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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I have been dealing with a lingering issue from the engine bay that seems to be on the passenger side of the vehicle. I can hear the what sounds like a grinding/sputtering/ticking which grows louder and more pronounced under acceleration. Once I get to around 45/50mph the general noise from the road and engine drown it out but if I’m just driving around the block on the side streets you can easily hear it as the RPM’s rise and fall.

I only have 2500 miles on the car and it has been to the dealership 3 times already... The first time they said they heard nothing, the second time the insisted on changing the alternator and pulley, and third time theysaid they didn’t hear anything. However, when I received the car back after the second visit I still heard the same noise, so the alternator was clearly not at fault. That said, if they didn’t hear anything, I can’t understand why they would change those two components...

I have recorded a few clips of the car when being driven as well as in the driveway. It would be greatly appreciated if someone could weigh in on this.

The”Driving” clips demonstrate the noise I’m hearing pretty well, that when your in the car it’s more pronounced... Th “Driveway” clips are from under the vehicle.

Driving clip 1

Driving 2

Driveway 1

Driveway 2
 

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Not good. Get to the dealer. If they fail to acknowledge it there are other dealers and you can call FCA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not good. Get to the dealer. If they fail to acknowledge it there are other dealers and you can call FCA.
Sounds like hell right? Any idea what that could be? I tried to tell them it sounded off... I know what harsh vs. normal is but I just can’t pinpoint it as I’m coming from a flat four turbo to a v8... very different platforms.
 

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I'd suspect water pump
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd suspect water pump
Thanks, do you think that as a result of the squeel from the driveway clip or the driving clip? To be honest I didn’t hear a squeel like that when I was under the car but the microphone usually doesn’t lie.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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My advice is to as best you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. This is what (good) techs do.

This is also what I did when I heard a strange noise from another car of mine. To first verify the noise was coming from the accessory drive I removed the accessory drive belt and started and ran the engine only long enough -- way less than a minute -- to verify the noise was not present. The noise appeared shorlty after cold engine start. Then knowing something with the accessory drive system was responsible for the noise I checked all the accessory drives for any excessive -- which means any-- bearinig play. Just the water pump had some. The rest were all quite free of any play.

For a shop to replace the alternator and not have the noise gone there is no excuse for that other than incompetence or perhaps with the hope you just go away and maybe a bit of warranty work padding.

A squeal could be the belt slipping because of a severely dragging accessrory drive bearing. It could also squeal if the tensioner was failing to keep the belt taut.

The shop is going to have to do its job and ID the source of the noise and then from this advise you what the solution is. A new water pump. Or new idler roller. Or a new tensioner. 'course, it depends upon where the noise is coming from.

If the noise is not from the accessory drive but from inside the engine that still needs to have the noise source narrowed down as best it can be. But the odds are there will have to be some engine teardown (at least a valve cover removed) to determine what might be going on.
 

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Thanks, do you think that as a result of the squeel from the driveway clip or the driving clip? To be honest I didn’t hear a squeel like that when I was under the car but the microphone usually doesn’t lie.
the idling in the driveway - that kind of sound makes me suspect the water pump

another thing to try (engine off) is grab water pump pulley. Try to move in / out or up/ down - any movement, the pump is bad (bearing issue)
 
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I couldn't make much out in the recordings except the idling parts - sounds like tensioner/idler/accessory noise to me, but you've got to demonstrate that to them.

You can always ask for a drive/demonstration with a like vehicle, that often helps get everyone on the same page when it comes to noise concerns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let the dealer know that each visit for the same issue is getting them a little closer to a lemon law buy back.
I agree. My patience is wearing with the vehicle. I love the look of the car but the inability to solve this has really soured me. I hope I don’t need to get to that point

My advice is to as best you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. This is what (good) techs do.

This is also what I did when I heard a strange noise from another car of mine. To first verify the noise was coming from the accessory drive I removed the accessory drive belt and started and ran the engine only long enough -- way less than a minute -- to verify the noise was not present. The noise appeared shorlty after cold engine start. Then knowing something with the accessory drive system was responsible for the noise I checked all the accessory drives for any excessive -- which means any-- bearinig play. Just the water pump had some. The rest were all quite free of any play.

For a shop to replace the alternator and not have the noise gone there is no excuse for that other than incompetence or perhaps with the hope you just go away and maybe a bit of warranty work padding.

A squeal could be the belt slipping because of a severely dragging accessrory drive bearing. It could also squeal if the tensioner was failing to keep the belt taut.

The shop is going to have to do its job and ID the source of the noise and then from this advise you what the solution is. A new water pump. Or new idler roller. Or a new tensioner. 'course, it depends upon where the noise is coming from.

If the noise is not from the accessory drive but from inside the engine that still needs to have the noise source narrowed down as best it can be. But the odds are there will have to be some engine teardown (at least a valve cover removed) to determine what might be going on.
Thanks for the info. I really hope this doesn’t result in an engine tear down. I know how that usually end up... 10 bolts out, 9 back in not tightened to spec.

I’m obviously concerned with the sound at rest but if you listen closely to the sound when I’m driving, theres a whine and friction (light grinding) noise. If anyone can weigh in on that it would be great

I've had my water pump replaced twice and that sounds like the water pump.
What year is your car that the water pump has gone twice? Sorry to hear that as well.
 

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A mechanic's stethoscope is cheap and available at most good auto parts stores. Even if you can't pinpoint the noise exactly, you can eliminate a number of things it isn't. If it's the water pump, you will hear it loud and clear with the stethoscope.

DeWFPo
 

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I agree. My patience is wearing with the vehicle. I love the look of the car but the inability to solve this has really soured me. I hope I don’t need to get to that point


Thanks for the info. I really hope this doesn’t result in an engine tear down. I know how that usually end up... 10 bolts out, 9 back in not tightened to spec.

I’m obviously concerned with the sound at rest but if you listen closely to the sound when I’m driving, theres a whine and friction (light grinding) noise. If anyone can weigh in on that it would be great


What year is your car that the water pump has gone twice? Sorry to hear that as well.
I have a 2016 Scat Pack Shaker. I had the water pump replaced at 29k and 59K. Seams to be an issue with the water pump. Not an expensive fix but still a pain. I have a Mopar MAX so I'm covered until 125k miles.
 

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I agree. My patience is wearing with the vehicle. I love the look of the car but the inability to solve this has really soured me. I hope I don’t need to get to that point


Thanks for the info. I really hope this doesn’t result in an engine tear down. I know how that usually end up... 10 bolts out, 9 back in not tightened to spec.

I’m obviously concerned with the sound at rest but if you listen closely to the sound when I’m driving, theres a whine and friction (light grinding) noise. If anyone can weigh in on that it would be great


What year is your car that the water pump has gone twice? Sorry to hear that as well.
You need to start building a case for a lemon now.

There is another approach... It might seem overkill but all is fair...

Learn the name address phone number of the consumer fraud agency in your area.

If you call chances are the you'll be told return to the dealer to try to work out a satisfactory solution to the issue. You want the noise id'd and fixed.

Return to dealer. Stress you have lost all enjoyment from driving the vehicle because of this noise and the dealer has been unable to address it. You feel the car migth suffer a break down at any time leaving you stranded or the car stalled in traffic. Thus you feel the car is unsafe.

Stress to you were assured of the excellent service you were told you could expect if you bought the car. But you have not seen evidence of this. It is not "excellent" service to replace an alternator for a noise only to have the noise still present after.

Thus you believe you were misled about the service capabilities and this is why you contacted the consumer fraud agency.

fi the dealer can't address this noise then you will be forced to contact the conasumer fraud agency again.

You have to be prepared to leave the car. When you are contacted to come get the car its "fixed" you have to prepare for the fact it may not be fixed. So before you take the car home you give it a road test and try to reproduce the noise. You want to have a high degree of confidence the noise is really gone.

If it is fine. If not you have to refuse the car because the noise is still present. Accept no BS about it takes time, break in, or whatever. If you take the car with the noise still present you tell the dealer you are willing to accept the car back with this noise still present. This just signale to dealer you can be stalled.

Be sure you get a copy of the service paper work that clearly IDs it is your car (VIN, miles, etc.) and what your complaint is. And after what was done to address the noise. Save all paperwork.

As for the noise if it is coming from the accessory drive system it can be any rotating component in that system. Alternator. Power steering pump. Any one of the idler roller bearings. Tensioner roller bearing. A/C compressor. And water pump.

From my time with Dodge cars my WAG would be water pump. There seems to be a fair number of premature water pump failures. But with other cars one time the noise proved to be due to a bad water pump. Yet another car twice it had an idler roller bearing go bad. When the water pump did eventually go bad it did not make any noise. It just leaked coolant. Had I let it go -- which is not my style -- it probably would have gotten noisy. But a leak is a bad water pump even if the pump is quiet.

We can all offer idas of what might be the problem. The dealer and its service department should be able to ID the source of the noise and fix it. If not then as I touched upon above you were misled regarding the level of service you could expect. After all the dealer is a Dodge dealer. It can't throw up its arms and say we don't know when you bring the car in with a problem.

Since dealer replaced the alternator with no success you could take the car back and point out since the alternator did not address the problem to save time the dealer should just replace -- under warranty of course -- the power steering pump, the A/C compressor, the water pump, the idle rollers, tensioner and the belt.

I mean if the dealer is just going to throw parts at the noise throw them all and get it over with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You need to start building a case for a lemon now.

There is another approach... It might seem overkill but all is fair...

Learn the name address phone number of the consumer fraud agency in your area.

If you call chances are the you'll be told return to the dealer to try to work out a satisfactory solution to the issue. You want the noise id'd and fixed.

Return to dealer. Stress you have lost all enjoyment from driving the vehicle because of this noise and the dealer has been unable to address it. You feel the car migth suffer a break down at any time leaving you stranded or the car stalled in traffic. Thus you feel the car is unsafe.

Stress to you were assured of the excellent service you were told you could expect if you bought the car. But you have not seen evidence of this. It is not "excellent" service to replace an alternator for a noise only to have the noise still present after.

Thus you believe you were misled about the service capabilities and this is why you contacted the consumer fraud agency.

fi the dealer can't address this noise then you will be forced to contact the conasumer fraud agency again.

You have to be prepared to leave the car. When you are contacted to come get the car its "fixed" you have to prepare for the fact it may not be fixed. So before you take the car home you give it a road test and try to reproduce the noise. You want to have a high degree of confidence the noise is really gone.

If it is fine. If not you have to refuse the car because the noise is still present. Accept no BS about it takes time, break in, or whatever. If you take the car with the noise still present you tell the dealer you are willing to accept the car back with this noise still present. This just signale to dealer you can be stalled.

Be sure you get a copy of the service paper work that clearly IDs it is your car (VIN, miles, etc.) and what your complaint is. And after what was done to address the noise. Save all paperwork.

As for the noise if it is coming from the accessory drive system it can be any rotating component in that system. Alternator. Power steering pump. Any one of the idler roller bearings. Tensioner roller bearing. A/C compressor. And water pump.

From my time with Dodge cars my WAG would be water pump. There seems to be a fair number of premature water pump failures. But with other cars one time the noise proved to be due to a bad water pump. Yet another car twice it had an idler roller bearing go bad. When the water pump did eventually go bad it did not make any noise. It just leaked coolant. Had I let it go -- which is not my style -- it probably would have gotten noisy. But a leak is a bad water pump even if the pump is quiet.

We can all offer idas of what might be the problem. The dealer and its service department should be able to ID the source of the noise and fix it. If not then as I touched upon above you were misled regarding the level of service you could expect. After all the dealer is a Dodge dealer. It can't throw up its arms and say we don't know when you bring the car in with a problem.

Since dealer replaced the alternator with no success you could take the car back and point out since the alternator did not address the problem to save time the dealer should just replace -- under warranty of course -- the power steering pump, the A/C compressor, the water pump, the idle rollers, tensioner and the belt.

I mean if the dealer is just going to throw parts at the noise throw them all and get it over with.
Thanks for the detailed response. I just got back from the dealer and it was a waste. I only got more frustrated from being told it seems like I’m looking for noises and everything sounds fine. They said I could visit a different dealership or call FCA as they don’t want to throw parts at the car and stage the case for a lemon law.... At the end of the day I really don’t want to go through a lemon law process. I just wanted them to support the car that was sold to me. I’ll most definitely be reporting this to a higher authority now in addition to going to a different dealer. They will not see another dime from me.

No power steering pump.
The steering is a little tight and squeaky but I just figured it was the fact that it’s a widebody and given the bigger tires. Where would the power steering pump be and how could I troubleshoot that
 

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It's electric, no "pump"
1007259

A Guy
 
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