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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All,

I know this a subject that has been covered in several threads but here goes another. I am in the planning stage of upgrading my 6 speakers system, here are my tentative plans:

1. Remove all existing "Alpine" speakers
2. Install a pair of JL Audio C2-350X 3 1/2"two-way in the dash corners
3. Install a pair of JL Audio C2-650 6 1/2" components in the doors
4. Install a pair of JL Audio C2-650X 6 1/2" two-way in the rear deck
5. Install a JL Audio 8W3V3-4 8" subwoofer in the center of the rear deck
6. Install a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 Digital Sound Processor via idatalink HRN-AR-CH2 T-Harness with an idatalink HRN-AR-EXT4 and HRN-AR-EXT2 extensions.
7. Install a Polk Audio PA250.2 2 channel amplifier to drive dash corner speakers
8. Install a Polk Audio PA1100.5 5 channel amplifier to drive doors, rear deck coaxials and sub.
9. Fabricate a custom enclosure to incorporate into the upper trunk/rear deck interior trim panel.
10. Fabricate a custom base to mount amps, LOC, existing compressor and associated power and audio wiring in spare well in place of existing foam block.


I am open to any feedback as I am no expert and I'm sure there are many audiophiles on here with a lot more knowledge and expertise than me.
 

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Why not go with the Maestro AR and Rockford DSR1? I would rather do that that have to start cutting wires or unpinning harnesses. Pac Audio also has a unit that will give you the RCA outs without any cutting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
F8Dragon, I'll have a look but I was under the impression (maybe incorrectly) that this was the only option where I could retain all factory functions, is this not correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info...I had a look at the Maestro and Rockford units, won't work in my application due to their digital output versus RCA. My plan is to not cut anything just unpin what I assume is twelve wires stow them and then re-pin with twelve new wires routed to the LOC. I looked at the PAC Audio unit previously but it would need to be installed behind the dash and then multiple RCA cables would need to be routed to the amps, that seemed more of a pain than my planned solution. Thanks again!
 

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If you already have the amps then the DSR1 or Pac Audio Amp Pro are good options. They use a T harness to connect.
If you use just the Maestro AR you can get the Kenwood 6 channel Dsp amp or another compatible amp.

I was planning on the AR/Kenwood combo but am leaning towards the DSR1 with separate amps now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I already had the amps new from a previous project that I never started. They are pretty nice stuff so I wanted to try and incorporate them into this project.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, that was a very informative video, looks like a great option and an easier solution for my goal. I really appreciate your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, so thanks to F8Dragon my installation just got significantly easier. After looking at the video clip, visiting the Rockford website and speaking to Crutchfield I pulled the trigger on the Rockford Maestro DSR1 with vehicle specific T-harness and extension harness to permit installation in the spare well with the amps. This is going to make for a much cleaner install with no need to molest the factory harness in any way. I also like to adjustability and ability to interface with an iPad to adjust/configure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So how'd the install go? Still figuring out the config or did you get it done already?


Still in progress, actually working on it as we speak...waiting for my carpet/mat to arrive to cover the amp mount.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Still in progress, actually working on it as we speak...waiting for my carpet/mat to arrive to cover the amp mount.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Awesome. Thanks. After you're done, I'd like to pick your brain for lessons learned and tips; thinking about installing a very very similar system myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome. Thanks. After you're done, I'd like to pick your brain for lessons learned and tips; thinking about installing a very very similar system myself.


Anytime.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am curious as well since by the end of the week I will have everything other than the DSR1 for my install.


I’ll get a detailed post put up when I get it completed, probably going to be at least a week though as I am still waiting on various items to facilitate the install.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I’ll get a detailed post put up when I get it completed, probably going to be at least a week though as I am still waiting on various items to facilitate the install.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Still waiting on the carpet to cover the plywood amp base but started some preliminary wiring. Here are the amps and DSR1 in the spare tire well...the foam and compressor will need to find a new home. Routed the 4 gauge wire from the battery’s main terminal (red heat shrink), drilled a hole in the flat part of the terminal end on the factory positive to battery lead, tapped it with a 1/4-24 tap then bolted my new power lead to this and insulated the connection with self fusing tape (superior to the duct tape the factory use. Then I attached my new negative lead to the body ground (viewable under the battery positive terminal). I’m thinking the spare tire well will need to get carpeted as we to achieve a better finished look.




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Jethoncho,

Do you know what the basic dimensions of your amp rack are? I am probably going a similar route but with getting a piece rough cut at Tap Plastic and shape it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Jethoncho,

Do you know what the basic dimensions of your amp rack are? I am probably going a similar route but with getting a piece rough cut at Tap Plastic and shape it from there.
I used the foam from the spare well as a rough template to get general dimension, so I started with a 2’x4’ piece of 3/4” plywood. I didn’t realize the foam didn’t cover the entire area of the spare well. This considered, I would start with a rough dimension of 30”x26” and shape from there. I didn’t start over simply because the area forward of my large amp is basically unusable, I intend to build a foam bolster covered in the carpet to finish this area out.

Good luck with your build/mod.
 

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A few questions:

With the DSP1 and a T-harness, I'm assuming removal of the factory amplifier is unnecessary, correct?

Given the T-harness must be installed at the factory amp location in the dash, how do you get signal to a DSP in the trunk? My thinking is, install the DSP under the dash and just run RCA to the amplification in the trunk.

How will you return the amplified signal to the front doors and dash speakers?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A few questions:

With the DSP1 and a T-harness, I'm assuming removal of the factory amplifier is unnecessary, correct?

Given the T-harness must be installed at the factory amp location in the dash, how do you get signal to a DSP in the trunk? My thinking is, install the DSP under the dash and just run RCA to the amplification in the trunk.

How will you return the amplified signal to the front doors and dash speakers?

Thanks!


Hi,

The DSR T Harness does plug in at the amp location, I purchased the 3 meter extension harness that allows me to install the DSR in the trunk. This seems much more tidy as the extension harness is very nicely constructed with an OEM appearance. This also limits the RCA cables to very short runs in the trunk area thus preventing the introduction of any outside noise or interference.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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