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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2016 Scat Pack Challenger that was flooded with water up to the seat bottoms and now the car will not start. When I push the start button the car begins the start sequence (the power comes on and fuel pump runs) but the starter does nothing. I am looking for tips on what might be causing the issue.

Here is the information I know:

1. The flooding happened months ago and the car is now completely dried out.
2. If I jump power across the starter solenoid the starter engages and spins the engine.
3. The engine is fine and turns over freely.
4. When the push to start is depressed the dash lights up as it should and all accessories work (horn, radio, wipers, lights, etc.).
5. On the HUD the message "Service Shifter" is displayed.
6. I have not seen any other error messages.
7. I replaced the body control module and that did not fix the problem.


Are there any other modules mounted low in the car that may have failed and are preventing the car from starting?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 

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It's most likely the module that sends the input from the shift lever to the transmission telling it what gear the selector lever is set for. I'll bet the ECM is not getting the information of what gear the transmission is in if it is not in park the engine will not start. So if the shifter and or transmission are not talking to the ECU the ECU will not power the starter motor. Also check the break light switch on the brake pedal. I think that is what tells the ECU the brake pedal is being held down. The starter won't crank if that is not working, as well.
 

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1) Error code "Shifter service" visual only code read/translated into..... replace shifter mechanism mount on floor (Not the shifter knob/stem)
2) Mechanic replaced but message popped up here and there again only now with an audible ding ding. Ordered new shifter Handle to see if that works. Mechanic surprised as the knob only has LED lighting with no other parts/mechanism but thinks.... let's try that anyway. He calls Detroit but they have no explanation either.
3) Mechanic stated not to worry as it won't fail me as is. So I drive to AZ and attend SRT race school last Saturday waiting for part to come in.
4) Came back with no issues. Shift knob now replaced as of Tuesday...... no error messages as of yet.

I will update if the problem persists. Hopefully it's fixed and was a one off fluke for me only and no one else has this problem.... but if so, I hope this will help anyone else who may get the same message.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's most likely the module that sends the input from the shift lever to the transmission telling it what gear the selector lever is set for. I'll bet the ECM is not getting the information of what gear the transmission is in if it is not in park the engine will not start. So if the shifter and or transmission are not talking to the ECU the ECU will not power the starter motor. Also check the break light switch on the break pedal I think that is what tells the ECU the brake pedal is being held down the starter won't crank if that is not working as well.
Thank you for the suggestions. I have already verified that the brake switch is working but the transmission module sounds like a very plausible cause for my problem. Would you happen to know the location for that module (I'm guessing in the center console?)?

I will check it out and provide feedback on what I discover.
 

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Thank you for the suggestions. I have already verified that the brake switch is working but the transmission module sounds like a very plausible cause for my problem. Would you happen to know the location for that module (I'm guessing in the center console?)?



I will check it out and provide feedback on what I discover.


I had that problem also, I had it towed to my local dealership and they told me sometimes debris can get into it and cause that issue. It sounded like bullsh*t to me but it worked when I received it back from the dealer ??*♂


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I had that problem also, I had it towed to my local dealership and they told me sometimes debris can get into it and cause that issue. It sounded like bullsh*t to me but it worked when I received it back from the dealer ����*♂


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This would make sense. I had a BMW M5 that any time it went into high water (3x) on rainy days, it would kick into limp mode and stay this way for about 3-5 days. When I had the transmission serviced (for another reason), they said that the electrical connection going into the transmission was likely wet and when they reconnected it, they put plenty of dielectric grease. I did end up running it thru some high water on a few occasions afterwards and no limp mode. Not sure if on the Challenger that you would need to drop the tranny to do this.
 

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I am new to MOPAR ownership and I have not done any electronic work or had the console apart yet but I would guess it is under the console with the wiring harness from there to the transmission and from the module to the ECU.
 

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I have a 2016 Scat Pack Challenger that was flooded with water up to the seat bottoms and now the car will not start. When I push the start button the car begins the start sequence (the power comes on and fuel pump runs) but the starter does nothing. I am looking for tips on what might be causing the issue.

Here is the information I know:

1. The flooding happened months ago and the car is now completely dried out.
2. If I jump power across the starter solenoid the starter engages and spins the engine.
3. The engine is fine and turns over freely.
4. When the push to start is depressed the dash lights up as it should and all accessories work (horn, radio, wipers, lights, etc.).
5. On the HUD the message "Service Shifter" is displayed.
6. I have not seen any other error messages.
7. I replaced the body control module and that did not fix the problem.


Are there any other modules mounted low in the car that may have failed and are preventing the car from starting?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Did you own the car when this happened, or did you just buy it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you own the car when this happened, or did you just buy it?
I bought this car as is. It was a Hurricane Harvey car.

In total I bought three Challengers that were in the flood, this 2016 Scat Pack, a 2016 Hellcat, and a 2015 R/T. All three cars had less than 10,000 miles on them when purchased.

The Hellcat had no water in the interior and was only hydro-locked. It was an easy fix requiring only pulling the spark plugs and turning the engine over.

The R/T was almost completely under water but the only electronics damage it suffered was the radio and HUD display were shot.

This Scat Pack had water up to the bottom seat cushions. I think the previous owner may have tried to start the car while the electronics were still wet and fried something.
 

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I bought this car as is. It was a Hurricane Harvey car.

In total I bought three Challengers that were in the flood, this 2016 Scat Pack, a 2016 Hellcat, and a 2015 R/T. All three cars had less than 10,000 miles on them when purchased.

The Hellcat had no water in the interior and was only hydro-locked. It was an easy fix requiring only pulling the spark plugs and turning the engine over.

The R/T was almost completely under water but the only electronics damage it suffered was the radio and HUD display were shot.

This Scat Pack had water up to the bottom seat cushions. I think the previous owner may have tried to start the car while the electronics were still wet and fried something.

I went through this on my '10 R/TC. Water was up to the seats, and was totally dead. Power distribution by the battery was soaked, along with everything else at that level.


Insurance totaled it, due to future electrical bugs that may happen, even if they got it going, and future rust issues.


Best of luck getting it going
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks. Had me excited for min, but a bit more than I would want to risk on that. Good luck
The price of the cars at insurance auctions depends on the condition of the vehicle.

This car was really clean and it was obvious the damage was minimal so the hammer price was on the high side. If I had purchased a low mileage car in similar condition at a dealership, after taxes and other fees, I would have been in it for between $50K and $58K so I was happy with the savings.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Status Update

I am still trying to find a solution for my Scat Pack's failure to start issue. Over the weekend I replaced the shifter module which made the "Service Shifter" warning go away but I still have not gotten the car to start.

Some of the diagnostic testing I have completed include:

1. Swapped the Body Control Modules between this car and a running Challenger. The running Challenger starts with the Body Control Module from either car. This car will not start with the Body Control Module from either car.

2. Swapped the Shifter Modules between this car and a running Challenger. The running Challenger runs with the Shifter Module from either car (though it does show the "Service Shifter" warning with the Scat Pack shifter module installed). This car will not start with the Shifter Module from either car.

3. Used an ODB reader to view DTC codes. There are a litany of codes stored in history but no current codes are listed.

I am still looking for suggestions to help get my Scat Pack running.
 

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Just throwing a guess out here, check the star connectors for corrosion. You can also unplug them individually to measure the resistance (Should be 120 ohms each? I think?). Can't guarantee that will be it, but at least give you an indication of the communication network. Any bit of gangrene from water exposure on them and they're usually screwed.
 

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Yep, with water to the seat bottoms, the battery/power distribution block and main harness were all submerged. Battery probably shorted out, as mine did, along with bad connections from the water.


That's why my insurance totaled it, and I ran with the check after I finally got it. No way was I going to try and keep up with electrical gremlins that would continue to pop up.


And then the rocker rusting issue. This would have been accelerated without a doubt. Hated to part with it, but wasn't going to keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Just throwing a guess out here, check the star connectors for corrosion. You can also unplug them individually to measure the resistance (Should be 120 ohms each? I think?). Can't guarantee that will be it, but at least give you an indication of the communication network. Any bit of gangrene from water exposure on them and they're usually screwed.
I just logged on to post an update to let everyone know that I got the car running today when I saw your reply.

You were spot on. The star connectors in the trunk showed no visible signs of corrosion but once I unplugged all the of connectors, cleaned the pins, and plugged everything back in, the car fired right up.
 
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