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Discussion Starter #1

Spent the past two morning swapping a fresh manifold, injectors, and then all the swap wiring. Did I need two days? No. But sunny cold weather taking my time, and doing a clean install was more important

Poking around doing research, people claim the 5.7 injectors are fine. I just kept the 6.4 ones and installed them with the manifold, and i have to say she actually idles smoother..maybe my high mileage made my original ones a little dirty and rough, but getting her street tuned later this week to adapt to the injectors. All good so far



I was surprised to see the heads this dirty, put new gaskets about 10k miles ago and i don’t remember the runners being that filthy...92K miles builds up i guess. Spent the better part of 2 hours cleaning the runners with some brake cleaner on a rag and a vaccuum, while sealing up the ports with paper towels



Manifold drops in nice and easy, catch can setup is a tad wonky until some new lines comes in. MSD sits nicely I used an existing hole on the fender wall, took a 8-32 rivnut and a button head screw, drilled a few more to match for the relay.






Followed factory harness to keep the look clean, used info all found here on the forum. Did not need the cirkit boss, however if you dont already have an assortment of wire, terminal ends, and butt connectors then i guess their product comes more “complete” but having some at my disposal, the leash electronics relay bus worked great and for only $20 vs $90 for the cirkit boss


All in all, a GREAT mod, instant gains she pulls all the way to redline now instead of falling on its face after 4500 rpm... definitely noticeable torque down low too.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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I still wonder if the SRV can be enabled in the tune and wiring harness to tapped into the PCM? I mean the 5.7 RAMS run SRV don't they...although not sure if they also run the GPEC or NGC4 controllers? I mean that is how the RAMs make the extra ponies at higher RPMs.

Table to enable SRV operation in HP tuners.

984119


PCM wiring

984121

984120
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Spent the past two morning swapping a fresh manifold, injectors, and then all the swap wiring. Did I need two days? No. But sunny cold weather taking my time, and doing a clean install was more important

Poking around doing research, people claim the 5.7 injectors are fine. I just kept the 6.4 ones and installed them with the manifold, and i have to say she actually idles smoother..maybe my high mileage made my original ones a little dirty and rough, but getting her street tuned later this week to adapt to the injectors. All good so far



I was surprised to see the heads this dirty, put new gaskets about 10k miles ago and i don’t remember the runners being that filthy...92K miles builds up i guess. Spent the better part of 2 hours cleaning the runners with some brake cleaner on a rag and a vaccuum, while sealing up the ports with paper towels



Manifold drops in nice and easy, catch can setup is a tad wonky until some new lines comes in. MSD sits nicely I used an existing hole on the fender wall, took a 8-32 rivnut and a button head screw, drilled a few more to match for the relay.






Followed factory harness to keep the look clean, used info all found here on the forum. Did not need the cirkit boss, however if you dont already have an assortment of wire, terminal ends, and butt connectors then i guess their product comes more “complete” but having some at my disposal, the leash electronics relay bus worked great and for only $20 vs $90 for the cirkit boss


All in all, a GREAT mod, instant gains she pulls all the way to redline now instead of falling on its face after 4500 rpm... definitely noticeable torque down low too.
All you need now is the 6.4 cam. :)
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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I’m curious about the statement on power decline past 4.5K. I have noticed a strange uptick in power when mine goes past 3K.

It’s reminiscent of the back barrels in a 4 bbl carb setup kicking in at WOT. I wondered out loud on here about this behavior and got one person that had the same experience. The exception that proves the rule?? (Unlikely, I know, but I always wanted to use that in a regular conversation.)

Now you are saying yours basically does the opposite. My brain is all a’flutter with the possible explanations for this...?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’m curious about the statement on power decline past 4.5K. I have noticed a strange uptick in power when mine goes past 3K.

It’s reminiscent of the back barrels in a 4 bbl carb setup kicking in at WOT. I wondered out loud on here about this behavior and got one person that had the same experience. The exception that proves the rule?? (Unlikely, I know, but I always wanted to use that in a regular conversation.)

Now you are saying yours basically does the opposite. My brain is all a’flutter with the possible explanations for this...
What i was trying to say is, i installed just the manifold on Saturday without hooking up the SRV system. Noticed it still had characteristics of a 5.7 losing its top end. After i wired it in Sunday, noticed a definite change and stronger pull all the way to 5800. The tone of the motor changed a little too
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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What i was trying to say is, i installed just the manifold on Saturday without hooking up the SRV system. Noticed it still had characteristics of a 5.7 losing its top end. After i wired it in Sunday, noticed a definite change and stronger pull all the way to 5800. The tone of the motor changed a little too
No I followed you, I just wonder why I don’t experience the power loss up high like people say. I’m not saying my engine’s power output is any different than the next 5.7L, just that I don’t feel the same reduction in power as it climbs past 4.5K and toward its redline (or auto-upshift point).

I’m thinking it must be due to my third member’s gear ratio (2.65), as that is the only thing that separates me from almost all other 5.7Ls. If I’m not mistaken, the Pursuit Chargers are the only LXs/LCs that can have the 5.7L engine and 2.65 rear-end combo. So maybe that’s why my experience with the upper RPMs feels different from everyone else’s...

Anyway, enough pontificating on off-topic stuff like this, back to the original discussion of the thread!
 

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the 5.7s have this WOT "sag" ~ 3,600 - 4000 rpm (stock) and once beyond 4K they'll pull more up to the 5.2K peak and run out of breath
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Yea more of a cam profile thing
hey, whoa, easy now...I’m all about being a hillbilly from Texas, but I’m nothing if not progressive. In fact, I am what the kids refer to as being “woke”, and as such I am against profiling in all its forms!
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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I want to do this but, I hate wiring and really do not want to splice my harness
I used to avoid all wiring tasks because they always turned out so badly once I was done. Over time I’ve learned the easiest way to ensure success with wiring jobs is to use the proper tools and parts and take the time to do it right.

Ive tried every cheap wiring tool you can think of and done every shortcut imaginable while wiring in the past, and the end result was always compromised in some fashion.

Once I started using quality, correct tools and equipment for the jobs, the end results starting being much better.

Soldering is a big part of this new approach too. I could really mess up a soldering task in the past. Now I do it right and am left with a good result.
 

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I used to avoid all wiring tasks because they always turned out so badly once I was done. Over time I’ve learned the easiest way to ensure success with wiring jobs is to use the proper tools and parts and take the time to do it right.
At my age and my level of patience I find it easier to find someone who knows what they are doing and just pay them a couple hundred to do it.
 

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I take the soldering approach as well along with shrink tubing. Just remember...nothing solders to solder like solder.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Everything i used was wired up with high quality butt connectors. I only had to splice 1 wire and that was the injector. Much easier that i thought i watched a video from Holly about properly splicing wires


 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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At my age and my level of patience I find it easier to find someone who knows what they are doing and just pay them a couple hundred to do it.
ill do it for a hundred bucks and a 12 pack of beer...?
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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I'll have to ship you my car... LOL
no need, I make house calls...but that will require an updated estimate:

  • $100
  • 12 pack of beer
  • 25 minutes seat time test driving the vehicle on which I work once the job is complete.
 
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