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Looking for a little advice. My 2016 Challenger RT Plus has been vibrating when I brake. Dealership says I need new rotors and pads all the way around, to the tune of $1500.

First off, this seems early but what do I know? I bought the car new in July 2017, so it's only 2 years old. I have tracked it once. I did maybe 5 runs once this past summer.

Is that price nuts? If I really need a full set of brakes, is money going to be better spent on an aftermarket set? I'd be looking for something with at least the same stopping power as the OEM "Performance" brakes, ideally with a little more longevity. And I'm not looking to track this car more than maybe once or twice a year for fun.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

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In all likelihood you just need new rotors, but since you shouldn’t replace rotors without also replacing pads, that’s why they recommended both together...that and profit to made from doing both.

the OE equip is quite long-lived usually, but braking (bad)habits can significantly shorten their life spans.

Any time you have to brake hard, like from 55 down to 0, make sure NOT to just leave your foot in the pedal while sitting at the stop light or whatever. That will cook that spot on the rotors and transfer more pad material to them than can be removed in normal braking operation.

that leads to uneven thickness of rotors and vibrations when braking thereafter.

as for what to go with now, I’ll leave that to others to suggest. OEM are hard to beat, but there are many good options in the aftermarket as well.
How much it should costs depends a lot on who does the work.
 

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Can you post some pics. of you pads and rotors? I doubt your rotors are bad yet. Try a set of new pads first and install them yourself. It’s real easy and plenty of helpful vids. on Youtube. I’d also flush the brake fluid and go with DOT 4.0 at least. I run with DOT 5.1 for the occasional track day and change it once a year. I purchase the Motul fluid myself and Brakes Plus does the flush & fill for around $40. I’ve experimented with 7 different kinds of pads over the years and now sold on Stop Tech for really good street performance. Low dust too. On track days, I switch the fronts back out to the stock Brembo pads.
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
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Price does seem to be WAY up there, rear discs aren't that hard to do yourself, and OEM parts should be reasonable for the rear.
Rockauto has worse case Powerstop Street Warrior kit for the rear at under $230. Check Steve White for OEM.
 

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I had the same issue with my brakes after 25,000 miles. I replaced them myself and went with stop tech slotted rotors and street pads. they've been great after another 25,000 miles, no problems. I spent around $500-$600 for all four corners, even though the rears were fine.
 

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Looking for a little advice. My 2016 Challenger RT Plus has been vibrating when I brake. Dealership says I need new rotors and pads all the way around, to the tune of $1500.

First off, this seems early but what do I know? I bought the car new in July 2017, so it's only 2 years old. I have tracked it once. I did maybe 5 runs once this past summer.

Is that price nuts? If I really need a full set of brakes, is money going to be better spent on an aftermarket set? I'd be looking for something with at least the same stopping power as the OEM "Performance" brakes, ideally with a little more longevity. And I'm not looking to track this car more than maybe once or twice a year for fun.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Vibration (pulsing?) during braking suggests something wrong with the rotors. When I experienced with another of my cars it was due to uneven pad material deposition. The only "cure" was to resurface the rotors or replace them.

There proved to be a work around in my case. Just a bit heavier braking and the pulsing phase was bypassed. I drove the car to 150K miles miles with no issues.

But if the pulsing is too severe heavier braking may not be able to bypass the pulsing phase.

You'll have to experiment to see if a change in braking style -- while of course staying well within the lines of what is normal/acceptable so as to not cause any issues -- can help.

The other possible problem can be warped rotors. I've never encountered this condition but it is possible nonetheless.

With 24K miles the rotors are probably worn enough that resurfacing would if not have them too thin have them too close to being too thin and that's not good.

If the tires are worn say by half you might try wheel/tire balancing. Wide tires can as they wear go out of balance.

If this doesn't help then new rotors and pads are probably called for. My SOP is to replace the brake hardware with what came on the car. My experience has been the factory brake hardware delivers good service life and minimal (none) problems.

I'd advise after new rotors/pads are installed to flush/bleed the brake hydraulic system. And if the car is equipped with a manual transmission and the brake fluid is shared with the clutch hydraulic system (or if the clutch hydraulic system uses brake fluid) to flush and bled the clutch hydraulic system as well.
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
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And you haven't mentioned fronts, are they OK, have they already been replaced? How about back tires? Burnouts while footbraking DESTROY rear brakes.
 

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Yeah, it's all four corners needed they say. My tires are good, I've just had the winters put on and they're in good shape.

I'm going to pick it up and bring it to a local guy around the corner from me who does a lot of work on performance cars. If he says everything needs to be replaced, he'll quote me both OEM and what he considers superior aftermarket replacements and let me decide which way to go.

I've definitely noticed small improvements after doing some heavy braking, so it may be that the pads have left uneven deposits on the rotors. I definitely trust this other guy to let me know. My dealership has always been decent, but weirdly uneven in their diagnoses and recommendations. For example, at my first oil change, the advisor upsold me to synthetic, which I'm fine with, but the oil change after that a different advisor commented about how that's not really necessary. Which again, is fine, but you'd think they wouldn't undermine each other like that at the same service desk.

Anyhow, I'll take pics if I can. I would really really like to learn to do this type of thing myself, but my garage is a s%$# show and it's freezing outside, so it might be a Spring undertaking.

Also, I've been under the assumption I have the 4 piston Brembos for the past two years, but as of yesterday realized that the Super Track Pak comes with upgraded brakes and "performance pads", so yeah... I'm not as savvy at this as I'd like to be. :)

Thanks everyone for your help. I don't post much, but I love reading this MB.
 

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Thats friggin expensive for a regular brake job. Factory pads on my RT+ lasted 55k miles before I changed then and they were only 50% worn. Rear pads and rotors are oem for 90k miles and still look beefy. 6 speed btw.

OP its a good time to learn how to change pads. I doubt you even need to touch the rear at 25k
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Looking for a little advice. My 2016 Challenger RT Plus has been vibrating when I brake. Dealership says I need new rotors and pads all the way around, to the tune of $1500.

First off, this seems early but what do I know? I bought the car new in July 2017, so it's only 2 years old. I have tracked it once. I did maybe 5 runs once this past summer.

Is that price nuts? If I really need a full set of brakes, is money going to be better spent on an aftermarket set? I'd be looking for something with at least the same stopping power as the OEM "Performance" brakes, ideally with a little more longevity. And I'm not looking to track this car more than maybe once or twice a year for fun.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Ask the dealer for the remaining brake pad thickness in mm, as well as the brake rotor specs, including actual, machine to, and discard thicknesses.

I’m calling horse schittttttttt on the fact the dealer stated you needed fronts and rears simultaneously. I’ve only witnessed that happening on a few car models over the years, with an even more oddball situation of some rear disc brakes wearing out before the fronts.
 

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Yeah, it's all four corners needed they say. My tires are good, I've just had the winters put on and they're in good shape.

I'm going to pick it up and bring it to a local guy around the corner from me who does a lot of work on performance cars. If he says everything needs to be replaced, he'll quote me both OEM and what he considers superior aftermarket replacements and let me decide which way to go.

I've definitely noticed small improvements after doing some heavy braking, so it may be that the pads have left uneven deposits on the rotors. I definitely trust this other guy to let me know. My dealership has always been decent, but weirdly uneven in their diagnoses and recommendations. For example, at my first oil change, the advisor upsold me to synthetic, which I'm fine with, but the oil change after that a different advisor commented about how that's not really necessary. Which again, is fine, but you'd think they wouldn't undermine each other like that at the same service desk.

Anyhow, I'll take pics if I can. I would really really like to learn to do this type of thing myself, but my garage is a s%$# show and it's freezing outside, so it might be a Spring undertaking.

Also, I've been under the assumption I have the 4 piston Brembos for the past two years, but as of yesterday realized that the Super Track Pak comes with upgraded brakes and "performance pads", so yeah... I'm not as savvy at this as I'd like to be. :)

Thanks everyone for your help. I don't post much, but I love reading this MB.
When I had that uneven pad material deposition thing happen to one of my cars I tried a bedding in process (again) and there was no improvement.

But if it helps in the case of your car that's great.
 

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It’s good to try some hard braking to see if you can even out the deposits if that’s the issue. Have your guy mic the rotors. The minimum limit is stamped on the rotors. I can’t remember the number Inspect them for grooves. At least then you’ll know if it’s really needed.


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Looking for a little advice. My 2016 Challenger RT Plus has been vibrating when I brake. Dealership says I need new rotors and pads all the way around, to the tune of $1500.

First off, this seems early but what do I know? I bought the car new in July 2017, so it's only 2 years old. I have tracked it once. I did maybe 5 runs once this past summer.

Is that price nuts? If I really need a full set of brakes, is money going to be better spent on an aftermarket set? I'd be looking for something with at least the same stopping power as the OEM "Performance" brakes, ideally with a little more longevity. And I'm not looking to track this car more than maybe once or twice a year for fun.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Driving habits vary widely......24,000 seems early to me too but then again I'm the guy who never tail gates and generally rolls through corners with-out hitting the brakes every time.

We've all followed "that guy"........you know the one that seems to light up the brake lights in front of you at every bend in the road and/or he rides so very close to people in front of him he's never able to avoid braking those many time when he creeps in a little too close for comfortable driving.

Are you sure you're not "that guy"........and if you aren't the next obvious question.......who else drives your car? Might be time to talk to them about their driving habits.
 

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My fronts on my '12 R/T went 82K before replacement, but most of my miles are highway miles. My rears are still in good shape after 119K miles.
If more city type driving is done, expect pad life to be shorter.
 

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Looking for a little advice. My 2016 Challenger RT Plus has been vibrating when I brake. Dealership says I need new rotors and pads all the way around, to the tune of $1500.

First off, this seems early but what do I know? I bought the car new in July 2017, so it's only 2 years old. I have tracked it once. I did maybe 5 runs once this past summer.

Is that price nuts? If I really need a full set of brakes, is money going to be better spent on an aftermarket set? I'd be looking for something with at least the same stopping power as the OEM "Performance" brakes, ideally with a little more longevity. And I'm not looking to track this car more than maybe once or twice a year for fun.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
As others may have mentioned, front AND back pads/rotors at that mileage sounds a bit hokey to me. Front brakes ALWAYS wear faster than the rears, so it seems unusual you would have to replace both. If you can find a shop that will install premium (not OEM) components - possibly including an upgrade to the calipers - without ripping you off, that’s what I’d do. Even better if you can do it yourself of have a trusted friend help you.
 

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Take ur rotors off and take them to Napa and have them Turned. That should save you money on having to buy rotors if you don’t need them. Then just replace ur pads yourself.
 
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