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2019 Scat Pack triple nickel 6 speed manual.
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Hey guys just a simple question for the experts here... I’m gonna do my own oil changes on the 392. My question is is this engine like normal...just drop one drain plug..change the filter then add oil??...I’ve done it plenty on my other cars and motorcycles so I know the drill. Just wondering if there is anything special on the SRT motor. Also what is the little cap like thing on the passenger valve cover where my catch can tube plugs into...does that cap turn or come off for some reason?...haven’t really investigated it. Thanks guys.
 

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the "cap" you see with the breather line is the PCV valve - nothing to be done with that during routine oil changes.

the engine takes 7 quarts total for the oil change / filter change. 0W-40 full synthetic is what is required.

the 041AA filter is the "premium" SRT filter that fits any of the V8s and has more filter media, a higher rate bypass valve and synthetic filter media. Costs more, but you have a bit more "insurance" over the standard 899 filter.

a step I do is pre-fill the filter it will hold a bit less than 1/2 quart of oil - this will allow oil pressure to build up faster w/o having the pump to fill the filter, then push all that air through the oil galleries in the engine before oil flows through

another step is priming the oiling system before starting. A fuel injection system can be run in bypass by holding the accelerator pedal to the floor BEFORE cranking the engine - it shuts off the injectors (for clearing a flooded engine during a starting attempt)

I'll bring up the Oil Pressure readout, and while cranking, you have to press the down arrow button \/ to get the screen to display once you start the cranking sequence.

Don't crank more than 20 seconds at a time; the starter windings heat up. You may have to do a 2nd cranking cycle - once you see ~ 5 psi you can stop

then crank and allow engine to start.

there's two ways to reset the oil life indicator. You bring up the display and ignition On, engine Off, press the OK button. Or the other way is ignition On, engine Off and you press and release accelerator 3 x within 10 seconds and it will reset it that way.

392 engines call for 6 months or 6,000 mile intervals for oil changes
 

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Thank you very much for sharing that with me...much more to it than I thought, should be fun. 👍👍
 

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the "cap" you see with the breather line is the PCV valve - nothing to be done with that during routine oil changes.

the engine takes 7 quarts total for the oil change / filter change. 0W-40 full synthetic is what is required.

the 041AA filter is the "premium" SRT filter that fits any of the V8s and has more filter media, a higher rate bypass valve and synthetic filter media. Costs more, but you have a bit more "insurance" over the standard 899 filter.

a step I do is pre-fill the filter it will hold a bit less than 1/2 quart of oil - this will allow oil pressure to build up faster w/o having the pump to fill the filter, then push all that air through the oil galleries in the engine before oil flows through

another step is priming the oiling system before starting. A fuel injection system can be run in bypass by holding the accelerator pedal to the floor BEFORE cranking the engine - it shuts off the injectors (for clearing a flooded engine during a starting attempt)

I'll bring up the Oil Pressure readout, and while cranking, you have to press the down arrow button \/ to get the screen to display once you start the cranking sequence.

Don't crank more than 20 seconds at a time; the starter windings heat up. You may have to do a 2nd cranking cycle - once you see ~ 5 psi you can stop

then crank and allow engine to start.

there's two ways to reset the oil life indicator. You bring up the display and ignition On, engine Off, press the OK button. Or the other way is ignition On, engine Off and you press and release accelerator 3 x within 10 seconds and it will reset it that way.

392 engines call for 6 months or 6,000 mile intervals for oil changes
What about Oil Cooler Drain plug removal and drain as well, is that needed every oil change as well? I hear some people do it and some don't?
 

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What about Oil Cooler Drain plug removal and drain as well, is that needed every oil change as well? I hear some people do it and some don't?
That is Hellcat only. The 392 cooler is a water to oil cooler, totally different and there is nothing to drain.


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Like Slidd mentioned, the HC cooler has its own drain plug - you have to remove several small bolts to get the access panel out to drain the remote air-to-oil cooler.

support the cooler with another wrench on the flats while loosening /tightening the cooler's drain plug. You don't want to torque or twist those cooler lines.

the 'Cat uses both the water-to-oil cooler / adapter and the oil-to-air remote cooler. Boosted engines generate a lot more heat under load
 

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the "cap" you see with the breather line is the PCV valve - nothing to be done with that during routine oil changes.

the engine takes 7 quarts total for the oil change / filter change. 0W-40 full synthetic is what is required.

the 041AA filter is the "premium" SRT filter that fits any of the V8s and has more filter media, a higher rate bypass valve and synthetic filter media. Costs more, but you have a bit more "insurance" over the standard 899 filter.

a step I do is pre-fill the filter it will hold a bit less than 1/2 quart of oil - this will allow oil pressure to build up faster w/o having the pump to fill the filter, then push all that air through the oil galleries in the engine before oil flows through

another step is priming the oiling system before starting. A fuel injection system can be run in bypass by holding the accelerator pedal to the floor BEFORE cranking the engine - it shuts off the injectors (for clearing a flooded engine during a starting attempt)

I'll bring up the Oil Pressure readout, and while cranking, you have to press the down arrow button \/ to get the screen to display once you start the cranking sequence.

Don't crank more than 20 seconds at a time; the starter windings heat up. You may have to do a 2nd cranking cycle - once you see ~ 5 psi you can stop

then crank and allow engine to start.

there's two ways to reset the oil life indicator. You bring up the display and ignition On, engine Off, press the OK button. Or the other way is ignition On, engine Off and you press and release accelerator 3 x within 10 seconds and it will reset it that way.

392 engines call for 6 months or 6,000 mile intervals for oil changes
There is absolutely no reason to "prime" the oiling system before engine start after an oil change or at any other time.

The oil system is primed. All you are doing is slow cranking the engine and this slow cranking rather than creating the hydrodynamic bearing from residual oil forces the oil out of the bearings.

After an oil change just like every other start just start the engine. The engine controller will take RPMs up to around 1K or a bit higher which helps ensure the hydrodynamic bearing from the residual oil forms. And the high engine speed gets the oil flowing from the gear oil pump right now. Gear pumps are very inefficient at low speed and the starter can only crank the engine at a very low speed.

The 20 or more seconds you have to crank the engine using the starter to get a measly 5psi showing just highlights how inefficient the oil pump is at low speed.
 

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Agreed with Rockster no need for priming the oil system, never have myself on bikes or cars and never had any issues
 

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There is absolutely no reason to "prime" the oiling system before engine start after an oil change or at any other time.

The oil system is primed. All you are doing is slow cranking the engine and this slow cranking rather than creating the hydrodynamic bearing from residual oil forces the oil out of the bearings.

After an oil change just like every other start just start the engine. The engine controller will take RPMs up to around 1K or a bit higher which helps ensure the hydrodynamic bearing from the residual oil forms. And the high engine speed gets the oil flowing from the gear oil pump right now. Gear pumps are very inefficient at low speed and the starter can only crank the engine at a very low speed.

The 20 or more seconds you have to crank the engine using the starter to get a measly 5psi showing just highlights how inefficient the oil pump is at low speed.
I'd disagree - but everyone has their opinion.

the 5 psi is probably with the engine turning may 100 rpm and why put the starter under more strain?

the oil pickup tube is rather long and the pump is on the snout of the crank - so the engine isn't primed. When you drain the oil it drains out of the pickup tube and the pump is dry.
its a gerotor style pump design

when I've done cam swaps on these engines, I'm removing the oil pump and pickup tube. After you've drained the oil before removing those items, that pump is essentially dry. You're pushing a large bubble of air through the gallieries

On the Hemi engine the lifters are the final item in the path of oiling.
Main bearings
oil passages to heads (shaft pedestals)
oil to rocker shafts
oil from shafts to rocker arms
oil from rockers down pushrods to lifters

I'm all about minimizing wear and dry starts are one of those things (albeit brief) that wear working surfaces

You should hear the (lifter) racket when you fire up a Hemi after a cam swap or changing lifters out and doing the priming steps. Some quiet down quickly others take more than you like to hear
 

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OK, so here's a dumb questions not to jump the OP's post, but if the car sits for any time what so ever, all the oil drains down any way. Synthetic oil has less cling properties that dyno oil so it doesn't take as long. once its back in the pan, its a dry start anyway less what may be hanging out in dips etc..., so why is draining the oil and replacing new any different? I agree filling the filter whenever possible, but priming, starting which ever, it still dry till it isn't right?
 

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I've actually done the pre-prime after sitting long spells (multiple weeks+) I've used full syn oils for nearly 30 years.

If its been a week, rare that I'd hear lifter clatter, but longer intervals, it might happen...

The full syn oil actually flow faster and tend to cling to surfaces better.

my 2001 vehicle has almost 150K - no oil consumption (factory fill with full syn oil) and averages 11k per the oil quality monitor between oil changes.

my older vehicles (before I used synthetic) would start showing signs of wear ~ 60K and you could see oil vapor on startup and note some oil consumption - these were bought as new.

Don't see that with synthetic oils - so that sold me as well that it does a better job than conventional oil

(it uses capillary sensors that monitor conductivity of oil) clean oil is less conductive than used oil - so its on actual conditions of oil vs. algorithm based on temperature and duty cycles with that manufacturer
 

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Either way works. I do fill my oil filter just because. But I've forgotten before and nothing bad happened. On a cam swap there should be enough pre-lube on everything involved to keep it lubed until oil circulation gets thru the engine oil galley's. The roller lifters should've been soaking in oil over night to soak the needle roller bearings, and the internal's anyway. Just as the timing chain should be soaked overnight to get the oil into the roller links. And if it's a first start overhaul the oil pump gears should have been lightly coated with a light weight grease, moly based if you got it. Been doing it this way and never had a problem.
 

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Hey guys just a simple question for the experts here... I’m gonna do my own oil changes on the 392. My question is is this engine like normal...just drop one drain plug..change the filter then add oil??...I’ve done it plenty on my other cars and motorcycles so I know the drill. Just wondering if there is anything special on the SRT motor. Also what is the little cap like thing on the passenger valve cover where my catch can tube plugs into...does that cap turn or come off for some reason?...haven’t really investigated it. Thanks guys.
Nothing special to an oil change on your 392.

The additional steps described certainly won't hurt anything, but are probably overkill.

If your 392 is still under warranty, then you might consider sticking to FCA's oil recommendation ... Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-40. The Mopar oil filter is very good. The SRT oil filter is even better.

995B438C-D908-4D38-A458-8D2126982635.jpeg
 

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Is the 1800's oil can required? :p

A Guy
 

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Brookins Swing Spout 1/2 Gallon Oil Can ;)

A Guy
 

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Brookins Swing Spout 1/2 Gallon Oil Can ;)

A Guy
Good eye. The Brookins oil can was my grandfather’s. It’s probably from the ‘40s or ‘50s when he and his brother had their garage

I don’t think I’ve ever spilled a drop while using it.


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"Is the 1800's oil can required?" A Guy

Probably not, but it looks cool.
Thanks.

A little old-school tech for Modern Muscle


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