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I have read so many posts about what parts people are using to swap out cams in the 5.7 hemi with the 6.4L cams. Everything from parts to places to order, and there are many different vendors and places to do the work. My question is, can you use all the Mopar parts form a 6.4L to do the swap, cam, springs, retainers and cups. I am doing it in my 2009 RT 6 speed. You can order all the stuff from Allmopar.com or is there a reason to get different brand parts. Just a bit confused.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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If you use the performance springs from mopar (BTW you can buy the springs individually which is cheaper than the kit) no additional retainers or shims required.

Link to the spring kit (works with the factory seats, retainers, and locks, and requires no shims or machining of the cylinder head).

Post confirming individual springs P/N 68277306AA is the same as in the kit. (this member just did the 6.4 cam in 5.7 swap)

Really no need to replace the lifters if going to a 6.4 cam unless you install a non-MDS cam in a motor that originally cam with MDS.

As for the pushrods, I highly recommend going aftermarket...better quality.
 

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FWIW I have a thread where I am installing a 6.2 cam (very similar specs to a 6.4 cam) in a 5.7.
 

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The springs listed above work for a 5.7 and 6.4 (need shims though). 6.4 springs are not ideal as they have higher install heights than the 5.7. Here are some specs which I pulled from various sources including some Hemi books from Shepard. Not 100% sure all these are correct as I have seen discrepancies between sources.

978488
 

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Chally-Tatum I was wondering if in any of your research, if you or one of the other members came up with the coil bind numbers for the Eagle and 6.4 springs. Which would give you a better idea of how much cam lift the springs could actually handle. I tested an Eagle valve spring at one time and I came up with 1.400 coil bind, with what I heard about beehive springs you can run them down to 0.050 before coil bind which would give them a max valve lift of .540 (.590 lift is coil bind). Does anyone have a 6.4 spring they can check.
 

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No exact coil binding numbers but have seen discussions about it.

Since I was not going with large lift cam I did not really spend much time determine coil bind as the performance springs from mopar basically spec the max lift they are able to handle.
 

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I should clarify that the .050 clearance for the beehive springs is something that I read in my research on the web, so always check with spring manufacturers for there specs. I put the PSI 1511 springs on my heads when I changed out the cam for the 6.4 non mds cam and now I have a custom cam with .590 in. and .585 ex. lift and still using the 1511 springs. But just looking at all the specs for the 5.7 eagle springs the 6.4 cam will not work with them and you would need a cam with less than .540 lift to work with the stock springs. The funny thing is the eagle springs have the highest spring rate, even higher than the PSI 1511's. Which are 384# per inch, 6.4 are 389#, and eagles are 413#. The difference is the thickness of the coil wire and number of windings which gives the spring more lift before coil bind, the PSI 1511 has the lowest installed height at 1.800 to the 6.4 2.051/2.016 and eagle at 1.990, PSI has the highest lift .625.
 

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Honestly, I don't take any of the OEM specs at face value. Even the FSM shows the cam journals across engine platforms to be different (although I think for the 5.7 they are using pre-eagle dimensions) which I know is a lie because folks have been swapping cams with no issues. Besides, why use 6.4 springs when the mopar performance spring are designed for higher lift on a 5.7. Plus they can be had dirt cheap if buying them individual using the 68277306AA P/N as borntorun verified is the same as in the kit.
 

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The springs listed above work for a 5.7 and 6.4 (need shims though). 6.4 springs are not ideal as they have higher install heights than the 5.7. Here are some specs which I pulled from various sources including some Hemi books from Shepard. Not 100% sure all these are correct as I have seen discrepancies between sources.

View attachment 978488
Does anyone know if the valve length is correct in the image @ChallyTatum posted?
Manley shows a different length.

Chrysler HEMI 5.7L (2009 - Up) w/ TRIPLE GROOVE​
11695-8Exh.1.555".3125"Stock5.125"0.1225° x 1/2".065".100"20° Dish95
11697-8Exh.1.575".3125"Stock5.125"0.1225° x 1/2".065".100"20° Dish
11694-8Int.2.050".3125"Stock5.176"0.12Pro Flo: 12° x 3/8".050".085"7° Dish111
11696-8Int.2.080".3125"Stock5.176"0.12Pro Flo: 12° x 3/8".050".085"7° Dish113
11696H-8Int.2.080".3125"Stock5.176"0.12Pro Flo: 12° x 3/8".050".085"7° Dish101
I also found these specs and not sure of exactly what the length is so i can order valves.
Screenshot_2020-08-30-14-16-42.png
 

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Thanks, makes me wonder why manley's intake valves are longer and the exhaust is shorter.
Both still fall in the factory specs i found out of the dodge service manual, but will affect the spring installed height. The manley valves is what comes in most of the performance heads offered on the market. Not a lot of performance valves offered for the eagle heads either.
 

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I am in the process of gathering parts for the 6.4 cam swap. i just looked at the part number 68277306AA for valve springs on Mopar Parts Online and just wanted to make sure that i was looking at the correct part. the price seems too good to be true. im looking at $4.48 a spring?
 

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I did a 6.2 cam swap not too long ago. Lots of info in my thread.

As for springs, borntorun found you can buy the Mopar performance spring needed for a higher lift cam individually for way cheaper.
 

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thank you for the clarification. i didnt want to end up getting the wrong ones. i have a 6.4 cam on the way now. my water pump crapped out on me and i had somthing dripping off the back of the engine, and possibly blown head gasket. thinking maybe freeze plugs. the shop im working with mentioned that they will probably pull the enigine, the manager said that if they do pull it and i am thinking about a cam swap that for an extra $1-300 in labor plus parts that they could swap the cam, springs and pushrods. but luckily i have a aftermarket warranty that is going to cover the primary repairs. i would only have to cover from after the water pump is removed and back to the point of putting it back on. so i am kinda scrambling to get everything together before they get it too far to do this.

one other question. if i can get the cam installed. i have read many post stating that i can run it without having it tuned right away. yes i know it will gain very little if nothing. but im talking about a few days maybe a week of back and forth to work while i work with a tuner to get some time. its cold and supposed to snow, so i dont want to be on my motorcycle in the snow but also dont want to destroy my engine.
 

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Should be ok running it without a tune for a short time. No chance of valves hitting piston either,
 
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