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Discussion Starter #1

Getting started on suspension improvements for next year. First up is removing the rear cradle. First thing is to remove the exhaust from the cat back. Took a little coaxing with a BFH.

Next disconnect everything that attaches to the cradle. Take off the brake calipers and zip tie them to the frame and remove the rotors. Next disconnect the driveshaft and be sure to support the end. There's 3 electrical connectors in the rear that need disconnected


Disconnect and remove the shocks. I disconnected the sway bar end link so I could move it around to fish the caliper thru. Next disconnect the fuel filler neck from the tank. Careful you will get a small amount of fuel out.

Only thing left at this point should be the emergency brake cable. I found it easier to lower the cradle and the reach it from above.

Then you can get in there and pull these 2 cable ends

From this connector

Then you can lower the cradle the rest of the way and roll it out from under the car.

Next up is to press out the crappy rubber bushings and put these puppies in.

While I was under there I removed the insulation there causes rust in the fender. I also noticed this inside the wheel liner on the passenger side. Anyone have an idea what it is?


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possibly the fuel vapor cannister?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes it’s the charcoal canister
Great job Steve
Curious to see how you’ll get them suckers out
I've borrowed the press kit from another forum member so I'm hoping they come out rather uneventful. Fixing to go home and see.

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So that was really easy with the press. First up was the rear bushings.

Biggest thing was making sure everything was straight and the receiver cup wasn't sitting on one of the tabs.

Next up was the front ones. For these I had to cut the travel limiter tabs on the underside off.


Sawzall worked perfect for that, like a hot knife thru butter.


This one was a little harder to get lined up straight because your initially pressing on rubber and it wants to send the top plate crooked.



All four done within 2 hours, and honestly it only took me that long because I was taking my time to make sure it was all straight. If I did it again I think all 4 would be out in under an hour. That press is the real deal. Huge thanks to Bill for allowing me to use it!

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Going with solid bushings?


Poly.

And speaking of....does anyone know of poly bushings for a 2015+ diff? Only ones I'm finding are for the getrag and not the zf. Since I'm swapping out to a 3.09 I'd like to just replace those too while I'm in there.

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Poly.

And speaking of....does anyone know of poly bushings for a 2015+ diff? Only ones I'm finding are for the getrag and not the zf. Since I'm swapping out to a 3.09 I'd like to just replace those too while I'm in there.

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I'm curious, Is the ZF diff a direct replacement for the Getrag unit or do modifications have to be made?
 

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I'm curious, Is the ZF diff a direct replacement for the Getrag unit or do modifications have to be made?
Different mounting for the ZF - you'd have to switch over to the '15+ IRS cradle to get it to fit.

Driveshaft couplers are different style for the '15+ as well.
 
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Can anyone give me part numbers of the tool and cups for this and any ideas where to buy? I tried to find the number online that is shown on that press but no luck


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Discussion Starter #11

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got that.. what is the acual press number.. that is just the dies
 

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thanks
 

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let us know if there is an increase in nvh after the install :)
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Lol....If only life didn't get in the way. :) Tonight was my first night back at it and up next on the hit list was the upper control arms. These were easy since everything was out from under the car.


Next was dropping the diff out for it to be replaced with a 3.09. 4 bolts to remove. Supported it with jack and took the 2 back ones out first then the 2 front ones. Next was the fun part, wrestling it and twisting it enough to get slack to pop the axle out. Was definitely a knuckle buster but finally got that first one separated.

And the other one was easy.

Now I'm waiting for a couple things to arrive, lower control arm and sway bar bushings and extended lug studs. Going back to the stock sway bar so got poly for it. Once that all gets here I'll pop out the studs then replace the LCA bushings and start putting it back together. With Thanksgiving next week will probably be Monday after till I get back at it. Hope to have it back in the car by first weekend in Dec. so I can start on the front.

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Discussion Starter #19
Why are you going back to stock sway bar?
Since the Petty's bar won't fit with the coil overs I just decided to put the stock one back in and save some money rather than get a Hellcat bar. Another guy that autocrosses his Challenger with me disconnected his rear bar completely and said the car rotates better and he can get the power down sooner. So I figured I've got the adjustable end links and for now I'll see how it handles. That way if it does do better for me disconnected i won't be out the money. It may be driving styles though because i swear my rear on full stiff gave me better rotation than it did full soft. But that was also before the other mods. So maybe the shocks/springs will change that.

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Discussion Starter #20
So after coming out of my turkey coma and the delivery of some more parts it was time to get back to work tonight. Up next on the hit list was removing the hub to install longer studs and replacing the trailing arm rear bushing and lower control arm inner bushing.

First was to remove the axle from the hub to make getting at the hub bolts easier. These are the 4 bolts holding the hub on:

It is possible to get them off without removing the axle if you need to but you'll need a wobble socket. Now that the hub is out I pounded the old studs out and inserted the new ones. Removing the hub also allowed me to access the trailing arm rear bushing to press it out and replace it. I picked up a bushing press kit from Amazon for about $100

There wasn't a sleeve small enough to press out the old bushing so I used a 1 1/8" socket. Also had to remove the lower control arm from the inner mount in order to get enough room to work. Removal of this one was pretty easy.


Insertion of the new one was just as easy. Just press it in square and evenly.


Next was the control arm. This one was a little more stubborn and took a 2' breaker bar to coax it loose.



The new bushings just push right in after cleaning up the mount. A quick reassembly of everything and torque to spec and that side is done. Driver's side will be completed tomorrow.

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