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Discussion Starter #42
UPDATE

Never got the street tune, have had her parked for over a month now in fear of washing out my piston rings cause shes running so rich. Did and oil change and i am sub ~1000 miles on this intake/injector setup


Going in tomorrow to a hub dyno to get her tuned, wont have stock numbers to share but i will update on the gains before and after the dyno sesh.
 

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Hi @trippytro , hope all is well!
I'm back working on stalling the 392 intake and reviewed the electric diagram using the Leash relay.
Base on your wiring diagram, I copied and did my one and came across few doubts that you may help clearing:
1- Feeding the main power in the Leash Relay: is it from the main battery post or from the fuse box?? (you mentioned power steering fuse, mine box is different, i need to use the #5).
2- What Amp J-case fuse should use for Leash Relay? 25/30Amp?
3- Base on the Dodge manual, I followed the SRV connector pin locations for this diagram. Could you verify if it makes sense and matches your install?
Feel free to mark any changes on the diagram.
Thank you!

992075

992076
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Hi @trippytro , hope all is well!
I'm back working on stalling the 392 intake and reviewed the electric diagram using the Leash relay.
Base on your wiring diagram, I copied and did my one and came across few doubts that you may help clearing:
1- Feeding the main power in the Leash Relay: is it from the main battery post or from the fuse box?? (you mentioned power steering fuse, mine box is different, i need to use the #5).
2- What Amp J-case fuse should use for Leash Relay? 25/30Amp?
3- Base on the Dodge manual, I followed the SRV connector pin locations for this diagram. Could you verify if it makes sense and matches your install?
Feel free to mark any changes on the diagram.
Thank you!
View attachment 992074
View attachment 992075
View attachment 992076
Hey there

#1: power is fed directly from the battery post. The fuse is wired to the small terminal on my leash so when 12v acc key is on, it lets the battery power pass through. And like wise when the car is off, the terminal stop the power coming in because its key off

#2: Fuse is built in and comes with the leash product

#3: will get back to this one lol
 

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trippytro said
Hey there

#1: power is fed directly from the battery post. The fuse is wired to the small terminal on my leash so when 12v acc key is on, it lets the battery power pass through. And like wise when the car is off, the terminal stop the power coming in because its key off
**OK. I review the diagram. Power is fed direct form battery post to Leash IN post. Also changed the Relay small terminal connection, fed by the 12v acc from car fuse box (fuse #5 in my case).

But now, the SRV connector pin #1 (Fused ASD Relay Output) still connects on the same 12v acc or a different place??


#2: Fuse is built in and comes with the leash product
**By your previous pictures, seems they sent a J-case Blue 20amp fuse on your. Correct?
Leash Electronic didn't supply a J-Case or FMX fuse on mine, just the open connectors spot.


#3: will get back to this one lol
** Cool. Looking forward.
992099

992101

992102
 

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Discussion Starter #46
As far as the connector pinout, looks like the same order i used. Just didn’t color coat it, i used all the same color wire and went off of the MSD diagram color codes
 

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Thanks @trippytro
So, connector pins sequence are correct.
Just not sure about the connector Pin 1. Your previous diagram shows it connecting with the leash small terminal C+ that also connects to 12v acc on fuse box. Is that correct?
sorry my amateur knowledge on wiring... 😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks @trippytro
So, connector pins sequence are correct.
Just not sure about the connector Pin 1. Your previous diagram shows it connecting with the leash small terminal C+ that also connects to 12v acc on fuse box. Is that correct?
sorry my amateur knowledge on wiring...
View attachment 992105
Yes I actually stacked them on the same terminal since there was only 2
 

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Thanks again, @trippytro!! Appreciated the technical support! 👊Good luck with your car and let us know about the dyno and tune.
Posting here the final electric diagram using the affordable Leash Electronics 1HO Relay.
Hope it helps all of you interested on this install and have many doubts as I did.
992112
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks again, @trippytro!! Appreciated the technical support! Good luck with your car and let us know about the dyno and tune.
Posting here the final electric diagram using the affordable Leash Electronics 1HO Relay.
Hope it helps all of you interested on this install and have many doubts as I did.
View attachment 992112
Dyno Day Results!



 

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Spent the past two morning swapping a fresh manifold, injectors, and then all the swap wiring. Did I need two days? No. But sunny cold weather taking my time, and doing a clean install was more important

Poking around doing research, people claim the 5.7 injectors are fine. I just kept the 6.4 ones and installed them with the manifold, and i have to say she actually idles smoother..maybe my high mileage made my original ones a little dirty and rough, but getting her street tuned later this week to adapt to the injectors. All good so far



I was surprised to see the heads this dirty, put new gaskets about 10k miles ago and i don’t remember the runners being that filthy...92K miles builds up i guess. Spent the better part of 2 hours cleaning the runners with some brake cleaner on a rag and a vaccuum, while sealing up the ports with paper towels



Manifold drops in nice and easy, catch can setup is a tad wonky until some new lines comes in. MSD sits nicely I used an existing hole on the fender wall, took a 8-32 rivnut and a button head screw, drilled a few more to match for the relay.






Followed factory harness to keep the look clean, used info all found here on the forum. Did not need the cirkit boss, however if you dont already have an assortment of wire, terminal ends, and butt connectors then i guess their product comes more “complete” but having some at my disposal, the leash electronics relay bus worked great and for only $20 vs $90 for the cirkit boss


All in all, a GREAT mod, instant gains she pulls all the way to redline now instead of falling on its face after 4500 rpm... definitely noticeable torque down low too.
Nice build, what kind of MSD is installed???
 

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Hey, do you remember if you spliced into the injector wire with the green piece or the red piece? I did the one with green and my MSD box isn't reading RPM. Just says 0
 

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So where is the MTV? Is there a second valve that needs to be turned opened?
 
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That blurb mentions the MTV but doesn’t go into much detail or have a picture of it. Does the 392 manifold have a MTV?

I know the 2.7L engines’ manifold used an MTV in addition to the SRV, but it was absent on the 3.5L active manifolds. I never really understood how the MTV was supposed to help TBH.
 

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So where is the MTV? Is there a second valve that needs to be turned opened?
I don’t think the 392 manifold has an MTV, but I don’t know that for certain. I’m hoping someone can confirm or deny that for me.
 

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That blurb mentions the MTV but doesn’t go into much detail or have a picture of it. Does the 392 manifold have a MTV?

I know the 2.7L engines’ manifold used an MTV in addition to the SRV, but it was absent on the 3.5L active manifolds. I never really understood how the MTV was supposed to help TBH.
Based on the power numbers on the graph (230 peak) maybe this is related to the 2.7?
 

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Based on the power numbers on the graph (230 peak) maybe this is related to the 2.7?
Could be. The 2.7L is the only engine I’ve seen it in use on. I believe they dropped its use on 2010 and later 3.5L, and I don’t think they made any 2.7L past 2010, so maybe they had decided it was of limited value on anything larger.
 
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