ensuring the fowardbracket fits into the gap at the back of the bumper and losely install a flat washer and nyloc nut on each of the two previously installed screws. loosely install the 3rd M8x25mm socket head screw with a M8 flat washer. loosely install a M8 flat washer and nyloc nut from below.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
88. with a 6mm hex, torque down all (3) to 80 in/lb, do not over tighten or you will crush the spacers.

89. install the fascia bracket previously removed using (1) of the (2) M6 screws previously removed.

90. install the supplied (2) 6mm x16mm hex head bolts along with (3) 6mm large diameter washers. secure the top bolt using the supplied 6mm nyloc nut. tighten the bottom bolt into the factory threaded hole. torque all to 140 in/lb.

91. locate the unused ground stud on the drivers side inner fender. remove the factory nut using a 10mm socket & ratchet.

91. locate the supplied intercooler filler tee, mounting bracket and (2) 6mm flange button head cap screws. loosely assemble the filler tee to the mount using the two 6mm flange button head screw caps.

93. attach the filler tee to the ground stud and install the nut.

94. attach the filler tee assembly to the stud and reinstall the factory nut. torque to 150 in/lb.

NOTE: this is where I had problems. don't know if I had a defective ground stud or the torque specs are to high, but when attempting to torque to 150 in/lbs the ground stud broke. I had to re-engineer a ground stud to mount the filler tee to. I found a exhaust manifold stud and nuts I had. I drilled a hole and mounted (2) manifold nuts to it. one on the back side(hidden) to support the stud and the one you can see on the top. I then mounted the bracket assembly and used one more manifold nut to hold it down.
this is definately more sturdy than the stock ground nut as manifold stud is about twice the size as the stock ground stud. might not be necessary, but I know its secure.

95. alight the filler tee and tighten the 6mm button head cap screws to 80 in/lbs using a 4mm hex bit.

96&97. install the 3/4" and 3/8" reservoir hose onto the filler tee and secure each with the supplied spring clamps between the hose barb and the hose end. I cut some of the hose off the end as there was excess. be careful not to cut to much off, as the hose has to route around the factory intake box if you're using it. I test fit the box to make sure I had enough.

98. use a zip tie to to bundle the 3/8" & 3/4" hoses to the aluminum AC line as shown above.

99. (MY 2011+ using the stock airbox) notch the factory airboxto clear the now installed M8 socket head screw cap used to mount the reservoir. specifically, at the bottom front of the airbox, centered about the second rib, notched out the material between the adjacent ribs from the bottom up to the intersection of the rib with the sidewall as shown. see above picture for reference installed. see below picture for notch example. as you can see I test fit it first and did not cut out as much material on the outer side.

100. test fit the airbox to ensure the reservoir screw heads clears, and the intercooler lines don't interfere or kink.
This is where I had done the test fit earlier since I cut the intercooler lines shorter and needed to ensure I had enough slack in the line to clear the stock airbox. either way I think this step should be done at the same time the lines are being connected to the filler tee. see above pictures for reference for test fit.

101. when satified with the final hose routing add a second zip tie to secure the hoses.

102. remove the (4) inner bumper bolts on the inside of the frame rails. (2) from the driver side (2) from the passenger side.

103. relocates the factory power steering cooler. 2015+ SRT's have electric steering. so this step does not apply.

104. locate (4) 8mm flange hex head bolts from the bolt bag (HEMI-1104) and install part way to allow for bracket installation.
picture below is bolts installed completely for reference.

105. locate the passenger and driver side heat exchanger bracket. below pic is reference of each side.

106. install the heat exhanger brackets over the previously installed 8mm flange head bolts, loosely secure with the supplied (2) 8mm flange nuts to hold the brackets in place. the brackets will remain loose until the heat exchanger hardware is installed.

107. tighten all 4 flange bolts only, not the nuts, to 27 ft/lbs.

108. install the (4) grommets and aluminum spuds into the lower temperature heat exchanger.

109-111. locate the lower intercooler supply line and hose clamps, install clamps as shown. ensure spring clamp faces down for future access if needed.

112-115. locate the (4) 8mm flat head sock cap screws from the Hemi LTR shipping bolt bag. with the attached hose facing down and toward the driver side, lower the heat exchanger down between the front bumper and the air conditioner condenser just ahead of the brackets. loosely install the upper two 8mm flat head socket screw caps on each side. adjust the brackets as necessary to alight the lower holes and install the final two 8mm flat head socket screw caps. once centered. using a 5mm allen, torque the 8mm bolts to 18 lb/ft.

116. return to the four 13mm M8 flange head nuts on the heat exchanger bracket, toque the bolts to 18 ft/lbs. alternatively, you may torque the the nuts snug, plus a 1/4 turn.

117&118.. remove the intercooler pump outlet cap and install the remaining end of the heat exchanger hose assembly. ensure it is fully seated. move the spring clamp into place about 1/4" from hose end.

NOTE- since there is the addition of the drivers side plastic air dam, I found the corner was a pointed corned andneeded to be shaved down to prevent rubbing on the heat exchanger to intercooler pump hose as shown.

119. locate the heat exhanger (H/E)- intercooler(I/C) hose assembly (HEMI-1300). start at the back of the engine, route the hose(rubber elbow end first), along the existing wiring harness, under the relay box. under the ABS system and between the radiator and front cross-member.

120. install the spring clamp to the end of the hose. install the hose on the 5/8" hose barb at the top, passenger side, of the low temp H/E . secure the hose end with the spring clamp.

121. secure the I/C hose with zip ties. I modified this step zip ties by cutting and modifying the stock engine harness zip tie mounts.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
122. locate the I/C- filler neck hose assembly (HEMI-1301). install the spring clamp 2 inches from the end of the 3/4" hose. install the hose end onto the filler tee as shown and secure with spring clamp and route the hose to the back of the engine as shown.

123. remove the wiring mount from the 8mm hole on the passenger side head.

124. locate the hemi mainfold shipping bolt bag (HEMI-1102) and two heater hose tubes with installed o-rings.

125. starting with the passenger side heater tube(single 90 degree), lubricate the o-ring with some automotive grease.

126. install just behind the t-stat housing. take care not to damage the o-ring when installing.

127. install one of the supplied 8mm x 16mm flanged hex bolts to secure the heater tube. torque to 18 ft/lbs using a 13mm socket & ratchet.

128&129. apply light amount of automotive grease to drivers side heater tube o-ring, install the "S" bend tube just above the water pump drive pulley. be careful not to damage the o-ring when installing. install the supplied 8mm x 16mm flanged hex head bolt. torque to 18 ft/lbs.

130. locate the P/S heater hose assy (HEMI-1307) & the D/S heater hose assy (HEMI-1308)

131. locate the two factory heater hoses at the rear of the engine, shown with the blue painter with "PS" an "DS" on them.

NOTE- there will be residual coolant in the heater core lines. pull them down below their wall point with a container over the end to drain the residual coolant in the lines. I used a empty 1 quart milk jug.

132. remove the braided sleeve from the passenger side hose end and cut it 1" away from where the hose begins to straighten. ( note: you will need with part if you decide to go back to stock)

133-141. install the smaller hose clamps on the on the smaller size hoses as shown below. install the P/S heater hose assembly and use the larger spring clamp on the stock hose end at the back. use a zip tie to hold hose out of the way for the lower manifold installation.

142. I modified the driver side hose assembly installation. I noticed that once the hose was installed I only needed about 4-6 inches of 3/4" heater hose to mount it to the firewall mount point, so instead of modifying the stock D/S hose I just removed it. I had some spare 3/4" heater hose so I used that. below, next to the P/S heater hose is where the D/S hose wall through mount.

143. install a 6" section(supplied by me) of 3/4" heater hose and the D/S heater hose installed onto the supplied D/S forward heater hose with spring clamp.

144. installed hose clamps, smaller one on the 5/8" hose and the 3/4" gets the larger supplied hose clamp onto the 3/4" hose. I also use the stock hose clamp that was removed from the stock hose, use that to secure the new 3/4" hose to the firewall though wall mount.

145. use a zip tie to hold the D/S hose out of the way for the lower manifold installation.

146. remove the 8 coil plug electrical connectors by pulling back the locking tab and then squeezing and pulling the connector to remove from coil. remove the coils using a 10mm socket(2 bolts per coil). remove all 8 coils packs. blow out plug holes with compressed air to ensure no debris fell in. remove the 16 spark plugs with a 5/8" spark plug socket. if using a NGK plug for replacement. do NOT use antiseize. NGK plates their plugs with trivalent metal plating.

147. if you did not remove the stock air intake sensor from the intake tube remove it now.

148. install the factory air temp sensor into the supplied grommet about the #1 cylinder. on the upper intake manifold assembly.
I used a good amount of silicon spray on the grommet and the sensor body without getting it on the temp sensor. once I got the sensor halfway in I pressed the sensor in with the back side of a 1/2" extension and and tapped it in lightly with a hammer. careful not to damage the housing when doing this. I pressed it until the stop tab went slightly into the rubber grommet.

149. modify the supplied 2 bar MAP sensor by carefully removing the factory tang. use a box cutter or dremmel. I used a diag cutter and trimmed with a box cutter. see below for reference.

150. apply grease to the MAP oring and install the sensor into the back of the lower intake manifold. use the supplied 5x16mm bolts to secure to the manifold. torque to 50 in/lb

Here's were I changed the flow of the instructions for the supercharger assembly. I'll document them as I did it and the order is not sequential.

161. disassemble the supercharger form the upper intake manifold remove the (10) 6x22mm socket head cap crews(SHCS) save for use later. I had to modify a spare 5mm allen key to get the front passenger side allen out. and the 3 under the jack screw also require a allen key as well. my ball allen socket set would not work.

161.1. remove the (2) fuel rail by removing the (4) 5mm hex head bolts.

162. disasemble the lower intake manifold for the upper intake manifold by removing the (4) 6x25mm SHCS. save these for use later.

151. repeat step not needed now the supercharger/ manifold assy is now disassembled for installation.

**** edit for addition**** found this discrepancy when removing the supercharger to build the engine.

check to see if the lower intake manifold assy rubs the oil control valve(OCV) mount area by installing the gaskets and installing the lower intake manifold. feel if the front of the IM rubs the OCV mount by sliding the IM forward and back slowly, you will feel the IM raise and drop slightly, you can also press the front right and back left corners and see if it rocks any, if it does it is not flat, mine did so I had to shave .015-.020 off the top of the OCV mount are. see below for pictures of the corrected area:

rubbed area, notice the removed paint:

shiny spot of the bottom of the intake manifold where it rubbed the OCV mount area:

shaved down .020

primered, I also cleaned and primed some other bare metal areas:


152. remove the protective tape previously installed to protect the cylinder head to intake manifold surfaces. clean off surface with acetone or carb cleaner.

153. set supplied intake gaskets on the cylinder head to intake manifold surface, lining up ports and bolt holes

154. install the supplied lower intake manifold to the engine. be careful to light up each port, as well as the intake gaskets underneath. once aligned, secure the intake to mainfold with teh (10) supplied 6x22mm SHCS with a light amount of blue loctite. torque to 9 ft/lbs with the following pattern as shown. note that the heater tubes are close to the manifold, if they are touching with the intake manifold once installed, use pry bar and carefully bend away from the intake manifold. mine were fine and required no massaging, picture below shows the clearance.

at this point since there was easy access, I installed the MAP sensor connector and the EVAP hose assembly to the EVAP canister, I routed the hose and out of the way to the drivers side for connection to the supercharger assy later.

155. install light amount of of automotive type grease to the supplied T-stat rubber o-ring. install to factory location.

156. N/A- for 6.1 applications.

157. (5.7/6.4) install the supplied t-stat housing to the factory location, facing the back of the engine. secure the housing with the supplied 8x25mm SHCS. torque to 17ft/lbs.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
159. use the supplied coupler. (here's were mine was a little different, I did not use what came with the kit, it was a 1 3/4" stainless coupler with a T on it. I did not need the T so I called whipple and had them send the stainless coupler without the T.). Install the supplied 1/34" hose to the radiator and use the stock hose clamp to mount. mine had (2) a worm gear hose clamp and the spring clamp. install the 1 3/4" stainless coupler then the radiator hose, then use the supplied (2) shrink clamps over the coupler, position the shrink clamps over the over the coupler barbs. for ease of installation I test fit everything then removed the assembly to apply the heat to shrink the shink clamps, then reinstalled the assembly and hose clamps on both sides.

160. for 5.7's, same as 6.4's but a 1 1/2" line.

161-164. previously completed.

165. for boost a pump installation- N/A.

166& 67. apply automotive grease to the PCV/breather orings and the lower in intake manifold gasket. this will reduce the chance of ripping the gasket when installing the upper intake manifold gasket.

168. carefully place the upper intake manifold assy to the lower intake manifold, be careful not to slide the manifold much, as you can grab the o-ring. use the preciously installed(for shipping) (4) 6x25mm SHCS, along with the supplied (4 of 6) 6x25mm SHCS. to secure the outer portion of the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold assy. carefully install (2 of 6) 6x25mm SHCS though the 2 passages at the bypass area up front( i used a magnet pickup tool to get the screws threaded in.) Install the supplied (5) 5x60mm SHCS to the 5 center mounted holes(annotated as 14, 15, 16, 7, &17)

169. using a 5mm allen socket. torque the upper manifold bolts to 9 ft/lbs in the sequence shown in the above photo.

170. use light amount of automotive grease to all the fuel injectors o-rings. install all 8 fuel injectors to the intake manifold.

171. install the fuel rails to the the intake manifold using the (4) 6x25mm SHCS. torwue to 9 ft/lbs using a 5mm allen socket.

172. apply grease to the 6AN plug oring. install the 6AN plug to the drivers side fuel rail top open port using a 1/4" allen socket.

173. apply grease to the 6AN fuel feed fitting O-ring. install the stainless steel 6AN to fitting to the passenger side fuel rail top port using a 3/4" wrench.

174. apply grease to the (4) fuel inlet/outlet fitting o-rings. install the (4) 6AN to quick connect stainless fittings to each inlet/outlet of the fuel rails using a 3/4" wrench.

175. secure the (2) 90deg I/C fittings to the -10AN male fittings. face these slightly back. when secure the hoses should not be able to rotate around.

176. connect the factory fuel feed line to the passenger side fuel rail. press on until it clicks. pull up to verify it is locked in place.

177.install the supplied crossover fuel line to the back of the fuel rails. press on until it clicks and locks. give a pull back on each to ensure they are locked.

178. install the supplied crossover fuel line to the front of the fuel rails. press on until it clicks an locks into place. give both a pull back to verify that they are locked into place. use the supplied #10 adel clamp to the fuel line and use the factory bolt(held the factory heater tube in place) and a 10mm socket. torque to 10 ft/lbs.

180. connect all factory injector connectors until they lock into place.

181. apply generous amounts of light automotive greaseto the upper intake manifold to supercharger adapter o-ring grove and oring.make sur the o-ring is in place so it will not move during supercharger installation

182.verify the bypass oring is still in place. if it isn't, place back in grove and ensure it has a generous amount of light automotive grease applied.

350 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
183. The supercharger must be filled with oil prior to use. The supercharger is shipped without oil inside. the oil is in a seperate bottle supplied with the kit. the bottle is prefilled with the exact amout required (8 fl/oz)


a. make sure the supercharger is sitting on a flat surface.

b. remove the -6AN plug (1/4" allen and covere with a warning sticker) and fill the SC with WHIPPLE SC OIL ONLY

c. fill to the middle of the sift glass. tip from side to side.
NOTE: the W175FF compressor takes a minimum of 7.5 fl/oz and a maximum of 8 fl/oz.

d. reinstall the -6AN plug.
NOTE: after running the supercharger, the oil level will lower due to oil filling the bearings. the proper level while not running should be between the bottom of the sight glass and the the middle will vary when running and not running.

e. change the SC oil evey 100,000 miles. use WHIPPLE SC oil only.

184. carefully install the supercharger assembly to the upper intake manifold. make sure not to rip the bypass passage o-ring or the SC to upper manifold o-ring.

185. install the supplied(previous removed) (10) 6x22mm SHCS into the supercharger discharge plate to upper manifold(hand tight), using a 5mm allen, torque to 106 in/lb in the pattern shown.

186. install the supplied 6AN viton o-rings to the (6) supplied 6AN to quick connect fittings. apply light amount of grease to the o-rings. install all quick connect fittings as shown below. the short one will go to the bottom hole. also apply light grease to the o-ring of the 6AN plug and install on the passenger side of the supercharger intake manifold.

187. NA.

188. (2011+) route the premade bypass actuator 1/4" ID line to the 1/4" nipple on the bypass actuator to the 1/4" to 1/8" NPT barb fitting pre-installed on the drivers side of the manifold

189. remove the stock spring loaded tensioner and install the new one supplied using the factory fastener.



190. remove the (3) front water pump hex head bolts using a 13mm socket in preperation to install the idle plate installation. you will also have to remove the idler pulley just below the t-stat housing as noted below. the (2) lower bolts required for removal are highlighted with diamond markers. the removed pulley is circled.

191. assemble the idler bracket and pulleys as shown below for a reference picture. utilize the manual diagrams for build up. the idler pulleys are 75mm smooth idlers and the ribbed idler is a 76mm idler. leave the 76mm assembled loose as it will be adjusted once the belt is installed. install idler plate to the engine. the torque the 8mm bolts to 17 ft/lbs and the 10mm bolts to 22 ft/lbs.


350 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
192. install the supercharger pulley & spacer to pulley hub with the (4) 6x25mm SHCS bolts. using a 5mm allen socket torque to 130 in/lb. ( i recommend getting the bolts hand tight with a ratchet and torque down once the serpentine belt is installed.)

195. using the supplied 8-rib idler #36101 , replace the factory 6 rib idler pulley, reuse the factory hardware.

193. install the supplied 6 rib belt using the diagram in the manual.

194. using a 3/8" breaker or rachet and cheater bar, remove the tension on the spring loaded tensioner, open to the max position. adjust the 6-rib adjustable grooved idler pulley to its max position(toward the passenger side) torque the 1/2" 1 3/4" SHCS to 55 ft/lb, also torque the other two idlers at this time to 55 ft/lb.



196. install the throttle body to supercharger inlet using the throttle body adapter. install the inlet gasket to the inlet, throttle body adapter, followed by the throttle body gasket and then the throttlebody. use the supplied (4) 6x50mm SHCS. use a 5mm allen and torque to 65 in/lb.

197. (factory airbox) disassemble the factory airbox if not previously done (3) 8mm bolts,remove the factory air filter and install the supplied air filter and reassemble box

198. reinstall the factory airbox assembly by installing in place and installing the factory 8mm bolt.

199. reconnect the factory throttle body connector, once connected zip tie it up and out of the way of the serpentine belt.

199.1 doesn't mention the coolant temp sensor reconnection. now is a good time to reinstall it.

200. NA 6.1 application.

201. connect the supplied 3/8" ID rubber hose with the 3/8" quick disconnect(QD) fitting to the drivers side 3/8" aluminum fitting on the supercharger inlet. press until it locks into place. route the line down, just in front of the valve cover and back to the brake booster.
in the pic below it is the one with the green QD tabs

202. NA 06-10 vehicles

203. (2011+) connect the previously installed 3/8" rubber line from the SC inlet to the factory brake booster sensor install on the barbed fitting. reinstall the factory brake booster sensor into the brake booster. reconnect the electrical connector, press until it locks into place.

204. install the 5/16" EVAP line if you have not already. connect to the 5/16" QD fitting. in the picture its the bottom fitting it's easily identifiable since it is the smaller fitting and the fitting is all black.

205 & 206. NA- 6.1 application

207. install the supplied PCV valve into place. attach the 3/8" 90 deg quick connect boot to the PCV outlet and route the hose around the back of the supercharger to the inlet sided of the oil separator. also connect the SC inlet side to the of the oil separator 3/8" hose to the SC inlet 3/8" QD, in the bottom picture it is the top hose in the row of three and it routes to the forward side of the oil separator

209-211. install the supplied 3.75" to 4.25" silicon hose throttle body to intake box. secure with the (2)factory hose clamps or the supplied worm gear clamps.

212. directions say to use the factory stock intake to airbox hose with the supplied 1/2" hose and fitting. the 2015's come with a 3/4" hose. so I modified the install. I used the supplied 1/2" hose & fitting and used about a 6" section of some more of the 3/4" heater hose I had. I then cut four 1" long V slits on one end to taper down the hose. I then used some electrical tap and taped it up, then used a small worm gear clamp to attach it to the 90 deg fitting as shown below in the highlighted area.

215. reinstall coil covers. with the 2015's there is no mounting point for the coil covers as the fuel rail had the mounts the mount points for the new fuel rails are different so it is not a easily done item. I left mine off as I was never a fan of engine covers.

216- 229. are the instructions for installing the boost a pump which I didn't do, sorry. someone else will have to document this one.

350 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
230. release the 4 tabs and lift up the fuse box on the passenger side for the intercooler relay harness installation.

231. mount the relay and fuse holder. I also mounted the ground as noted with small oval. I also mounted the main power by removing the distribution power lead and mounted the power wire under it.

232-234. for 2015's the instructions are incorrect for tapping into the ignition sense.
looking at the fuse box you want to tap into the relay 59's sense power on wire, which is the gray wire. below is a reference to the relay and wire. you have to separate the fuse box to get to the grey wire on the back side. there are 6 tabs that need to be popped to separate the fuse box assembly. you will either need to solder or tap this wire with the orange I/C power sense on wire. I soldered it and since I have no C-WRAP heat shrink i just used a bit of electrical tape here( i know, not the preferred method).

fuse reference:

box separation:

intercooler power sense wire tapped:

235. instructions say to route the 2-way connector harness across the radiator support and secure with zip ties. I am not a fan of the power wiring routing across the radiator. so I routed mine to the front side above the heat exchanger.

here it is routed to the I/C pump connector

237. mock up the front fascia radiator cover. note the places it hits the I/C heat exchanger. cut out areas that interfere.

238. reinstall the front fascia assembly.
242. modify hood if required.
243. install the plastic jackshaft using the (4) rubber grommets into the predrilled holes on the cover. install the stainless bushings into the rubber grommets. secure the cover with the supplied (4) 5x12mm BHCS, use a 3mm socket.

244. refill the engine coolant. with the oil cooler attached to the top of the water pump assembly, the system burps itself.

245. fill the I/C tank with a 50/50 mix of coolant. mine filled up with a 1.25 gallons right away. once i cycled the power I added the rest as it cycled fluid through the I/C.

246. re-attach the negative battery cable and tighten with a 10mm wrench.

247. switch the ignition to the RUN position but don't start the car. the I/C pump should be running and cycling the I/C fluid. you will have to add some more as it evens out. check all the connection points for leaks.

248. if you had not previously installed the new tune install it now. once installed, start the car. let the car run for a few minute and check for leaks. the car should idle around 600-700 RPM.

249. shut off the car and check the levels of the intercooler and cars coolant system. fill if needed.

252. clean the inside of the fuel door and install the "91 octane or higher" decal.

253. if you are installing a boost gauge there is a 1/8" NPT port on the drivers side of the intake. below is mine installed. it is a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" boost gauge line fitting I got from autometer.

take the car for a test drive and check the engine and I/C coolant levels regularly after each drive for the first 1,000 miles. top off as needed.

605 Posts
Wow. Great write up. I would have done this exact mod to my car if I would have kept my 15 SRT as well. Thank goodness I just sold the car and bought a Hellcat instead. That install and the kit would have cost me around 13k installed up here in Canada.

Enjoy your new found power!!


2015 SRT
178 Posts
Car porn at it's finest. I appreciate your attention to detail. Any plans to dig into the engine and turn it up?

227 Posts
I for one can say a great, detailed write up!

Thanks for posting this, everyone that reads it will be impressed. I'm sure it took quite a bit of time to document all the steps and then do the write up.

One detail I would like more info on, how to apply the tune?

And I want to see some tire smoke...just got to smell that money...LOL

Premium Member
155 Posts
Wow Andy!!! That was awesome:thumbsup: I'm having a shop install the same unit on my car starting this week and appreciate knowing just how everything is going together, thanks to you. Thanks for taking the time to share all that knowledge with your fellow CT members.
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