Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was looking for a T/A specific thread but don't see one so i figured I would post here, feel free to move if this belongs elsewhere.

I was curious as to what folks have done with the passenger side intake headlight? It seems it is just blocked off in the engine bay. I realize you don't want water and debris coming into the bay but has anyone either opened it up or connected it to the intake box? Other thoughts?

Thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,216 Posts
I was looking for a T/A specific thread but don't see one so i figured I would post here, feel free to move if this belongs elsewhere.

I was curious as to what folks have done with the passenger side intake headlight? It seems it is just blocked off in the engine bay. I realize you don't want water and debris coming into the bay but has anyone either opened it up or connected it to the intake box? Other thoughts?

Thanks
Pretty much nothing to be gained by it - opened up its just above the alternator...no need to have dust, road grime blow into that area.

To duct this to the intake box - you'd have to cross over the radiator - for a 2" opening, take a 90* bend and pipe to the opposite side - how much airflow would be gained? The driver side provides a shorter path with less bends.

The T/A intake pulls from the hood scoop, driver side headlight, plus the fender apron duct that is fed from the lower grille. There's three different pathways for outside air ducting into the air box.
 

·
Premium Member
2016 SRT
Joined
·
458 Posts
Pretty much nothing to be gained by it - opened up its just above the alternator...no need to have dust, road grime blow into that area.

To duct this to the intake box - you'd have to cross over the radiator - for a 2" opening, take a 90* bend and pipe to the opposite side - how much airflow would be gained? The driver side provides a shorter path with less bends.

The T/A intake pulls from the hood scoop, driver side headlight, plus the fender apron duct that is fed from the lower grille. There's three different pathways for outside air ducting into the air box.

And even with all that I'm disappointed with the results vs. the stock SRT airbox. Inlet air temps are not any different with those two extra openings. That's really where I thought my benefit would be. I think the adapter tube from the throttle body to the airbox should be changed from the accordion rubber to a smooth one. I'm looking for options to swap out that piece.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,216 Posts
you need to ribbed elbow to flex with engine movement.

I have a Shaker - you'd be surprised how much the engine twists under acceleration or bobs around went you hit bumps and dips in the road.

Since the airbox is mounted firmly, a tube w/o flex would pull and eventually tear the elbow or the box.

The T/A and Shaker set ups help get the air temps down faster. The older pre '15 OEM setups tended only get down to 18 -20* above ambient at best.

I've seen IAT go as high as 153*F in stop/ go traffic, go a few blocks and it drops quickly. (Shaker along with the headlight duct).

In colder temps at cruise, I'm 2-3* above ambient and in warmer temps its 5-7* above. This is 30 - 35 mph on boulevards. In slower traffic it will pick up warm air wash from the radiator around the car.

Under higher rpm, the engine is higher air flow rate and it will run cooler, vs. cruising at 1,500 rpm in high gear, which would have a slower flow rate of air through intake tract.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
I've seen a couple of degrees cooler intake temps. compared to stock (while driving of course). I popped out the passenger side cover to make the front grille appearance the same and make up for re-directing hood scoop air that used to flow over the engine. I'm not concerned about anything going in there. A lot of junk circulates from underneath and other areas anyway plus mine is a garage queen and seldom sees rain and never snow. I swear the engine temp gauge reads a fuzz cooler while in motion now.
 

·
Banned
2016 R/T Scat Pack
Joined
·
3,889 Posts
I have it open, haven't noticed any difference in dirt from when I had it closed.
 

·
Premium Member
2016 SRT
Joined
·
458 Posts
you need to ribbed elbow to flex with engine movement.

I have a Shaker - you'd be surprised how much the engine twists under acceleration or bobs around went you hit bumps and dips in the road.

Since the airbox is mounted firmly, a tube w/o flex would pull and eventually tear the elbow or the box.

The T/A and Shaker set ups help get the air temps down faster. The older pre '15 OEM setups tended only get down to 18 -20* above ambient at best.

I've seen IAT go as high as 153*F in stop/ go traffic, go a few blocks and it drops quickly. (Shaker along with the headlight duct).

In colder temps at cruise, I'm 2-3* above ambient and in warmer temps its 5-7* above. This is 30 - 35 mph on boulevards. In slower traffic it will pick up warm air wash from the radiator around the car.

Under higher rpm, the engine is higher air flow rate and it will run cooler, vs. cruising at 1,500 rpm in high gear, which would have a slower flow rate of air through intake tract.
I'm not seeing the same benefit that others are seeing. With my stock airbox on both the 2015 and 2016's were at speed between 4 to 5 degrees above ambient. When I installed my R2C Black Hex intake on the 2015, by temps went down to as low as 2 degrees above ambient. I have never seen temperatures that cool with the TA intake, in fact I've really seen no temp benefit at all. The R2C also had a smooth intake tube and I got 12 HP gain on the dyno performed baseline and mod on the same day. I got no HP gain out of the TA intake.
I'm wondering if a Hellcat hood would do more to remove engine bay heat and thus intake temperatures.


Just saying for $600+ this intake may look impressive, but from my seat, that's as far as it goes.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top