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Go 50/50 or even stronger with the vinegar, but wash it with water and dry immediately after.
 

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I own a 2016 SP, and noticed that I have quite a lot of hard water spots on my stripes and shaker (roof pictured). Just curious if anyone knows of a technique or solution that can get these out or at least diminish them a little.

Thank you

- Rob
Got these at work from our neighbors pressure washing their trucks on the other side of the fence. Freaked out at first, thought the paint on my 2 month old drive was wrecked. Friend of mine said use white vinegar. I just used it straight with no dilution. Made sure it was dry and re-waxed the affected area.
 

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After trying a few products with no significant results, I gave up!


Nice! :banger: I always preferred paint rather than vinyl. What the whole car clear coated? I ask because a local shop told me if I wanted painted stripes they would add another coat of clear to smooth out the edges. The painted plastic chin is a nice touch as well!
 

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I've went 3 rounds with the local dealership over this. I forgot what the Chrysler help line was called but I called them too. Basically, there is no appeal process like in the past. They shut you down. I've had matte graphics before and I've never had a problem with spots on the stripes. Garage kept, 22k miles at the time, rarely caught in the rain... and they claimed it was environmental damage. Like I told the service manager... I don't think only part of my car (paint or stripes) was selectively exposed to that "environment". They only said this after they tried to buff the spots out unsuccessfully.

Well, that was dumb. I may buy another Challenger because, otherwise, I'm so happy with the car after almost 26k miles but it will not be from them. They didn't go to bat for me and ended up getting rude when they couldn't answer why the damage wasn't everywhere.

Easy fix...No more stripes for me.
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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We have extremely hard water here. That said, I try to wash my Shaker weekly, and I use Black Magic to keep my stripes and everything looking pretty. :huh:
 

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Use a Magic Eraser, wet, and gently clean the stripes and other vinyl in a one direction manner. The water spots will clean right off. I do it a couple times a year. Then, use a good spray wax to lube and protect the vinyl. I use Lucas Spray Wax and it works like a charm. :)
 
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After you wash the car use a towel to remove the standing water. Then spray on some distilled water and wipe away. Also, I use Dr. Beasley's on mine so that probably helps.
 

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Hey Dude,

I've not been on this forum in forever but got the email and saw your problem, sympathised and thought I'd send a little info.
I do a lot of detailing and before I give the advice I will say that I am not sure exactly what vinal the stripes are made of "BUT" 95% will be fine with this technique.

1st Option: Quick detailer and two microfibre clothes, wipe on, wipe off.

2nd Option: Quick Wax and two microfibre clothes, wipe on, wipe off. DO NOT LET DRY

3rd Option: Clay bar technique using basially no pressure and a LOT of spray detailer.

Last note: I've seen a lot of 10 year old cars with black factory stripes and they tend to go really bad due to UV. Some vinals will just do this and unfortunately it is just the way it is. But most will be protected or at least have the deterioration process slowed by waxing the stripes when you wax the car. HOWEVER do not leave the wax on, wipe on and wipe off immediately and only do it bit by bit (No more than the trunk lid stripe area at one time)
Just be aware that different vinals have different quailities and some may lose a little of their "matt" finish and become more satin. However in the long run, I myself would prefer a satin finish looking awesome, than a matt finish which has deteriorated.

I hope this helps.

Also: If anybody wants, I have a tip for under the fenders to keep them black longer AND stop road grime sticking in harshed climates.

All the best
 

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Hey Dude,

I've not been on this forum in forever but got the email and saw your problem, sympathised and thought I'd send a little info.
I do a lot of detailing and before I give the advice I will say that I am not sure exactly what vinal the stripes are made of "BUT" 95% will be fine with this technique.

1st Option: Quick detailer and two microfibre clothes, wipe on, wipe off.

2nd Option: Quick Wax and two microfibre clothes, wipe on, wipe off. DO NOT LET DRY

3rd Option: Clay bar technique using basially no pressure and a LOT of spray detailer.

Last note: I've seen a lot of 10 year old cars with black factory stripes and they tend to go really bad due to UV. Some vinals will just do this and unfortunately it is just the way it is. But most will be protected or at least have the deterioration process slowed by waxing the stripes when you wax the car. HOWEVER do not leave the wax on, wipe on and wipe off immediately and only do it bit by bit (No more than the trunk lid stripe area at one time)
Just be aware that different vinals have different quailities and some may lose a little of their "matt" finish and become more satin. However in the long run, I myself would prefer a satin finish looking awesome, than a matt finish which has deteriorated.

Lastly: After washing, even if you don't have time to chamois the car, still chamois the stripes. "The Absorber" is perfect for this. Using a leaf blower also saves a LOT of chamois time, especially in the grill area and wheels. Then simply chamois the remaining water off ;-)

I hope this helps.

Also: If anybody wants, I have a tip for under the fenders to keep them black longer AND stop road grime sticking in harshed climates.

All the best
 

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50/50 white vinegar and distilled water worked for me. I also had some good results using 303 Aerospace protectant.

Whatever you use, do it when the car is cool, not after you drive it or leave it in the sun.
 

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50/50 white vinegar and distilled water worked for me. I also had some good results using 303 Aerospace protectant.

Whatever you use, do it when the car is cool, not after you drive it or leave it in the sun.
i agree 100% on the sun issue. for whatever reason horz strips don't like to be worked on in the sun, never had an issue with vertical ones like on the body.
 

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This is really hard to give advice when we cannot see the severity of the spots themselves.

In general, I would start with the least aggressive method first.

1] ONR with a long nap microfiber and wipe in one direction (aerodynamically fist)

2] Lowest Aggresive clay with LOTS of slick lubricant.

3] Start with a LOW dilution of vinegar to distilled water 1:4, then 1:3, never more than 1:2.
 
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