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2016 Jazz Blue A8 Scat
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Discussion Starter #1
I have read repeatedly that the 6.4 is not a good candidate for forced induction due to the high compression and fragile piston design.

Are the 5.7 or 6.1 any better for boost without getting into the engine and changing pistons?
 

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On a 6.4L, have drop in pistons (and maybe rods) installed. Not crazy expensive.
 

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2014 SRT Core
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As Modern Muscle said they all have their limits, but it does seem that extra precaution has to be taken with the 6.4's, apparently due to piston design. That said if you have a 6.4 and want to supercharge it you can either keep the boost lower or install some forged pistons. I'd recommend talking to someone like Modern Muscle, OST dyno, etc.. before super charging as they certainly have the experience to be able to advise you.
 
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I have my 5.7L supercharged, running at 8lbs boost and only added Kooks long tube headers, colder plugs and a Petty's Garage tune. Got 470 to the wheels. (HP and torque)
 

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2016 Jazz Blue A8 Scat
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Discussion Starter #7

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2017 Challenger RT Coupe
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I have a 2017 RT Coupe - 5.7L - looking for exhaust upgrades and cold air induction upgrades - any suggestions?
 

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That 572 is bad azz!!!!! Diffenetly not a sleeper!!! Lol!!!
 

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The 6.4 has a lower boost limit with the stock pistons but also understand that adding that boost on a 6.4 is
still going to put you at 510-540 at the wheels. So.... yeah.
 

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Dodge Challenger RT
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When you add boost it's all about controlling heat. Many different car owners with turbos and blowers have learned a lot of ways to control heat over the years. I don't see many of these discussed on the hemi forums but the fight for reliability is heat!!!!

- That's why you run colder plugs; it helps get heat away from the head.
- That's why you run an intercooler; even with that there are ways to improve the intercooler. I'm adding an inline ice tank to the whipple to help assure IATs are as low as possible while in the staging lanes. Others have been using the killer chiller and some air/air (centrifugal guys) use C02 sprayed into the Air/Air heat exchanger to help cool things further.
- Intakes: some guys purchase or even build intakes that go down into the fenderwell just to suck in cooler air vs, heated engine bay heat.
- 180 and 160* tstats help keep engine bays cooler and even help keep the water from air/water intercoolers from heating as much.
- water/meth: Meth injection is to cool intake charges and raise octane. Guys who like to control heat and prevent knock love meth injection due to the fact that it specifically does both and in a very noticeable fashion.
- Mods - more airflow not only means more power from flowing more air, it also keeps things cooler. Cams with extended duration and/or lift, headers and headwork all helps move air and this helps you make more power with less risk than a stock engine.

Everything has a limit but you can definitely be safer and maximize your setup if you scan your car for knock and run as cool as possible. That's why just stating that X# psi is safe, is not always accurate. If you qualify the statement, as Modern Muscle has, by stating "all stock hemis" it's much better. That said, I see a lot of people take that number and repeat it to others without understanding the degree of modifications made on a vehicle.
 
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No doubt about it! Lowering those IAT's is an always on-going battle and getting excess heat out of the engine
is the other battle and that's across all brands. Look at the lengths the OEM's have to go to, to cool the vehicles
that make big numbers. The Bugatti Veyron for example has 3 engine radiators and 3 water to air intercoolers
for the turbo systems.

I think I need to do a fender pull setup. I reused my short legmaker on my supercharger and my IAT's can get
pretty hot when it's hot out. I'm thinking a fender pull with some 24K foil would be a good start! In fact I think
you just reinforced my next mod! :)


When you add boost it's all about controlling heat. Many different car owners with turbos and blowers have learned a lot of ways to control heat over the years. I don't see many of these discussed on the hemi forums but the fight for reliability is heat!!!!

- That's why you run colder plugs; it helps get heat away from the head.
- That's why you run an intercooler; even with that there are ways to improve the intercooler. I'm adding an inline ice tank to the whipple to help assure IATs are as low as possible while in the staging lanes. Others have been using the killer chiller and some air/air (centrifugal guys) use C02 sprayed into the Air/Air heat exchanger to help cool things further.
- Intakes: some guys purchase or even build intakes that go down into the fenderwell just to suck in cooler air vs, heated engine bay heat.
- 180 and 160* tstats help keep engine bays cooler and even help keep the water from air/water intercoolers from heating as much.
- water/meth: Meth injection is to cool intake charges and raise octane. Guys who like to control heat and prevent knock love meth injection due to the fact that it specifically does both and in a very noticeable fashion.
- Mods - more airflow not only means more power from flowing more air, it also keeps things cooler. Cams with extended duration and/or lift, headers and headwork all helps move air and this helps you make more power with less risk than a stock engine.

Everything has a limit but you can definitely be safer and maximize your setup if you scan your car for knock and run as cool as possible. That's why just stating that X# psi is safe, is not always accurate. If you qualify the statement, as Modern Muscle has, by stating "all stock hemis" it's much better. That said, I see a lot of people take that number and repeat it to others without understanding the degree of modifications made on a vehicle.
 

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Or you can just drive the car in cold weather. Temps here were around 36F and man is the car a beast (I installed the SC at the beginning of summer). Too bad tire traction drops with outside temp.
 

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Or you can just drive the car in cold weather. Temps here were around 36F and man is the car a beast (I installed the SC at the beginning of summer). Too bad tire traction drops with outside temp.
Beast is an understatement she's down right nasty! :) My bi turbo car has also realized the benefit of that dense
cold air! :)
 

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I threw a couple gallons of distilled water in the freezer for 4 hours this evening. Then I packed it in a cooler of ice for tomorrow. Prior to my passes, I'm going to siphon coolant out of my intercooler reservoir and replace it with my cold ice water.

On Monday my new ice tank arrives so it will be easier. I have a pesky Scat in my area that has a personal best of 11.38 and he called me out so I have to take him on tomorrow. No holds barred, I've made a few adjustments.
 

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I threw a couple gallons of distilled water in the freezer for 4 hours this evening. Then I packed it in a cooler of ice for tomorrow. Prior to my passes, I'm going to siphon coolant out of my intercooler reservoir and replace it with my cold ice water.

On Monday my new ice tank arrives so it will be easier. I have a pesky Scat in my area that has a personal best of 11.38 and he called me out so I have to take him on tomorrow. No holds barred, I've made a few adjustments.
Can you give details on your ice tank? who made it? Where's it going to mount?

My plans are to replace my IC pump because I don't think the Bosch is cutting it and I want to put a much larger
reservoir in, just not sure what to use or where to mount it, but I'd like it to hold at least half a gallon of fluid.

I think those two changes along with the LMI true cold air, wrapped in gold foil should help keep my IAT's much
lower without going crazy and doing a KC setup.
 

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Can you give details on your ice tank? who made it? Where's it going to mount?

My plans are to replace my IC pump because I don't think the Bosch is cutting it and I want to put a much larger
reservoir in, just not sure what to use or where to mount it, but I'd like it to hold at least half a gallon of fluid.

I think those two changes along with the LMI true cold air, wrapped in gold foil should help keep my IAT's much
lower without going crazy and doing a KC setup.
Tracking shows that it should arrive on Monday so I"ll get you all the info and pics. I plan on mounting it in the trunk since real estate in the engine bay is so limited.
 

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Tracking shows that it should arrive on Monday so I"ll get you all the info and pics. I plan on mounting it in the trunk since real estate in the engine bay is so limited.
Cool, can't wait to see it! I need to make something work under the hood. I am probably going to have to have
a custom aluminum tank fabbed.
 
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