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I am guessing you run that to the 2nd breather and then to the intake? If you put your 2nd intake before that and instead of running that line to the intake, just put a breather on it, you will get rid of the oil issue. That's what I did.
I too am getting oil puddled in the snout of the blower. How is it getting in there? from the hook up to Whipple catch can to one of the blower inlets?
is that where I splice in my non-vented catch can? can't make that out looking at the pictures.
 

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Not sure how it's done on a whipple but on my maggie I have it piped like the top diagram. Also I am running the catch can that is integrated in the A2speed aluminum valve covers.

 

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I too am getting oil puddled in the snout of the blower. How is it getting in there? from the hook up to Whipple catch can to one of the blower inlets?
is that where I splice in my non-vented catch can? can't make that out looking at the pictures.
That line that goes from the Whipple breather to the intake. I stopped allowing that. That's where I'm saying that I just put a breather on the end and plugged the hole in the intake. That got rid of any oil going into my throttle body.
 
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I have a 6.1 with the magnuson and I tried a breather on the on side instead of a line to the air intake and I was pushing oil out the breather and made a mess. So I scrapped that


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That line that goes from the Whipple breather to the intake. I stopped allowing that. That's where I'm saying that I just put a breather on the end and plugged the hole in the intake. That got rid of any oil going into my throttle body.
I have the whipple cai and it has a small breather filter separate from and under the cone air filter. A hose is connected to that breather and runs to the pipe under the whipple catch can. Dont see how that can cause oil going in throttle body
 

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I have a 6.1 with the magnuson and I tried a breather on the on side instead of a line to the air intake and I was pushing oil out the breather and made a mess. So I scrapped that


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I worried that might happen but even at 10 psi, I never had that issue. I route from PCV to catch can, to Whipple catch can, to breather so I think the oil gets caught prior.
 

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I worried that might happen but even at 10 psi, I never had that issue. I route from PCV to catch can, to Whipple catch can, to breather so I think the oil gets caught prior.
Getting more confused with this. I run from PVC to Billet catch can 2 Whipple catch can to one of the blower inlets. Are we talking about the same thing here? Please see attached
 

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Getting more confused with this. I run from PVC to Billet catch can 2 Whipple catch can to one of the blower inlets. Are we talking about the same thing here? Please see attached
That's is.. I put a breather on that. That eliminated any oil from going back into the whipple
 
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That's is.. I put a breather on that. That eliminated any oil from going back into the whipple
Whipple cold air intake came with the separate Breather for that.
there's no other way the oil Could be getting in except at the blower Inlet connected to the catch can.
then it drips down to the snout of the blower. I just hooked up the additional catch can and will inspect the blower intake area in a couple of weeks.
 
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Getting more confused with this. I run from PVC to Billet catch can 2 Whipple catch can to one of the blower inlets. Are we talking about the same thing here? Please see attached
Okay got 300 miles on my set up with my old Billet catch can installed. Blower snout is now bone dry. These motors produce a lot of blow by.
 
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2nd catch can

Still working on adding a second catch can to my Whipple. I have ordered a UPR Diffuser for my BT catch can. I made a mount for the catch can. I am still looking for quick connects like the ones that whipple uses. Anyone know where I can buy them? I need 3/8" NPT and 3/8" tube.
 

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Still working on adding a second catch can to my Whipple. I have ordered a UPR Diffuser for my BT catch can. I made a mount for the catch can. I am still looking for quick connects like the ones that whipple uses. Anyone know where I can buy them? I need 3/8" NPT and 3/8" tube.
Why not just use Barb connectors on the catch can and reuse the connectors that Whipple gave you for attaching to Whipple can. The fittings on the Whipple blower are 7.89 and 9.89 mm quick disconnects not 3/8. Use 3/8 fuel line for the hoses. Does your 2.9 rattle at idle?
 
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Yes it rattles!

Why not just use Barb connectors on the catch can and reuse the connectors that Whipple gave you for attaching to Whipple can. The fittings on the Whipple blower are 7.89 and 9.89 mm quick disconnects not 3/8. Use 3/8 fuel line for the hoses. Does your 2.9 rattle at idle?
Yes, it rattles at idle, especially when the A/C is on. :frown:
Thanks for the info on the size of the Whipple fittings.:thumbsup: Now I am finding the fittings online, but not ones that screw into a catch can. I will be using 3/8" barb fittings on the catch can now. I purchased 3/8" barb to 3/8" NPT for the catch can today and a few feet of 3/8" fuel hose and clamps.
 

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Yes, it rattles at idle, especially when the A/C is on. :frown:
Thanks for the info on the size of the Whipple fittings.:thumbsup: Now I am finding the fittings online, but not ones that screw into a catch can. I will be using 3/8" barb fittings on the catch can now. I purchased 3/8" barb to 3/8" NPT for the catch can today and a few feet of 3/8" fuel hose and clamps.
Dont think there is any need for hose clamps. My hoses went on tight.
Just pulling vacuum and looks better without.
 
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I just looked at the Whipple install instructions...is it really necessary to cut the hood so the pulley will clear?

Page 77, paragraph 233.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/downloads/dl/file/id/298/hemi_sc_kit_reva1r8_low_res.pdf

Yes, We had to cut a notch out of the inside layer of the hood. First, we put clay on top of the pully and the hood smashed it and the hood did not close. Next, we cut a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the pully, smeared grease on one side of it and laid it on the pulley and slowly closed the hood as far as it would go and the cardboard stuck to the underside of the hood. Last we traced around the cardboard and carefully cut thru one layer of the hood. Sprayed some white paint on it and it was all good.
 
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I just looked at the whipple install instructions...is it really necessary to cut the hood so the pulley will clear?

Page 77, paragraph 233.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/downloads/dl/file/id/298/hemi_sc_kit_reva1r8_low_res.pdf
Had To Notch my hood as well at an idle it did not rub but when wide open throttle and you let off the throttle it rubbed. Motor twists at wide open throttle.
There is at least two layers of hood in that area. I only have to cut through one layer.
I also put hood liner back in. I figure it would keep engine compartment cooler in summer(dark paint). My iat's run 40 degree above ambient. Also took out the baffles in the hood scoops to make them fully functional and removed headlight plugs.
 
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Okay got 300 miles on my set up with my old Billet catch can installed. Blower snout is now bone dry. These motors produce a lot of blow by.
Update.
Emptied catch can after 700 miles. Over 4oz of black oil. Anybody else getting that amount?
 

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For those of you in a state with emissions testing how did you fare?
I don't have a whipple but I run a magnuson with headers and I have yet to complete emissions as I have a 2015 (testing is required in 2019).

One thing I have learned is you cannot disable any of the DTCs in the tune and you can't disable the rear O2 sensors as this will cause the O2/cat monitors to show up as incomplete...and hence fail.

Everything is showing as complete but the cats and O2. For them to show as complete I have yet to perform the drive cycle to get the monitors to run. This requires some highway run time which the car rarely sees. I plan to get the required monitors to all show up as complete by spring of 2019.
 
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