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I did the proper installation with my pedal commander I did the 35 feet away with the key fob 15 minutes with the driver door open did all that it was working good for about 15 minutes till I realized my check engine light flashing I pulled over did the same thing again 15 minutes door open 35 feet away just to remove it once I plugged in the original throttle plug the stock plug my car hasn’t been running the sameAs soon as I hit a red light my engine feels Jumpy like it wants to take off as soon as I turn on my car my ETc light comes onBut then comes off as soon as I drive but my driving is not the same can anybody help me I clean the throttlebody and everything still drives weird
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I did the proper installation with my pedal commander I did the 35 feet away with the key fob 15 minutes with the driver door open did all that it was working good for about 15 minutes till I realized my check engine light flashing I pulled over did the same thing again 15 minutes door open 35 feet away just to remove it once I plugged in the original throttle plug the stock plug my car hasn’t been running the sameAs soon as I hit a red light my engine feels Jumpy like it wants to take off as soon as I turn on my car my ETc light comes onBut then comes off as soon as I drive but my driving is not the same can anybody help me I clean the throttlebody and everything still drives weird
AFAIK, the pedal commander works by modifying the signal sent from the accelerator position sensor (inside the gas pedal) to the PCM. So any drivability issues you experience with the Pedal Commander installed and engaged would basically be because the PCM cannot tell with enough accuracy how far you have depressed the gas pedal (or how quickly, etc).

As such, any fix for those drivability issues would have to involve somehow cleaning, strengthening, or concentrating that signal coming out of the Pedal Commander and going into the wiring harness. Or maybe the signal going is getting corrupted and the Pedal Commander is just passing along the corrupted signal once modified.

The point is, your problem likely lies in the connection between the car and the Pedal Commander. Is the plug secured into the ODBII port? Are there any bent or corroded pins on that plug? And so on and so forth.

It certainly won’t hurt to do things like clean the throttle body or replace the air filter, but I cannot see any extraneous efforts like that actually resolving whatever is causing your problem.

And then there is always the option that the Pedal Commander itself is somehow faulty. I don’t know how you would diagnose that except to exchange it with a new one to see if the behavior stops, but good luck getting them to agree to that...🤷‍♂️
 

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Watch this Video Pedal Commhttps://youtu.be/rag8Mjeao5sanders have had issues because of its design ... Its Intermittent but this video clearly explains the cause,
Banks breaks down the ways these work and how his Product does nto have the issues you can have with Pedal commanders and yes not everyone has the issues but when they do the design is how it uses the voltage to it and what happens...


 

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I did the proper installation with my pedal commander I did the 35 feet away with the key fob 15 minutes with the driver door open did all that it was working good for about 15 minutes till I realized my check engine light flashing I pulled over did the same thing again 15 minutes door open 35 feet away just to remove it once I plugged in the original throttle plug the stock plug my car hasn’t been running the sameAs soon as I hit a red light my engine feels Jumpy like it wants to take off as soon as I turn on my car my ETc light comes onBut then comes off as soon as I drive but my driving is not the same can anybody help me I clean the throttlebody and everything still drives weird
I would reset the computers and see if that resolves the issue. If not, I'd have to think that maybe a wire or connector pin may have been damaged during the install procedure. With the Pedal Commander completely removed, everything should be back to stock. The Pedal Commander is a very simple product - it just reports a different gas pedal position to the cars computers - that is all that it does, so once it's removed, the car should 100% be back to normal - which is why I'm wondering if something was physically damaged during the install.

I'd start troubleshooting with this - disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and leave it disconnected for a few hours to make sure that all power is drained from the system. Reconnect it and see if things are back to normal. If that doesn't fix things, then I'd look closely at the pedal wiring and connectors to make sure a pin wasn't bent or a connector or wire wasn't damaged or something along those lines.

There are TONS of pedal commanders in use - it's easily the market leader in throttle controllers - and the VAST majority of users never have any issues whatsoever. Even when someone does have an issue, it's not like the video above shows - the pedal still works - the car is just in "limp mode" (worst case scenario) - at least with Challengers (can't comment on other vehicles). The video above is just advertising - it's trying to "scare" people into buying their product with non-real-world scenarios. I mean if you remove all power going to the pedal circuit, of course the pedal is not going to work. That would happen even without the pedal commander installed. :) If I understand what they are doing, the Banks throttle controller still works simply because they are also getting power from the OBD-II port - but again, even the stock system without the pedal commander would stop working if you remove all power to the 5v circuit - so that is not an issue with the pedal commander itself. The stock safety systems still all apply when the pedal commander is used. Again, that video is very misleading. I actually do like the way that you can "trim" the initial pedal sensitivity wth the Banks version though - that is a nice feature.
 

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I would reset the computers and see if that resolves the issue. If not, I'd have to think that maybe a wire or connector pin may have been damaged during the install procedure. With the Pedal Commander completely removed, everything should be back to stock. The Pedal Commander is a very simple product - it just reports a different gas pedal position to the cars computers - that is all that it does, so once it's removed, the car should 100% be back to normal - which is why I'm wondering if something was physically damaged during the install.

I'd start troubleshooting with this - disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and leave it disconnected for a few hours to make sure that all power is drained from the system. Reconnect it and see if things are back to normal. If that doesn't fix things, then I'd look closely at the pedal wiring and connectors to make sure a pin wasn't bent or a connector or wire wasn't damaged or something along those lines.

There are TONS of pedal commanders in use - it's easily the market leader in throttle controllers - and the VAST majority of users never have any issues whatsoever. Even when someone does have an issue, it's not like the video above shows - the pedal still works - the car is just in "limp mode" (worst case scenario) - at least with Challengers (can't comment on other vehicles). The video above is just advertising - it's trying to "scare" people into buying their product with non-real-world scenarios. I mean if you remove all power going to the pedal circuit, of course the pedal is not going to work. That would happen even without the pedal commander installed. :) If I understand what they are doing, the Banks throttle controller still works simply because they are also getting power from the OBD-II port - but again, even the stock system without the pedal commander would stop working if you remove all power to the 5v circuit - so that is not an issue with the pedal commander itself. The stock safety systems still all apply when the pedal commander is used. Again, that video is very misleading. I actually do like the way that you can "trim" the initial pedal sensitivity wth the Banks version though - that is a nice feature.
Banks is very reputable and not into the Market to Scare people not that company's rep or method. IF it was fake then PC could sue him for false information and hes not about to be that dumb. I have spoke to a few people in local Car Clubs and have ran across 2 people tell me they had issues while majority did not. Yet there is those who experience issues and when they did it seems everyone wants to call them a Liar or False. The Car Club members had zero to gain by a factious story they are not paid just working guys with their cars.

With that since there is a PC involved id say was it changed while driving if so that could of been the initial culprit you never change the modes while diving you have to be to a complete stop. If you did not then remove that device, reset as said with power off and reset after a period of time, If that does not resolve check wiring and fuses. IF nothing then a Shop visit would be next best to ODBII scan the vehicle see whats up.
 
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