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2016 Challenger SXT Plus
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Discussion Starter #1
For starters, been a member here since 2011, had a 2011 and only made a couple of posts. I recently purchased a 2016 SXT Plus, so I'm back.

I know this sound group stuff has been discussed a lot, I've searched quite a bit for answers but didn't find what I needed. I have a hand full of questions specifically about 2015 and later sound groups 1 & 2 that I'll post below, but to narrow things down and avoid a bunch of sideways diversions and questions, I'll say a couple of things about me, what I'm trying to accomplish, what I've figured out already on this.
Basically, I have a 2016 with all stock sound group 1 and I'm looking to add the OEM 8" rear deck mounted sub, and possibly the two small back seat side panel (under rear side window) speakers, and the needed OEM amp. That said...
everyone has different wants and desires with sound systems. I'm 61 and over the years have done a lot of various things with car stereos, I know what's available out there after market, have installed after market subs and amps in the past. I actually work for a low voltage contractor laying out sound systems for schools (gyms, football fields, cafetoriums etc) so I'm comfortable wiring power and sound and doing after market mods, but at this point all I want is a decent sounding all OEM stereo in my car. I've been a bass player for years and I do appreciate a good sounding system, but listen to country, so on the low end I just want a little extra punch and regular clean lows, and don't listen at high volumes so I'm sure the sound group 2 components will be fine for me.

I found a lot of info out there and on here about upgrading the 2008-2014 Challenger sound groups with the Boston Acoustics equipment, but I know changes were made in 2015, and like everything electronic, what you can and can't do without updating module software at the dealer continues to evolve, so I'm hoping to see if I'm going to run into any of that trying to upgrade, so I'm hoping to hear from some of you that have done some of this, or work at a dealership and may be able to shed some light on the subject.

So if I understand things correctly, here is what I know...

2008-2014 -
SG1 was 276 watt amp and 6 BA speakers
SG2 upgraded to 368 (or 376) watt amp and had 9 speakers
I read where upgrading the amp and adding the sub was plug and play, amp worked and sent power to the sub, and wiring was already in place for the sub on the deck

2015-2018
Base is no amp and 6 speakers
SG1 is 276 watt amp and Alpine badged 6 speakers
SG2 upgrades to 506 watt amp and adds thee 3-1/2" speakers (one center dash and two in the back on the sides above the arm rests) plus the 8" rear deck mounted sub (10 speakers total assuming the center dash is included in the package)

So, here is what I am starting with...
Stock sound group 1 equipment
Head unit - 68258398AG, code RA3P Uconnect 3c w/8.4" screen, have code R03P All VP3 Radios, version 18.11.07
Amp - code RD7P 276 watt amp
6 speakers are the stock blue cone "Alpine" badged Mopar speakers

At a minimum, I want to change amp to the SG2 506 watt amp, and add the OEM 8" deck sub. POSSIBLY later add the two 3-1/2" rear side speakers)

Here are my questions....

WIRING -
I climbed in the trunk and dropped the deck cover, I see the hole where the sub goes and the two 6-1/2" speakers and their wire, but didn't see any visible factory wiring to add the sub. I can't imagine Dodge making different wiring harnesses for the Challenger, I'm guessing there is a pair of wires from the amp location under the dash to the sub location, even if there's no sub connector on the end. Has anyone figured out if there is factory wiring in place to add the 8" sub in the deck on the 2015-2018 Challenger like the earlier models had? Do I have to split the jacketing on the existing wiring? Or, is there a connector somewhere in the trunk area that I'd need to add an extension harness on to get up to the sub location? Or, could it possibly be on top of the deck (under the deck covering) and I'll find it when I remove the cover to install the sub? I can run a pair of wires myself up to the amp in front if I have to, but I guess if no factory wiring is in the car for the sub, I may run into empty ports in the wiring connector on the amp where the wires would need to terminate.

If I do decide to try to tackle adding the rear seat side speakers, I'd like to think the same on the wiring for those. I know this is a stretch, but does anyone know if there is wire in place for those?

HARDWARE -
I assume the amp would be the same size and have the same plugs, just a matter of swapping them out.
I know to mount the sub I have to take out a bunch of plastic panels to get the deck cover off since it mounts from the top.
Rear side speakers... had anyone that has SG2 had the side plastic trim panels in the back seat off for some reason? Do you know if those two side speakers mount to the metal frame? I know they have little round grills which I can get, so I'd have to cut round holes in the plastic side panels for the grills to snap into, but I assume the speakers probably mount to the metal side walls as opposed the plastic cover panels.

FUNCTIONALITY -
Assuming I find a 506 watt amp with a part number listed to fit a 2016 Challenger SXT Plus, will the amp change out be plug and play like the pre-2015 models were? Will it require a trip to the dealership to tell the system the amp was changed out? I read about people having bass and volume issues and that resetting the Uconnect to factory defaults fixed the issue. Would I need to reset the head unit to default and make it "see" and communicate with the new amp and adjust accordingly, or is it that smart? If I do reset the head unit to factory default, I know it loses the presets and changes, but does it go back to the 2016 software? Would I have to download the latest software to a thumb drive and reinstall, or would it find and download the new software on it's own?

Sorry for the long post folks, but there seems to be plenty of info for upgrading the 2008-2014 models, but not much firm info for the 2015 and later models. Hopefully if we can pull in puzzle pieces from different people that have seen different parts of the upgrade, maybe this will help me and others down the road that want to upgrade. Or if you've seen other post that contain some of this info about the 2015 and later models, please point me to them.

In a nutshell, I know all the OEM part numbers of the parts needed to step up from sound group 1 to sound group 2, but is it plug and play and is there factory wire in place for the speakers (deck sub, rear seat side speakers and center dash)?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Quick update...nice day today, opened things up today, looked at what I have and don't have and answered some of my questions.

I looked for possible existing sub speaker cabling and rear seat side speaker cabling, found none. As for the rear seat side speakers, I can say without a doubt that they do not bolt on to the metal car frame. The mount to the inside of the plastic snap on side trim panels. Obviously since I don't have them the holes aren't cut out for the grills, but there are two plastic studs (with holes in the ends) that the 3 1/2" speakers will screw on to. All that's needed to install them would be the speakers and grills (you can get the grills new or used) And since there is no factory wire, obviously wire homeruns to the amp would be needed.

I pulled the amp. Mine is a 68267299AB 2767 watt amp. I found the matching amp wiring pin out on the site that's sticky pinned to the 'Car Electronics-Lights, Fuses, Audio & Video' of this site. It takes you to the Mopar site where you enter your year and platform (platform is LA : Challenger). However when I used 2016, the pinout diagram that comes up is for an amp with three connectors C1 C2 and C3 (two large and one smaller). My amp only has two connectors, a 22 pin and a 16 pin. The 3 connector amp is the 900 watt HK amp. So I entered 2015 and the amps that come up are the two connector amps. It list two amps, one Midline, and one Premium, but the premium has two 22 pin connectors, and the Midline has the 22 pin and 16 pin, so the 68267299AB is a Midline amp. The cable colors on my amp/vehicle match as well. UNFORTUNATELY, there was no wire on the outputs for the additional four speakers (center dash, rear seat side speakers or sub) So, replacing the amp with the sound group 2 506 watt amp would provide the new outputs for the new speakers, but would be feeding empty ports with no wire. So it'll require adding some pins with pigtails in the connectors (8 more wires in the 16 pin and 2 more wires in the 22 pin connector...only 4 new speakers, but the sub has both left and right inputs, so 4 wires to the sub) and of course installing the cable from the amp to all the new speakers.

The wiring pin out does identify all the pins for ALL the speakers (existing 6 speakers plus 4 new ones), SO, it's do-able to expand to sound group 2 from sound group 1, at a bare minimum with an amp, 4 new (or used) speakers and running wire to them yourself. I still haven't verified, but suspect in addition, it will still require a trip to the dealer for the code for the new amp to be flashed in for it to work properly.

So, it won't be a plug and play upgrade. With the 2015 and newer, Dodge does in fact put different wiring harnesses in various vehicles based on what sound system they are built for. I guess it saves a couple of bucks on the build at the factory, and makes it larger cost upgrade if you want to pay them to do it.

I'd still like to hear from someone that knows if it will have to have the software upgraded at the dealer for all the channels on the new amp to work.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also,one more thing. As I mentioned, I work for a low voltage system contractor, done fire alarm (some) and predominantly sound systems all of my career. While some is sound reinforcement like in gyms and high school football stadiums, a lot of it is school two way intercom. I see a lot of guys on here talking about replacing OEM speakers with aftermarket and a concern that if the replacement speakers are higher ohms they'll have less volume. This is true, lower resistance (load) causes more current flow on the circuit.

BUT, you can't really read the impedance of a speaker with a multi-meter. For a true reading on a speaker, you need an impedance meter. A voice coil on a speaker is basically a coil of wire and reading for resistance with a multi-meter you're basically just looking a coil of wire. The fact that it's wrapped around magnet (round magnet, round coil of wire but not touching) you don't see a dead short on your meter, but not real impedance. An impedance meter applies a tone on the circuit and reads the actual impedance of the speaker (or string of speakers etc). I say all that because I read all 6 existing speakers in the car with an impedance meter and each one read 4 ohms. So if you purchase 4 ohm replacement speakers, there shouldn't be any loss of sound level. Plus, none of the OEM speakers are coaxial, just single cone speakers. I thought the 6 1/2's in the rear deck were coaxial, but yesterday I shined a high powered LED flashlight thru the black dust covers and the only thing in there is just blue poly cone, no tweeter, I've seen pics online of the 3 1/2 dash speakers with the dust cover removed (both sides, top and bottom confirming the OEM part numbers) and those are just straight up paper cones as well, no tweeters. It surprises me that they produce the highs they do. No doubt coaxial replacements would sound much better,
 

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Following, because I'm about to work on this in my '19 HC. I did this previously in my '12 SRT and it worked fine. Why they don't offer the 506w/SGII option in SRTs just pisses me off.

My thoughts which anyone is welcome to debunk. What I am seeing between the two years is the same; low signal goes into amp from the head unit, high (amplified) signal goes out to the according speakers. There is no difference on the screen as far as balance, eq, etc - so I don't think a code needs be set by the dealer. The wiring harness I believe is the same for SGI/SGII as I can only find one part number. From my experience on the '12, the wires were all there at the connector to the amp so I just 'T' tapped into the according amplified signals to run new speaker wires. I believe the 'extra' speakers wires (subwoofer for example) on SGI are terminated or rolled up under the dash somewhere.

I am coming up with part number 68425658AB for the according 506w amplifier which is different than your findings. Maybe this can be confirmed or deny as correct.

Did you happen to take a photo of the back of the panel for the rear side speakers? I would love to see what that looks like before I attempt to pull mine, or otherwise drill a hole.
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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My 2018 T/A has the Sound Group II system. If any of y’all need my VIN to compare pieces parts, let me know....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Scottie, Xfinity has been down here all day, finally just came back.
Yeah looks like the 68425658AB you came up with is for the 2019 models.
I had read where the pre '15 models had wiring in place, but had heard the '15 and later didn't. Mine doesn't for sure. the only wires in the 22 pin and 16 pin plugs are the ones actively being used. The 16 pin for example connector has 8 wires and 8 empty holes. I think I've found a fix. I found an adapter cable assembly from PAC part number APH-CH01 that's really intended to add external amplifiers to the system. It's not wired for my needs, but in a nutshell, it's basically a 22 pin male to 22 pin female extension and a 16 pin male to 16 pin female extension. I'll have to cut all the wires (basically separate it into 4 connectors with pigtails) and then patch the existing wires in my harness straight through and I'll have loose pigtails for all the new pins on the new amp. Kind of a breakout jumper to plug in between my existing factory harness in the car and the new amp without cutting the factory harness.

I did take a couple of pics of the back of the 6 1/2's to record the OEM part numbers, maybe not he best pics but a couple of shots of what's existing..
981059
981060
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Greg, Thanks for the offer. I just looked up 2018 Challenger amps on ebay, and it looks like '17-'18 they changed to still a different amp. I've heard the true SG II systems have a surround setting that utilizes the center dash speaker, so maybe if this does require a reflash for the the new amp then possibly I'll get a new feature or two on the head unit.

I've found out there is a recall on my '16 for the EGR system, so maybe if I get my ducks in a row I can get the amp and speakers in, and the remote start, and get all three addressed in one trip in.

By the way your pics on the remote start came in handy this weekend as I took the top cover of the rear deck off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Greg, sometime when you're out messing with your car, if you could look and tell me what size fuse you have for the stereo amp that would be helpful. It should be fuse 27 in the trunk fuse box behind the battery, at least it is on mine, a regular 25 amp fuse.

For anyone thinking about doing this, I inserted the amp pinout charts I downloaded from the Dodge site that matched my 276 watt amp and my factory wiring. The pinout charts are dual purpose charts that satisfiy both the 276 and 506 watt amps. For the pins listed twice, the first entry is for the 276 watt amp, the second entry is for the 506 watt amp. The yellow highlights were added by me showing the wires I have (or don't have) on the connectors.

I ran across something to consider on the upgrade. These charts also list wire gauge for each pin, and pin 12 (on C1) is "FUSED B(+)", or positive 12 volts. Not sure what their wire gauge reference is, obviously not AWG, but it's clear they provided a heavier (+)12 volt power wire in the factory harness for the 506 watt amp. No doubt the larger amp pulls more current so the fuse is probably larger. The new amp would probably run on the smaller cable if the fuse is large enough, but it maybe like running a circular saw on a 50' 18 gauge Christmas light extension cord, would function but probably would be lacking power and degrade the sound quality. I'm thinking I need to incorporate a new 12 volt power source into the adapter harness I'm putting together to go between the factory harness and the amp.
981178
981179
 

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The manual doesn't differentiate between sound groups

981299


A Guy
 

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Just 1 guy's opinion, but....
I think the extreme effort to get a factory 'upgrade' all dressed up and properly flashed and such is a big waste.
I too have a SXT - these are not going to be the pristine auction cars in 50 years.
The factory systems are only a real upgrade for the stockholders.
You could get a lot more system, for a lot less money and not hurt the future value at all, with a decent aftermarket system, from the 'deck' signals outward.
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Hey Greg, sometime when you're out messing with your car, if you could look and tell me what size fuse you have for the stereo amp that would be helpful. It should be fuse 27 in the trunk fuse box behind the battery, at least it is on mine, a regular 25 amp fuse.
I apologize for the delay in replying.....I was out of town on a run on Wednesday and Thursday, then in Gatlinburg, TN with the wife and daughter Friday through today.

In any event......Fuse #27 on Yeller is indeed the amplifier fuse and additionally is a 25A......just like you suspected.
 

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mckpaul, I pulled the panel in the footwell in my '19 HC with the amplified base audio (SG1) and confirmed everything you posted here. There is in fact empty pin ports and no wires where the center, rear tweeters and DVC subwoofer would be connected. I'm even more annoyed than before that SG2 isn't offered in SRT as my '12 SRT was wired for it even if not sold with it and it only required an amp change and adding speakers.

Moving on, I think that PAC APH-CH01 is the easy solution. It could absolutely be wired to just pass through the existing speaker signals from the amp to the harness, and have the open wires to add the other speakers lines. I'm actually thinking of doing this and omitting the center dash speaker, which would leave just the 16 pin connector to configure. Looking at the photo of the harness, the 16 pin is in two pieces already and would be easy to work with. I'm going to order one and start working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Greg, thanks for the info. That's the same as mine, and looking at the connector at the amp again, the positive wire is in fact larger than the speaker wires, so at least it's wired from the factory for that.

One more question I though of...on my audio adjust screen for front-back and left-right fading I see 6 speakers and can isolate any of the 6 speakers on that screen. With sound group 2 and 10 speakers, does that screen look any different, or does it still show the 6 basic speaker locations? I'm thinking that screen may be different since the added center dash speaker adds surround.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
General info on the upgrade...I got my hands on the wiring diagram for Sound Systems - Premium 2 for a '15 Challenger. Mine is a '16, but chose '15 for the diagram since on the Dodge site the amp pin chart for a '16 was for an amp with two 22-pin plugs, mine has one 22 pin and one 16 pin. This 3 page diagram is cut up poorly into 4 pages (not by me, got it that way). Don't laugh, but I got frustrated jumping page to page and finally just printed it, cut it into 6 pieces and taped them together. Here you go....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There are only four audio feeds from the radio to the amp, front left, front right, rear left and rear right, and the amp has 6 outputs. With 6 speakers and the ability to isolate any one of the 6 speakers on the 8.4 screen, obviously the Uconnect head unit is controlling the volume, balance, fade etc by telling the amp what to do, I assume over the CAN IHS network. Adding the new amp with more channels and more speakers changes things. I'm thinking upgrading the VIN at the dealer to sound group 2 will have to tell the head unit it's controlling more channels at the amp and may change the audio display some.

While discussing the wiring diagram (on just answer) I asked exactly what to ask for at the dealer after doing the hardware update. His comment was basically that they would be adding the sales code to the VIN, but he also said "they are able to add sales codes to a particular VIN only if it was an available option for your year and model." SO, if you're wanting to do this, make sure it was an available option for your car or they may not do the update at the dealer, That seems strange to me because I though you could custom order any option on any car if you wanted to pay for a custom ordered car and wait for it.

Scottie your comment about about SG2 not being offered in SRT is why I added that info to this post. You might want to make some calls and be sure this is do-able on your model before getting too deep.

On a side note, my PAH harness came in and over the weekend I modified it and it came out really good. I'll post some pics after lunch after I get them off my phone. Meanwhile, work calls....
 

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Well I did order that PAC interface and the 506 watt amp. I should be able to hook it up on the floor of the car and test to see if it works as hoped before doing a proper install. So far the hard part is locating the rear tweeter grills. I believe the part numbers are 1189401AA and 1189404AA. I'd hate to resort to searching through salvage yards.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I luckily found a pair on ebay, and yes the part number on the right grill is 1189404AA and the left is 1189401AA. I know the speakers mount on plastic posts that are in place on the back (inside) of the plastic side trim panel above the arm rest.
981666
981667
981668
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here's a pic I found online of what they look like installed...
981669
 

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I'm thinking the challenging part will be cutting the round holes in the side panels the right diameter and in exactly in the right place.
 

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Thanks for confirming. Some of the renowned dealers on this forum keep referring me to dashboard parts and it's getting annoying. I have plenty of photos from my '17 Scat I traded in that had the SGII that look just like your photo. I immediately heard the difference in my HC with SGI which is why this is worth pursuing, and preserving the oem look. Cutting the holes doesn't bother me at all, especially after installing hood pins. I saw that auction - hoping more pop up because it would be easier to buy.
 
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