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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2017 RT m6 and I've been trying to do some research and so far here's what I know for sure that I need:

392 cam for the m6 (non mds)-purchased
Better springs- looking at the PSI LS1511ML
New retainers and spring cups- purchased
Unlocked pcm and tuner- trying to figure out which one to buy.

I have seen recommendations to get improved pushrods but that they aren't necessary, I've also seen people saying you need to get spacers but no clarification as to whether or not that's for the m6 or a8. Anyone know for sure what is needed and any other recommendations to get with this?.I do plan on getting some headers but not sure if I want to go long or short
 

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The springs you chose look good, no spacers required

you can get the PCM from Diablo, HHP or Hemifever to name the most common. You will need to choose wich tuning software you will go with to make your decsion on the tuner. HPtuners is becomming more popular but if go with Diablo you can use the Trinity to load tunes and log.

I personally wouldn't worry about pushrods, but they aren't very costly under $200 if you want to go that route.

Go with the long tube headers. You get quite a bit more out of the long tubes and it's the same effort to install.

Also you can browse the forum for this upgrade and get a lot of tips. It's been done by a few of the memebers.

Do you plan to do the work yourself or taking it to a shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The springs you chose look good, no spacers required
Okay awesome, I had a feeling I didn't need the spacers but again wasn't sure.
you can get the PCM from Diablo, HHP or Hemifever to name the most common. You will need to choose wich tuning software you will go with to make your decsion on the tuner. HPtuners is becomming more popular but if go with Diablo you can use the Trinity to load tunes and log.
I'm definitely wanting to get it on the Dyno, I gotta find a shop by me and see what they would prefer

I personally wouldn't worry about pushrods, but they aren't very costly under $200 if you want to go that route.
Considering them because I'm not sure if I want to throw on a supercharger, was looking at the hellion twin turbo kit for a while but decided against turbos because I hate that they go underneath the car.

Go with the long tube headers. You get quite a bit more out of the long tubes and it's the same effort to install.
Been reading a few posts here and there about this, saw some posts saying the long tubes are a little more difficult to get installed but add more HP and saw some saying that the shorties are nice because you retain TQ

Also you can browse the forum for this upgrade and get a lot of tips. It's been done by a few of the memebers.

Do you plan to do the work yourself or taking it to a shop?
Was having some difficulty finding posts that were fairly recent when I did Google searches for it and whatever posts I did find weren't always clear on exactly what was needed for the M6.

I'm an aircraft mechanic and would love to do the work myself but I live in an apartment and don't have a garage nor the equipment to do it myself so I will be having a shop do it
 

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Considering them because I'm not sure if I want to throw on a supercharger, was looking at the hellion twin turbo kit for a while but decided against turbos because I hate that they go underneath the car.
I seem to recall reading here somewhere that if you plan to install a supercharger, you should not install a cam. A member did that and nothing but problems getting the car running right. So ask around about that before spending all that money on a cam install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I seem to recall reading here somewhere that if you plan to install a supercharger, you should not install a cam. A member did that and nothing but problems getting the car running right. So ask around about that before spending all that money on a cam install.
That's the first time I've heard anything about that, most of the cam install posts I found typically mentioned a supercharger at one point in the future and no one said anything about not doing that. Besides it's not definite yet, after realizing that I will pretty much be hitting a little above stock srt numbers I started contemplating keeping my rt NA and getting a hellcat at some point in the future. Still not sure, either way I want some more power right now and the cam swap seems like a nice amount of power for the money
 

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Well, like I said, it's me remembering something that I read. I have no details to offer, but I wanted to say something so you'd do your homework and possibly save yourself a lot of money and a bit of a headache. If you find that it makes no difference, so be it, but if you find there is an issue at least you've been forewarned. It could have been the particular cam used, I just remember a member here having a heck of a time supercharging his car following previous mods. I think most SC kits are designed as bolt-ons for a stock motor. I'm not the expert here, a SC is just a wet dream for me.
 

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Considering them because I'm not sure if I want to throw on a supercharger, was looking at the hellion twin turbo kit for a while but decided against turbos because I hate that they go underneath the car.


Been reading a few posts here and there about this, saw some posts saying the long tubes are a little more difficult to get installed but add more HP and saw some saying that the shorties are nice because you retain TQ




There is a misconception that shorty headers provide more TQ down low than long tubes but that isn't the case. They provide better TQ down low over the stock log style manifolds but not much gain in the top end. Long tubes potentially provide more power through the entire power band over shorty and defintely not less power down low. The key is to get the correct size header 1 3/4 to 1/7/8 are good for the 5.7 leaning toward the 1 7/8 if you plan on going with a bigger cam running at higher RPMs. If you decide to go forced induction then you can go even bigger on the header as you don't have to worry about scavenging. As it was mentioned regarding cam selection. Cams are ground differently for FI due to the same reasons of not having to work with scavenging for cylinder efficiencies. The cams typcialy have a wider LSA and have longer duration and more lift on the exhaust lobe than the intake. Also, the shorties are not easier to install. You need to get the car higher off of the ground but other than that you will have the same headaches.
 
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