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What's up follow Challenger lovers,




I wanted to share with the community my experience in installing the COMP CAM VVT 270 cam. First off this is certainly not a mod for a novice. Secondly I'm not a profession mechanic, so following any of the steps listed here is done so at your own risk. You and you alone are responsible for any mods you do to your vehicle. If you don't feel confident in doing a mod like this, or don't have the proper tools, you should have a trained mechanic perform any install for you.




There are several references on the web, and the forums to assist with performing a cam install on a GEN III Hemi yourself. I would consider the difficulty in doing this sort of work a 5 wrench level. I performed this work in my spare time after my kids and wife were in bed so the amount of time it took me is most likely skewed. All said in done, I have about 30 hours into the install. This time includes tear down, trips around town for various parts, including my dealership/stealership, and local parts stores. If everything works out the way I need it to, I'll be finishing up the install tonight and heading down to Richmond VA, for the MSHS event tomorrow.






- One of the first things I did was watch several youtube video's on installing a cam in the Gen III Hemi. What I noticed was that there was nothing specific to my 13 Challenger R/T. So I've decided I'll post up what I did here.
- The next step I took was I downloaded the Edelbrok Eforce installation manual. This manual contains everything needed to disassemble the 08-14 Challengers (I'm certain most if not all of the steps apply to 15 and above as well.
- Next I jacked my car in the air using the guides mentioned on this site. There are several ways to do this, use which method works best for you. I supported my car at 4 corners using 3 ton rated Jack stands.
- Next I removed the tires, and disconnected the battery.
- Next I followed the instructions listed in the Edelbrok manual found here E-Force Supercharger Systems - Chrysler HEMI® - Edelbrock, LLC. If I'm not mistaken I followed along down to step 28-30.
- By the time you finish with the steps listed in the manual, you should have drained the coolant from the radiator, and engine block
- Next start the steps to remove the radiator, and A/C condenser, be care to secure the A/C condenser out of the way. I used welding wire, but anything you have on hand will work.
- Once you've gotten the radiator out of the vehicle, you now have a clear view of the front of your motor. (This is when you start thinking OH SH!T what am I doing right now). After my initial fear I pressed forward, taking pictures of the orientation of my engine accessories, and how everything looked in it's stock configuration.
- For my installation I was installed heads that I had machined, and cleaned up for this specific reason. They are a factory 2.05/1.55 setup with PSI 1515 springs. I intend to have my original heads setup later on with 2.10/1.65 combination, time simply didn't allow for that to happen this go around.
- Next step in this process is to remove all of the factory wiring from all sensors and accessories, as well as injectors and coil packs. (once you've done this correctly you can lay the one side over the driver's & passenger side fenders. Be careful not to scratch your paint. (This step may not be needed if you are not swapping heads)
- If you aren't swapping heads you must remove the valve covers, and disconnect the valve train (I took pictures of the push rod orientation, and the valve train as well.)
- Next remove the push rods so that you can push the lifters up in the valley in order to get the cam out (if you are not upgrading the push rods (I DID) make sure you keep you identified as they need to go back into the same location you removed them from)
- For this next step, I've read and heard of folks getting away with not removing all of the oil pan bolts, but that didn't work for me. I've also heard of folks not draining their oil, however again that didn't work for me either, so the next step is to drain the oil.
- Next is to remove all of the 10 mm bolts holding the oil pan up, and the 6 15mm bolts as well, this will allow you to drop the oil pan enough to get the 13mm screw out of the oil pump pickup.
- Next you should disconnect the oil pump pickup (13 mm)
- Next there are 4 10mm bolts holding the oil pump on the crank, remove them and set the oil pump aside (if you have a low mileage pump reuse it, if not consider replacement at this time)
- Next is the Time Chain removal, This one is tricky first you need to back the tensioner off, using some sort of object to hold it back.
- Then you need to remove the guide plate (there are 4 total 10 mm bolts holding these items on)
- I replaced my timing chain on my install but you can simply reuse your old one if your car has low mileage ( you need to determine this for yourself, My car has 80k miles on it, and the chain looked great, I just did the replacement due to already being in to the motor this far)
- Now you can take the front cover off the motor, along with the H2O pump. (I removed everything as a unit, however do don't have to do it this way if you don't want too.
- Next you need to remove the balancer, I used a 3 jaw puller here that I picked up from Advanced Auto for $30. The crank bolt is a 21mm bolt. Use an Impact gun to accomplish this.
- Next you need to remove the Cam Bolt, this is a 19mm bolt, use an impact to accomplish this as well
At this point you are into the pay faze and have spent at least 10-15hrs working on your ride if you had to do it like me, which is after hours when the kids and wife are sleeping, stay the coarse the hard work and sleepless night are about to pay off
- Next you need to remove the 4 T25 screws that hold the thrust plate in place. These were deceiving to me, because I'm used to working on the LA/MAGNUM platform engines of yester year from Chrysler.
- At this point you are now ready to reinstall the cam gear and use it to remove the stock cam.......When doing this take your time, first spin the cam clockwise and counter clockwise about 10 times each way. This process will push your lifters into the bores to free up the cam for deinstallation
- For my case, I had to remove the heads as well, to do this you will need a 15mm socket, and a 10mm socket, There are 10 bolts and 5 bolts on both heads, you will need a breaker bar to loosen the head bolts
- IF YOU are removing the heads, I strongly recommend removing the lifters as well. I have a 6M car so I didn't need to do a MDS delete, If you have an Auto, you will need to perform this process and remove the MDS solenoids as well, which will require you to remove the heads no matter what.
- If you have an auto car you will also need to purchase SRT-8 non MDS lifters and lifter cups as well (again I have a 6M so this wasn't the case for me)
- NOW carefully pull the cam out, ensuring you do not nick or ding the barring's during the process
- Once you've removed the cam, set it aside, and disconnect the cam gear
- Install the Cam gear onto your new cam (Comp, or whatever brand you choose)
- Apply a generous amount of engine assembly lube when you go to insert the new cam into it soon to be new home. This is perhaps the most important step, you do not want to have your new Cam run dry.
- If you have an 08 and below Hemi, you do not need to perform the next step, for all VVT enabled motors this is vital to proper operation of the cam, and piston to valve clearance
- Disconnect the cam gear and follow the steps to insert the cam lock out/limiter process. Watch the following video for reference
- Once you completed the fazer lock out procedure, reinstall the thrust plate using Blue thread locker, per the manufacture recommendations ( I used red on my application) The factory torque spec for this is 25 ib/ft
- At this point you can reassemble. For me I replaced the timing chain, timing chain tensioner, and timing chain guide, because I was there and I wanted the reassurance in knowing my new cam had a new chain to keep everything in time.
- Follow the timing gear installation procedures when reinstalling the timing chain, the dot on the fazer needs to be at the 12 o clock position. Insert the two chain links on the gear that is at the 12 o'clock. If this is done correctly the single dot will be at the bottom, and the keyway on the fazer will point towards the number 1 cylinder.
- Rotate the engine to TDC on the Number 1 Cylinder. Now the engine should be in time. (Tip use the crank bolt without the pulley installed for this)
- From here you are clear to completely reassemble, however I opted to clean the carbon on my pistons. There was no was I was going to put my engine back together the way those guys looked (in hind site they weren't too bad considering the 5 nitrous runs I put on them)
If you are going to perform this process use WD-40, it is a great product and works well. I also used a stainless steel brush to help with this as well.


Hopefully this mini-guide helps for anyone who is adventurous as I am, when it comes to hot rodding. Again I take no responsibility for anything that could go wrong if you decide to do this process. I'd like to add that while I had my heads off, I installed some SRT8 factory headers on my 5.7, and the Mid Pipes. I had to do some modifications to the mid pipes due to no previsions for my precat O2's.




I'm in the process of finishing up this install, Once I'm done and get back from racing this weekend, I intend to upload all of the pictures I took along the way. For those who decided to take the plunge and do this work on your own, Not going to lie, it was a lot, but I couldn't justify the $4500 quote I got for installing a cam. That was crazy to me. For that amount of money I'd buy a stroker kit........ Now there's an idea>:)
 

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Great write up. I just did the same job on my car and you are right, its a labor intensive job. Your car will run much stronger with the cam and headers. It's a nice jump in power over stock and you will notice it right away.

Love to hear about how racing went, I know that my car picked up just under 40 HP but I dont know what that equates to in a 1/4 mile.

Have fun with it!
 

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I've done two 5.7 cam swaps - not pulling heads.

I timed the 2nd job and ran about 22 hours from initial disassembly to putting everything back together and road test.

The pickup tube / bolt install is tricky and can be done w/o dropping the oil pan - its a technique that takes a lot of patience. Once you "get" the hang of it, it comes along.

the most time consuming is the change out of the valve springs - using compressed air to hold the valves shut
 

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Nice write up! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for all of the great comments. I'm still not racing yet, but I got lucky and got in touch with Jay Greene, He's writing me a tune now, and gave me some advice as to how to fix my valve train noise. Once I get this done, I'll take it down south and see if I still can run. If not I'll be running tomorrow.
 

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Thanks guys for all of the great comments. I'm still not racing yet, but I got lucky and got in touch with Jay Greene, He's writing me a tune now, and gave me some advice as to how to fix my valve train noise. Once I get this done, I'll take it down south and see if I still can run. If not I'll be running tomorrow.
what's the valve train noise you're experiencing?

the higher rate valve springs will have a more 'mechanical' sound are louder than what the stock 5.7 springs are like.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes it is a more mechanical sound, but I think I also have a slight exhaust leak, due to one header bolt not fully seating on the passenger side. I'm going to fix it this week, and hopefully the tick I have will dissipate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The write up in this thread involved taking this Cam shaft from Comp, and getting it into my 13 Challenger R/T (5.7l Hemi)
 

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For some reason I'm having difficulty loading pictures here. I'm going to try to upload more
 

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Sounds like it makes sense to do a cam and LT header install at the same time... Can't wait to hear how it runs and sounds now!
Think this is my next project.
 

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I've done two 5.7 cam swaps - not pulling heads.

I timed the 2nd job and ran about 22 hours from initial disassembly to putting everything back together and road test.

The pickup tube / bolt install is tricky and can be done w/o dropping the oil pan - its a technique that takes a lot of patience. Once you "get" the hang of it, it comes along.

the most time consuming is the change out of the valve springs - using compressed air to hold the valves shut
I have never used the air hold. I had one but instead of the air hold, I pulled the spark plug and slid nylon rope into they cylinder, then rotated the crank to put a physical barrier in place. A common mod on the 3.8l V6 engines were to go with higher ratio rockers and you upgraded the springs. A bunch of my buddies came to my house to get theirs done and this was a fast way for me to do it so I could use my air compressor to pull the lifters and tighten the spring compressor faster. Just throwing out the idea.
 

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Sounds like it makes sense to do a cam and LT header install at the same time... Can't wait to hear how it runs and sounds now!
Think this is my next project.
It definitely does. If you are auto, you want to swap out those MDS lifters anyway and it's nice being able to torque down those header bolts easily while out of the car. Also, when out of the car, you can swap springs using a much cheaper spring compressor. I used the type that looks like a big C-clamp, that presses on the bottom of the valve as it compresses the spring.

Great job documenting and sharing your experience OP. This is what makes the community better. Best of luck at the track with that setup. Are you going to to gears or converter? I'm thinking that a nice FTI 3000 stall would get that monster off the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is really old now, and I didn't notice that you responded Pector55. For my gears, I went to a 4.29 setup. Now I have a new transmission as I destroyed the old one. I also have a new Mcloed RXT tripple disc clutch setup. The car runs like a scolded dog now. No times worth mentioning due to racing with broken synchro's in the transmission towards the end of the year. I'm hoping to get out to MIR in March for Test and Tune. I'll post back in this thread or my other Gear swap thread the times now that everything is freshen up.
 

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- Next is to remove all of the 10 mm bolts holding the oil pan up, and the 6 15mm bolts as well, this will allow you to drop the oil pan enough to get the 13mm screw out of the oil pump pickup.
- Next you should disconnect the oil pump pickup (13 mm)
- Next there are 4 10mm bolts holding the oil pump on the crank, remove them and set the oil pump aside (if you have a low mileage pump reuse it, if not consider replacement at this time)
- Next is the Time Chain removal, This one is tricky first you need to back the tensioner off, using some sort of object to hold it back.
DakBuilder thanks for the write-up! I am planning a swap soon, but I have a question. Is it necessary to mess with the oil pump and pick-up tube? I just read this article and they kept the oil pump on. You think this is possible considering you recently performed a swap?

Hemi Horsepower Helper: 100 Horsepower Cam Swap - Power & Performance News
 

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DakBuilder thanks for the write-up! I am planning a swap soon, but I have a question. Is it necessary to mess with the oil pump and pick-up tube? I just read this article and they kept the oil pump on. You think this is possible considering you recently performed a swap?

Hemi Horsepower Helper: 100 Horsepower Cam Swap - Power & Performance News
On a 6.1 SRT engine or pre '09 5.7 - you may be able to get away with that - the chain guides and that steel plate indicate the earlier style engines.

On the '09+ 5.7 or any 392, they have VVT and the chain is longer due to cam phasing and the tensioner setup. You take tension off chain, and it will drop away from crank sprocket.

The pump covers up the bottom crank sprocket which has the timing mark that must be a 6 o'clock position. The crank keyway is approx at 2 o'clock position when timing marks are lined up.
Its imperative to rotate the engine to double check timing marks stay lined up - assembly marks on chain are for initial install - they won't line up except after 100s of revolutions...so you have to eye the cam sprocket and crank sprocket marks...plus rotate to insure no interference.


So you have to unbolt the pump...and you don't need to drop the pan to access the pickup tube bolt to remove it for pump removal.
 
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On a 6.1 SRT engine or pre '09 5.7 - you may be able to get away with that - the chain guides and that steel plate indicate the earlier style engines.

On the '09+ 5.7 or any 392, they have VVT and the chain is longer due to cam phasing and the tensioner setup. You take tension off chain, and it will drop away from crank sprocket.

The pump covers up the bottom crank sprocket which has the timing mark that must be a 6 o'clock position. The crank keyway is approx at 2 o'clock position when timing marks are lined up.
Its imperative to rotate the engine to double check timing marks stay lined up - assembly marks on chain are for initial install - they won't line up except after 100s of revolutions...so you have to eye the cam sprocket and crank sprocket marks...plus rotate to insure no interference.


So you have to unbolt the pump...and you don't need to drop the pan to access the pickup tube bolt to remove it for pump removal.
Thanks again Hal, I had a suspicion about the VVT.
 

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Agreed with Hal, I tried for hours to get the pump off without lowering the oil pan. After numerous times dropping bolts into the pan, and not being able to get the pump off, I simply broke down and dropped the pan. IMO it's faster and easier to just plan on doing this step, which is why I included it in the write up. I haven't done a cam swap on a Pre-Eagle headed motor, so I can't say for sure if the VVT is the cause for needing to drop the pan. But I can say there was no way I was going to be able to get my pump off without lowering the pan. I'll be swapping the cam on two of my Pre-eagle 5.7's this summer. I'll be able to update the thread at that point in time.
 
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Great write up. Thanks for all the info!
 

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^^^ You're welcome. I'm just trying to do my part for the community. I've gotten a lot of help from members on this forum. It's only right that I pay it forward. Hope this info helps you in some way.
 
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I was able to get the pump off and on without dropping the pan but it sure isn't easy. I was a tech for 13 years and have good manual dexterity, the oil pump pickup bolt was about as tough as it gets to remove and install. The trick that worked was to wrap some tie wire around the bolt so when it was secured when I dropped it. I had a pair of vice grips holding the wire, this trick saved the day and a few dozen curse words. Remove the four bolts from the pump, twist it a bit and then you have a little more room to work with.

The thread is here if interested.. http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f175/cammed-5-7-r-t-591522/
 
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