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2016 Challenger SXT Plus
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Discussion Starter #21
About the PAC harness, I took some pics as I made the modifications. I didn't think about taking pics until I had already cut some of the wires, but here are the pictures.
First, the 16 pin male and female connectors are two completely separate pieces, 16 wires on each one (colors match).
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I first determined which 8 cables would splice straight through based on the 8 cables I have existing on my car. Those are the ones that are already cut in the pic below. Then the eight that remained on the plug (that goes into the amp) are the four new pairs needed, two pairs for the two new rear seat speakers and two pairs for the dual coil subwoofer. Those are the ones bundled in the blue tape in the pic below...

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Discussion Starter #22
On the 16 pin connector that attaches to the car wiring harness I did the same thing, identified the 8 needed pass through wires and isolated the remaining 8. These 8 won't be used...
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So with the two 16 pin connectors laid end to end it's an 8 cable splice, color for color...

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Here's a pic of the 8 splices made ....

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Discussion Starter #23
On the connector on the right (that connects to the car harness) I snipped off the wires that would be unused flush with the back of the connector. I started to leave them and just cut them and tape them down, but they will connect to absolutely nothing and would just make the harness adapter stiffer and harder to bend if needed on install...

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Then I just wrapped the spliced pass thru bundle with electrical tape. So short of labeling the new pairs for which speaker they feed and marking (+) and (-) on each on, the 16-pin is ready to go

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Discussion Starter #24
On the 22-pin, there are really only 20 wires since two of the ports (pins 3 & 14) are empty and not used or needed, and 12 of the wires are already patched through...

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There is only one pair to pull out on the end that connects to the amp for the center dash speaker...

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And then one pair to pull out that won't be used on the end that plugs into the car wiring harness..

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Discussion Starter #25
So there are only 6 wires on the 22-pin harness that need to be spliced through, and again it's color for color....actually two of those six (pins 11 & 22 on the chart) say no connect so theoretically have no function, but those wires are present on the harness in the car (...I think..), so I spliced them through...
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Splices made and unused pair cut off on the car harness end....

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And finally taped up and ready to go....

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Greg, thanks for the info. That's the same as mine, and looking at the connector at the amp again, the positive wire is in fact larger than the speaker wires, so at least it's wired from the factory for that.

One more question I though of...on my audio adjust screen for front-back and left-right fading I see 6 speakers and can isolate any of the 6 speakers on that screen. With sound group 2 and 10 speakers, does that screen look any different, or does it still show the 6 basic speaker locations? I'm thinking that screen may be different since the added center dash speaker adds surround.
My screen looks like this.....it simply moves the icon in the quadrant selected. Additionally....my SG II seems to have “greyed out” the option / ability to do anything with the Surround Sound and Auxiliary Volume Offset, but I did have the unit on Sirius Satellite Radio, too....

Sorry for the crappy picture.
C768379E-7ED0-42A1-913A-BD1B07D09486.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah I think those rear side speakers are supposed to be the same speakers as the dash, and if I used OEM 3-1/2's there wouldn't be a tweeter in the vehicle, just 10 speakers with poly or paper cones. I plan to replace the two dash speakers with coaxial (maybe Kickers) and then use the same coaxials in the rear. I'm going to go ahead and put the center speaker in, will probably just use one of the side dash speakers removed and replaced. I think the head unit uses those three dash speakers in different ways, for phone or nav purposes, and the center comes into play for surround sound, and I think that feature (surround) may show up on the screen as an option to turn on or off on the audio screen after the software update at the dealer for SG2.

I'm with you on things looking oem. I know it won't sound like a system with a big amp and sub in the trunk, but as it is, it doesn't sound to bad. No doubt the added speakers and upgrading to coaxial on the 3-1/2's will sound much better, and the little sub will be enough to fill the low end for me.

On a side note, the other option I'm adding is OEM remote start, which will also have to have the sales code added to the VIN at the dealer. While talking to the tech on Just Answer about the remote start option, I asked if that option would show up on build sheets later (after they program it in) when pulled for my VIN, he said the option would in fact show up, not as factory installed, but the RPO code would be there. It should be the same for the SG2 options as well. I know it won't add a lot to the value, but in the future, someone looking to buy the car can pull a build sheet and see that's those options are there.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hey Greg, thanks! Right now, with the 6 speaker setup, surround doesn't even appear on my screen. Maybe it will after the install and dealer update.
The picture looks fine to me, I appreciate it!
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Have you considered getting AlfaOBD and doing this yourself? Based on your expertise with all of this wiring....AlfaOBD would seem to be a breeze for you....
 

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Mckpaul, great photos. I'll be following right behind you as this is what I pictured in my head. I may do the center now since the 22 pin doesn't seem too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm not going to complete the stereo upgrade until January, I want to wait until I get the remote start kit (if I'm good...for Christmas lol). The install for that requires pulling the cover off the rear shelf so that would be the time to do the wiring and sub install. But when I do get to the install I'll post the progress here.

I will however probably test the harness. I'm working on interior LED lighting. The basic bulb change outs were easy, but the ones that light up the foot area under the dash and the overhead rear seat lights will be a little more involved. The ones under the dash are already LED, but they are the off white color to match incandescent bulbs. I have fix in mind, parts in hand, to update those, and while I have the under dash cover pulled, I'll plug in the harness extension just to confirm all the existing pass-thru connections work.

Greg, haven't heard of AlphaOBD, but did a quick search after reading your post. Will have to dig deeper and do some reading on that, sounds interesting. I do have a Foxwell active OBD tool, it'll hold software for more than one manufacturer. It currently has GM installed, I need to download the Dodge software (for a $60 fee). I know the GM software could do some active inputs to the OBD system...turn things on or off for testing etc, reset fuel trim, and some things on the radio head unit, may have included setting the VIN but don't remember. But I don't think it can add RPO codes to the VIN.
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Will edit with a link to another thread...

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Just a quick update on the stereo upgrade project, it hasn't fallen through the cracks. I have a week off the last week of January and plan to finish the upgrade then. Meanwhile I've been doing research on making sure the sales codes can be updated, along with which ones need to be included so the headunit will take advantage of all 10 speakers. I've talked to 4 or 5 dealerships in driving range of where I live, got various price estimates and comfort level of audio upgrades (as compared to a few unsure, maybe looks and comments). When I get back on the project, I'll be sure and take pictures and provide any needed info I learned while doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I got the stereo update finished a couple of weeks ago. I took pics as I went, don't have a 100% complete flow of pics because I'd get caught up in work and forget to stop and take pics, but I'll post what I have and explain the rest.

First, the original system had the 6 factory speakers, sound group 1 upgrade so poly cones in the doors and rear deck but the dash 3-1/2s were paper cones. Plus, all six were just simple cone speakers, not coaxial, no tweeters, not even whizzer cones. I knew if I simply added true OEM speakers to step up to sound group 2 (adding the center dash and rear seat side 3-1/2s and 8" sub) I still wouldn't have tweeters or the highs I wanted. So the only speakers that I installed in the upgrade that aren't OEM are the dash ends and rear seat sides. For those I used Kicker 46CSC354 3-1/2" coaxials.


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Discussion Starter #35
A quick note about speaker polarity...you probably know it's important to have the polarity the same on all speakers. If you have any speakers connected in reverse polarity compared to the rest, those speakers will pulse down when the rest are pulsing up. Granted speakers are constantly moving up and down a number of times per second, but they all need to move the same direction at the same time or you lose bass response.

I say this because Dodge has a strange way of doing polarity. You can test a speaker with a 9 volt battery and some jumper leads briefly touching the leads to the speaker terminals (on a disconnected speaker). When you touch the battery in one polarity to a speaker, the speaker cone moves up, and if you reverse the polarity of the battery on the terminals, the speaker cone moves down. Rule of thumb is that when the speaker cone moves up, which ever way the battery is connected to make it move up determines which terminal is positive and which is negative (matching the positive and negative markings on the battery). I have the wiring diagram for the Premium 2 sound system, and noticed that going by the wire colors on the diagram as to what they call positive and negative and connecting the 9 volt battery to those speaker terminals with red on positive, the cone moves down.

When I sat the OEM 3-1/2 speaker and Kicker 3-1/2 side by side facing up on the work bench with terminals facing me and touched the battery leads on the terminals (using red on left and black on right on both) the cones both moved up. On the Kicker speaker, the left terminal was labeled positive from the factory as I expected to see, but the left terminal on the Dodge speaker is negative per the color of the wire on that terminal when it's installed.

Now, polarity labeling on speaker terminals is really just a reference to make sure you get them all the same. When using a battery, you're applying DC voltage, and in actual use, an audio signal is AC voltage. I'm just saying that regardless of what the speaker is labeled or what a diagram calls positive or negative, if you're adding speakers to an existing system, the main thing is that the cone moves in the same direction as the existing speakers. Using my side by side comparison on the bench of the two speakers, to make the Kicker speaker match the movement of the OEM Dodge speaker, I had to use reverse polarity of how the Kicker was labeled.

That's a long drawn out way of saying when I connected all the Kicker 3-1/2s to the amp, the positive output of the amp (per the Premium 2 diagram) had to go to the negative terminal of the Kickers, and vice versa. Don't know why Dodge does it backwards.
 

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Interesting.....
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So first, I replaced the left and right dash speakers with the Kickers. I didn't take pictures of how to remove the speaker cover panel along the front of the dash, but there are tons of pictures and youtube videos of how to remove that panel. I did take a picture of the cavity in the center where the center speaker goes....

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and also the existing left dash speaker....
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I removed both dash speakers. I had to run wire for the center speaker. I had previously purchased 60 feet of 2-conductor speaker wire from Home Depot (in wall type speaker wire, two stranded conductors inside a jacket, not lamp cord). While the left and right speakers were out, I ran a clothes hanger wire from the center hole to the left speaker hole and pulled a string between the two openings. Then I tied a nut to the string at the left hole and was able to drop it down to the floor board on the driver side. I had to remove the under dash cover first. The amplifier is on the far left wall of the car under the dash, above the left kick panel. So where this string hung down was inches from the amp. I used the string to pull a piece of wire to the center hole, and left the end near the amp rolled up under the dash with a couple of feet of extra wire left there. I'll have some amp pics later showing the wiring.

Since the left and right speakers are Kickers and since I didn't feel like the center speaker would need a tweeter, I used one of the OEM dash speakers I removed from the left (or right) to install as the center speaker. I accidentally ordered the wrong speaker adapters for the left and right dash speakers, so I just cut the connectors off the car harness and spliced about 6" of the wiring that came with the Kickers (with the spade lugs) to the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Sorry, the dash speaker install is an area where I didn't take enough pics.

Next was wiring to the rear seat speakers and sub. As I mentioned, I had 60 feet of cable. I estimated 15 feet from the amp to the sub so I cut two at 15 feet (dual voice coil sub so needs two pairs). I cut one at about 9 feet for the left rear seat speaker leaving 21 feet to go to the right rear seat speaker. I labeled each on on both ends laid them all on the ground from one starting point (that would ultimately be the amp), and taped them into a bundle. I ran all four wires down the driver side floorboard. To do this I had to remove the driver side floor side trim/kick panel...

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I also had to pull the rear seat side panels loose. I didn't remove those, just left them loose. I also had to remove the rear deck cover which meant removing the rear pillar covers. I didn't take the rear deck cover completely out, there's a seat belt going through it, so I just pulled it down and left it hanging. Really, you're supposed to completely remove the side panels to get the deck cover off, but I was able to flex it enough to get it pulled out.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
To get the wires under the carpet, I had to remove some plastic push-in plugs that hold the carpet down along the edge..
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Discussion Starter #40
You can pull those up with needle nose pliers or a big screwdriver, but it's easier if you have the tool for that, looks like a big flat screwdriver bent on the end with a notch cut in it, makes it easy to pop them out. Once they are out, you can easily tuck the wires under the edge of the carpet to get from the driver kick panel to the rear seat side cover panel

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