Not knowing what their hourly labor rate is, it’s hard to say if the estimate is higher than it should be, but I will say the parts totals look about right. You could possibly order the parts for cheaper and have them installed, but it’s probably best to get them there so everything is warrantied and covered in case of a problem.
Saving a couple hundred by ordering g the parts yourself is probably not worth having them blame it on CPE (customer provides equipment) if you were to take it back I’m complaining of a sound anomaly or failure.
The factory speakers, especially your upgraded ones, are quite capable of producing quality sounds when fed with an amp. Yours are amped, so adding the low end with the sub and amp makes it sound more complete.
Your head-unit remaining the stock one will be your biggest problem to acquiring top notch sound. It will still sound fine as it is though.
Besides, you can always get the speakers replaced later if you decide too.
I'm presuming that your 'Cat had the default 276w 6 speaker system
the tell-tale if you have the Performance Audio / Harmon Kardon is the rear interior quarter panels have 3" round speaker grills and under the trunk cover panel there's a dual sub module. This is referred to as the 18 speaker system (several speakers are 3 way or 2 way that figure into that total) this system is rated 900w RMS.
In my opinion, you are basically paying $2k to add a sub to your car. Keep in mind that at a minimum, the stock system has a 6-channel, factory-tuned DSP amplifier. You'd be replacing that with a 5-channel amplifier with no factory DSP tuning. Yes, you'll have much better bass, but you still wouldn't have a single tweeter in the car and would actually be going from a 6-channel, factory-tuned DSP amp down to a 4-channel, non-DSP amp for the rest of the speakers (and still wouldn't have a single tweeter in the car). You'll have lots of bass, but the rest of the system would probably sound worse (less amp channels, no DSP and they'd probably turn the gain way down on the amp so you don't damage the low-power-handling factory speakers).
In that case, you'd probably be better off just adding a single channel sub amp and getting the signal for it from the rear-deck speakers. That way you can add a sub and still use the 6-channel factory-tuned DSP amp for the rest of the speakers - while also saving $400 for the 5-channel amp and $350 for the OEM integration piece. If you are not going to replace the factory speakers, I see no point in replacing the factory amp. The factory DSP-tuned amp is tuned to make those factory speakers sound as best as they can - by removing that factory DSP tuning, I think you'd end up worse off...
Is that 12 an JL Audio? I saw Stealthbox on the estimate, so I’m assuming it’s the JL Audio sub to match. If so, it should outperform the two factory installed 10s...Those JL Audio Stealthboxes with matching 12” are no joke, they rock and roll.
The factory 10s, on the other hand, are not known for impressing people with their output/performance.
Well, even if you replace the stock speakers as well, then the problem is that you still don't have a DSP for them (which you did with the factory amp).
I recently upgraded the 6-speaker amplified system in my 2018 GT. I went with a 6-channel JL Audio amp (75Wx6) and replaced all 6 stock speakers (Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C component set for door/dash speakers and Excelon KFC-X174 coaxials for rear-deck 6.5" speakers). I didn't want a trunk-based sub, so I went with an under-seat subwoofer. If you go with a dedicated full-sized sub, then you need yet another amp channel for that as well (so a 6-channel amp isn't enough). Also, since I replaced the stock DSP amp, I also added a dedicated aftermarket DSP system as well. I'm just afraid that if you don't add a DSP, the quality of the 6 non-sub speakers will be worse than the stock system. DSP's work wonders with time alignment and EQ. If you replace the stock speakers and stock DSP amp without also adding a DSP, I'm not so sure how good the results will be.
However, once you go adding an aftermarket DSP, then you also need to get it tuned - and things start getting real expensive real fast - especially if you are paying someone else to do it (I did it all myself, so it wasn't that bad).
So what I'm trying to say is that it's hard to upgrade one part of the system without upgrading the whole system... It quickly becomes a rabbit hole and becomes really expensive.
If this were me, I'd replace the stock speakers, use aftermarket amps (would need at least 7 channels if using a "real" sub) and would add an aftermarket DSP. But if you go this far, you're looking at another $1k+ over the current quote - easily - maybe even $2k more (since you'll need more amp channels, dedicated DSP, new speakers and DSP tuning).
By the way - do you have a factory sub now? You said it was a 6-speaker setup... The 6-speaker Alpine amplified system in my 2018 GT did NOT have a factory sub, so I'm just checking.
I am considering getting this, and I have a couple of questions if anyone has tried already.
First, I have a 2018, so I need some type of bypass for the OBD, right?
Do I need that , or can I do reads and test the software without the OBD security bypass?
Anyone else using it on a 2018+? What...
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