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2019 Challenger Stars & Stripes Scatpack
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Just got my new 2018 Challenger only the SXT but great car none the less may trade in for an R/T in the future. Also owned a 2010 Charger before this. Any way on to the question. I have component 6 1/2" speakers and 2 12" Rockford's a pioneer 600watt 4 channel and kicker 1200watt rms that i would like to install but keep the stock head unit. It is the 7" may upgrade it the 8.4 with nav. Now i have seen the PAC Audio AmpPRO 4 but it only says it works with systems that have the factory Amp. Anyone know of a similar plug and play style adapter for non Amp systems that will give 3 sets of Pre Outs for front,Rear and Subs? Any help would be great i attempted a search but found so many varying threads mostly on line to RCA adapter for basic Sub installation. Thanks!
 

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You’re in luck. I did a similar install on my 2018 RT+. The PAC AP4-CH41 is compatible. When doing the research I was told that you leave the factory amp plugged in, which I did without any problems. I still use it to drive the upgraded tweeters by the windshield. If you’re doing a full install you’re probably going to run your own wires to the doors/deck anyway, which will physically bypass the stock amp.

The short cable length of the included harness limits your PAC unit install location options. As a tip, I found that the best way to hide the PAC unit is to install it directly behind the instrument cluster. You may want to throw down an insulating layer as this puts it close to an HVAC duct. You can run your bass remote to the side of the ignition. There shouldn’t be much behind the panel and you’ll be able to check it yourself with a clear line of sight when you pop off the dash cover.

As for amplifier location, I put mine in the spare tire bay beneath the trunk floor liner. This makes for an exceptionally easy power/ground run as the battery is actually beneath the carpet, directly behind the rear passenger wheel well. If you pull the carpet and the rear seats, you’ll find existing wire channels for a tidy speaker/RCA install. Do yourself a favor and put down some sound deadener while you have the carpet removed. Covering the wheel wells makes a huge difference in the amount of road noise that reaches the cabin.

Finally, if you decide you want to reclaim your trunk, the JL stealthbox is a great option. You’ll get good clean bass with minimal loss of real estate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You’re in luck. I did a similar install on my 2018 RT+. The PAC AP4-CH41 is compatible. When doing the research I was told that you leave the factory amp plugged in, which I did without any problems. I still use it to drive the upgraded tweeters by the windshield. If you’re doing a full install you’re probably going to run your own wires to the doors/deck anyway, which will physically bypass the stock amp.

The short cable length of the included harness limits your PAC unit install location options. As a tip, I found that the best way to hide the PAC unit is to install it directly behind the instrument cluster. You may want to throw down an insulating layer as this puts it close to an HVAC duct. You can run your bass remote to the side of the ignition. There shouldn’t be much behind the panel and you’ll be able to check it yourself with a clear line of sight when you pop off the dash cover.

As for amplifier location, I put mine in the spare tire bay beneath the trunk floor liner. This makes for an exceptionally easy power/ground run as the battery is actually beneath the carpet, directly behind the rear passenger wheel well. If you pull the carpet and the rear seats, you’ll find existing wire channels for a tidy speaker/RCA install. Do yourself a favor and put down some sound deadener while you have the carpet removed. Covering the wheel wells makes a huge difference in the amount of road noise that reaches the cabin.

Finally, if you decide you want to reclaim your trunk, the JL stealthbox is a great option. You’ll get good clean bass with minimal loss of real estate.
Thanks for the info. I planned to build a custom rack in the trunk where spare tire would be like i did in my 2010 charger my problem is my challenger has the 6 speaker setup but no premium badges alpine ect so i do not know if it has a factory AMP the amppro 4 says its only compatible with a car with a factory amp. i called the service department at the dodge dealer i purchased from they looked up the vin but could not tell me 100% i have an amp or not. even called dodge customer care who could not tell me either. i hate to spend $250-300 for the amppro only to not be able to use it.

I saw the stealth box but i have 2 12" Rockford Forsgate Punch 3 2ohm subs i plan to build my own custom stealth box x 2 left/right i hope. Its still in the planning stage haven't done any measurements to see if this will be possible. it all depends on using the Amppro as i do not want to do 3 line converters and have to splice or tap any factory wire
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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If you do not have a special upgraded audio package from the factory, you don’t have a factory amp. There are a couple of ways you can verify this:

1) check the rear fuse box (in trunk next to battery) for the presence of a fuse in the audio amplifier slot. I don’t remember which slot it is, but you can check your owner’s manual for a list of the fuse slots and what functionality they control. Look for one that says something about audio amplifier, and if there is no fuse in that slot in the fuse box, you don’t have an amp from the factory.

2) pull the kick panel immediately below the steering column and physically check for the presence of a factory amp. That’s where they are mounted if included in the car’s build package, so if you don’t find one there, it didn’t come with one.

Speaking of build packages, scanning the build sheet for your car to see if it lists upgraded audio package (SoundGroup II?) would be another way to verify if your car has a factory amp. If you see that upgraded package listed, you will have one (verify with either or both of the methods above).

As far as the hardware needed to add amps to a factory system, any 4-6 channel LOC should work. I am not familiar with the PAC unit you listed, but as long as it accepts high level inputs and converts them to low level RCA outputs, it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info Nuke. I have been looking into pulling the kick plate under the column but cant find any guide (don't want to break any clips) will check the fuse box in the trunk never thought of that. My build sheet just says 6 speaker audio no sound group II or anything and I have a 7" screen not the 5" that usually came with the lower packages on older models.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Thanks for the info Nuke. I have been looking into pulling the kick plate under the column but cant find any guide (don't want to break any clips) will check the fuse box in the trunk never thought of that. My build sheet just says 6 speaker audio no sound group II or anything and I have a 7" screen not the 5" that usually came with the lower packages on older models.
The knee bolster (so THAT is what it is called? Okay, I’ll call it that from now on) is pretty straightforward to remove, and there aren’t any fragile clips to break really. There are some nylon push rivets holding the underside cover on, but those can be pried out and reused with no problem.

Here’s the steps for removal per the Chiltons manual (the manual is specific to ‘10 and below LXs, but I can’t imagine your knee bolster is much different than a 2010’s):

<see attached pics>

But I’m certain you will not find an amp there. If you do, i’ll eat my Sunday hat!

Also I attached a pic of my LC6i, that’s something that would work for your situation very nicely. I’m not saying the PAC device wouldn’t, I don’t know much about those. Maybe it will, maybe it won’t, but I know the LC6i will do what you’re after.

image_1529070789322.jpg

image_1529071018738.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The knee bolster (so THAT is what it is called? Okay, I’ll call it that from now on) is pretty straightforward to remove, and there aren’t any fragile clips to break really. There are some nylon push rivets holding the underside cover on, but those can be pried out and reused with no problem.

Here’s the steps for removal per the Chiltons manual (the manual is specific to ‘10 and below LXs, but I can’t imagine your knee bolster is much different than a 2010’s):

<see attached pics>

But I’m certain you will not find an amp there. If you do, i’ll eat my Sunday hat!

Also I attached a pic of my LC6i, that’s something that would work for your situation very nicely. I’m not saying the PAC device wouldn’t, I don’t know much about those. Maybe it will, maybe it won’t, but I know the LC6i will do what you’re after.

View attachment 922033

View attachment 922049
I was looking at the LC7I but I have heard using quick splice or t taps Is a bad idea. I may be trading the car in a year or two to go up to an RT so want to keep wiring stock without cutting. how did you wire yours? any tips on wire color would be great.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I was looking at the LC7I but I have heard using quick splice or t taps Is a bad idea. I may be trading the car in a year or two to go up to an RT so want to keep wiring stock without cutting. how did you wire yours? any tips on wire color would be great.
You won't be using quick splices or T-taps with any LOC or amplifier install. The wires have to be cut and rerouted to the device you're installing, and then the outs from the device will be tied back into the system where you cut them originally. So basically you won't be able to keep stock if you want to install an amp or LOC.

As far as how mine is, well, I'm still in the middle of actually installing it. The plan is to run front dash and front door into Main and #2 inputs on the LC6i (yes, I know they are the same channel, but I have my reasons), leave them UNsummed, and leave the #3 input on the LC6i empty for now. That will leave the rear deck speakers continued to be powered from the deck alone...for now.

Then I have a 4 channel amp that I will be running the Main and #2 outputs from the LC6i into and back out again to the dash and door speakers. Again, the rear deck speakers will be left alone (powered by factory head unit).

Assuming all that works to my liking, I will leave it for now until I saves a little more scratch to beef up the bottom end. For that I will probably buy a powered sub in the 10" to 12" range and install in the trunk. At that point I will run the rear channel from the head unit through the LC6i #3 input and use the #3 output on it to go straight to the powered sub and its amp. I will have to reconfigure how I have the Main and #2 outputs on the LC6i (and by extension the amp as well) to get power to the rear deck speakers, but that's fine, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

As far as speaker wire colors, here's the best I can do for you:
LX speaker wiring - no amp.JPG

That wiring diagram is for a 6 speaker LX audio system without an amplifier. So it should work for you. However, it is from a 2006 version of the LX service manual, so there is certainly a chance it will not be the same as what your car has. Anywhere you find a discrepancy, you should go with whatever you find in your car.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Calgon, Take Me Away!!

Disregard everything I've said!

Seriously, I'm in the middle of my own audio upgrade as I've mentioned, but I'm stuck trying to find a good spot to cut the factory wires and reroute to my LOC. Meanwhile, I keep doing more and more reading over on the Charger forum, and I've run across some threads which seriously have me considering dropping the whole upgrade on mine. At most, I might add in a powered sub in the trunk (and just tap the rear deck speaker wires for the sub's amp input). I am not kidding; that's how convoluted this whole thing is getting for me the more I read.

I don't know if everything applies to the Challengers as well, but some of it certainly might. So to that end, I'll paste in some link for you peruse for yourself. WARNING: read at your own peril!!

Need help! Speaker upgrade with stock headunit - Dodge Charger Forums

New Sounds System - Dodge Charger Forums

Amplifier upgrade, thoughts and info-2nd gen - Dodge Charger Forums

Post-Install Write-Up: Installing an Aftermarket Amp - Page 3 - Dodge Charger Forums

There are more, but I feel like that's probably sufficient to depress you like it has done me by now :frown:
 

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You’re in luck. I did a similar install on my 2018 RT+. The PAC AP4-CH41 is compatible. When doing the research I was told that you leave the factory amp plugged in, which I did without any problems. I still use it to drive the upgraded tweeters by the windshield. If you’re doing a full install you’re probably going to run your own wires to the doors/deck anyway, which will physically bypass the stock amp.

The short cable length of the included harness limits your PAC unit install location options. As a tip, I found that the best way to hide the PAC unit is to install it directly behind the instrument cluster. You may want to throw down an insulating layer as this puts it close to an HVAC duct. You can run your bass remote to the side of the ignition. There shouldn’t be much behind the panel and you’ll be able to check it yourself with a clear line of sight when you pop off the dash cover.

As for amplifier location, I put mine in the spare tire bay beneath the trunk floor liner. This makes for an exceptionally easy power/ground run as the battery is actually beneath the carpet, directly behind the rear passenger wheel well. If you pull the carpet and the rear seats, you’ll find existing wire channels for a tidy speaker/RCA install. Do yourself a favor and put down some sound deadener while you have the carpet removed. Covering the wheel wells makes a huge difference in the amount of road noise that reaches the cabin.

Finally, if you decide you want to reclaim your trunk, the JL stealthbox is a great option. You’ll get good clean bass with minimal loss of real estate.
How did you run your RCA cables from the PAC to the amp in your trunk? I when down the driver side and got alternator noise. So I reran them the RCAs under the center console and under the rear seat to the truck and still got alternator noise. I am definitely picking it up somewhere in the RCA run.
 

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How did you run your RCA cables from the PAC to the amp in your trunk? I when down the driver side and got alternator noise. So I reran them the RCAs under the center console and under the rear seat to the truck and still got alternator noise. I am definitely picking it up somewhere in the RCA run.
Have you tried buying quality RCA Cabling? Or check your Amp Ground in the Trunk or your input sensitivity is turned up too High ?? Just a few ideas to try.
Good Luck
Mopar Dwayne:cool:
 
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